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Edmonton, AB Canada
467 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 11:58 PM
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For photos: http://stevensong.fotki.com/canadian-rockies/canmore/mount-lady-macdonal/
My original plan of this weekend was to do some last snowshoeing ascents, namely Mosquito Mountain and Emerald Peak, however, as I drove into the mountains, I changed my mind. Marko pointed out that some folks was going to do Lady Mac, while I thought it would be questionable as any cornice on the ridge could potentially stop your attempt... The system on Thursday and Friday also dumped new snow to that area. The temperature would drop to -5 overnight, so logically, doing a snowshoeing trip along Icefield Parkway would be a smart idea. BUT, as I drove to Canmore, the front ranges mountains appear bone dry! The possible explanation is that the ground has already got the heat to melt the new snow very soon. I started to question my plan, yeah, why not just stick to Canmore and tick off a few scrambler's summits? By this way I could also save about 200km driving distance.. Doing solo trip means infinitely flexibility on objectivity. I ended up doing Mount Lady MacDonald on Saturday; Morrowmount on Sunday; Mount Yamuska + Mount Baldy on Monday.
I failed this mountain twice in December 2011, there's no way I can fail it the third time.
A brief note for December 24, 2011: My fourth day of peak bagging of solo Christmas adventure. I was already short of energy and went up the mountain late (well, 9:30am start in December is a late start). I lost the trail just before a large meadows area and went straight up.. Not far up I encountered a boulder field, in which, I found a large consumed body of goat or deer... Shit there must a cougar around and I wasn't even armed with a spray... I was freaked out and ran down the mountain.
A note for December 26, 2011: Two days after, I armed with a spray and a knife. This time I found the correct trail. Reaching the final summit ridge imposed no difficulty. This was my first time doing difficult scramble, and I chose Lady MacDonald in winter, went soloing. Just before the true summit there's a slight dip. This is a bit north facing and the narrowest part got double-corniced. This part of the ridge is also slabby. In this condition, it's no longer a scramble.
May 19, 2011:
In dry condition, the ridge imposes no difficulty. I would say my miserable wrong ridge ascent of Midnight Peak and the crux step on St. Nicolas Peak are more serious than the final dip on Lady Mac's ridge. With all of those experience, I could just walk up the summit ridge to the dip before false summit, then a moderate scramble to get to false peak. Then it's a walk up to the final dip before true summit. The rock is very grippy this time so I soon stand on the summit. I used 15min to traverse the entire summit ridge (including taking near 30 photos), while I've heard some people used 1 hour to do so. I'm very satisfied but since I was soloing, I couldn't get a decent photo of the ridge with people on it. It's Saturday so I knew there would be many many people coming up. I waited for about 1 hour. It was pretty chilly on the top and I didn't have extra layer so I had to go back...
Coming back the crux dip is easier for sure. I waited another 15min or so after getting back to the safe side of the summit ridge. Two girls topped out. After talking to each other briefly, I said I can lead them to the summit and I don't mind to re-do the entire ridge. Lindsay stopped just before the crux dip, while Diana and I made to the summit. I did got some good shots of how serious the ridge is..
Overall, if you are confident on exposure, this ridge is for you. There's no loose rock and the slabs are very grippy. If you can walk on the ridge for most part, then you can do it in 15min, if you have to often hands-down, then you probably need 30-40min.. If someday I run out of peak in Canmore area, Lady Mac is the one I want to repeat. With a very popular approach (Teahouse Ridge), you don't need to worry too much about bears if you are soloing. I didn't count but I guess I saw 100 people the entire day.
The approach:

The summit ridge before the crux dip:

Diana negotiates the crux:

The summit, for views please check my fotki site:

Me come back the crux:

Diana come back the crux:

