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Burnaby, BC
Canada
345 Posts |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
41 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 07:32 AM
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Cool vidéo
Good job!
All the best! |
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 Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3838 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 08:03 AM
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Great pictures and video.
Bet you will always remember this one.
Good going. |
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada
558 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 08:32 AM
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| Nice exposure! |
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362 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 7:47 PM
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You guys so crazy Pelion is Ossa's neighbour if I'm not mistaken - at what point do the approach routes deviate? |
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Hope, BC
Canada
7100 Posts |
Posted - 05/15/2012 : 8:51 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Adrien BC
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-frHuRKEc2Y&feature=youtu.be
Jesus Christ are you trying to kill me with a heart attack ??
I almost started looking for a barf bag in the seat in front of me LOL!
Damn that video is crazy!!! One heck of an awesome climb frig, I am in misbelief.
Totally awesome views, wicked video editing too!
Hope you don't mind I had to share it on facebook with some friends to see. |
Edited by - AcesHigh on 05/15/2012 9:00 PM |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2012 : 08:14 AM
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Nice video, great work.
One question, don't take offense, is this some kind of weird Coast Mountain thing where people belay directly off one snow anchor? The whole thing about snow anchors is that they are dodgy - looks like you had pretty soft snow - so they should be dynamic. Belaying off your body instead of directly off the anchor allows the belayer to absorb some of the force on the anchor in case of a fall. One picket- even buried as a deadman - isn't what I'd be trusting to hold a fall, and that ice axe anchor near the summit looks super dodgy.
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 | LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2507 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2012 : 10:28 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by sandy
Nice video, great work.
One question, don't take offense, is this some kind of weird Coast Mountain thing where people belay directly off one snow anchor? The whole thing about snow anchors is that they are dodgy - looks like you had pretty soft snow - so they should be dynamic. Belaying off your body instead of directly off the anchor allows the belayer to absorb some of the force on the anchor in case of a fall. One picket- even buried as a deadman - isn't what I'd be trusting to hold a fall, and that ice axe anchor near the summit looks super dodgy.
Nope - its sloppy. Adrien - take it as a teaching moment. Back up the axe and picket if you're belaying. Ignore if you were just practising ropework and the belay was just for convenience.
Prob too wet to cut a bollard but there's lots of rock horns around that peak to use as a primary if not secondary. |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1009 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2012 : 10:47 PM
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Video: https://vimeo.com/42443619
My "live" posting got moved, so I guess I'll update this thread rather than start a new one.
Haven't finished doing up a video yet, but here's my TR:
Pelion Mountain: Pupils of Chiron
From bivouac:
“Pelion, like most of the peaks in the Tantalus range was named according to a Greek god theme... It was by legend one of the last holdouts of the race of centaurs in the Archaic era, and was where Herakles (Hercules) was tutored by the wise centaur Chiron, who was known for his learning.”
On Saturday, the 12th of May, Dean (DeanP) along with Adrien (AdrienBC) pulled up outside our place in Squamish around 9am. Our goal for the weekend would be Mount Pelion in the Tantalus Range. From the pickup spot we could see bluebird skies over Alpha, Omega and Thyestes, the stoke was high. Myself and Spring (Springbow) quickly loaded our gear into Deans Jeep and headed out.
This trip would be Dean and Adrien’s second attempt at Pelion. The previous year they had encountered poor snow conditions less than 30m’s below the summit and had been forced to turn back. It would be myself and Springs first attempt but ever since we laid eyes on Pelion when we summited Ossa last year we’d wanted to climb it.
We started out on the Sigurd Creek trail shortly after 10am I believe. We’d be snow pitting it so we didn’t have tents. Nevertheless, I’m sure each of our packs weighed around 50lbs at least with all the heavy metal you need to carry for mountaineering.
We tried to move as fast as possible on the trail. Each of us has done this trail a number of times so we just put our heads down and motored. We got within 700m’s of the lookout at ~900m’s elv. before the snow started. Thankfully it was still early enough in the day that the snow was still firm and held our weight. We would not be as fortunate on our return trip.
At the lookout we took our first break and had lunch for probably half an hour. It was starting to get hot. I was actually glad we’d be under the tree canopy for another few km’s. The heat in the open was stifling. We continued on, but chose not to follow the summer trail. We traversed around the north side of the valley to not lose as much elevation. Eventually we met up with the summer trail again at the first slide path.
Dean and Adrien have never done this trail in summer so it was hard to convey to them just how much of a relief it was to not have to be pushing through those tangles of Alders and Devils club that will wake from their winter slumber in a matter of weeks.
We roughly followed the summer trail and in no time at all we were at the Sigurd Creek crossing.
Good news! The bridge is still intact.
Bad news... we have no way of using it.
   
