| Author |
Topic |
|
80 Posts |
Posted - 06/22/2012 : 10:45 PM
|
Spent 2 months traveling in India and Nepal, with a goal to climb one of the iconic peaks in Everest region.
After taking a basic mountaineering course through ACC and took advantage of some free instructional programs from BCMC in 2009, and countless exploit of SWBC mountains. That's when I started the idea of climbing high mountains. So, when my friend invited me to hike Annapurna, I could not refused.
India is a land of extremes.
I started my journey in Delhi; chaotic, pollution, and poverty.
From my journal: Life In Delhi
I went to airport only to find out I didn’t have a seat available for me, or was it I’m not on the list? There was problem to the agency who booked my flight so it was a bit of struggle to get into the plane, in the end, the lady found a reference number to put me through. However, it didn’t save me to missed my flight to Denver but lucky enough to be redirected to Chicago , backtracked with 8 hours layover in Washington, continue to Qatar, then finally to Delhi. Got into Delhi at 2am on Sunday morning, it was very long and tiring flight. Hey, that was the cheapest flight I got.
The pilot informed us before landing that Delhi was a balmy 31 degrees and typically "hazy". That didn't sound too bad. What he didn't tell us was that "hazy" actually means lung-searing and eye-scorching pollution. Seriously, from the time I exited the airport into the New Delhi night it was an assault on my respiratory system.
All the people I met back home who have done India told me to be prepared for smells, smells and more smells. I wasn’t aware what kind of smell. Curry? Incense? That's what they want you to believe. Diesel fumes, burning trash and wood, sewage, urine, animal dung, and who knows what else is what hit me wave after wave on the rickshaw ride to the travel agency. Still, I wasn't (nor am I) complaining. It is what it is. Absolutely an insane drive; from dodging cows, buses, broken down horse drawn contraptions and even little children
The preparation of this trip was poorly executed, the lack of research about India, having no guidebook and specific itinerary. The day before I left Canada I made a quick research about the two places I wanted to visit. Jaipur and Varanasi. Why Jaipur? There was an episode in Amazing race where the contestants had a pit stop in Amber Palace, since then it peaked my interest. I’ve been curiously fascinated about Varanasi after my boss sent me a video of Sadhus eating dead bodies in Ganges.
Needless to say I was pretty nervous and excited when I got off the plane. Here I was alone in a city of 14 million people and didn't have a clue which end was up.
At Delhi airport I met Evelyn’s group from Ireland. I was gratefully pleased to tag along with them. The first day in India was quite an experience; from having difficulty finding a hotel, being followed by some pesky locals, an overwhelming Indian culture, and sweating like a pig because I was sleeping with my -15 sleeping bag.
   
Took a bus to Agra; mosque, temples, mosque, temples, god/goddesses, poverty, and more temples.
From my journal: Which way to Taj Mahal?
With Evelyn’s organizational skills we managed to book our trip off the same day we arrived. I paid less for my trip because the guy thought I was a Nepali and had no money(the lather was true). I went along with the group itinerary; from Delhi to Jaipur. To be honest, I had no idea that Taj Mahal was situated in Agra, it wasn’t even in my plan to visit Taj Mahal when I landed in India. I was like a little girl shrieking inside filled with excitement when I found out about it.
We got to see what it’s like New Delhi at night, even at night the area is littered with people. It's nothing like I imagined. It's a beautiful place but also a very disturbing place. So much poverty and sadness. It's more than overwhelming.
There’s a special set price for a foreigners when it comes to site-seeing , or I think on everything. For instance, the locals pay Rs. 10 to get inside Taj Mahal whereas foreigners have to pay Rs. 750. I took advantage of my looks in most cases, I would threw few Hindi/Punjabi words and managed to get away with the tourist fees.
