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 British Columbia
 Mt Rexford - 1st Asc. North Face Couloir
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Wildman
Advanced Member

Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller


3838 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  12:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Way to go you guys.
Good research and test runs usually end up in success.

Great pictures and they tell it well.

Congrats!

Ya, that Coulor is hard to see but some of it can be seen from Corriveau but not enough to suggest a good ascent line.


Edited by - Wildman on 05/30/2012 01:01 AM

craigS
Junior Member


West Vancouver, B.C.
Canada

288 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  08:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Congratulations. Very impressive!

social climber
Intermediate Member

Fast Movin, litigatin, adventure seekin, clothin deprived trail buster

Port Moody, B.C.
Canada

589 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  10:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow - what an accomplishment, from start to finish. Congratulations on the first ascent!
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Dru
Mountain Grammar Police

Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids

Climbing, a mountain
Canada

∞ Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  11:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I should point out that this is a pretty easy route technically. The climbing cruxes consisted of short sections of 65 degree snow. Most of the route was 50 degrees or less. The approach is long and the route is short. That said, in the end I'm glad I didn't solo it on my earlier attempts because it was handy to have two ropes along for the second rappel.

mick range
Extreme Hoser

Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass

AKA

Dances with Trees

Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada

13039 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  1:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hell, not too shabby for an "out of shape" guy!
Nice report, Dru, a good tale with all the relevant details

DeanP
New Member



80 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  5:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dru

I should point out that this is a pretty easy route technically. The climbing cruxes consisted of short sections of 65 degree snow. Most of the route was 50 degrees or less. The approach is long and the route is short. That said, in the end I'm glad I didn't solo it on my earlier attempts because it was handy to have two ropes along for the second rappel.



Thanks for the information,Dru.
I guess this can be easily soloed, except for carrying two ropes.
I might try this.

I saw the Slesse TR last week but I had already plan.

Thanks again.
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Dru
Mountain Grammar Police

Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids

Climbing, a mountain
Canada

∞ Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  7:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
For the solo I would say the main problem is the falling stuff. On our first pitch, which was pretty narrow, one was unavoidably exposed to falling debris from above. We mostly got tapped by small pieces of ice, but if something big came down you'd have nowhere to hide from it, and it was for this reason, as much as any, that we roped up.
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AcesHigh
Advanced Member


Hope, BC
Canada

7095 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  8:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great report dude! Rexford is an awesome looking place from all the photos and reports I've seen. Very unique place like its big brother the fang across the valley.

KISBOO
Junior Member


Vancouver
349 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  9:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice one! Thanks for the report!
It makes me think of winter ascent on the Edge from white dyke. But very different rock feature though.

Edited by - KISBOO on 05/30/2012 9:37 PM

MatthewBaldwin
Intermediate Member


Burnaby, BC
Canada

667 Posts

 Posted - 05/30/2012 :  10:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow nice job!
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Elkaholic
Senior Member


Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada

1087 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  08:29 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great to see Max still doing FA's in this area.

leimrod
Senior Member


Squamish, British Columbia
Canada

1007 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  09:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Seriously awesome ascent and great day for it.

Where's the GoPro video from it? I spot a teletubby.

Mtraslin
Intermediate Member


north vancouver, british columbia
Canada

605 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  11:24 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great! Thanks for sharing!

Spectrum
Intermediate Member


Surrey, BC
Canada

948 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  11:47 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Very nice!

Springbow
Junior Member



357 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  12:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Awesome! Looks like a really nice line. Congrats on the FA!
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simonc
Advanced Member

Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour


3996 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  1:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well written report Dru. Great climb.

Can you update the status of Nesakwatch FSR, any more logging going on or being planned?
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Dru
Mountain Grammar Police

Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids

Climbing, a mountain
Canada

∞ Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  1:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nesakwatch FSR is a little rough but driveable all the way to the Rexdford trailhead and beyond with a good 4x4. They did a bunch of logging over the winter and fixed up the road afterwards. I think there might be one more sale at the back end that would be logged this summer, and the road will probably get deactivated in the fall. MoF Chilliwack would be able to tell you more.
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AcesHigh
Advanced Member


Hope, BC
Canada

7095 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  4:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is a good question for Dr Dru... How does one know for sure they are the first ascent on a mountain or route? Where is the information documented? Does one just "Google" if anyone else climbed that route? If you can't find it in google, you claim that prize by posting it?
Just curious...

J Mace
Senior Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

1009 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  4:57 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
How does one know for sure they are the first ascent on a mountain or route?


Easy, you ask Drew.

He even makes those dial up sounds before he spits out the answer

mad owl woman
Advanced Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

2659 Posts

 Posted - 05/31/2012 :  5:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well done, and a well-told story to boot!
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