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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 10:35 PM
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Original plan was to attempt Silvertip from the south with Ben (doubleealpinist) and possibly a mystery guest (Simonc) but when I got this text later Friday night from Leigh (leimrod), plans changed quickly.
Sleep deprived as I already am, I knew I couldn’t pass this opportunity up as I’ve been wanting to do Garibaldi for some time now but was never able to steal a couple days away at the right time. Ben was easily persuaded even though he’d have to wake up earlier than anyone as this was going to be a one day affair.
A wise man once said “I love it when a plan comes together,”
and the fact that we all managed to meet at the Chevron in Squamish at 430 AM was a good first step.
Not so much an A-Team as a Motley Crue:
Adrien, (4th attempt, bad conditions and packing too many cookies to blame for previous lack of success)
Bonn-Tien, (3rd attempt, bad conditions and Adrien packing too many cookies to blame for previous lack of success)
Dean, (5th attempt? Summited once already, has Atwell in the bag, and "floats on snow.")
Leigh, (1st attempt, moves like Jagger and has the luck of the Irish)
Spring, (1st attempt, Dances with summits and runs marathons for breakfast)
Ben, (1st attempt, 4th weekend in a row and had to wake up at 130AM)
and myself ( 1st attempt, big fan of A-Team….admittedly also listened to Motley Crue for a time)
Made it to 950m in a Grand Cherokee and a Forester.
545AM saw us moving swiftly over firm snow up the FSR, and maybe an hour later we stopped for a brief rest near the cabin. Just past there we ran into a lone skier who had hitchhiked to the bottom of the FSR, walked up to the Cabin, bivvied on the porch, summitted sometime around 9AM and was on his way back down. All of a sudden, I didn’t feel so hard-core anymore.
I’ve never been on Brohm Ridge before but it seemed to go on forever. I can’t imagine how much longer it felt for Dean, Adrien and BT as they’ve been along it several times. I led from the rear for most of the way across the ridge and when I did catch up, I was often privy to a Leigh remix of “Moves like Jagger” or a gentle ballad of “Touch the Sky” from Dean. I love hiking to a soundtrack
  
Before too long...and by that I mean a very long time....we were within striking distance (where most seem to set up camp for an early assault) and discussing rope teams, body weight, girls’ bathrooms, smoking in the boy's room, and fashion accessories.
It was here we donned crampons….mostly for style…..and equipped ourselves for what would hopefully be an uneventful trudge up the Glacier to the Northeast face of Garibaldi.
Dean making Garibaldi look small in the background.
Dean explaining how he will probably defy gravity by floating over weak snow bridges and showing Ben the ropes at the same time.
Heading straight across and up, not around.
Temps were still low and the snow was still firm which made for quick travel. Well, we could have moved quickly had we the inclination….maybe not me…but the others.
Approaching the bergshrund, we could see two people mucking about above and below the crack. We couldn’t really tell from that distance what they were up to but as it turned out they were just waiting for the snow to soften a bit for they’re ski-run back down.
Reconvening to make sure at least a couple of us were wearing matching headbands, jackets, ropes, crampons, etc....
We discussed our options for crossing the bergshrund,(still easily passable on the right) and the traverse/ascent above. While everyone was comfortable going unroped, we didn’t bother stopping to unclip as there was a stairway of perfectly planted steps up to the summit.
The final steps to the summit. Dean and Ben ahead.
 
Leigh and Spring right behind.
 
Adrien and BT got their chance to stand on top.....and it was well-deserved indeed. unfortunately I only have this shot of BT approaching as I filmed their actual summit. Hopefully someone else has a pic to post.
It was around 1pm when we all congregated on the summit for photos and kudos. After some dancing, tweeting, peak- ogling,snack eating, real-estate discussing, mind-boggling, trip sussing, shivering, and sun-burning, we proceeded to the down-climbing.
Most of the others took a lot of summit pix so I'll let them post and share. Just one of my fav's of Atwell.
Adrien and BT went first and in a symbolic homage to their upcoming marriage, stayed hitched. The rest of the crue decided to head down solo, mainly because we’re all big Star Wars fans, and we think of Han Solo whenever we hear the word solo.
   
Re-roping just above the bergshrund, we proceeded across and down the glacier without any issues. The snow was a little softer at this point but still perfect for walking.
 
In short order, we were back at the spot where we had roped up to boil water, talk about how crampons rhymes with tampons, and curiously enough, discuss fashion yet again.
 
After a glissade here and a buttslide there, the traverse across Brohm Ridge was soft and sinkable, and we were all getting really tired….except Ben who ran most of the way back to the cabin. We were glad we packed snowshoes up at this point.
 
Highlights of the trudge back included a whisky jack landing on Dean’s hat and hanging out for a bit for no apparent reason, the sun going behind the clouds, Leigh and I dropping lower and climbing higher several times to pad our cum. elev. stats, random philosophical discussions, and getting back to the vehicles...period.
Car to car about 14 hrs with - I have no idea cum. elev.- the end result being a great day out with great company.
I hope the others add their pictures and 2 cents as my photos will definitely not be the best of the groups.
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 Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
3996 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 10:44 PM
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Good looking Crue .
Kinda kicking myself for not dragging my ass out of bed at 3am.
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canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru
Surrey Hole, BC
Canada
6770 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 10:57 PM
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Really good T/R 
Nice day for it too |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13442 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 11:04 PM
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AWESOME EFFORT.... Glorious pictures.
K |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
667 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 11:43 PM
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"insert Emoticon for Envy here!"
Nice one.. wow one day. room for a Bivi up there? |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2012 : 11:46 PM
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Summit shot, note Deans sexiness.
Great TR. I'll add a few choice pictures as you've captured most of the day with yours.
Video to follow shortly.
Something Cody forgot to mention is that he absolutely loves wearing crampons. There is never a situation where it is better to not be wearing crampons.
In the photo above you see Cody putting his crampons on at the TH. He said the front points give particularly good purchase on the dirt and rocks you encounter on long FSR approachs
Here we see Cody regaling us with stories of how lackluster his hiking had been before discovering the wonder of crampons. I will admit to being quite tired at this stage to hearing him persistently say: "Seriously guys, check out my sweet crampons!"
Anyway...
   
