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 Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
3996 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 09:50 AM
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Not doing this trip the week before with The Camel et al motivated me to set out reasonably early the following Saturday to try it by myself. I was tossing around a couple of ideas for a place to go but after quick chats with Coastal Climber and The Camel (thanks for a couple of pointers) a couple of days before - it was an easy decision. Garibaldi is one large mountain that I've viewed from many directions atop other peaks over the past 15 years and the desire to climb it has always been there.
Not an really early start but I was parked at near km 7.5 (990m) on the Cheekye FSR and walking up the rest of the road before 07:30. The rest of the road being another 7.5 km or so following snowmobile tracks that were semi-firm for the most part. I pass the Black Tusk Snowmobile Cabins and go down a bit then wind up to gain Brohm Ridge.
Here I can see the outline of the tracks from last weeks group along with new ski tracks. As soon as I leave the snowmobile track I start postholing so on go the snowshoes. A bit of side-hilling for a while to gain the ridge proper and then the views start to open up.
 Looking at the route ahead and some big mountain.
I crest a small knoll that would have been smarter to go around then drop down into a bowl, cross that and gain a more distinctive ridge where there were 4 skiers.
 Zooming in - 4 skiers on the ridgeline with The Dalton Dome above. Garibaldi summit area could be just left of it.
I catch up with the skiers as we approach the Brohm Pinnacle. They are familiar with CT and we chatted for a few minutes before they skied down and around it whilst I went up and over which went fine. Putting the snowshoes back on I got this shot of them passing it on it's north side.
 Brohm Pinnacle and the skiers with Tantalus, Zenith and Pelion at rear.
 Looking up the moraine towards where the Warren Glacier starts.
I follow the soft dirt of the moraine then step back on snow and trudge upwards. The sun is beating down and it's mighty warm out. Lots of sunscreen applied on a regular basis. Gaining the Warren Glacier I can see one other skier crossing it a ways ahead. No slots open on the glacier and I feel confident about crossing it.
 North side of Garibaldi.
 And a look in the other direction towards Black Tusk, Table, Guard, Castle Towers etc.
Following close to his tracks I descend gradually to a debris field. Straight up in front of me is the toe of Garibaldi's northern ridge. The lone skier had gone around it to ascend gentler slopes. Straight up was steep but no problems on firm snow with snowshoes. Bit tiring though.
As the grade eased I continue onto the North Pitt Glacier area and get my first views of the north east face of Garibaldi. I take a rest at around 2260m and swap the snowshoes for crampons and iceaxe.
 Garibaldi NE Face. The bergschrund looks better this week than last.
There had been no signs of old tracks above 1800m way back on Brohm Ridge as quite a bit of snow had fallen the past week over a couple of mid week days. I looked around to see if the lone skier would show up but he didn't. Studying the upper face I came up with a couple of ways to gain the peak and soon set off to find out.
I should have kept the snowshoes on for a bit longer as the snow was pretty soft. I'd put on a sweater but pretty quick got too hot so I went back to a t-shirt and gloves. Nearing the bergschrund I can see that it's in really good shape and not really open at all, just some sagging which means I'm still going to be cautious as I cross it.
 Approaching the bergschrund.
Straight up the middle seemed like a good plan and I ascended across the very small avalanche debris centre of shot above then started a steep left rising traverse basically aiming for the low skyline area also in the shot above.
The snow up here was nice and firm, which was good as this was some steep shit (45-50 degrees). My right shoulder was getting sore from all the ice axe use. Going straight up for a bit instead of diagonal eased things.
After cutting up and over enough I could then go straight upwards to gain the summit ridge just shy of the summit and a further 20 or so steps put me on top.
 On top and really happy to be here. Atwell at right.
Garibaldi is around 2675m and there isn't much else around that is higher so the views are pretty awesome. Not the clearest of days but this trip is more about the destination than the views (not that I'd want to do this without that part of the reward).
Some of the views:
    
1. South-southeastern view with mountains of the Coquitlam/Pitt Divide (Five Fingers etc.) rear left. Pinecone and Seed Peaks in front of Five Fingers with Martin in front of them. Meslilloet is rear right.
2. Dalton Dome just over there to the west with The Tantalus Range filling the rear.
3. Just west of north view towards Garibaldi Lake with Black Tusk at left. The Table is in the foreground looking more like a foot stool from this height.
