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1355 Posts |
Posted - 05/12/2012 : 11:54 AM
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Last Thursday Marjan and I did Mount Matier. It was the fifth ascent for Marjan and the first for me.
Some information about Matier Mountain from bivouac.com site
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Located northeast of Lillooet Lake and southwest of Duffy Lake. Pronounced "mat-ier". A fine peak offering a number of fine snow and rock routes encompassing a variety of moderate to easy grades. Summit views are wide ranging, as this is the highest peak in the Joffre Group. Likewise, Matier is a landmark peak which can be seen from many other summits in the range, and picked out from a considerable distance.
The north side is the most commonly seen, and is glaciated, with a sharply defined summit crest. The southwest side has greater relief and is slabby granite. The southeast side has a steep, narrow glacier sandwiched between rock ribs.
Name Notes: This peak was originally called "Anniversary Peak" by the first ascent party, in commemoration of the 50th anniversary of the BCMC (British Columbia Mountaineering Club). However, that name was rejected because it referred to a specific organization. The final name was "Mount Matier". There have always been rumors that this is the name of a French General. However, I can find no record of such a general. Ken Wardell says that people in the area say it was named after his great uncle Thomas Matier, who was a well known prospector in that area.
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Here are the trip stats
Summit - 2783m (9131ft)
Elevation gain ~ 1580m (5184ft)
Round trip time ~ 12hours 15 minutes (Ascent time ~ 7hours)
Round trip distance ~ 17.8KM
Gear - helmet, crampons, snowshoes, two ice-axes, hiking poles
Weather - Cold, mix of sun and clouds, windy at the glacier.
Snow - very solid during night and early morning, slushy on the way back. It’s still a winter snow conditions above the Anniversary Glacier.
We left Vancouver at 11:00 PM to set off for the trail really early. We started walking before 2 o’clock in the morning. It was freezing cold at the parking lot. That was what we wanted. The melted during the day light snow was rock solid at the night. I had a feeling we walked on the pavement, not on the snow. Walking on the firm snow was very pleasant. We really didn’t need the snowshoes up until the Anniversary Glacier. Moon showed up when we approached the hut. The views were fantastic under the moonlight. When we reached the Matier Joffre col the strong winds welcomed us. It was really cold and windy up there, real winter conditions. We put crampons and all our clothes on to start the final ascent. At the beginning of the ascent I felt like I’m out of fuel. I needed some food to continue. I had to stop for a breakfast break. Marjan didn’t wanna stop in the wind, he just kept going. After a quick sandwich and hot tea I followed him. Marjan summited first then I reached the summit about 20 minutes later. Luckily for us the winds eased on us when were at the summit. We were able to take a few pictures and quickly went down. We were back at the car by 2:00 o’clock afternoon.
Here are a few pictures from the trip.
I didn’t take any pictures during our ascent. Firstly it was dark, then it was really cold and windy. All pictures were taken at the summit and on the way down.
The summit pictures.
   
   
1. A subsummit.
2. The summit, and the narrow summit ridge.
3. GPS shot.
4. Joffre Peak.
5. Above the clouds
6. Two ice-axes and the pack
7. Me at the summit.
8. Matier's done!!!
Going down and Matier Glacier.
     
1. Joffre Peak and Assie Couloir.
2. Matier Glacier and beyond. You can see Low Joffre Lake.
3. The sun is rising above the Matier North ridge.
4. Mt. Slalok.
5. Mt. Matier North ridge. You can see a depression on the way. It's a bergschrund. We passed it on the right.
6. Marjan.
Anniversary Glacier.
    
1. Marjan walking down the Anniversay Glacier.
2. View of Cerise Creek Valley.
3. Some avalanche debris.
4. Zoom on Mount Duke North-West ridge.
5. Mt. Caspar is on the background. We did it last year.
At the Keiths Hut.
  
1. Quick water break at the hut.
2. Still some weather going on over Matier.
3. Time to go back to the car.
Walking back to the car.
 
1. Duffey lake.
2. Snow bridge over Cerise creek. It'll be gone soon.
GPS stats.
 
1. Tracks
2. Profile. |
Edited by - nortonchum on 05/12/2012 12:28 PM
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Hope, BC
Canada
7095 Posts |
Posted - 05/12/2012 : 3:12 PM
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Wow, nice report and pics...
This pic:
Made me clench my teeth just looking at it.
You rarely hike the easy ones  |
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Port Moody, BC
169 Posts |
Posted - 05/12/2012 : 9:16 PM
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You managed to get in quite the reflection effect with the windows on the hut. I guess there's a lot of snow still to melt in that part of the world.
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
330 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2012 : 05:32 AM
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| Laser-like focus on the objective! Not all that often you see Matier done as a day trip - well done. |
Edited by - noman on 05/13/2012 8:47 PM |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1002 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2012 : 10:22 AM
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Pretty damn cool!
I think I met Marjan on our way down Harvey a month or so ago...very friendly gentleman. : ) |
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Ladner
62 Posts |
Posted - 05/13/2012 : 10:37 AM
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| Well done Nikolai! You have wanted to do Matier for a long time, nice to have it ticked off your "Bucket List". |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1007 Posts |
Posted - 05/14/2012 : 09:28 AM
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Fine ascent in great style.
Love your TR's Nikolai, anyone could print them off and use them as a guide for the mountain.
Looks like loads of snow has burned off since I was there a few weeks ago.
Here's our photo from around the same spot:
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6 Posts |
Posted - 03/16/2013 : 01:13 AM
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| Nice trip report! What was the reason for having two ice axes, would one not be enough? Just curious to learn. |
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Mt. Matier North Ridge standard route May 10, 2012
