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 Kluane National Park, Alaska and Grizzlies
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susied
Junior Member


Powell River, BC
385 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  7:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply to this posting
Three of us just returned from a wonderful 8 day trip through Kluane, down to Haines AK, ferry to Skagway AK and back to Whitehorse. While the main focus was hiking, we also took a bit of time out for a bit of touristy stuff.

HOT when we flew into Whitehorse, then drove to Haines Junction where we had rented 2 great little cabins for 5 nights.



My stepson is building a funky little house in Haines Junction, so we headed over there for caribou steaks (YUM) cooked over an open fire for dinner. As we walked home after midnight the light on the Auriol Range was lovely.




Next day we hiked to the King's Throne at Kathleen Lake. When you look at the hike from a distance, it's obvious how it got its name. We were headed for the bowl.



The trail starts flat, parallelling Kathleen Lake, for the first couple of km, then after this trail junction starts to climb.



Lots of beautiful flowers along the way.



It was hot, the views were expanding as we ascended, and Hurricane the sled dog was taking advantage of every patch of snow to cool off.



One of our party turned back as the scree was a bit tricky, but we were really happy to reach the impressive cirque, and the fantastic views back over Kathleen Lake and beyond. The wind was blowing like crazy.



Here's a video link.

http://youtu.be/nFB6jT2xblk

Next day we headed north to Kluane Lake, and the Sheep Creek trail. I had unfinished business with this one - on an earlier trip to the Yukon we had started on the trail, but not made it to the end due to time constraints. This hike is in prime grizzly country, so we were singing and generally being noisy - as my companions are both Russian I vastly increased my knowledge of Russian lullabies and revolutionary songs. The trail climbs steadily, and from the first viewpoint there's a great vista of Sheep Creek and the Slims River valley.



En route you pass the tree with very male characteristics, and some interesting hoodoos.



The trail ends at lookout with Sheep Creek far below, 48 Pup Creek (interesting name) on one side, Sheep Mountain above and the toe of the Kaskawulch Glacier in the distance. We searched in vain for Dall sheep.



Videos ...

http://youtu.be/h6Ad7xSTp2c

http://youtu.be/p8_S1Ak7g4c" target="_blank"> http://youtu.be/p8_S1Ak7g4c

On the way home we saw our first grizzly of the trip, off in the distance. No mistaking that hump!



Tuesday started off grey and drizzly, so we opted for short hikes closer to Haines Junction. We started out on the DeCoeli trail, but when after a couple of km it narrowed to a game trail in head high bush right beside a very noisy creek, I opted to turn back as there was bear sign all around and I didn't fancy surprising a grizzly with cubs. We did a little loop trail nearby, and then walked along the lovely Dezadeash trail by the river. Lots of flowers, and potential moose hangouts, but no moose. Elena R found some excellent mushrooms that she cooked up in the evening. Mooseburgers for dinner, we appreciate Mike's hunting skills!



The next day we split up, and Elena A and I returned to Sheep Mountain proper as I really wanted to get high on the mountain and look out over Kluane Lake. The trail starts off steep and stays that way. After a couple of km the trail peters out, and then you can just hike up and up and up. Great sense of freedom. The wind was howling, so we decided not to do the 17 km loop down to Sheep Creek as we were tired of battling the gale.



We went looking for grizzlies around 10 pm, but no luck. Beautiful views of the Kluane range, though.



Thursday was grizzly day. We were heading down to Haines, AK, along the incredibly scenic Haines Highway. What a fantastic drive. About 70 km out of Haines Junction we happened upon this handsome guy grazing in a meadow by the road.



Video ...

http://youtu.be/kXwg1NLhnhc

The Tatshenshini River overlook was well worth stopping for.



We had lunch at Million Dollar Falls, where Elena A found flecks of gold in the river.



Haines Summit was a fantastic moonscape, but close examination disclosed tiny plants hanging on in the boggy areas. Had a vid of this, but it would not upload to YouTube - maybe too big.



We stopped for a photo op a little way down the road, and as I walked back to the car I happened to glance over my shoulder and see a big furry bum further up the road. Momma grizzly and two young cubs. We watched for about 20 minutes as she fed them, played with them, rolled around with her feet in the air and generally acted goofy. Marvellous.



The rain started as soon as we crossed the US border, and the motel was a dump. However an excellent dinner at Mosey's Cantina (great fish tacos) revived our spirits.

Saturday we headed out towards Seduction Point, looking across Chilkat Inlet. A moose met us at the trailhead.



After a couple of miles of lush forest, boardwalks and huge skunk cabbage, we arrived at Moose Meadows.



This was a fantastic spot, with many usual and not so usual flowers, including black lily.



The littlest birds sing the prettiest songs, and they have no shortage of pine cones to feast on.



From here the trail continues, sometimes along the beach and sometimes in the forest.



The trail guide said we'd look across at the Davidson Glacier, but it neglected to mention that it swept right down to the water. Pretty spectacular.



We could also see the Rainbow Glacier as the clouds lifted a bit on our return trip.



Want to improve your opinion of BC Ferries? Try Alaska State Ferries. What a gong show. Not only is the reservation system a nightmare and you have to provide the full name and date of birth of everyone travelling, but how is it possible to take over 60 minutes to load and unload about 60 vehicles?