4. The Mamquam Massif to the southeast.
5. Southern view to Atwell Peak, down to Squamish and Howe Sound. Some North Shore Peaks visable on the skyline.
After a bit I cooled down enough to put on a sweater but there was minimal wind and my time spent on the summit was very pleasant.
 Cheerful.
For the descent I figured to check out the short NW Ridge.
 It looks like this. You go over the bump, drop down a bit to a rock pinnacle then go straight down.
I collected my gear, took one last look around then headed off. Easy to start, I go over the bump, drop down a steepish bit to the pinnacle, face inwards and kick steps down the very steep slope.
 Looking back up from part way down that (still above the bergschrund).
 And an idea of how steep things are. The bergschrund is lower left.
No issues crossing the 'schrund on this side and I turn to face forward and make my way down easier terrain to rejoin my uptrack.
 Looking back. Ascent on the left, descent on the right.
I'd been watching the progress of the skiers I'd passed earlier as they gained the North Pitt Glacier and headed towards the peak.
 Here they are.
We met up again (including the person who had been alone). We had another good chat and they continued up on skis with the plan of following my descent steps to the summit. I walked back over to where I'd left my snowshoes and carried them for a while as I retraced my steps to descend the steep section back down to the Warren Glacier.
 I'm not sure what this peak is, but it looks nice.
 Looking back at the NE Face as the skiers make their way up.
 Zoom on Castle Towers and Mount Carr with Deception in front.
 And a zoom on the upper NE Face/skiers/tracks.
 Garibaldi northern side from the steep slope dropping down to the Warren Glacier. NE Face upper left corner.
Back down near the debris field I soon start to posthole so the snowshoes go back on and I start a gentle rise across the glacier.
 "Cut Away" view of The North Pitt Glacier with The NE Face and peak area above.
The sun is relentless as I trudge upwards, crest then start down towards the moraine and Brohm Ridge. Most of the way down that I meet a couple more skiers who are planning on camping out on the upper glacier. After another good chat we go our respective ways. Snowshoes off I scramble back over the Brohm Pinnacle, take a quick break, putting the snowshoes back on the snow is becoming heavy and slushy as I follow the ridgeline and decide to try and cut off a bit of the ridge.
 Got to take at least one shot of The Sky Pilot Group.
I probably should have stayed more on the ridge as there were lots of minor ups and downs. I pick up some old tracks and also start to develop a blister on my right heel. It gets painful pretty quick but I try to ignore it and after what seems like a while I traverse back to the road follow that down then up slightly to the snowmobile cabins.
No one around but I notice a bag of beer chilling in the snow outside one of the cabins. Thinking about my own beer chilling in snow back at the vehicle I press on with the blister becoming more painful with each step.
I remove the snowshoes for the 100m el. trudge back up to where the gate is (currently buried in snow) then put them back on as postholing sucks. Only a few more km to go now, I put on my ipod and distract myself enough that time passes quickly and then I'm back at the vehicle enjoying a cold one and reflecting on a nice day out.
Round trip was 27-28km with a cumulative elevation gain of 2100-2200m and a time of 10:15. Burger King in Squamish hit the spot and well satisfied I head for home.
The small print: Walking across glaciers and climbing steep slopes can be a risky business (so can biking around Vancouver - which I do a lot of). Conditions on this day were good but that is not always the case. Be careful out there. |
Edited by - simonc on 05/28/2012 11:43 AM
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Smurf Village, BC
Canada
1495 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 10:19 AM
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Nicely done Simon! I enjoyed your report.
Getting a blister sucks when you know you've still got a ways to go. |
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 | LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2506 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 10:21 AM
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| Never get tired of that view. |
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 Fast Movin, litigatin, adventure seekin, clothin deprived trail buster
Port Moody, B.C.
Canada
589 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 11:28 AM
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| Congratulations Simon - way to take advantage of the bomber weather! |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
602 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 11:29 AM
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| I really like shots of you on the summit & aerial view of Table & Garibaldi Lake. Congratulations, awesome trip |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 11:38 AM
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That's a heck of an accomplishment for not feeling super-motivated. Nicely done.
