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Edmonton, AB
Canada
465 Posts |
Posted - 08/06/2012 : 8:30 PM
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This is the second day of our backpacking trip to Little Yoho. Andrea and her group went for Kiwetinok to Pollinger to McArthur, while Mike and I went for all 4. We grouped together for the first three though. Normally, doing steep snow climb in August requires early start, like 5AM. But we decided to wake up at 7... Anyway, if we woke up 1 hour later, we would probably fail Kiwetinok due to snow condition...
For those of you who haven't done these peaks yet, I highly suggest you to go Little Yoho in good weather day, not just because of the climbing, but also because of the views. This is one of the areas that can easily take your breathe away, so don't miss the views. Just look at the location, the west boundary of Wapta Icefield! For photographers, I suggest you do the traverse this way: Kiwetinok - Pollinger - McArthur - Kerr. Do Kiwetinok in the morning and Kerr in evening, so that you can get completely different views from these two mountains. That's exactly what we got.
Andrea's group started the day by doing a river fording. I tend to avoid these type of stuffs for as much as I can, so I hiked back to Stanley Mitchell Hut and used the bridge to cross Little Yoho River. This way I added 0.7km distance though. We regrouped and started the trudge to Kiwetinok Pass on a well defined trail, on a slow pace. Apart from several creek crossings, there's no difficulty on this trail. On normal pace you can get to the pass in 1 hour. At the pass, the clear water in Kiwetinok Lake provided good photographing opportunity.
  
   
I had the peak in my mind so I didn't take any break at the lake, but started the ascent towards the high col (Kiwetinok - Pollinger col) immediately. By using the snow, I could almost completely avoid the tedious rubble, which was a bonus. I would suggest you taking out your ice axe if you're not confident on snow. The snow was in good condition and I could kick firm steps, so I didn't bother using ice axe, and I felt my poles can give more balance. Snow got harder higher up, we trended more towards climber's right according to Kane's suggestion. From the col, I got the first head-on view of Freshfield Icefield.
 
The slope on Kiwetinok didn't look as bad as I thought. I took out my ice axe and helmet, and soon started the step-kicking. Andrea and Mike followed me behind, but the other 3 decided to stay below. The climb started easy, but got steeper soon as we gaining elevation. Based on Kane's photo, I knew there should be permanent ice underneath. So later in the season crampons will be required. For us, the snow was deep enough. To gain the rock ledge above, I had to traverse left. Coming up and down this part is the crux of the entire weekend. Even though the slope wasn't as steep as the giant NE face of Mt Pierre Elliott Trudeau, the run-out zone was much worse. An uncontrolled glissade would dump us to the rocks and cliffs below... I had to double check every step before moving to the next. We took our time here and three of us got to the rock safely. Mike will show you the exact line we took.
   
From here to the summit, it was a matter of route-finding. Kane only mentions traversing climber's left upon reaching a rotten band of shale. That's obviously vague. I cannot tell the exact line we took. We first ascended straight up beside the snow, on steep ledges and slabs. Upon reaching a band that looks like the one Kane talks about, we traversed left. This band was loose and very exposed. A slip would end up with a fall, which would be really hurt... Further left, I bumped onto a very wet and slippery section. I had to fingers-down to help balance, while slowly backtrack for about 1.5m to safer ground. I told Andrea and Mike that we had to break through the rock band above now. We took slightly different lines from here up, but we all got to the summit without incidence. The highlight of the view was towards the distant Purcells and Selkirks, including the Bugaboos, Sir Donald, and Sir Sanford.
    
Summit Panorama:
West Range, with Selkirks and Purcells behind:
The Freshfields and Amiskiwi Valley:
Marpole, Goodsir, Carnavon, Vaux:
Other summit photos:
  
Due to the concern about snow condition, we didn't linger any longer, but started heading down soon. We had fresh memory of our ascending line, so we managed to retrace our steps down almost exactly, to the snow slope. Again, the terrain was very loose, and I carelessly dislodged a soccer ball sized rock, and watched it tumbled down the snow slope, then the cliff bands below... This is an example of doing an uncontrolled slide... Oh well... The snow got softer but was still okay to descend. I just had to kick further in to be sure. The next 10min was very awkward, as we were facing inwards while doing diagonal traverse. While I got to a safer position, I set a glissade which quickly brought me down to the col. Andrea and Mike followed me behind. We all enjoyed the glide though.
     