We contemplated a few options, but I think everyone wanted to use a snow bridge of some kind if possible rather than expending the energy to try and make a means to cross the creek. We followed the banks of it for a while upstream before we came to what seemed like a recently collapsed snowbridge. It looked iffy I won’t lie. It was compromised underneath by the running water and softening up quickly in the sun.
Dean crossed it first to test it. Then I, as I’m the heaviest in the group. This was referred to as “Leigh-proofing”. The bridge passed my test and everyone else crossed without incident. In no time from there we were below the glacier between Ossa and Pelion. We headed up to climbers left of of the glacier and onto the NW ridge. At around 1400m’s we found a good location to camp and dropped our packs.
We set about digging our snow pits right away and were both finished within 30 minutes or so. Dean and Adrien in one, myself and Spring in the other. I’ve really grown fond of snowpits. You never have to leave to get water, your shelter is made of frozen water. You also have infinite options in how you want to construct storage space, a kitchen... etc, and they're quiet, compared to tents.
   
   
Anyway, we had promptly had dinner, boiled water for the next day, watched the sunset around 8pm then turned in. We’d be up in 6 hours for an alpine start at 2am.
2am rolled around all too quickly. Surprisingly it wasn’t difficult to get up. I was really stoked to get going and up this mountain. We had some bagels and cream cheese that we’d kept from freezing in our sleeping bags with some instant coffee then geared up and headed out at around 3:30am.
   
The snow conditions were perfect. The crust was holding our weight and we could move swiftly up the ridge. In no time at all we were at 2000m’s and the summit was within striking distance. We switched to crampons and roped up and left our snowshoes behind to be collected on the way back. We followed a beeline directly for the summit. Using running belays in places of exposure above an open crevasse or bergschrund on the glacier. We topped out on the ridge around 2200m's beside a rock pinnacle. From here we started the exposed traverse of the ridge towards the summit.
   
We got to a point where we decided to start protecting our progress with pickets and belaying each other forward until the person leading could place another picket. Personally, I don’t believe these pickets would of held if someone had taken a whipper. Although there are psychological merits to placing pickets that shouldn’t be discounted. Realistically, if someone had started to fall, the other person on the rope was going to have to fall off the other side of the ridge crest to stop their descent. We had discussed this as a group beforehand and agreed to be aware of it.
Time was critical and I believe we would not have summited had we taken time to dig out and bury the 5 or 6 pickets we placed. I also believe it would have been more dangerous to have still been on that ridge an hour later than we where, the snow was already starting to lose cohesion as descended. We also did not use any Ice Axes as belay anchors. They where merely personal backups at anchor stations. We did use our axes as boot-ax belays though when one in a rope team would top out on a steep section first.
   
Anyway, progress slowed as we realized that we’d need to each go to summit one at a time. We all couldn’t fit at the belay station directly before the summit also. I stayed back at a relatively flat section of the ridge as Dean, Spring and Adrien set up a t-slot anchor using a picket. Dean led ahead and built another anchor around a rock horn just below the summit. From here Dean traversed around a rock ledge and reached the summit. Slowly, we all followed and reached the summit one at a time.
   