The descent:
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Edited by - StevenSong on 05/22/2012 09:55 AM
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 02:33 AM
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quote: Originally posted by StevenSong
For photos, please check back, as I will upload them soon.
My original plan of this weekend was to do some last snowshoeing ascents, namely Mosquito Mountain and Emerald Peak, however, as I drove into the mountains, I changed my mind. Marko pointed out that some folks was going to do Lady Mac, while I thought it would be questionable as any cornice on the ridge could potentially stop your attempt... The system on Thursday and Friday also dumped new snow to that area. The temperature would drop to -5 overnight, so logically, doing a snowshoeing trip along Icefield Parkway would be a smart idea. BUT, as I drove to Canmore, the front ranges mountains appear bone dry! The possible explanation is that the ground has already got the heat to melt the new snow very soon. I started to question my plan, yeah, why not just stick to Canmore and tick off a few scrambler's summits? By this way I could also save about 200km driving distance.. Doing solo trip means infinitely flexibility on objectivity. I ended up doing Mount Lady MacDonald on Saturday; Morrowmount on Sunday; Mount Yamuska + Mount Baldy on Monday.
I failed this mountain twice in December 2011, there's no way I can fail it the third time.
A brief note for December 24, 2011: My fourth day of peak bagging of solo Christmas adventure. I was already short of energy and went up the mountain late (well, 9:30am start in December is a late start). I lost the trail just before a large meadows area and went straight up.. Not far up I encountered a boulder field, in which, I found a large consumed body of goat or deer... Shit there must a cougar around and I wasn't even armed with a spray... I was freaked out and ran down the mountain
Geez dude. That's great about your scrambles, but you seem so jumpy about bears and cougs! I come across cougar kill now and then wandering around...I DO actually find it a bit unsettling, but, no need to freak out! :-) Bears I'll see every week or so. (I never carry spray)
Not saying they aren't dangerous...obviously...but it's not a big deal. Enjoy!
I get a lot more frightened of the cougars out prowling on girls night! Now THEY will eye you up like a piece O meat!
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Edmonton, Alberta Canada
797 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 06:43 AM
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Hey you should post the pictures of 'Lindsay' and Diana....pretty sure Lynsey is a friend of mine....she did Lady Mac that day with a friend. She was probably wearing pink...
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Calgary, Alberta Canada
1195 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 07:23 AM
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quote: Originally posted by StevenSong
I ended up doing Mount Lady MacDonald on Saturday; Morrowmount on Sunday; Mount Yamuska + Mount Baldy on Monday.
It makes me tired just reading that. Very impressive! |
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Edmonton, Alberta Canada
110 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 07:36 AM
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quote: Geez dude. That's great about your scrambles, but you seem so jumpy about bears and cougs! I come across cougar kill now and then wandering around...I DO actually find it a bit unsettling, but, no need to freak out! :-) Bears I'll see every week or so. (I never carry spray)
Not saying they aren't dangerous...obviously...but it's not a big deal. Enjoy!
I get a lot more frightened of the cougars out prowling on girls night! Now THEY will eye you up like a piece O meat!
Last summer on the Montaine Trail below Lady McD we encountered a cougar stalking a pair of deer...actually we interrupted as the animal leaped for the kill. It was an exhilerating but frightening experience! You may also remember in the same area a jogger was killed by a black bear a few years back - there is a memorial cairn along the trail.
Anyway, congrats on bagging the Lady ;-) Our group did that scramble for the Alberta Centennial project; did you happen to note how many have signed the register since we changed the book?
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287 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 09:25 AM
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quote: quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by StevenSong
I ended up doing Mount Lady MacDonald on Saturday; Morrowmount on Sunday; Mount Yamuska + Mount Baldy on Monday.
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It makes me tired just reading that. Very impressive!
Several years ago, I did Lady MacDonald and East End of Rundle in a single day. The following day, I ran a marathon in Calgary. I don't think I could do that today, at least not the marathon follow-up. Oh to have boundless energy. Good job Steven! |
Edited by - jeffs78 on 05/22/2012 09:27 AM |
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Edmonton, AB Canada
467 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 10:00 AM
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| Among all the millions of hikers, the tragedy of bear / cougar encounter only happens one per several years, so it's quite a risk that you can take. But despite that, it will be very intense when you actually see them. I never see a bear or cougar or wolf or even coyote when hiking. |
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Edmonton, AB Canada
467 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 10:03 AM
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quote: Originally posted by Trail Talk
Last summer on the Montaine Trail below Lady McD we encountered a cougar stalking a pair of deer...actually we interrupted as the animal leaped for the kill. It was an exhilerating but frightening experience! You may also remember in the same area a jogger was killed by a black bear a few years back - there is a memorial cairn along the trail.
Anyway, congrats on bagging the Lady ;-) Our group did that scramble for the Alberta Centennial project; did you happen to note how many have signed the register since we changed the book?
