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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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 Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 11/15/2004 : 1:58 PM
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Ok this was a rock climbing trip but I did do quite a bit of hiking too.
For hikers who wonder "Where the hell is Smith Rocks?" it is in central Oregon north of Bend. The Crooked River has eroded down through basalt lava flows and left behind a wild landscape of eroded volcanic welded tuff pinnacles. This is one of the most popular climbing areas on the West Coast but also a fun place to hike around. Over 4 days we did a fair bit of climbing, lots of hiking, and saw scads of wildlife - skunk, coyote, golden eagles, snafflehounds, peregrine falcon, deer etc. A cougar was reported in the area but we never saw it. Other activities enjoyed were gigantic rope swings, giant bonfires at the free climbers campsite and some general good times.
i will embellish this trip report later with a bunch of photos. |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 11/15/2004 : 10:12 PM
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Disclaimer: most of the photos from this trip turned out horrible so I have thrown in a few from other trips for general interest.
View over the park to the Oregon volcanoes. The Sisters are in the center of the photo in the distance.
The Marsupial Spires
Squaw Rock and the Leaning Brave
The famous Monkey Face, it looks more like an ice cream cone from this angle.
Vulture circling near the summit of Squaw Rock
Climber silhouetted on Sky Ridge
Climbing basalt columns in the Crooked River Gorge.
Tagging the summit of Brogan Spire
Tyrolean traverse into the Mouth Cave
The Scarface "king swing" rope swing with Dan at the apex of the swing out
Alasdair climbing near sunset.
Anyways most of these are climbing pictures not hiking pictures but hopefully it will give some idea of the amazingly beautiful terrain of the Oregon high desert which is worth checking out even if you don't climb. |
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 Moxie scambler of pinnacles, tireless leader haunting the CDN/US border climbing everything in sight
Burnaby, BC
Canada
1272 Posts |
Posted - 11/15/2004 : 10:26 PM
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Good stuff Dru! Lots of questions, though. Was it more sport or trad? I did a quick search and there really seemed to be a lot of sport routes, was this the case? How were the crowds on the good 5.8-5.9 leads? How was the rock? Was the camping crowded? $4 per person per night is a great deal! How long a drive to central Oregon? Is it a little warmer there than here right now?
Thanks for the info!
PB |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 11/15/2004 : 11:11 PM
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There is a lot of sport AND a lot of trad. It's crowded on American holidays and weekends although, the crowds are pretty manageable and confined to the most popular areas. The rock is unusual and fun although nothing like granite - there is welded tuff, and basalt. You can camp for free if you are willing to drive 10 minutes east of the park. The weather was cold in the shade and warm in the sun, unfortunately this time (pics from other times aside) it was mostly cloudy and hence cold, but not so cold as to be unclimbable, just kind of shivery when belaying - not as bad as ice climbing though.
It takes between 7 and 10 hours to get there from Vancouver area depending on which way you drive and how fast you speed. We went down to Portland Wed night, stayed with a friend, drove over Thurs AM, climbed Thu PM, all day Friday and Saturday, Sunday till 1PM and were home by 10:30 PM Sunday. I usually make the drive down 2 or 3 times a year - when Vancouver is forecast to be cold and wet, it is often sunny and warm in Smith. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
366 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2004 : 2:56 PM
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| Great pictures Dru. Bizarre looking place. Some of the rock looks soft, like sandstone. If not, it appears to be a great climbing gym. Thanks for the report. |
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Langley, BC
549 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2004 : 6:21 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Peak Bagger
Good stuff Dru! Lots of questions, though. Was it more sport or trad? I did a quick search and there really seemed to be a lot of sport routes, was this the case? How were the crowds on the good 5.8-5.9 leads? How was the rock? Was the camping crowded? $4 per person per night is a great deal! How long a drive to central Oregon? Is it a little warmer there than here right now?
Thanks for the info!
PB
There's several famous sport routes. It's the only climbing area I've seem where the guys are doing their hair in the morning. Some of the routes had lineups but most of the action was on the 5.11 and up routes.
It's desert so it can be smoking hot during the day and below freezing at night. I was there during Thanksgiving (but I can't remember if it was Canadian or American) and it was hot during the day and freeze your water bottle cold at night. |
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Manitoba's misadventurin' bushwhackin', dog sloggin', dehydratin', beer drinkin' biggie - who's eager to peak bag Mt Currie in a dress
Squamish
5037 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2004 : 6:28 PM
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Great stuff, Dru! Thanks for the pictures |
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Utah's canyon trekking,deck chair packing desert explorer who dreams of visiting Canada someday
3988 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2004 : 11:14 PM
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Way cool! Never saw that shade of basalt. Grand canyon is real dark columns. Your pictures are great! sort of look like Garden of the Gods in Colo Spr. Monkey Face reminds me of Utah rock formations. Man, I've gotta get northwest and take a road trip.
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May your trails be crooked, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing views ! Edward Abbey |
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Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
13031 Posts |
Posted - 11/16/2004 : 11:27 PM
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| Somehow,though I've been all around the Bend area,I've never checked that out.Looks like a cool place.Are there a lot of hiking trails there as well? |
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Moxie scambler of pinnacles, tireless leader haunting the CDN/US border climbing everything in sight
Burnaby, BC
Canada
1272 Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2004 : 08:10 AM
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Thanks for the info, guys! Looks like an interesting place.
PB |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 11/17/2004 : 09:18 AM
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Yeah there are extensive hiking trails, both around the pinnacles, and up onto nearby Gray Butte which is the highest spot in that part of Central Oregon I believe. The most popular trail loops around the Smith Group and past the Monkey Face before climbing over the ridge via the aptly named Misery Ridge Trail(about 300m vertical, Mick  ) and back down to the bridge for about 1.5 hours out. But there are much longer and remote hikes to do where you won't see anyone but vultures, cougars and dead sheep all day. Also there are some lava tubes nearby worth checking out when the bats aren't hibernating. Right at the edge of the Smith park is a half mile long irrigation canal tunnel you can walk and wade thru in the fall when things are dry (it's too wet to do it in the spring). |
Edited by - Dru on 11/17/2004 09:19 AM |
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Smith Rocks OR
