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Calgary, Alberta
Andorra
3791 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 1:03 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by eco_matt
(athough I wish we could avoid the opinionated nature of these threads, as it's annoying to have to sort through opinion to find facts).
Anyone who tells you that they can tell you just the facts with no opinion in it is lying. There's opinion in any aspect of what to learn or how to learn or what works best and you're far better getting a survey of opinions on the fact that just one person who claims his opinion is fact only.
quote:
Originally posted by Cherry Pirate
quote:
Originally posted by Steventy
Lots of options for you to think about.
- Buy an ice-axe and helmet and develop your skills with that tool in safe areas. Don't practice with your ice-axe alone because it's pointy.
Do you mean find ice and climb with it or simply find a small cliff and get a feel for dry tooling?
I suspect he might have been meaning a mountaineering axe rather than a climbing one, and walking with it and self-arresting. General mountaineering skills rather than ice climbing.
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Calgary, Alberta
Andorra
3791 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 1:09 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Cherry Pirate
Good god do I hate my this name though. There was a period of 3 months in 2010 where "cherry pirate" seemed like a great idea and that happened to be when I signed up for this board. My name is Rory, should anyone have a good memory. I have not now, or ever been, a counterfeiter of cherries.
I believe that if you email Jim, he can change your name for you. |
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Maple Ridge, BC
Canada
344 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 1:26 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Rachelo
I suspect he might have been meaning a mountaineering axe rather than a climbing one, and walking with it and self-arresting. General mountaineering skills rather than ice climbing.
Ah, okay that makes more sense. So he's saying I should buy an ice axe and go fall in the snow with a friend? This sounds like possibly the easiest thing anyone has ever suggested I do for anything.
Anybody take issue with the techniques discussed in this video? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LM3xLshmNnk If not then I'll just buy an ice axe and find some snow... I think the snow might be elusive at the moment though. |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1008 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 1:34 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
That's not to say I'm not concerned about improving, but how I measure my progress is different now. Truthfully, it's actually more satisfying in many ways.
Exactly. I'm the same. The process of progress is more important than some goal I'm progressing towards. I'm interested in a number of things currently: Skiing, Climbing, Mountaineering. I might add kayaking in the future. I'm starting to dabble in DH MTB atm also.
I'm not locked in to devoting my time to achieving a goal in any area. There are milestones I'd like to pass sure, but if I'm taken in another direction I'm willing to go with it.
It's actually funny, Jason Kruk just posted up a link about this idea of the process being more important than the goal less than an hour ago on his FB.
Linking to a podcast called "Synchronicity" no less...
http://feeds.feedburner.com/Citr--Synchronicity
quote:
Originally posted by Cherry Pirate
Do you mean find ice and climb with it or simply find a small cliff and get a feel for dry tooling?
Most people purchase Ice Axes for self-belay and self-arrest on steep snow/ice slopes, as well as a balancing aid. You can climb with them on steep snow but really you'd be looking more into Ice Tools for dry-tooling and ice climbing. |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 6:37 PM
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Thing is, if you really want to free solo 5.15, then you are gonna have to give up just about everything else in your life to achieve that goal.
But, I do agree with you, for me, improving, even a little bit each year is important. I don't want to be spinning my wheels for years at the same grade. Many people, however, seem much less goal driven and are happy to bumble along at the same level year after year. |
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 11:49 PM
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Originally posted by Candy Sack
I just saw bacon flying out my window.... For once I agree with DCIPHER.
For once you're thinking rationally and/or not intentionally trolling! ;-) |
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 06/29/2012 : 11:54 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Cherry Pirate
Hahaha, if only it were just about gall I would have done it ages ago. Good god do I hate my this name though. There was a period of 3 months in 2010 where "cherry pirate" seemed like a great idea and that happened to be when I signed up for this board. My name is Rory, should anyone have a good memory. I have not now, or ever been, a counterfeiter of cherries.
LOL. I've always found the all-caps in my name slightly irritating....but not enough to do anything about it. Of course...that's how it became all-caps in the first place, caps lock was on, and I didn't bother to do anything about it!
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Kamloops, B.C.
Canada
157 Posts |
Posted - 06/30/2012 : 03:21 AM
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| Since the topic of ice axes is going, if were to get one for ski touring, glacier travel type of use. An ice axe with an adze would be a good choice? How long? since I will be skiing with it. Do I need two? Any and all wisdom is appreciated |
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Kamloops, B.C.