We visited numerous temples and mosques. At one mosque we got tricked to follow locals, showed us how echoes bounce back in a half-domed roof. It feels like there was a bomb has been thrown in once we found out that we had to pay, everyone seemed backing off in different directions. They were pretty demanding and pushy to get money out from us so we got chased. We did not pay, other than that, nothing really serious happened. I had a good laugh.
Evelyn had to skip Red Port to seek medical attention due a rashes spreading up her arms, Michelle accompanied her.
We got a chance to feed monkeys on the way to Jaipur, It was already dark when we arrived to our hotel.
               
Continued to Jaipur and Rajastan; beautiful palaces, colours, beautiful people, rich in culture.
From my journal: The King wears Pink
I checked my journal to find out if I took some notes. Apparently, there was no entry from New Delhi to Jaipur(approximately 4 days of traveling). Taking notes is not something I’m proud of when traveling, it feels like nerd scribbling in front of everyone. Besides, I was pretty much preoccupied with the scenery and what’s going around me.
We continued to travel to Eastern Rajastan also known as the Pink City. Arrived in Jaipur at night, picked up a beer, then hang out at the lobby of our hotel for awhile, where we met Dan from Seattle, he’s a doctor. Moved up to the rooftop and had dinner. There was a Rajastani puppet show which the puppeteer from Nepal. Dan continued to drink until he was totally wasted.
Our hotel has a great architectural design, very fascinating and colourful.
The next morning , our first pit stop was in Hawa Mahal . The buildings is coloured washed pink, as I remember from what Ranber told us, pink symbolizes hospitality. The ancient heart of the Pink City still beats in its fairytale palaces, rugged fortresses perched on barren hills and broad avenues that dot the entire city. There is a timeless appeal to Jaipur's colourful bazaars selling trinkets and handlooms.
Amber Palace is almost the same as Red Fort. It was getting boring after awhile, having the same landscapes and scenery. Once you’re inside the palace, you have to find your way out into these maze-like series of rooms and passages.
My first elephant ride happened in Jaipur. There was only one elephant available to accommodate all five of us so we took turns to ride. To all my excitement, I gave my camera to a complete stranger and asked him to take pictures. The guy fired a dozen set of photos following us on a 700m ride, which I tipped him 100 rupees. What disturbed me riding an elephant was the Mahout hit the poor creature with a metal that looked like a fireplace poker. I had to close my eyes pretending it wasn’t happening but I couldn’t get away with the sound when the metal strikes the animal. It was the most horrible sound you could ever hear.
We stopped by at the textile shop on our way to our hotel. I left the store with some cushion covers, fitted Indian shirts, and Alibaba pants which I think it was ridiculously over-priced.
I had to pick up a map of India(something like a road Atlas) at the local store because I did not have a guidebook and did not know how to get around. I was totally dependent with Evelyn’s group during the 4 day of traveling. They'll be heading out to Jaisalmer, while on the other hand, I’ll be traveling East of India to Varanasi.
              
Then, a train ride of a lifetime to Varanasi. Amazing place, Gangas, poverty, burning corps, and medieval buildings.
From my journal: Lost in Varanasi
Life List #11- Swimming in Ganges River. Why Varanasi again? I’ll give you a reference why Varanasi fascinates me. I’m not sure if it was in 1987 issue of National Geographic, where there was an article about Sacred Ganges River. A picture of a thousand pilgrimage flock to the river bank drew my attention; the sunset, and the devotees. So, I started to ponder about, “what would it be like in that kind of atmosphere?” I need to experience it!
Evelyn’s group departed at 9:00am, while I had 5 more hours for my train ride to Varanasi. The hotel manager had let me stay for a couple hours without any extra charge. Since, the train station wasn’t that far from my hotel, walking was my best option to avoid getting ripped off by a rickshaw. This is common in India if you’re a tourist. So, I ventured around to familiarize my route. It was blistering hot outside and the locals would follow me with their curious looks in their eyes. The street was too sketchy to walk around alone. I abandoned my plan and I went back to the hotel and ate lunch instead. Ranber, our driver, told me he would set up a cab to drop me off to the train station. I thought it was a nice gesture. However, when I was in cab he phoned to remind me not to forget to tip off the driver. Bummmer!
