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Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
26 Posts |
Posted - 06/04/2012 : 8:44 PM
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Sumas mountain is in my backyard and I've hiked it from the western trailhead on Upper Sumas, but I'd always wanted to do it from the eastern trailhead. I got a fairly late start at 11:30, but I'd hiked the first hour or so from Quadling Rd. about 5 years before, so I knew where to find the start. My other research consisted of reading most of Wildman's report from Feb. 2009 (http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=29683) and printing out his maps (thanks, Wildman!).
The eastern trailhead is across the dam from the Barrowtown pump station. There's a small parking area (holds maybe 3 cars) if you turn left after crossing the dam. The original trailhead has been quarried away (I think more just to discourage people from using the trail, rather than to get the rock) so you have to scramble up the bank to the left of the quarried area past the "trail closed" sign to get to the trail.

The trail then switchbacks a couple of times, but ends where quarrying has again erased it. When I was there 5 years before, the trail still skirted just to the north of the active quarry, but now it appears to be completely gone. Seeing a pink-taped route, I headed uphill, thinking it must be the detour around the quarry. The route was pretty well flagged, and I kept following it. After about an hour, I came to 2 conclusions: 1--this wasn't the route around the top of the quarry, and 2--whoever flagged this route was playing some kind of sick joke. It wasn't particularly hard to find the flags, because I just had to look straight up. At two points the route opened out onto small lookouts, and it was apparent that I was still directly above the dam and headed straight up for Sumas peak along the fall line. A few of the flags were stamped with "falling area boundary" so they might be marking the regional park boundary. After about 3 hours, the route met up with the trail down from Sumas peak to the eastern valley viewpoint. I checked out the viewpoint and then headed up towards the peak.
I'd decided on the way up that I was NOT going down the same way (too steep) so I hurried down the trail to Chadsea lake, intending to pick up the true eastern approach trail (part of the Centennial trail) where it meets the main trail on the east side of the lake.
It was just after 4 when I reached the trail intersection at the lake, and as I didn't wish to repeat the dramatic late-night story told by Wildman in his 2009 report, I had a quick snack and then continued on down the trail marked by the aluminum "Quadling Road" sign.

I didn't know what to expect, as reports had mentioned the trail was disused and hard to find, but the upper part is well marked with red metal squares and some of the Centennial trail signs.

I made good time for the first hour or so and had no problem finding the trail. It looked as if someone had hiked it not long before. Much of this portion follows old logging roads as it heads eastward before rounding the eastern end of the mountain. The roads are wide and smooth--easy, pleasant walking.

It's where the trail passes though areas that must have been cleared in the past and not replanted that it gets hard to follow. Big leaf maples have grown up and the understory consists of an abundance of ferns, salmonberry, and (joy) stinging nettles. In several areas sizable maples have fallen over the trail and detours are necessary. That said, the footbed is still visible in most areas, and I was actually able to find my way. I had a roll of flagging tape handy, and placed a few flags where the trail was particularly hard to follow.
IMO, it's a shame this trail is slowly disappearing. I was surprised (and delighted) to find that it went through small groves of old-grown Douglas firs, and there's even a live cedar "hollow tree." Not as big as the one in Stanley Park, but hey, this one didn't have to be propped up at a cost of $200000 or so, and it's still alive! 

Some time later I came to the washed-out creek crossing described (and videoed) by Wildman. I noticed an earlier report talked about a waterfall, and since I didn't see one, I wondered if maybe the waterfall had been washed out.
Anyway, I continued on, tying the odd flag, scraping the moss away from the metal markers, and doing some minor trail clearing, until I neared the east side of the quarry area and found this sign:

I have to admit, I didn't bother calling the number. I noticed a double-flagged route off downhill to my left at this point, so followed it for awhile thinking it might offer a good bypass route. The flags seemed to end after a short distance though, and given my earlier experience with flagged routes, I abandoned it and went back uphill to the trail. It was about 7 pm at this point and starting to get a bit gloomy under the canopy, and not far past the sign I lost the trail. I continued westward, being careful not to get too low, and stayed alert for sudden dropoffs. In about 15 minutes or so I saw a large coil of cable marking the top of the quarry. I headed well above it before continuing eastward. There may be a flagged route above the quarry, but I never found it. I bushwacked along the top of the quarry and down the other side, then along the old trail switchbacks. I arrived back at the car at 8:17 pm, a bit muddy, scratched up, and nettle-stung, but happy.
