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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3509 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 10:07 PM
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I polled my climbing chums about the length of the rope, and using it at all. Seems we all learned the same techniques.
Using the rope, shortened, without pro, while ascending a snow slope allows the others on the rope to protect members of the team. The short length prevents momentum for building, especially when not going straight up.
As an example, (from another climb) I had a climber slip as the bucket step collapse. The two above that individual dropped into self arrest, keeping the bottom climber's minor slip from turning into a fall. Typically, the strongest and most able of the rope team is on the top/front, and the least confident/able is at the back/bottom.
On the face, we had to weigh the terrain vs. crevasses. No decision is perfect. But, as I stated, we did goof on the snow bridge on the larger of the two known slots. |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2012 : 08:09 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
Guided groups do it all the time. As an example, when traversing the ramp on Mt. Athabasca, pretty much everyone is tight together. It means there is little availability for one climber to exert a strong force on the group.
And yes, there are "some mountain schools" that teach this travel technique all the time. Little known amateurish schools like Yam and novice guides like Barry Blanchard, Grant Meekins and James Blench. I learned it from them many years ago.
Fair enough. Sounds like classic short-roping, just on the kind of terrain I personally wouldn't bother short-roping, relying more on each individuals skill. But each to their own, if it works for you, go for it.
I guess I would only be concerned that beginning climbers understand the pros and cons of short-roping. It really requires a fairly experienced team to be safe, otherwise, instead of putting one person in danger many are put in danger.
I don't want to derail this thread, but Skibum101, it's soooo obvious that its funny.
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the mountain parks, Alberta
Canada
102 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2012 : 1:02 PM
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| I find your posts towards me quite strange and quite frankly your welcome has been uncalled for. Is there a report button, or an ignore feature? On another site I use you can block posts from people. I ask that you stop with your nonsense and move on. Thanks. |
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The Official Mt. Columbia TR-updated pics
