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over the hills and far away
Canada
708 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 11:23 AM
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Hi. We are thinking of spending some time out of the Peyto Hut this summer and are hoping to draw on the experience of anyone who has been there and climbed some of the nearby peaks.
*Can anyone comment on access to the hut via Peyto Lake? I read about a bridge being gone. I realize there is glacier travel involved.
* Accessing from Bow Hut also seems reasonable, although a very long day from the road in the summer. Any challenges to be aware of? IS crossing Thompson's south shoulder straightforward?
For peaks in the area, Baker and Trapper look interesting. Is it feasible to basically b-line from the hut to the Baker-Trapper Col, and ascend both peaks in a day? For anyone who has climbed these, what are the technical challenges involved? How about for Rhondda? Pretty straighforward from the hut south, then up the southeast ridge?
Finally, Peyto Peak... is there a scramble route that could be accessed from the hut?
Lastly, right now we are two. We would be open to teaming up with another person or two that might be interested in spending 3 nights at the hut and seeing what we can climb, probably in the last half of August. Or we may decide to go back to Bow Hut. Anyway, if interested PM me.
Thanks for any info.
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Edited by - Candy Sack on 05/25/2012 12:06 PM
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
615 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 11:51 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Candy Sack
*Can anyone comment on access to the hut via Peyto Lake? I read about a bridge being gone. I realize there is glacier travel involved.
Yes the bridge is gone and the summer approach is much harder now, especially in early summer. There's two postings from the MCR reports last year at http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp which detail the options (just search for "Peyto" and #9 and #4 are the trip reports I'm talking about).
quote:
* Accessing from Bow Hut also seems reasonable, although a very long day from the road in the summer. Any challenges to be aware of? IS crossing Thompson's south shoulder straightforward?
It is further but timewise (in winter for sure) it's the same length. Crossing that section of the Wapta should be straight forward for glacier travel.
quote:
For peaks in the area, Baker and Trapper look interesting. Is it feasible to basically b-line from the hut to the Baker-Trapper Col, and ascend both peaks in a day? For anyone who has climbed these, what are the technical challenges involved? How about for Rhondda? Pretty straighforward from the hut south, then up the southwest ridge?
Baker / Tilly Col is where you climb Baker from, I would think that a Trapper / Baker day is possible but very long, especially in the summer. The Peyto Hut is a surprisingly long ways from those peaks, especially if you're walking. Trapper probably has some steep ice in the summer so bring some good crampons and know how to protect steep ice. Baker is probably quite straight forward in the summer.
quote:
Finally, Peyto Peak... is there a scramble route that could be accessed from the hut?
Based on first-hand reports a summer scramble route (other than slight glacier crossing) exists from the Caldron Lake side, but it's possible that you could ascend the 'skiers summit' from the Trapper / Peyto col and contour around the north side of Peyto to find this route. Trapper / Peyto is more doable in a day than Trapper / Baker IMHO.
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Thanks for any info.
You are quite welcome! |
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over the hills and far away
Canada
708 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 12:24 PM
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| Thanks for that info. Just to follow up, because I'm not seeing "Tilly" marked on my maps, is it the small peak that lies just east between Baker and Trapper, or somewhere between Baker and Habel? Thanks. |
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Calgary, AB
52 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2012 : 2:14 PM
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The scramble route is very straight forward up Peyto Mtn, but only up to the summit block. The summit block is definitely a rock climb and since we had left all our gear at the base of the peak, we were content with the summit ridge, where the views were still spectacular.
From Peyto Hut, just keep a high traverse above the bowl where the Peyto Glacier drops down to its lower section. Then find a reasonable spot to cross the stream - this was the crux for us, since it was in full flood. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
615 Posts |
Posted - 05/28/2012 : 08:31 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Candy Sack
Thanks for that info. Just to follow up, because I'm not seeing "Tilly" marked on my maps, is it the small peak that lies just east between Baker and Trapper, or somewhere between Baker and Habel? Thanks.
Tilly is the summit between Baker and Trapper. It's very close to the requisite 330 feet elevation gain from the col, so I consider it a 'summit' - it's unofficial. |
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Peyto Hut Area Questions