Thanks to Lucy S., a fellow Chilliwack Outdoor Club member, for being my safety contact during this solo recce. Cell phone reception was good the whole time, so I "reported in" a few times to let her know how I was doing.
As I mentioned earlier, I hate to see this route abandoned. I don't know the history, but it appears that the eastern start of the trail isn't in the park. I guess that may be why the quarry was able to destroy it with no repercussions. Sumas mountain is vulnerable to development, and I wonder, with no one hiking that side of the mountain to voice strong opposition, how long will the area be preserved as a park?
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Edited by - lisa on 06/05/2012 10:48 AM
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Mission, bc Canada
151 Posts |
Posted - 06/04/2012 : 8:54 PM
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Good Info. I have been wondering about the east side trail and if there was much left of it
I notices a month ago when I just did the chadsey lake loop that there has been a bit of money invested in the area. new parking lot on the west side with signs designating mtn bike trails aswell as up further there was a bit of landscape work going on at one of the looksouts. maybe making it into a picnic area.
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     Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
13469 Posts |
Posted - 06/04/2012 : 11:32 PM
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I read your report with particular interest. I was with Wally (Wildman) that day on his trip, I recall returning ahead of him return and got down just before darkness set it, making my way back almost by the feel of the ground under my feet for those last few switchbacks. You do not want to be caught out late without a light...
Your return was so much like the one I followed.
K |
Edited by - KARVITK on 06/04/2012 11:42 PM |
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     Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3838 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 01:46 AM
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You did a good trip through there albeit must have been tough going in spots on that hill going around the quarry and up the mountain, WOW. 
I had thought a corner of the park reached down to the road where the trail came out but unfortunately there are a couple of claim lots there which is what they are blasting out now. Those ribbons you followed up are most likely the boundary line of those leases for the quarry and stopped where the quarry will end. On the north east side of that quarry where the fence is separating them from the neighbouring property I was hoping there is a easement. There is parking on the right side of the road at the gate which the guard told me belongs to no one and is part of the dyke.
I know that mining claims have no easement and they can rip the ground up right to any other property line. The property that borders the quarry on the NE side is classed as, "limited use", so I have been wondering if a person parked on the dyke right of way property and went through the gate that says no trespassing and following the chain link fence at the NE border of the quarry up the hill would that be classed as easement property and not really trespassing and then it would not be to far to get to meet up with the original trail from that route.
So if there is easement along the fence or the property line north and NE of the quarry then the maps below could be alternate routes and parking spot. The red lines on the google map are proposed routes. The aqua lines on the maps are the same proposed route.
You can see it is not that far from the big red and aqua dots, proposed parking area, to the green area that is Sumas Mountain Regional Park.  |
Edited by - Wildman on 06/05/2012 01:51 AM |
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Campbell River, BC Canada
761 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 05:58 AM
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| It's too bad that this route was destroyed by the quarry as I enjoyed hiking past the big trees and waterfall. |
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Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
26 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 10:56 AM
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quote: Originally posted by Wildman
The property that borders the quarry on the NE side is classed as, "limited use", so I have been wondering if a person parked on the dyke right of way property and went through the gate that says no trespassing and following the chain link fence at the NE border of the quarry up the hill would that be classed as easement property and not really trespassing and then it would not be to far to get to meet up with the original trail from that route.
Sounds like a great idea to me! If you ever want to head up there and scout it out (maybe with a roll of flagging tape), let me know. That might be where the double flags I started to follow were heading, but after about three sets of tape they disappeared. |
Edited by - lisa on 06/05/2012 11:00 AM |
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8 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 2:11 PM
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I tried to hike this a few weeks ago on a Saturday and the foreman at the quarry came after me blowing his horn and yelling at me to come back down as I was trespassing. I only made it to the top of the blasting area and came back down.
The guy was okay after I came back down but was upset that I ignored the signs. Did not attempt it again that day and just went to Dewdney Peak. Too bad. |
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Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
26 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 5:11 PM
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quote: Originally posted by DogOne
I tried to hike this a few weeks ago on a Saturday and the foreman at the quarry came after me blowing his horn and yelling at me to come back down as I was trespassing. I only made it to the top of the blasting area and came back down.