Now the toughest part of the trip is over!! I could take a long breathe as I knew our trip to Little Yoho would be a success! We bumped into 3 mountaineers who traversed from Isolated Peak via Glacier des Poilus. They could recognize me though. They are Wietse, Kevin Papke, and Steve. After discussing about the condition on Kiwetinok, they decided to give it a miss due to the snow condition. Kevin talked about the plan on Saturday to Fisher Peak which caught my interest. After saying goodbye to them, we started the trudge towards Pollinger. It's merely a bump on the shoulder of McArthur, and to get there was just a walk.
  
Summit Panorama:
Just beyond the summit of Pollinger, we were facing a nasty looking down-climb, about 15m high... It looks much worse than what Kane mentions in his book.. I carefully led the way down. The holds were good, but the exposure was severe. A fall would be very very badly... We took our time here again, and all of us got down safely. Both Kiwetinok and McArthur definitely deserve the difficult rating. They're much more involved than the other difficult scrambles like Norquay or Burstall.
   
After this downclimb, the rest of the way to McArthur was a slog, on rubbles and boulders. There's little to describe here, as it's mainly about perseverance. Just keep your mind here, the summit view of McArthur is the best among all 6 peaks in this area.
Summit Panorama:
Mt Mummery, Freshfield Icefield area & Mt Forbes:
Wapta Icefield: Des Poilus, Collie, Gordon:
Waputik Icefield: Balfour, Daly, Niles:
Lake Louise Giants: Temple, Victoria, Huber, Hungabee:
The Presidents, Goodsirs, Marpole, Carnavon, Vaux:
West Range, Purcells, Selkirks:
Other summit photos:
      
Because Mike and I still had Kerr in plan, we had to get down quick. It was already past 3pm by the time we got to McArthur. I got pretty dehydrated by this point, but thankfully there was snow here and there.
Getting up the crux step:
  
Plunging step down the snow slope to Kiwetinok Pass was very fun and fast. During which we were treated with spectacular views of Kiwetinok Lake and The Presidents:
   
   
Mike and I took a necessary energy break at Kiwetinok Pass. We thought about leaving Kerr for the next day, but I didn't agree with this plan as we were uncertain about the weather... I'd like to get up Kerr in good weather. This is probably the most popular scramble in this area, as there's a beaten path, as well as tens of cairns. With basic sense of route-finding, it was hard to get lost. With good attitude, we arrived at the first summit, the official summit of Kerr.
   
Summit Panorama:
Wapta and Waputik Icefields:
To make sure we summitted Kerr, we had to make to the next high point, known as the true summit. There's about 100m elevation loss in between, which was frustrating... Minor rock bands on the connecting ridge presented some route-finding issues, and we had to drop usually towards skier's left to overcome them. The final trudge up the true summit reminded Mike about Read's Tower. It's an easy scramble. The summit cairn was huge, and to get a panorama, I had to climb up it, which was a bit sketchy...
Summit Panorama:
Other summit photos:
   
We took our time on the way down due to the looseness of the ground. It was easy to twist an ankle when you're tired. We could also find a snow slope which offered great plunge-stepping. The rest of the day back to camp was a slog, but due to the evening sun, we got great views. This is definitely the highlight of summer 2012 so far. Success on 4 remote peaks, difficult fun scrambling, snow climb, great company, and the view like this.
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over the hills and far away
Canada
708 Posts |
Posted - 08/06/2012 : 9:52 PM
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To go from Kiwetinok to MacArthur, then all the way back to Kerr does not make sense to me... but hey your photos are great so maybe you're onto something.
That downclimb off Pollinger can easily be avoided by a ledge on the right just before the summit, by the way.
And here's how you write a multi-day trip report  :
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36741 |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
465 Posts |
Posted - 08/06/2012 : 10:32 PM
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Clayton:
It would be nice to get The Presidents done. Next time when I head for Presidents, if condition isn't allowed, I will have no alternative plans...
Looks like you got smoky views ;) But I do enjoy your photos. Maybe smoke isn't that bad though. I got frustrated about smoke on The Black Tusk... Couldn't even see Sea to Sky Highway from above.
We thought about the alternative ledge to get through the crux, but there was snow lingering. The terrain was also exposed so a slide would sent us all the way down. Judging by the time of the day, we thought solid rock would be safer. |
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287 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 06:48 AM
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This is a place I would not mind repeating one day. Was the summit register in Kiwetinok still the original placed by A Kane?
I am also a little curious. With a 70L pack, and having your tent, sleeping bag, and pad dangling on the outside, and with no stove or cooking equipment, what else did you have in that pack? For the same length of trip, I have a 45L pack with all my gear inside save my crocs. Might be worth your while to do some internet searching on back-country packing and equipment.
In any case, good report. Brings back many good memories from my trip there a few years ago. This one still rates as one of my favourites all time. |
Edited by - jeffs78 on 08/07/2012 10:26 AM |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
216 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 08:30 AM
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An incredible day for sure. Here's some additional photos from the trip:
  