We got into Skagway, which is a very neat place, in the early afternoon. The hostel there is highly recommended - very clean, and has some private rooms for a reasonable price if you don't want to bunk it.



We got lucky, and Sunday was one of the very few days a year when there were no cruise ships docked. So we got a private walking tour with a ranger. Very interesting - all the buildings in Skagway are original, no fakes.



This is the front and back of the longest false fronted building in the world.



This is the original building in Skagway - we got to look inside, which normally we wouldn't if the place was overrun with cruiseshippers.



Then we headed out for Whitehorse and our flight back. The Southern Lakes are really pretty.



Photo ops abruptly stopped at this point, when I realized that I had forgotten to gas up in Skagway. Oh well, I thought, there will be gas in Carcross. Unfortunately there was a gas station, but it had no gas. We finally got to the outskirts of Whitehorse and pulled into a gas station running on fumes. The tank holds 40 litres - I filled it with 39.6 litres. Oops.

All in all, a great trip.

Edited by - susied on 07/04/2012 7:41 PM

icevixen
Intermediate Member


Too close to the city, BC
Canada

796 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  7:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great pics! Nice to see a few grizzlies as well. Looks like you had wonderful weather too.

I love that area so much... your pics are making me itch to go back up there again!
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exscape
Advanced Member

Outdoors addicted flyfishing, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking car crooner and resident motormouth

Da'Wack, BC
Canada

5378 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  7:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow great report susied. We're heading back next week. Will not have as much lovely time to spend in Kluane but a weekend visit is in the cards. What a great overview of some of the options in the area.

xj6response
Junior Member


Sunshine Coast, BC
Canada

257 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  8:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One word .... Magnificent

Great shots. what a trip that must have been. I spent a fair bit of time, some 20+ years ago, working out of Atlin, down into the Taku, Inklin, Nakina and Whiting rivers on the Canada side of Juneau, AK. Very similar country and a landscape that one cannot forget.

Dragged my sorry butt into Haines and Skagway a few times. We flew into Skagway and the US customs guy arrived in a pickup truck, wearing a fur hat and chewing tobacco. That was well before 9/11 and the need to go through all the rigamarole you do now.

many thanks for your report, enjoyed it a great deal.
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solo75
Intermediate Member


Campbell River, BC
Canada

780 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  8:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
What a great trip. I sure miss Yukon and Alaska; haven't been there in years.

susied
Junior Member


Powell River, BC
385 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  8:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I put this in the wrong forum ... do you know how I can move it to TRs - Other Regions?
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exscape
Advanced Member

Outdoors addicted flyfishing, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking car crooner and resident motormouth

Da'Wack, BC
Canada

5378 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  8:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Darren might be able to do it, failing that you could email Jim. Or go into edit, copy the entire report -repost to Trip reports, come back and delete and/or just add a link to the report page so the comments make sense..
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darren
Administrator

Best grilled cheese maker ever

Whitehorse, YUKON
Canada

2159 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  9:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wonderful TR.

A place I hope to see more of very soon.
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Aqua Terra
Advanced Member

canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru

Surrey Hole, BC
Canada

6868 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  9:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow. nice

no quitting
Advanced Member


Powell River, bc
Canada

2610 Posts

 Posted - 07/04/2012 :  9:27 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've been waiting for this one!! Just got back from riding my bike around Inland and got your email. OMG!!!!! WOW!!!! That's AWESOME!!!!!!!!!! So glad it was an amazing trip :) Where do I start??? With the Grizzlies of course!!! THAT'S SO COOL!!!! Awwwwwwwwww!!!!!! That mom and cubs is too precious for words!!! The flowers,the scenery,it all looks so increadible :) Maybe I'll have to put this on the never ending list. I love that shot of you showing your joy at the glacier :) We need to take that paddle so you can tell me stories :)
Very cool!!

sixer
Junior Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

278 Posts

 Posted - 07/05/2012 :  10:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That report just made my day-what fabulous photos. Thanks for sharing them, what a gorgeous place!
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Rented Mule
Advanced Member

Utah's canyon trekking,deck chair packing desert explorer who dreams of visiting Canada someday


3988 Posts

 Posted - 07/06/2012 :  3:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice!! What a place! Great trip report, too. thanks for the effort and amazing pictures. Looks gloomy. But, right now with 74 days of no rain, gloomy sounds great.
I've never seen a grizzly bear. even in a zoo. Moose, singing birds, gold in the rivers,
great hiking companions and good food...ferfect getaway. A bit extreme for me. I would go the guide route having never been exposed to anything quite like that before. wow.

Candy Sack
Intermediate Member


over the hills and far away
Canada

725 Posts

 Posted - 07/10/2012 :  10:27 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very very nice.... Can't wait to get back there. Must have had a lot of sunlight! That's a trip to remember.

KARVITK
Advanced Member

Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards

Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada

13592 Posts

 Posted - 07/10/2012 :  12:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
A beautiful set of photos of great variety and interest; love your shots of the bears, flowers, and interesting rock formations. Cool too the lay of the land.

K

Pete
Junior Member


Stanwood, Washington
USA

313 Posts

 Posted - 07/10/2012 :  2:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
How cool, it really makes me want to start planning another trip up there myself.
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