The guy was okay after I came back down but was upset that I ignored the signs. Did not attempt it again that day and just went to Dewdney Peak. Too bad.
That's too bad. There didn't seem to be anyone around when I was there on a Sunday. I didn't actually pass any signs that said "No Trespassing." Just one that said the trail was closed, and the one saying to call about blasting. |
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Vancouver
1820 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 6:48 PM
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We hiked this on the May long weekend. Something that was very useful, was the trail track that comes in the Northwest Trails file from switchbacks.com.
We went up parallel to the west edge of the quarry, then popped out into the clearing at the top of the quarry. There's a helicopter pad there, and it looks like there's quite a bit of activity there. You can then get onto a well-constructed trail that traverses the top of the quarry. It looks like it was built for some sort of plumbing setup. Quite a view from it.
On the east side of the quarry, whenever we frequently lost the trail, we were able to find it again using the track on my gps. Yes, this is very nasty going, and you don't want to take anyone who is new to hiking. Now and then you'll run into flagging for logging.
It seems this trail was deliberately located to route hikers past some very large trees, so that's one additional attraction - while the trees are still there.
Due to an incredibly slow party in very difficult terrain, we only reached the point where the trail swings around the east end of Sumas Mt., where there is a nice place with a view to have lunch.
On the way down, in an attempt to avoid the difficult steep descent west of the quarry, we observed the relatively gentle contours to the east of the quarry, and started down a dry and rocky streambed. What we found was that the map is incorrect because the bottom of the slope has been blasted away, leaving what amounts to an overgrown cliff. So we had to retrace our steps and go back across the top of the quarry.
It seems incredibly uncivilized that a rock blasting business can destroy a section of the Trans-Canada Trail, and no officials seem to care about it.
Robin Tivy checked with the people who run the quarry, and they say they're trying to establish a trail that would start east of the quarry and climb to the original trail. But there are various land jurisdiction issues in the way.
I'd suggest staying away from this place when the blasting company is working. Oh, and something else: the soundscape is a continuous roar of traffic from the highway. In fact, you might want to stay away from this route completely.
 Clambering across a stream, east of the quarry
 Trans Canada Trail goes between two large trees
View of the confluence of Fraser and Vedder Rivers
Coming back down the trail
View from the top of the quarry
 Trail across top of quarry |
Edited by - sgRant on 06/05/2012 6:53 PM |
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Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
26 Posts |
Posted - 06/05/2012 : 9:50 PM
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| I agree sgRant--this is not a trail for casual hikers--those kids in the picture are very game! Also agree that traffic can be heard all the way along the south side of the mountain, but for me the big trees and the proximity to home make up for that. I read in another report that the trail along the top of the quarry wasn't very stable, but it looks ok in your picture. |
Edited by - lisa on 06/05/2012 9:54 PM |
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Vancouver
1820 Posts |
Posted - 06/06/2012 : 12:01 AM
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quote: Originally posted by lisa
I agree sgRant--this is not a trail for casual hikers--those kids in the picture are very game! Also agree that traffic can be heard all the way along the south side of the mountain, but for me the big trees and the proximity to home make up for that. I read in another report that the trail along the top of the quarry wasn't very stable, but it looks ok in your picture.
The trail across the top of the quarry has a plastic pipe buried under it, so it should be meant to be stable. It's not very long, but it's useful and has a very exposed view.
Of the 8 people in our party, only 4 made it to the lookout. We had only a few hours, and more than used them up. Like you, we ran into far too much stinging nettle. Hurt for days.
I recall one way we were able to follow much of the trail was to feel for a solid footbed underfoot. The deadfall across the trail was a huge nuisance.
It will help people trying to follow the trail to know that it used to cross where the quarry is now. So it is lower than the top of the quarry on both the east and west sides of the quarry. It can be located adjacent to the quarry on the west side, but it was about 400m beyond the quarry on the east side before we found it. Some people were traversing higher, while it was necessary to go downhill to find the trail. |
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Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
26 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 10:17 AM
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On a positive note, I just came across this article online: http://www.abbynews.com/news/154159125.html
I like the part that says "...the new partnerships will expand opportunities for trails..."
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Mission, bc Canada
151 Posts |
Posted - 06/07/2012 : 10:44 AM
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| Excellent, this explains all the uprgrading and such on the west side. |
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     Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3838 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 12:58 AM
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I went there to see what changes and access to the trail there maybe and to talk to the foreman. A couple of years ago I talked to the guard and he told me the owner lived in England and the foreman ran the quarry for the owner.