I didn't notice a memorial cairn on the trail. Is that bear accident in 2005? That's the only one I know in Alberta Rockies in recent years. The register is not a ACME register. I've seen ACME register on Hawk Mountain, and the one on Lady Mac looks quite different. The register is about 2/3 full. |
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Edmonton, AB Canada
467 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 10:06 AM
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quote: Originally posted by booewen
Hey you should post the pictures of 'Lindsay' and Diana....pretty sure Lynsey is a friend of mine....she did Lady Mac that day with a friend. She was probably wearing pink...
Yeah Lynsey wore pink shirt and green jacket. |
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Edmonton, AB Canada
467 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 10:09 AM
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quote: Originally posted by jeffs78
quote: quote: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Originally posted by StevenSong
I ended up doing Mount Lady MacDonald on Saturday; Morrowmount on Sunday; Mount Yamuska + Mount Baldy on Monday.
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It makes me tired just reading that. Very impressive!
Several years ago, I did Lady MacDonald and East End of Rundle in a single day. The following day, I ran a marathon in Calgary. I don't think I could do that today, at least not the marathon follow-up. Oh to have boundless energy. Good job Steven!
Lady Mac + EEOR is perfectly doable in one day, but doing a marathon after that is quite intense. I never run that long though. How's your trip to US? I'm looking forward to your story. Sorry about Castleguard as I ascent it last weekend under superb weather condition. We can do things like White Pyramid and Mount Hector next spring. |
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calgary, ab Canada
150 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 4:18 PM
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| wow steve your a busy little scrambler, thanks for posting your trips from the weekend. I enjoy reading them. |
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| Engor
Intermediate Member
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Calgary
838 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 5:58 PM
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Thanks for putting so much efforts to write good trip reports on this board.
Good to know that the ridge right before the summit is dry. I might give it a try next weekend if weather is good. |
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2012 : 7:54 PM
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quote: Originally posted by Trail Talk
quote: Geez dude. That's great about your scrambles, but you seem so jumpy about bears and cougs! I come across cougar kill now and then wandering around...I DO actually find it a bit unsettling, but, no need to freak out! :-) Bears I'll see every week or so. (I never carry spray)
Not saying they aren't dangerous...obviously...but it's not a big deal. Enjoy!
I get a lot more frightened of the cougars out prowling on girls night! Now THEY will eye you up like a piece O meat!
Last summer on the Montaine Trail below Lady McD we encountered a cougar stalking a pair of deer...actually we interrupted as the animal leaped for the kill. It was an exhilerating but frightening experience! here is a memorial cairn along the trail.
Very cool. |
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287 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2012 : 9:31 PM
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quote: Lady Mac + EEOR is perfectly doable in one day, but doing a marathon after that is quite intense. I never run that long though. How's your trip to US? I'm looking forward to your story. Sorry about Castleguard as I ascent it last weekend under superb weather condition. We can do things like White Pyramid and Mount Hector next spring.
Steven, awesome week spent in the US. Our party was successful on both Rainier and Shasta plus a couple other peaks as well. This was my first time in these areas and certainly worthy of their popularity and worth the extra time and travel costs. Once I get my photos in order and review my journal notes, I'll have to do a trip report especially our ascent of Rainier, that was simply awesome, what a fun mountain! And now my highest mountain climbed to date at 4392m, surpassing Mt Jebel Toubkal (4167m).
Sounds like you had a good May long weekend, lots of peak bagging. I'll have to do Castleguard some other time. And I'd like to get Mt Hector too, perhaps my second attempt will be better than the first. Cheers! |
Edited by - jeffs78 on 05/23/2012 9:39 PM |
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Edmonton, AB Canada
467 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2012 : 08:45 AM
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quote: Originally posted by jeffs78
Steven, awesome week spent in the US. Our party was successful on both Rainier and Shasta plus a couple other peaks as well. This was my first time in these areas and certainly worthy of their popularity and worth the extra time and travel costs. Once I get my photos in order and review my journal notes, I'll have to do a trip report especially our ascent of Rainier, that was simply awesome, what a fun mountain! And now my highest mountain climbed to date at 4392m, surpassing Mt Jebel Toubkal (4167m).
Sounds like you had a good May long weekend, lots of peak bagging. I'll have to do Castleguard some other time. And I'd like to get Mt Hector too, perhaps my second attempt will be better than the first. Cheers!
Wow, congraz on these success! I haven't been to any of those areas, but I can imagine how the view is when standing on Rainier and looking down at everything, that would be like Robson except for even higher :)
The highest point I got to is actually not on a mountain. From Jiuzhaigou to Huanglong (Sichuan, China), our bus passed a high pass at elevation of 4200m. Other than that, the highest mountain I've climbed is Temple, 3543m...
For mountains like Castleguard and Hector, I think the most important is the group's flexibility. You just can't say we gonna get there on a specific date as if the weather or avy condition doesn't cooperate then it's just a fail... Even summitting in a whiteout, then what's the point of making so much effort and getting no view. Under blue sky with low avalanche condition, they're really not that difficult.
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