Caught the train from Jaipur station. I was an hour early. Caught lots and lots of stares. I guess my two oversized backpacks sandwiched my tiny body drew attention. I tried to hand out like I caught a train there every Friday but I think it was painfully obvious that I felt out of place. I stood for awhile trying to watch everyone, looking if there was any other tourist. Unfortunately, I was the only one there. To make the situation worse, only few people know how to speak English. From what I’ve watched in the tv, once the train comes in everyone has to chase the train to be able to get in. I had a silly thought of pushing everyone off away from the door. I started questioning myself, how am I gonna run if I have all these bags with me?
The surrounding was quite overwhelming, but still I had some nice conversations with a number of people once we all realized we weren't going to bite on another. A group of teenagers tried to make a conversation with me. Once again, I played as a Nepali tourist where I threw some Hindi-Punjabi words together. I would sing a Hindi song just to impress them. The conversation became more longer and questions they would ask became more complex to understand. Oh boy! Why did I put myself in trouble. I tried to break it off by telling them I need to buy food. But they would follow me.
The train ride went well. I paid an AC sleeper car which contrary to media images of overcrowded suburban trains with people sitting on the roof. I often get spook by a tea seller's welcome cry of 'Chai, chai, garam chai' coming down the aisle.
Varanasi was absolutely crazy. I got there the week of North India's biggest festival: Diwali. It's like our Christmas, New Year's, Hanukkah and everything else all rolled into one. The streets were packed with people. The noise, the chaos, the confusion! Finally got a taste of what everyone was talking about.
I cry a lot about it but I would be worried about myself if I didn't. I'll try and describe it to you all but I don't think words or pictures can really convey what's going on in Varanasi.
6 days in India and all is going well . I had a good about of culture shock at the end of first week. It all just kind of hit me at once: the incessant honking, the beggars, the dogs fighting in the streets, the dirt and the grime and the nastiness of it all. "Holy Crap!" I thought. "I'm in India and what have I done? Arrrgggghhhh!"
I spent a few nervous hours in my moldy little room huddled in the fetal position clicking my heels together to no avail. I was still there when I opened my eyes. Outside there was still the noise and the smells and the poverty and the confusion . I got up, splashed some water on my face and decided to head out for breakfast. There wouldn't be much to tell if I spent few weeks in a damp yellow room.
After a stroll around the Ganges I got completely lost trying to find my hotel which was right on the Ganges river. Spent about an hour just wandering around trying to head south-east.
I met Chagai, which later we traveled together in Nepal for more than a month.
                            
I truly enjoyed my stay in India. India has an amazingly diverse landscape inhabited by an equally diverse population, full of fragrant dishes, natural beauty, and historical treasures. It was exciting and culturally rich place to visit.
Finally, another train ride to cross Nepal; very rough and chaotic.
----
to be continued..
  |
|
Vancouver, BC
Canada
2659 Posts |
Posted - 06/22/2012 : 11:23 PM
|
Good writing Dean.
Your experience sounds pretty consistent with what a lot of other people have told me about traveling in India (other than trying to BS people into thinking you're a local. That's one I haven't heard before)  |
|
|
Burnaby, BC
Canada
459 Posts |
Posted - 06/22/2012 : 11:26 PM
|
Scary place ...
This is the same place where Spanish climbers died after serac collapsed few years ago. 6 of them? |
|
|
831 Posts |
Posted - 06/22/2012 : 11:50 PM
|
Curious how long you managed to keep the diarrhea away...