The guard also told me that there was talk about joining with the landowner down the road and buying out the municipal quarry between them so that they would have one very large quarry. If the City Of Abbotsford exercised load limits and access to the dam bridge road then they planned to build a bridge across the Sumas River on Quadling’s property who he was planning to amalgamate partnerships with.
The first thing I saw when I crossed the dam was a sign saying welcome to Quadling’s Rock Quarry, or something close to that. It was named Sumas Rock Products before. Seems like the guard was right and they formed a partnership and renamed the quarry. I also noticed another bridge section merging off the south west side of the dam bridge road I never noticed before. So I don’t know if they went into partnership or it changed hands completely.
I drove by the quarry and could not see the foreman any where and past it there is now a treatment plant and a house is now built by the side of the river just past the plant. Some one was at the plant and I planned to talk to him on my way back.
Someone in a pickup truck was driving out from the house yard and it looked like he had a dog in the cab with him. Just past the house there is a gate on the left side of the road with a locked chain on it. I kept going down the road and came to the gate that said no trespassing and could drive no farther. That was odd because it seemed to me as I remember this gate was just at the end of the quarry before where the treatment plant is now not a half of a kilometer past like it is now.
Puzzled I turned around and when I got back to the treatment plant the gate was locked and that person was gone so I drove to the City Quarry. Just before it is one place where Sumas Regional Park meets Quadling Road and could be access to the trail from it without trespassing any where as long as a person climbs high enough and goes above and around the quarry leases.
The map below shows the spots where the park meets the road. 1 is some where from around the house to the gate that says no trespassing. 2 is just NE of the City Quarry. 3 is on Quadling’s property around his no trespassing sign gate. 
This map below shows where the city quarry and Sumas (New Quadling) quarry is. North of the new Quadling quarry is the treatment plant on that small lot and just past it on the right side of the road is the house. Just past the house on the left side of the road is the locked gate with chain. Much farther down is the gate that says no trespassing.

Then I drove back and crossed over the Dam and hiked down the dyke to get a better view of the mountain from that aspect. When on the dyke I met a local walking his dog. He said the people that live around there have been trying to stop the quarry and the trucks for a long time without success. I told him I just wanted some where to access the trail.
I also asked him how they managed to build a house in a limited use designated area. He said the property was listed for sale and he is sure the quarry people bought the property and are using some kind of loop hole to build the house maybe calling it an office for the quarry. 
This map below shows that area only to be developed by permit so I don't know how the property got to be up for sale as that local said unless he made a mistake. 
I can see why the restrictions are in place for this area because of the possible archaeological potential. 
That local also said he has been seeing more and more activity by what appear to be government inspectors so that may be linked to the article in the Abby News you posted or because of the sensitive species restrictions just above the quarry for red listed species. I doubt those species are still hanging around there now after the noise from the blasting.  There may also have been inspectors for that platform and water hose/pipe that can be clearly seen and the road and trail leading to it through the quarry that sgRant is referring to.
The local I was talking to also told me he talked to the land?/lease?/property? owner which has rights to that property past the no trespassing gate which is past the quarry and the house heading north east. He said that guy is waiting until he retires and plans to put a trailer park there for income during his retirement. I don't know how all this can be done down there when there is no dyke and can be flooded during any spring flood high water. 
I drove back to that chain locked gate just past the house which does not have a no trespassing sign on it and walked in there where it is cleared. There is a small little fence marking the area for something and there is some empty fuel barrels with a wooden device put on top of the barrels. It looks like it may be flat marsh land from the hillside run off which would be about 3 hundred meters to cross to get to the hillside and access to the park and trail from there. Even though this map below does suggest a hazard area I don't think a well placed route through it would be a concern since this map below refers more to possible small rock slides and small creek washouts as observed in places that the trail already passes through. 
When I went off route at night and came down into the quarry as shown in my GPS track in my report a couple of years ago with Karl the route I came down was great until just before entering the quarry because where they blasted and created a cliff. Going around that was not bad even at night so I think the area north and NE of the quarry is not that bad to access the trail from. I looked for the guard and could not see him. I knocked on his trailer and got no response so I don’t think he is around and that may have been him driving away with the dog in the truck.