1. Massive Dean and the Garibaldi Massif
2. Traversing towards the Warren Glacier
3. Gaining high on the North Pitt Glacier, The Table and Black Tusk prominent behind
4. Crossing the 'schrund
   
1. A look of happiness and relief. 4th attempt and it's in the bag
2. Atwell steals the show. I can see our place down there!
3. Summit success
4. Cody checks out Squamish real-estate
   
1. Cody, Dean and Spring rope up to cross the 'schrund. Ben "DoubleE Alpinist" in the foreground. I'd find out earlier that day that the "DoubleE" in his username stands for Extremely Extreme.
2. Adrien and Bonn-Tien crossing the debris field from the calving edge of the North Pitt Glacier
3. The ice calving off the side of the Garibaldi Massif
4. Objectives complete behind, future objectives ahead
 
1. Massif
2. Final rest before the long slog out |
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada
558 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 06:54 AM
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Great effort! And what an awesome day for it!
(now imagine the sheer joy of popping on some skis for your run from the summit to the vehicles...) |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 1:12 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by DPM
Great effort! And what an awesome day for it!
(now imagine the sheer joy of popping on some skis for your run from the summit to the vehicles...)
Yeah, there was one bit where we had to glissade/butt slide down a bit and everyone was laughing and smiling... until we stopped, and had to start postholing again. I remember thinking "people on skis, they're experiencing that joy right from the summit to the car"
Hopefully a season of AT'ing this winter will fix that. |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4646 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 2:40 PM
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Awesome trip guys & gals   .
Good group - cohesive in experience and fitness level |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
345 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 3:56 PM
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Wonderful and well written TR. Enjoyed every piece of it.
Here are my pics and comments:
Dean is a tree.
Break before the glacier
Big ice fall
Bt in the middle of the blocks
Easy crampon free slope.
Rest before snowbridge
Looking NW from the summit
Summit 180
3 peaks
14th of July 2012!
Leigh Chillin!
All of us chillin! |
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 | LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2506 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 4:00 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by leimrod
quote:
Originally posted by DPM
Great effort! And what an awesome day for it!
(now imagine the sheer joy of popping on some skis for your run from the summit to the vehicles...)
Yeah, there was one bit where we had to glissade/butt slide down a bit and everyone was laughing and smiling... until we stopped, and had to start postholing again. I remember thinking "people on skis, they're experiencing that joy right from the summit to the car"
Hopefully a season of AT'ing this winter will fix that.
Trust me - you'll enjoy it. Not only is it fun it's safer. Less time spent exposed. Better ability to cross snowbridges without breaking through. Only downside I can think of is that it's a bit of a pain bushwhacking thick brush with skis --- oh and the cost but there's way to handle that.
Plus you'll be one of the few Irish backcountry skiers out there. |
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358 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 7:58 PM
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Nice write up Cody! This was an awesome trip and a great learning experience.
   
I'm proud to say that I've finally conquered the Black Tusk! |
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Outdoors addicted flyfishing, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking car crooner and resident motormouth
Da'Wack, BC
Canada
5368 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 8:37 PM
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That's one way to beat the city boy blues.
Grand TR. Enjoyed the photos and the storytelling...and the commentary.
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double-double seeking, snow-chasing, short-cutting, vertical feet collector
4523 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 8:51 PM
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ooo, lovely.
well done, gentlemen. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
145 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2012 : 9:11 PM
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| Excellent trip report and great job -- doing Garibaldi in a day on snowshoes is a very good accomplishment. |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2012 : 09:12 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Alastair
Excellent trip report and great job -- doing Garibaldi in a day on snowshoes is a very good accomplishment.
We really lucked out with conditions. The snow stayed firm well past afternoon, I guess there had been a week of melt/freeze in the snowpack and then the temps stayed low on Saturday which helped. It only started softening up around ~2pm by my estimates. This meant we didn't have to put on snowshoes until we where back on Brohm ridge on our return trip.
The approach in went really fast as it was like walking on solid ground for the most part. |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 05/23/2012 : 10:22 AM
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"I love it when a plan comes together"
... 
coincidence? |
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East Van, BC
Canada
23 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2012 : 10:40 AM
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| Fantastic trip. How far up the logging road could you make it with a 2wd car? |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2012 : 10:49 AM
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quote:
Fantastic trip. How far up the logging road could you make it with a 2wd car?
depends on how much you wanna scrape the underneath and how much clearance you have. I think most of the bars could be handled with lower clearance than my Forester has as long as you drive carefully. Some of the steeper bits get quite rocky (big in places) so you might have to fly at her to get up. I'd say you could get to where we stopped (900m) or close to that. |
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Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada
1087 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2012 : 10:51 AM
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| This report has been good enough for 5 or 6 reads now, keep it going. T. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2012 : 10:51 AM
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quote:
coincidence?
...ha ha ha...ya...pretty much.
Hey Leigh, you should check out my sweet crampons! |
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Mt. Garibaldi 05.19.12 - A Motley Ascent.
