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Vancouver, BC
Canada
661 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 2:39 PM
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"Titkana" (Stoney Indian name for bird) probably won't immediately ring the bell for most BC Coast based readers. It is the peak just north of Mt. Robson at highest end of Tatei ridge that straddles BC / Alberta provincial border. There is little mention of it on CT as well, most often only in context of wider Berg Lake multi-day trip. Having recently explored Berg basin to some extent, I will try to give more detail. Overview of the area:
Mt. Robson and Rearguard rise above Berg Lake on the right; far center left is often overlooked Adolphus Lake (already in Alberta). Tatei Ridge starts above Adolphus, then rises gently for couple of kilometers until its 2827 m high point -- Titkana Peak. Here's the shot showing length of the ridge from the summit:
Length of North Boundary Trail than runs for some 200 km from Jasper to Berg Lake trailhead at Mt. Robson center on Yellowhead Highway can be seen winding its way along Smoky River to the right. Outside the topic of this post, but very good pictorial of that classic backpack can be seen here: http://www.timrussellphotography.com/Backpacking/North-Boundary-Trail-Jasper
Usual approach is via Snowbird Pass -- classic ~20km return hiking trail that starts near Berg Lake ranger cabin just past Rearguard campground (note: Trail is closed in May and June for caribou calving). Initial part follows wide valley at toe of Robson glacier, then climbs lateral moraine leading towards Extinguisher Tower. (My apologies for relatively low quality of photos, but light conditions were dismal -- way too bright, with lots of haze from excessive heat):
    
1. Starting from Robson Pass campground. Looks like I was not the only one enjoying the views
2. Glacial pond at toe of Robson Glacier dwarfed by Mt. Rearguard to the left
3. Zoom on Whitehorn mountain -- one of classic mountaineering routes in the area
4. One of many waterfalls trickling down from alpine basin bellow Tatei Ridge
5. View back to Mumm Peak and Basin from the moraine
The hike along the moraine is one of most jaw-dropping sights I've seen in a long time. It reminded me of Tasman glacier in Aoraki / Mt. Cook in New Zealand, or even more of Scoundrel Ridge in Everest region:
  
1. Upper Robson Glacier
2. Tasman Glacier
3. Ngozumpu Icefall above 5th Gokyo Lake. (Everest peeking far left)
From end of moraine the trail turns left and switchbacks for a bit past large waterfall, then enters upper valley. Hiking is simply delightful here:
My original plan was just Snowbird Pass; having seen how easily I could actually walk-up another Rockies peak I left the trail and charged straight towards moderately angled scree slopes leading to Titkana Peak:
Snowbird Pass is low saddle roughly in center. Titkana left, snowy ridge leading to Lynx Peak to the right. (Side note: It looked like Lynx could be scrambled for bigger part, except for final steep-ish snow slope that probably puts it in realm of mountaineering).
I estimated about an hour, but it took me over 90 minutes from here. Scree is not loose, but the slope was longer than expected. I also had to contend with "attack of the angry ptarmigan". In my 20 years of hiking in western Canada, this was the first. Approaching the scree I ran into the ptarmigan that seemed not afraid at all. It looked at me, then started ruffling its feathers (like male pigeon trying to mate). Wow, cool. But then it took of in the air and charged straight at me -- I had to duck! I tried to fend it off with hiking pole, no success -- it just got angrier. I took a rock but flash of whiskey jack I accidentally killed earlier this year on Black Mountain (don't ask  ) stopped me -- I did not want to go on a bird killing spree. There must be the reason. I looked around -- sure enough, there were couple of chicks flopping on the rocks that must have just hatched day or two ago. Wow. I carefully circled back, then gave it a wide berth. Attacks stopped. It was fascinating watching how the mom guarded imaginary circle she established as her territory.
Beyond that I had no more problems, and soon was hiking up the final slope leading to the summit:
    
1. Gentle final ridge with super views of Reef Icefield under Coleman glacier on other side of Snowbird Pass. Titkana can be scrambled from Snowbird as well, but is less direct.
2. Look back at wide basin I just traversed. Lynx to the left, Robson right. Resplendent can be seen far in the distance
3. Final easy walk -- summit is 10 minutes away
4. Summit cairn -- large cornice was protruding on other side, so I did not venture far
5. Zoom on Resplendent -- one of popular mountaineering objectives in Berg Lake area. Normal route follows Robson Glacier till Robson / Resplendent col, then ascends easy angled snow slopes (visible here in upper right) to the summit.
I was quite tempted to continue along Tatei Ridge, but I did not look carefully enough at slope leading down to Adolphus Lake & wasn't sure if there would be cliffbands I'd have problems downclimbing. Tomorrow I went to the lake and looked a bit closer -- it appears entirely feasible to ascend from Adolphus (maybe some bushwhack and routefinding / scrambling), then do a loop hike with return via Snowbird. I attempt to try this next time I am in the area. Here is pano of Adolphus Lake showing the slope on the right:
I returned the same way & took countless breaks. Didn't get back to my tent at Robson pass till 10:30 pm. Couple of photos taken on return:
 
