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25 Posts |
Posted - 07/15/2012 : 7:42 PM
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Hi all:
Joel and I just came back from a successful summit climb of Mt. Baker's North ridge. There was also 1 other party of 2 that caught up to us led by an American Alpine Institute guide.
We got to the ice wall in 4 hours, summit in 10.5hrs from camp.
As I realize there are already a few recent reports of this route, I simply want to provide my own feedback of the conditions we found up there, as they may differ from the others. I'll even include a quick snapshot of the coleman-deming route conditions for those that might be interested.
Another team of 2 were going up as we were leaving camp - likely up there today (July 16). This was also a guided group of 2.
The approach to the main slope leading up to the ridge proper is as usual riddled with a maze of crevasses, making it obviously extra spicy in the dark having started our approach in from camp at 12:30am. However the crevasse snow bridges are very solid right now, with minimal at best signs of sags. The cracks you want to pay attention to are wide open, and easily negotiable (avoidable not so much...).
Slope up to North Ridge proper:
We decided to run a belay protected with 2ft pickets on the slope. This wasn't so much due to bad snow conditions, but more where you would end up if a fall did occur, and self-arrest wasn't done - which was 1 of 3 huge crevasses/bergshrunds splitting the base of the slope. We decided to angle up left, between 2 rock outcrops instead of taking the 'shortcut' route up the bigger slope. Snow was great and either direction would be a good climb.
North Ridge to the Ice wall:
If you take the left angle route we did, once you get to the ridge proper - Stay right! We went a bit too far left once we gained the ridge and ended up having to double-back across a crevasse lower down. You'll see that crevasse almost immediately as it goes straight up the slope. Stay right of it and you're good as it angles East (left) and gets to be impassable. Snow up here was great as well. Bomber anchor placements if you decided to use them. We didn't.
The Ice wall:
Ahh the crux. This was our first time up here, and make no mistakes - the pictures you see of it on this site, or any other don't do it justice. This thing is HUGE and intimidating. As we approached it, the decision was to basically go left and 'around the corner'. As another group had done and posted before us, it was more fun to go straight up a 40ft section on the left side. This is what we ended up doing. Going left around the corner would be a good viable option for those who simply can't lead WI3 comfortably.
For those who can lead it comfortably, the tool placements and purchase on front-points were incredible. Tools were so solid that I had 0 worry about my feet being solid at all. Was great climbing! FYI - I didn't place any pro on the short wall climb, but the guide behind me placed a few screws. Screws would likely hold a fall, but I was in the groove and everything was solid and fun.
Pitch 2 of ice wall:
We setup a belay station using ice screws in the side-wall of an open/broken crevasse (or something like it). Was bomber blue ice and used this placement technique higher up too. The 2nd pitch for us was climbed on the ridge proper. Fun first 100ft (WI2 here with good breaks), then angle drops, and snow got a bit weaker. Oddly, the lower angle caused us more problems then the high angle climbs.
The rest of the climb is done on 40-45 degree snow slopes that hold steps VERY well. Nothing much to say here.
Top "crux":
We climbed the top crux gaining the ridge right under the serac. Made me a little nervous seeing that the sun was baking it uninterrupted. Once gained, we simply angled left under it, gained the summit football field, and it was a done deal.
Anchors
The pickets used as anchors were bomb proof. The snow up there was phenomenal for them and we ran up there with 4x 2ft SMC ones. I also used T-slot anchors on 2 different occasions, and they held so well that I had a hard time getting my ax back out of the snow! Even used my 2 ice tools at one point and they held really strong too.
Ice screws I didn't overly trust, but the guide that was up there climbing with us (or us with them?) used equalized screw anchors that seemed to hold well on a hanging belay stance on the ice pitches. Despite the rotten looking ice/snow, everything held strong. Personally, I was finding a crack to plow the screws into, using the side-walls as they are always shaded and provided hard blue ice with great bite. However after seeing how well the guide's use of his anchor held, I could have simply screwed right in to the slope as normal.
Now is the time to climb this route. Snow pickets could hold a car right now... so plow them in, and ease your nerves :)
Coleman-Deming:
On our decent, we found the coleman-deming to be incredibly slushy and deep (boot top slush) - very different from the north ridge route. A few glissades were possible on the way down which made our decent quicker than normal. Crevasses are basically non-existant (at least compared to the ones on the North Ridge...). We had the crampons and roped packed up for the decent. No need for them
Right as you leave camp, you'll see a snow fence protecting a cliff - to prevent you from glissading into it now. Under that cliff though, there is a great snow slope that allows you to glissade down a good 300 feet right to the proper trail.
www.facebook.com/k7climb for all trip pictures :) |
Edited by - K7Climbing on 07/25/2012 4:48 PM
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada
558 Posts |
Posted - 07/15/2012 : 9:27 PM
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| Nice work Ray & Joel! Congrats! We were wondering about you guys over the weekend. |
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25 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 06:32 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by DPM
Nice work Ray & Joel! Congrats! We were wondering about you guys over the weekend.
Thanks! Was such an amazing climb with gorgeous weather. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 07/16/2012 : 07:01 AM
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| Congrats! |
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 Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13435 Posts |
Posted - 07/17/2012 : 9:37 PM
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Nicely done.
Great documentation of the route conditions.
K |
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357 Posts |
Posted - 07/17/2012 : 10:01 PM
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| Looks like a great time with excellent conditions. |
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Mt. Baker - North Ridge successful summit -July 15
