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362 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 12:07 AM
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My interest in Mt Breakenridge probably began as a teenager camping on the western shores of Harrison and gazing up at the summit of SW2 across the lake. Of course then I wasn’t interested in climbing it, just thought it looked cool and kind of brooding in how completely it dominated the eastern view. Reading the 3 unique and equally awesome CT ascents in the last year brought a more cohesive plan into my mind that I ended up sitting on for nearly a year before pulling the trigger.
Nudity on Breakenridge!!! June 18th-19th 2011 – paulyman, leimrod & Springbow
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39649&SearchTerms=breakenridge
Breakenridge real time... – Marduk, MatthewBaldwin et al.
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=39526&SearchTerms=breakenridge
Mt. Breakenridge + SW2 - Aug 26-28 – Robdabanc et al.
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40854&SearchTerms=breakenridge
Let me assure you that I didn’t overlook the fact that each of these trips had been completed with an overnight stay either near the tarns at 1600m or close to the main summit. These people all have enviable climbing resumes and are very effective at getting shit done so I knew it wouldn’t be too easy as a day trip. The plan would be to time the retreating spring snow such that you could fully utilize the drivable logging roads but encounter firm and continuous snow shortly thereafter. Not knowing the exact location of the snowline in the ascent valley made this an educated guess at best but in the end we gauged it perfectly.
Jeremy and I set out at nearly 10:30 on Friday night and arrived to the small avalanche run-out near 520m elevation where we parked near 1am. I tried to grab a few hours of sleep before my alarm at 4:30 but don’t think either of us ended up sleeping much at all. We put my air mattress in the back of the Cherokee but the vehicle wasn’t really wide enough to accommodate it – suffice to say that gravity is a bitch and if we didn’t know each other so well, we’d each be thinking the other was trying to get fresh A couple of Starbucks vias with breakfast the next morning set us right and we were on our way by 5:30am... it was getting pretty bright out already I thought.
 
The snow line was exactly where I’d hoped it’d be and the snow itself was supportive and helpful in providing clear lines of travel above the upper sections of logging road. Within 1.5 hours the last remnants of clear cut and road network were behind us and we drew ever closer to gaining the ridgeline above.
 
Urquhart was prominent to the south as we traversed the head of a small but powerful creek and began to enter the topographically complex system of tarns, gullies, cliffs and hills which would characterize the middle segment of the ascent. As the route was unknown to me, we often found ourselves climbing small and isolated hills only to give up 50-75m of elevation by dropping into a low point again. This part was interesting but I suspect someone more familiar with the area could navigate it more effectively than we did.
  
  
By 10am we had reached the final tarn and began our climb up the 900m central gully. Leaving the last of the stunted alpine tress behind also meant saying goodbye to any respite from the unrelenting solar radiation for the next 5 hours. Ascending that gully under the sun’s full force was somehow equal parts ruthless, exhilarating and amazing all at once. There’s nowhere else I’d have rather been on that bluebird Saturday morning and the sad part is that even I can’t tell if that’s sarcasm anymore.
  
The higher you went the more views just continued to open up below and soon enough we found ourselves standing beneath the trademark set of jagged gendarmes below the summit proper - an impressive set of sentinels looming above.
  
  
To the north-east and a bit taller than the broken ridge was the summit proper and a final push put us on top. It may have taken nearly 7 hours and been bereft of style and glamour but by God we were here and that’s all that mattered. The pictures probably say more than I could so I’ll let them speak for themselves.
  
  
  
A chilling wind spurred us on and we soon set off to our next objective. They say standing on SW2 literally puts Harrison Lake at your feet so I was more than eager to experience that first hand. Once the wind had died a ways off the summit we stopped for some sandwiches and sun tanning on the broad shoulder of the sub-peak. Mt Douglas, Traverse and Breakenridge certainly made for a nice backdrop.
   
Walking up SW2 made for some unique photo opportunities.
  
Nice as those were, I think the best pictures of the day were still to come...
       
Once satisfied, we began the return trip by seemingly stepping off the edge of the world - certainly a good way to descend 800m in 20 minutes.
  
Careful to avoid the many cliffs and steep bluffs we had observed earlier, we eventually came back into the trees and very welcoming shade. By now the snow was extremely soft and travel was becoming a draining experience.
 
Since we chose a different route to return, linking back up to our ascent route wasn’t the easiest task amongst the small hills and valleys but we eventually persevered.
  
Reversing our route of tarns and alpine forest to old growth to clear cut to logging road to car was straightforward but seemed to drag on forever. Anytime we tried to bypass a small feature we had needlessly gone up and over we got caught in some unforeseen terrain trap and had to work that much harder to get out. A creek with undercut banks well in excess of 3m deep made for an interesting obstacle.
 
Back to the car for 6:30pm clocked us in at 13 hours - nobody said Breakenridge in a day would be easy so I’ll run with it.
  