Canada
157 Posts |
Posted - 06/30/2012 : 03:36 AM
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| I'm not sure I understand dry tooling, is it just to train for ice climbing. |
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Maple Ridge, BC
Canada
344 Posts |
Posted - 06/30/2012 : 11:32 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by omegarun
I'm not sure I understand dry tooling, is it just to train for ice climbing.
No it's for mixed climbing. This video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Vx7GKAUDC0&feature=fvst , shows a good example of its use. A couple minutes in, he uses his tool on the granite (? the alps are granite right?) instead of ungloving or anything. |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
216 Posts |
Posted - 07/14/2012 : 12:23 PM
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On the matter of how to approach climbing I ultimately do it because I just love being out there, but I also try to learn as much as I can every time I head out. Whether it's about getting a better feel for my own capabilities and limits, or how to "solve" certain terrain challenges, or simply getting a better sense for the geography of a region, I try to pick up what I can. It's not a formal process by any means, but it helps me feel more comfortable and confident for the next time. I can motor through terrain that would have made me nervous a year ago, not because I'm "better" athletically, but simply because I'm surer in my decision making. All of this goes back to reinforcing my ability to enjoy the experience.
Sure I have goals for some larger/more challenging peaks that I'm working towards, but I haven't set any kind of timeline for it. I think it would have been a real mistake for me to say to myself: "I need to be able to do Chephren by the end of the summer". With that added element of pressure, I could come up to a sketchy looking route up a mountain and rationalize doing it by saying: "I need to be able to do this in order to be able to...". Not a good situation, and something that would take away from my core reason for being there (for the enjoyment of it). I'll get to those peaks when I'm ready, and I'll be having a lot of fun in the meantime.
Anyway, I went through Yamnuska's introductory mountaineering program over the weekend and have posted about my experiences here on the site. I know a few people recoiled a bit from the cost (a little under $600), but I defy you to find 3 full days of professional instruction in anything that costs significantly less.
It's a matter of perspective I suppose, but the technology vendors I deal with will charge $1,200 for two days of instruction led by a newby recruit in a classroom of 12 people. I spent three days in group ratios of 1:3 and 1:4 with guides who had climbed Everest (back when that really meant something) and other major peaks around the globe, and could lead such expeditions again tomorrow. To me it was worth every penny.
Like a few of you, I started out reading Freedom of the Hills (excellent book, my copy's still littered with bookmarks) and YouTube videos. While that was great to understand the purpose, importance, and general mechanics of self-arrest and general ice axe use (does it irk anyone else that the book always excludes the "e" from axe?), and gave me a solid head start on the others in my group, it's not the same as demonstrating those skills before someone who's really experienced and can provide suggestions on how you can improve.
As with a gym exercise, sometimes you'll think you're mimicking something perfectly until a trainer points out issues with your stance and the motion you were performing. The books and videos allowed me to pick up self-arrest very quickly, but a tendency of mine to roll when self-arresting on one side or to swing my legs around the wrong way while sliding on my back are two things that I never would have been conscious of without the benefit of an experienced observer. I never failed to stop myself on Parker's Ridge, but those little mistakes I didn't know I was making could matter a lot on a real slope. |
Edited by - Arcturus on 07/14/2012 12:24 PM |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3505 Posts |
Posted - 07/14/2012 : 12:57 PM
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Dood, you were out with Barry Blanchard. He hasn't submitted the Big E, but that means nothing. He was part of the crew that INVENTED modern hard alpine climbing and his name is on some of the most outrageous FA's of all time. The thing that slays me about Barry and those old bold buggers is how humble they are. Many people that have Barry guide them for intro course have no idea that of what he's done, and he never lets on. I've seen him get quite blushed when someone in camp gushes about his accomplishments.
We can thank Everest for Barry's alpine climbing. He was there in 86 when Sharon Wood summitted, and it was the politics on that trip that convinced him to change how things were being done. |
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
216 Posts |
Posted - 07/14/2012 : 1:31 PM
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| I apologize if I didn't articulate or present my idea well there. My point was simply that it was a privilege to be out with and learning from people of such talent and experience. |
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What do I need to climb?