Lisa I would be more than happy to scout that area out with you but my weekend days off are Tuesdays and Wednesdays so unless you can get away on one of those days I can't plan a trip there with you.
On a side note: Hedda and I scouted out that housing development area on the west side of the mountain a couple of months ago and talked to the developer there. Once the housing development is built there a permanent gate to that subdivision will be put up at the end of Brown Road. But there may be a way around it by the old logging road above the housing development.
I explained to the developer that the previous Director of Sumas Mountain Area H made a proposal agreement with the landowner that a corridor was to be put in place to access the trail through there for the locals and others wishing to hike it and not have to cross that steep gully from Lower Sumas Mountain Road.
To access the logging road above the subdivision you have to drive up Taggert Road past the first main gate and there is a fork left in the road that used to go to an old rusty open gate which is the logging road that passes along the upper part of the development to the trail. Directions are in this report link below in the section labeled, "Part Four". http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=17640
All the maps, data and most information I posted above was compiled by me back in 2006/2007 and since then there is no more Fraser Valley Regional District Area H. The City of Abbotsford decided it wanted the area and just took it over even though the residents fought against it. What changes are now in place I have no idea. I just hope the City Of Abbotsford manages this area in a sensible way for the betterments of both development and recreation especially it's heritage trails like Hope is doing.
So far Sumas Mountain Regional Park is still part of the FVRD. Hopefully Metro Vancouver and Abbotsford have it's best interests in mind and not developers interests to encroach on the parks boundaries.
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Abbotsford, BC Canada
723 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 10:42 AM
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Wally, great job of dredging up all these maps, scouting out conditions and providing detailed background information!
The problem, as has been pointed out, is the multi-jurisdictional quagmire. I wish I could be more optimistic, but I am not convinced that the "new" partnership between CFRD and GVRD for managing the Sumas Mountain Regional Park will lead to tangible results for the eastern part of the park in the near future, mainly because of the involvement of numerous other agencies. So instead, efforts will be focused on the western flank of the mountain where the issues are far less complex.
Btw, have you been able to find out anything more about the proposed gravel resource plan which had the potential to drastically alter the mountain?
Hedda
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     Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
13469 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 12:15 PM
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Great work Wally. Thanks for updating us.
K |
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Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
26 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 12:33 PM
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Yes, thanks Wally, for all those great maps. Interesting developments on that southeast side of the mountain. I'll have to check out that potential access point through the gate without the no trespassing sign sometime. Unfortunately I'm limited to weekends. Amazing what you find on the web. I came across this document, which looks like an assessment of some financial proposal about the quarry: http://www.g-forcegroup.ca/img/file/Pumptown/Trustee%20update%20to%20original%20report%20June%2024%20FINAL.pdf
The interesting part is on page 3, note 2, which says "In light of the Phantom Orchid environmental issue, McElhanney estimated that the property has 3.4 m tonnes of available material to extract. Management is of the opinion it can negotiate a "work around" with the Ministry of the Environment to satisfy its concerns with Pumptown ultimately being able to harveest a greater volume of rock."
That was back in 2009, so who knows if the orchids, or as you say any red-listed species, are still in the vicinity. |
Edited by - lisa on 06/08/2012 12:47 PM |
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abbotsford, B.C Canada
12 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 8:30 PM
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| I live close by and never knew all this information, so thankyou! I am so worried that the mountain will eventually look like Whatcom! Its a beauty to hike and should be left alone. I do know the residents have fought for years to stop the quarry but to no avail. Sad! Loved reading all the posts. Stolo may need to step in!! |
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Vancouver
1820 Posts |
Posted - 06/08/2012 : 9:43 PM
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| I add my thanks to Wildman for his work on this matter. That's a whole lot of hours of research etc., when anyone could just sit back and do nothing. |
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     Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3838 Posts |
Posted - 06/09/2012 : 09:06 AM
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Thank you every one and a big thanks for Lisa for starting this report so I could add my info to it.
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chilliwack, bc Canada
126 Posts |
Posted - 06/10/2012 : 08:07 AM
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The foreman gave me heck a couple of years ago for using the bushwack trail to the west of the quarry. He said that they were going to build a trailhead to the east of the quarry shortly......well that never happened.
Has anyone ever tried hiking the northeast ridge of Sumas Mountain up to Chadsey Lake? It looks doable in my head. |
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