  
1. A summit view from Kiwetinok
2. Looking back at Pollinger and Kiwetinok from McArthur
3. The colourful valley behind Kiwetinok (lots of interesting tree damage, former forestry area?)
4. Kiwetinok Lake from the Kiwetinok/Pollinger col
5. Mt. Kerr true summit from "Kane's Kerr"
6. A look back at "Kane's Kerr" and Kiwetinok
The crux on Pollinger is a bit of a breathtaker. On our return from McArthur there was a raven (the first I had seen all weekend) sitting on the summit cairn waiting for us to ascend. I'm not usually superstitious, but that struck me as somewhat ominous. I was quite happy when I topped out, and even happier when the last of our group made it past as well.
Candy Sack: In dry conditions you would be 100% right about taking the bypass, but you can see the very steep snow gullies still present on that traverse to the left of my photo. It would have required an ice axe and crampons at the very least. I thought of heading for the bypass immediately after seeing the crux in person (like Steven, it was not what I had expected from the descriptions I had read), but after taking a close look at the hazards on the bypass, I soon returned to downclimb the crux.
Jeff: The original register was still in place. It was interesting to see that there were no entries following Kane's until around the publication of the 2nd Edition of his book.
I'll try to provide what clarification I can to the Kiwetinok route (unfortunately, not much) later today.
Oh, and it was the ramp-like profile of Mt. Kerr's true summit that reminded me of Read's Tower. The climb over huge, and quite stable, boulders is quite different from Read's Tower though... a bit more like the upper section of Pyramid Mountain. |
Edited by - Arcturus on 08/07/2012 10:36 AM |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
615 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 09:49 AM
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Great photos Steven! New camera or did you get a CPL? I especially enjoyed the Kiwetinok Lake panos.
I fondly remember doing exactly the same strategy as you with Bob Parr quite a few years ago now. We had the same experience on Kiwetinok and I remember ice on the downclimb from Pollinger to McArthur which added some spice! We took the bypass on return and it was very easy comparatively. I like how the two summits of Kerr have now become the "True" and "Offical" summits! LOL. I bagged the Kane summit 3 times before finally deciding to bag the "real" one and claim it as an official summit. |
Edited by - vern.dewit on 08/07/2012 10:07 AM |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
465 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 10:38 AM
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Jeff,
Yes I have to practice packing efficiently. The way I did was, just dump everything inside and go... Crampons, extra layers, 2L water bottle, helmet, and those sandwiches and muffins... I had to squeeze a bit just to fit these inside the pack.
I even feel my 70L short for space for a winter day trip though. Just the down jacket could take nearly half of the space. |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
465 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 10:43 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by vern.dewit
Great photos Steven! New camera or did you get a CPL? I especially enjoyed the Kiwetinok Lake panos.
I fondly remember doing exactly the same strategy as you with Bob Parr quite a few years ago now. We had the same experience on Kiwetinok and I remember ice on the downclimb from Pollinger to McArthur which added some spice! We took the bypass on return and it was very easy comparatively. I like how the two summits of Kerr have now become the "True" and "Offical" summits! LOL. I bagged the Kane summit 3 times before finally deciding to bag the "real" one and claim it as an official summit.
Vern,
I didn't get a new camera. The sun direction was perfect for taking photos on Mt Kerr. I usually can take good photos in good condition, but when cloudy, dark, or against the sun, my photos will suck.
Ice on that down-climb would be very sketchy... The bottom part would be okay as it's in the chimney, but if there's verglass on the top part, it would be dangerous even if crampons-on.
It's interesting that on NTS map, the summit of Kerr is the same as Kane's peak. NTS is government map, so I would say that's official enough. But according to most peak-baggers, the summit of Kerr is the one further down, which is higher. So I call it the true summit. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
615 Posts |
Posted - 08/07/2012 : 12:40 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by StevenSong
Jeff,
...I even feel my 70L short for space for a winter day trip though. Just the down jacket could take nearly half of the space.
Wha?!  You need to invest in some compression stuff sacks my friend. Makes a HUGE difference in pack space especially for jackets and sleeping bags but I use them for clothing and tents too. I took a 55L pack on the Columbia for a 4 night trip and that included plenty of sandwhiches and obviously sleeping bag / down jacket and all the glacier gear etc... |
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calgary
32 Posts |
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Kiwetinok to Pollinger to McArthur to Kerr
