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Terrace, BC
957 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 3:46 PM
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I've wanted to break 10,000 ft. for a number of years and the opportunity and commitment seemed to make this summer the time to do it.
So off I went with my sister to Ashford to meet the folks at RMI Mountaineering.
This is the way to go for a person like me with little to no mountaineering experience or gear. The guides were very awesome individuals and patient, knowledgeable instructors.
Our group was a mix of us two Canadians, a trio of Turkish Americans, three dudes from Virginia, and others from various spots on the eastern american side. As the course progressed from the initial meet n' greet, through Mountain School, and then to the actual climb we all became a supportive team. We called ourselves Team Excellence
 Here's our route.
 Great weather during the entire time.
 Asford and RMI Base camp.
 The bus ride up
July 4th was training day at Alta Vista bowl above Edith Creek, not far from the visitor centre. Learning to "rest step" up a slope.
 Jake, standing, was our lead guide.  Second guide, Bryson, centre back. We all had fun learning about self-arrest, crampons, rope travel, and how to put your climbing helmet on the snow. A "Happy Turtle", because it won't slide away.
 The Nisqually Glacier above the Muir Snowfield was sloughing off chunks.
While we were upslope on the bowla young girl ran across the bottom of the bowl frantically calling for help. We were instructed to stay with a second group for the rest of the day and our two guides took off to help.We didn't reall know what was happening until later.
http://themountainnewswa.net/2012/07/06/mount-rainier-claims-the-life-of-another-mountaineer-while-rangers-finally-bring-home-one-of-their-own/
That put a pretty sombre feeling to the day.
July 5th - up and at 'em.
Time to climb from 5400' to about 10,000 at Muir Camp.
 Looking keen
    Mt. St. Helens
 Dan from Michigan. This, his third attempt, was successful!!
  By this time we had a third guide, Ben. The ratio was now 1:3
The view from Camp Muir was awesome but we had little time to eat, prepare, and sleep as much as possible for a 12:30 am wake-up and a 1:30 am. climb time.      Cathedral Gap in the top corner.
 
July 6
Everything from Cowlitz Galcier to the top of Disappointment Cleaver was in darkness. I had no issues with elevation and felt strong up to the top of the Cleaver. We practiced good breathing and deliberate rest steps and focussed on each step being a good step.
Once the sun came up and we were on the high slopes we had amazing views. Still feeling ok but starting to get tired.
   The last break, super windy and very cold.
I was drained of just about everything by the time we crossed the Crater Rim. It must have been the 14'000+ feet kicking in.
 
 Summit Success!!! Team Excellence.
The down climb was very hard - I fell once but never again after that. We all had little mantras in our heads to keep focussed - "Nose over Toes", "Every step is a good Step"
Here are some links to photos from other members of our group. We were not encouraged to take pictures except during breaks.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pfeiffer22/sets/72157630545655648/
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ct3ynxx8pqn4res/xBiYoyVUKZ/Mt%20Rainier%20July%202012
http://www.flickr.com/photos/40494418@N06/
This climb was a very special four days in my life. This was probably the toughest activity I’ve ever attempted and I learned a lot about digging deep and pushing through. I can't thank the Guides of RMI, and my fellow climbers enough.
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Edited by - MJB on 07/20/2012 4:52 PM
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 Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
13016 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 4:21 PM
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Reminds me I was once reading Ed Viesturs-might have been in a magazine article- and remember him mentioning that he used to be an RMI guide and that you'd be surprised how many people lost helmets by not placing them down on the snow like this pic |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 5:25 PM
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Years ago I was on Mt. Athabasca, and we decided to have a break on the Saddle, just after getting off the ramp on the North Glacier Route. It's VERY wind there, but my group needed a break. I explained that no one should put anything down that wasn't clipped either to their harness or an anchor. The spot was bare ice, so I drove a screw in, and clipped my pack to it. Then, anything that came out of my pack went back inside, and was not set down.
But, some people didn't listen. Yup, one fellow watched his entire pack go flying down the slope, over the edge, and into the icefall. Another lost one of his trekking poles.
I have always wondered how many things reside in that icefall. Sounds like there's a lot of gear somewhere on Ranier!
Great TR, thanks for posting it!!!! |
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Manitoba's misadventurin' bushwhackin', dog sloggin', dehydratin', beer drinkin' biggie - who's eager to peak bag Mt Currie in a dress
Squamish
5037 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 5:40 PM
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Congratulations, great trip report.
A friend of mine accidentally dropped my missus' pack over a cliff on an overnight hike a couple years ago. It's a super easy mistake to make. He went back and got it the next weekend.  |
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Terrace, BC
957 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 5:43 PM
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| We saw a 1 litre water bottle skitter by from some group above us. It's now part of history in a crevasse. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 6:20 PM
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| I've been keeping up with the RMI blog for several weeks now for conditions etc.....very few teams succeeded in June. Way to go. |
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
1602 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2012 : 11:25 PM
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| Great job. It would have been difficult to continue without hesitation after the recent tragedy on the mountain. |
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Tested on Mt. Rainier July 3-6 2012