1. Twilight shot of Robson pond near the trailhead
2. Pano stitch of Robson Glacier. Extinguisher Tower center, Resplendent behind
I will post generic Berg Lake TR in few days, but thought Titkana deserved separate post. I also think whole area is quite underrated / unexplored in terms of scrambles. Robson is of course one of prime mountaineering areas, not just in Canada but globally -- but I believe there are number of options / lower peaks accessible to walkers such as myself. Mumm looked quite inviting; and looking from Mumm basin I thought ascent on climber left of Berg Glacier leading to the Rearguard/Helmet col might be just a scramble (not sure about the bushwhack along the lake). Tons of possibilities for exploration in one of truly magnificent areas of Canadian Rockies. |
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Edmonton, Alberta
Canada
254 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 2:56 PM
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Thanks for sharing zeljkok! Looks like you had fantastic weather, and the photos are awesome!
I've been to Snowbird Pass a couple times, and went partway up Lynx Mountain (Chushina Ridge) and had wondered about Titkana Peak.
I also had a similar experience with a ptarmigan in that area. The mother bird attacked my legs and grabbed at my shoelaces as I was walking along the trail. Fascinating to see! |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
486 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 4:17 PM
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Holy man... This is high on my list now!! I will definitely go there this year!
However, I don't like camping. I will go for Titkana Peak as a day trip, starting at 11PM, catching up Sunrise at Berg Lake. I think I'm fit enough for 80km in one day. |
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Surrey, B.C.
Canada
213 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 4:17 PM
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Great trip report and photos! I am hoping to make it out to this area in August and this is a peak I hadn't considered until now. Looking forward to your Berg Lake TR.  |
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North Vancouver, bc
Canada
155 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 4:25 PM
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| Very nice, photos look awesome. |
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157 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 5:14 PM
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| Love your photos, Zeljkok! You picked the right time for this great hike. Wonderful weather you had! Robson has its own weather system and it`s almost always socked in (at least everytime I`m there... lol) |
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over the hills and far away
Canada
725 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 5:22 PM
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| Very nice indeed. And the photos are great. I once punted a pissed off ptarmigan on the Cheam Pk trail, but regretted it afterwards.... |
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New Westminster, BC
Canada
353 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 6:07 PM
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Hi zeljkok,
I'm heading that way this August camping over at Berg Lake myself. I'm not at all familiar with the area so I've been contemplating sidetrips (pardon the pun) from Berg Lake. I've heard of Titkana recently but your info has inspired me to spend one of those 5 total days summiting Titkana. Very interested to know the route and distance required to the trailhead for Titkana from Berg Lake where we will be base camping. Appreciate any details on this sidetrip.
Cheers |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
661 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 6:28 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by sidetrip
Very interested to know the route and distance required to the trailhead for Titkana from Berg Lake where we will be base camping.
Just keep going up the main trail from Berg Lake CG. 1 km brings you to Rearguard CG; 5 minutes past that Snowbird Pass trail forks to the right (east) towards Robson Glacier, as per my report. There is big BC Parks sign, so you can not miss it. So roughly 20 minutes from Hargreaves shelter at Berg Lake CG where you are staying.
I recommend visiting Robson Pass and Adolphus Lake too. I will post more details in couple of days. Lake is so peaceful and just begging for a dip! Some of most photogenic places in whole basin are there, yet few people seem to bother and explore. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
661 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 6:34 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by StevenSong
However, I don't like camping. I will go for Titkana Peak as a day trip, starting at 11PM, catching up Sunrise at Berg Lake. I think I'm fit enough for 80km in one day.
Not 80 km, but 60 - 65 (22 to Snowbird Pass Trailhead, then about 20 km return to Titkana, then 22 to hike out). Day trip is certainly feasible, in particular as you can trail run most of Berg lake trail. I understand and appreciate your enthusiasm -- I used to do things like that when I was younger (Berg Lake, Tonquin, Skyline, Northover ridge dayhikes to name a few). But in case of Robson area you are really missing out. This is such a fantastic place that 4-5 days visit is what I recommend. Set a camp at Rearguard or Robson pass (avoids crowds), then go around exploring. You can likely scramble 4 or 5 peaks. Just suck up on approach/descent with heavy pack -- you'll be glad you did! |
Edited by - zeljkok on 07/16/2012 6:52 PM |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
661 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 6:37 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by MtnNinja
Love your photos, Zeljkok! You picked the right time for this great hike. Wonderful weather you had! Robson has its own weather system and it`s almost always socked in (at least everytime I`m there... lol)
Thank you Ninja! Robson weather pattern in notorious (as you know). I was waiting for ridge of high pressure; when I saw 5 days in a row forecast for Jasper and Valemount I said let's go. But It was quite hazy and mosquitoes were brutal. Mid-september is likely paradise up there if you can get good weather. |
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| Engor
Intermediate Member
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Calgary
854 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 7:19 PM
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| Great photos! Glad that you got lucky with the weather. It's such fantastic region that I don't mind visiting it every year. |
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846 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 8:39 PM
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This is high class stuff, superb photos.
Didn't you miss the costal bush a bit though? |
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 Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13599 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 8:52 PM
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Spectacular country that is, thanks for those awesome beautiful photos.
K |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
661 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 11:09 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by RamblingBull
Didn't you miss the costal bush a bit though?
How did you know? Can't wait to head out to North Shore to get my fix!
quote:
Originally posted by Engor
Great photos! Glad that you got lucky with the weather. It's such fantastic region that I don't mind visiting it every year.
Thanks! At Whitehorn I thought of you sleeping on 30 bellow with ice-axe instead of pillow and yellow eyes staring from the bush . I think from now on Robson will become annual tradition, same as Skoki. |
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Titkana Peak