PS- don't tell people biking around Van is dangerous....that'll put more cars on the road . |
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Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada
1087 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 11:43 AM
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Imagine you're safer up in the mountains than biking around the city. Seeing all those high peaks, what can I say, bigger sometimes truly is better  |
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
263 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 11:59 AM
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Great trip report - was looking over there from Whirlwind on Saturday wondering if there was anyone up there - I should have whistled harder lol :) For blisters I often use these BEFORE I even start out hiking. They are for cuts and scrapes (large size). They work better than moleskin, a bit on the expensive side but they are amazing for preventing blisters :)
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Edited by - ubishops on 05/28/2012 12:01 PM |
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505 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 12:23 PM
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| An honest days work deserving of a two thumbs up! great job Simon. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 12:25 PM
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| Thanks to Paulyman, I'm now a firm believer in Vaseline....uh...I mean, the pre-treatment of my heals using vaseline....I've been blister free for 5 hikes now. |
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60 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 12:44 PM
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Very nice trip Simon.
This peak is the remote Mt. Pitt. The McBride traverse has been day-tripped, but I beleive Pitt still awaits a day trip....
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13442 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 12:46 PM
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Simon, great to see your report here after seeing that shot on FB. Great mileage and time, that thinner air has to be tiring.
After seeing your view shots, I think I will try those later on in the season after doing a few more in the Chilliwack Area.
K |
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Chilliwack, BC
Canada
827 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 12:55 PM
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| awesome!! Excited about Mt. Pitt all over again |
Edited by - kellylegros on 05/28/2012 1:18 PM |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 1:34 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Ponzini
Very nice trip Simon.
This peak is the remote Mt. Pitt. The McBride traverse has been day-tripped, but I beleive Pitt still awaits a day trip....
Pitt has been daytripped many times, but I think you meant from the west instead of from the standard daytrip base camp at Snowcap Lake, right? |
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Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
3996 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 1:50 PM
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Thanks for the Pitt photo ID Todd. That was my second guess after Sir Richard (which upon looking at pictures did't match up). Dru has a nice shot of Pitt on Bivouac from The Neve.
Thanks too for the info on blisters, hasn't happened since I was on Phelix a year ago. Same problem though as my old (but lucky) socks seem to do that when they get wet along with gaitor and snowshoe straps adding some stress.
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Edited by - simonc on 05/28/2012 1:50 PM |
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over the hills and far away
Canada
708 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 2:27 PM
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| Nice report and effort. Hopefully it will encourage more people to get out there and travel on glaciers alone. |
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Whistler, BC
Canada
1174 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 3:20 PM
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quote:
Hopefully it will encourage more people to get out there and travel on glaciers alone.
? |
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80 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 3:43 PM
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He was just being sarcastic with his comment. I've been in the area several times and in different month. In late season, the bergschrund on the top is wide and extremely deep, and the top glacier is heavily crevassed. I would never recommend to travel alone in this glacier
Congrats, Simon!
quote:
Originally posted by msulkers
quote:
Hopefully it will encourage more people to get out there and travel on glaciers alone.
?
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 3:45 PM
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quote:
Hopefully it will encourage more people to get out there and travel on glaciers alone
...it's my fault really....I told Simon everything would be fine if he carried his trusty 10 foot 2 by 4 under his arm pits...
All joking aside though, while I don't and didn't recommend this glacier unroped, with current conditions I think the likelihood of falling into a crevasse on that route is fairly low right now.
Not saying it couldn't happen, just that chances are slim... |
Edited by - thecamel on 05/28/2012 6:46 PM |
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505 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 4:03 PM
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Where from the west? where would be the starting point?
Cody: Your Vaseline jokes are really begining to chafe me quote:
Originally posted by Dru
quote:
Originally postedby Ponzini
Very nice trip Simon.
This peak is the remote Mt. Pitt. The McBride traverse has been day-tripped, but I beleive Pitt still awaits a day trip....
Pitt has been daytripped many times, but I think you meant from the west instead of from the standard daytrip base camp at Snowcap Lake, right?
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Edited by - paulyman on 05/28/2012 4:09 PM |
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60 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 4:28 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Dru
quote:
Originally posted by Ponzini
Very nice trip Simon.
This peak is the remote Mt. Pitt. The McBride traverse has been day-tripped, but I beleive Pitt still awaits a day trip....
Pitt has been daytripped many times, but I think you meant from the west instead of from the standard daytrip base camp at Snowcap Lake, right?
Yeah, I was thinking (half joking) from the west. I believe the first ascent in the 30's was via Garibaldi Lake in 5 days return, which if I remember Fairley's guide correctly, was "a fast trip even by today's standards".
John Clarke did a trip in 1999 where they boated up Pitt Lake, hitched a ride to the road-end, and hiked up the river valley to climb the long S ridge of Pitt. It's written up in an old BCMC journal (2000?), really neat trip.
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Mount Garibaldi (NE Face Route) May 26 12