This is a fascinating account, I'm looking forward to the continuation.
|
|
|
Vancouver, BC
Canada
602 Posts |
|
Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2012 : 12:59 PM
|
Well written Dean. Can't wait for the next installment.
quote:
Originally posted by DeanP
My first elephant ride happened in Jaipur. There was only one elephant available to accommodate all five of us so we took turns to ride. To all my excitement, I gave my camera to a complete stranger and asked him to take pictures. The guy fired a dozen set of photos following us on a 700m ride, which I tipped him 100 rupees. What disturbed me riding an elephant was the Mahout hit the poor creature with a metal that looked like a fireplace poker. I had to close my eyes pretending it wasn’t happening but I couldn’t get away with the sound when the metal strikes the animal. It was the most horrible sound you could ever hear.
Yeah, that sound is horrendous. Had a similar experience in Thailand. We booked in for a ride on the back of an elephant like a typical ignorant tourist. I assumed it would be like a horseback ride. The elephant would stop every 3 feet to protest and you'd hear the "twack" as it was hit hard on the inside of its rear legs with one of these, an Ankus.
When we got back to the starting spot I asked the lady who spoke english how long has this elephant been doing these rides and she said 40 years. It made me sick.
Once back home I researched how I could interact with these animals if I ever visit SE asia again. I found this. I'd recommend anyone heading that way to look into doing this instead of taking an elephant ride. It actually seems like a much better experience in my opinion.
Bathe an elephant: http://www.elephantnaturefoundation.org/go/visit |
|
|
ALBANY, OR
USA
588 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2012 : 1:14 PM
|
| Thanks for the frank and brutally honest comments Dean. Reaching outside one's comfort zone can certainly be terrifying but it also can be extremely rewarding. Just think how much more comfortable and fun it will be when you travel to another place like India. Looking forward to your continued trip report. |
|
|
|
Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
13028 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2012 : 1:34 PM
|
| You have a great style of story telling and an equally strong spirit of adventure. Very interesting post; I look forward to the next chapter, Dean |
|
|
North Vancouver, BC
Canada
330 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2012 : 2:00 PM
|
| Definitely much more than just a climb. |
|
|
Edmonton, Alberta
Canada
110 Posts |
Posted - 06/23/2012 : 4:59 PM
|
| Wonderful stuff, great photos, thanks!! |
|
|
|
Utah's canyon trekking,deck chair packing desert explorer who dreams of visiting Canada someday
3988 Posts |
Posted - 06/26/2012 : 11:20 AM
|
Amazing!!!  I like how you didn't resarch too much about where you are going. I am the same way. I make no reservations, when I travelled alone. I had no internet back in the day and today, if I travel to a place I don't want to google every image and read every blog or comment on the place. I want to be totally open and I want the "unabridged" version; raw and like you put it....it is what it is.... good on you.
However, with family, I do the exact opposite. Reservation 4 star or better, etc...
I saw a dude fighting with a baboon in Cairo. You don't get that on an itinerary.
Isn't it called NEW Dehli? Or is that somewhere else? New Amsterdam is NYC..?
Oh, I read on and you do call it New Dehli. I wasn't sure. thanks.
I think there is a famous shot of that reflecting pond in front of the Taj Mahal that you took a GREAT picture of where Lady Diana was sitting? I heard it is a tourist trap photo op now? Sit in the same place/chair? hehe
I love your style of writing. You are very honest. Chaotic....pollution...poverty probably isn't mentioned or on a poster at the travel agency, either. Bring on the next part.
Thanks for your patience and work at posting this amazing trek. Very extreme..
|
|
|
Vancouver
107 Posts |
Posted - 06/26/2012 : 2:01 PM
|
| Can't wait to read and see more. Keep it up Dean. |
|
|
Calgary, Alberta
Canada
615 Posts |
Posted - 06/27/2012 : 12:10 PM
|
| Wow. You're certainly seeing the world by the look of the two trip reports posted so far. Amazing stuff, really inspiring. India is high on my list but my wife isn't convinced yet... |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
|
|
Himalayan Expedition: Ama Dablam (6,812m)