Jeremy was fully asleep and I was getting dozy on the long drive back so I stopped near Cogburn Beach for this picture of our friend in the evening light.
Some things are slow to change and to this day I still love camping at tucked away beaches far up Harrison West. I think those trips will only be heightened by my time on Breakenridge and that looking up the broad plateau and snow fields of the summit will bring a rush of nostalgia and contentment that’s hard to define. Overall an amazing experience filled with memories of friends, fun, adversity, sun, snow, water and rock. |
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 Outdoors addicted flyfishing, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking car crooner and resident motormouth
Da'Wack, BC
Canada
5372 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 01:01 AM
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And I was saying just the other day, you can barely cross a road without running into a Starbucks these days.
What a trip, you told the story with some style. Isn't it grand to look up later and remember what it felt like to stand "right about there."? And it goes without saying...what a great set of summits to attach a memory to. |
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Chilliwack, BC
Canada
842 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 05:41 AM
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You're going to make Matthew cry with those views...just stop it already.
Excellent report, wicked pix. Good job guys.
Kelly |
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Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3838 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 07:10 AM
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| Very impressive. Excellant trip. |
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ABBOTSFORD, BC
Canada
40 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 07:13 AM
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| Nice work Guys!! Super Cool!! |
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357 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 07:20 AM
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Way to get it done guys...Breakenridge and SW2 in 1 day! I still need to get back up there and stand on SW2 and Traverse.
quote:
As the route was unknown to me, we often found ourselves climbing small and isolated hills only to give up 50-75m of elevation by dropping into a low point again.
I remember all of the small gullies and hills just after the tarn that it's pretty hard to navigate. We were completely in clouds at that point which made it worse as we couldn't make out any higher points.
Loved the TR! You really got the weather...shhh don't let Matthew hear about this. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1114 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 09:39 AM
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Great ascent guys. That's 3 weekends in a row if I'm not mistaken Ben. Way to get out there.
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A couple of Starbucks vias with breakfast the next morning set us right and we were on our way by 5:30am
....dang....they finally put a starbucks in at the far end of Harrison...what will they think of next? |
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Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
4003 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 11:47 AM
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1009 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 12:39 PM
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Even though I've been up quiet a few mountains since, I still think of Mount Breakenridge as possibly the best overnight trip I've been on since I started hiking. The sunset and sunrise up there above the clouds was amazing. We never did get to see Harrison Lake on that trip though.
We would of bagged SW2 if our window of being above the clouds hadn't closed on us so fast.
How long did it take you to hike from Breakenridge to SW2?
Love seeing reports from this peak though. Could possibly be the last of a few for this mountain if it has a fate similar to the Hope slide.
From bivouac:
"A series of fault-like ridges in the bedrock SW of the summit icefields of Breakenridge, overlooking the lake, have been investigated by geologists over the years. These are believed to be the upper tension cracks of a large mass of rock of dubious stability. The possibility exists that a catastrophic rock avalanche on the scale of the Hope Slide could enter the lake and create a pseudo-tsunami with enough power to seriously damage the village of Harrison Hot Springs. The exact possibility of such an occurrence taking place is generally thought to be low, but not non-existant."
When we were up there last year some Geologists where actually doing surveys in the area to see if the area was still stable. |
Edited by - leimrod on 05/15/2012 12:40 PM |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13478 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 12:43 PM
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That is one awesome epic, super job well done to get both. Views are great, and very much enjoyed those photos..
K |
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505 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 5:17 PM
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I really wish there was a slow clap equivalent that could be written in text, that's how impressed I am. Great job guys on not only putting Breakenridge, but also SW2 in the bag. You're t'r strikes me as being very impressive in many ways not only completing it as a day trip, but the weather was outstanding! great photos and good job guys
Paul |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1007 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 6:00 PM
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
345 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 8:52 PM
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| What to say..... besides doing this in one day is really outstanding! That total ascent is just insane! Congrats guys, you deserve well your profile name! |
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362 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2012 : 08:55 AM
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Thanks guys! Reading those reports from last year really inspired this trip and I'd love to get back for a crack at Traverse sometime soon. Something about this area is very appealing to me...
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How long did it take you to hike from Breakenridge to SW2?
A little more than 1 hour at a relaxed pace and with a 20 lunch break on the way.
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 Best grilled cheese maker ever
Whitehorse, YUKON
Canada
2149 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2012 : 09:12 AM
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| Super solid. |
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Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada
1089 Posts |
Posted - 05/16/2012 : 09:40 AM
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| Not every trip is a Mount Clarke or Breakenridge, you've got some of the better one's on your list |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
667 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 4:05 PM
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I heard about it!!!! Gaaarrrrr! lol. Nice! Nice views up there. Nice job.
Name the peak on that side that has not had a recorded summit in... 50+ years |
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362 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 5:45 PM
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I heard about it!!!! Gaaarrrrr! lol. Nice! Nice views up there. Nice job.
It's all for you man :) As far as naming the unascended peak goes, I have no idea. Gimme some time to look into it and I'll take a crack @ naming it |
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505 Posts |
Posted - 05/20/2012 : 3:20 PM
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Mind if I take a crack at guessing?
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Originally posted by MatthewBaldwin
I heard about it!!!! Gaaarrrrr! lol. Nice! Nice views up there. Nice job.
Name the peak on that side that has not had a recorded summit in... 50+ years
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362 Posts |
Posted - 05/20/2012 : 9:50 PM
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Mind if I take a crack at guessing?
Okay, I got nothing. Paulyman or Matthew...??? |
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505 Posts |
Posted - 05/20/2012 : 10:00 PM
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I think it's Douglas Peak, do we have a winner?quote:
Originally posted by DoubleE Alpinist
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Mind if I take a crack at guessing?
Okay, I got nothing. Paulyman or Matthew...???
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Breakenridge Blue Sky (and SW2) – May 12, 2012