   
   
It was after 9am at this point. It had taken us 3hrs to gain ~850m’s and get to ~2250m’s. It took us another 3hrs or so to go the final 60 odd meters to reach the summit.
Anyway, we all traversed back along the ridge. Instead of following our route up we cut around a rock tower onto its south side and dropped down to 2100m’s, circling around to pick up our snowshoes.
   
We descended down the ridge and reached camp around 11:30am. We were all feeling the heat and the oppressive glare of the sun so we ducked into our snow pits to cool down and rest for a bit.
  
After about an hour or two we packed up and headed out. The snow was softening up quickly now which made our descent quick. We used the same snowbridge to cross Sigurd Creek and motored along our bootpack. We took one last short break shortly before the lookout bump then dropped down into the trees. Our snowshoes were off by this point and the snow was a postholey mess this late in the day. Each of us was getting caught frequently in postholes up to our waists near deadfall, trees, streams running under the snowpack... etc.
We finally dropped below the snowline and the rest was a blur of roots, rocks and dirt. All in the Sunday was probably a 15hr day, counting all our breaks and our 2hrs at camp.
Overall I really enjoyed the trip and especially enjoyed walking that knife edge ridge in the early morning sunlight looking out over Tantalus and the range of mountains that bear the same name.
I'm more than open to advice on how we should of progressed better along that ridge. An example of how you've moved with a partner along a knife edge ridge would help. |
Edited by - leimrod on 05/20/2012 11:12 AM |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
667 Posts |
Posted - 05/17/2012 : 11:12 PM
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That is awesome! great job guys. I hope to have the chance to climb that one in the next few years once I get a grip on rope techniques and stuff.
Great job! great pics! and the weather .. Wow you sure picked the perfect time to go.
Nice! |
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada
558 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 06:43 AM
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| Nice job Leigh & Co. (and a high quality TR) - you guys are getting tonnes of mileage under your belts. |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 08:02 AM
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Very nice write up and well done on a long trip.
Personally, I can't actually see any benefit whatsoever to "psychological" protection. You waste a bunch of time putting in something that isn't going to hold especially in May when time is of the essence getting up and down things early. I'm still thinking this must be a Coast Mountain thing. I never encounter people in the Rockies or Columbias using pickets - everyone just solos and makes sure they have a good ice axe belay and don't fall.
Do they teach this stuff in the BCMC? What is the psychological advantage?
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965 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 10:18 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by sandy
Do they teach this stuff in the BCMC? What is the psychological advantage?
Wouldn't think so. "Psychological advantage" wasn't part of the curriculum.
I've been up Pelion five or six times both summer and spring. We use a rope in summer for the glacier travel but never belayed the summit ridge. An ice axe and good boots are usually sufficient.
Was also wondering about the use of crampons. Seems a lot of people these days are wearing them for snow walking. I find them more of a liability under those conditions, what with snow compacting under them. |
Edited by - Stoked on 05/18/2012 10:23 AM |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1114 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 12:12 PM
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| Crampons....when jumping back and forth on either side of that ridge, I'd bet not every step was in soft compactible snow....I'd wear them over not wear them if I thought I'd be hitting the odd patch of hard stuff....just my opinion. |
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1073 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 12:33 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by sandy
I'm still thinking this must be a Coast Mountain thing.
Do they teach this stuff in the BCMC? What is the psychological advantage?
Please don't think that it's a Coast Mountain thing. I personally think that the idea of 'psychological pro' is a myth that wouldn't stand up to research. If you need pro and there is none available, tying yourself to another person is just about the worst thing you could do. If you are not comfortable soloing the terrain, do you really want to increase your exposure by wasting time with ropes and pro that essentially increase the likelihood of a negative outcome with a slip or fall? The only way being roped together would help in that situation is if the person who doesn't slip is fast and ballsy enough to jump over the other side of the ridge, but that's a serious manouver that I think few mountaineers could or would actually pull off. |
Edited by - Kid Charlemagne on 05/18/2012 12:34 PM |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1009 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 2:36 PM
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Ok I don't know why we are talking about whether this is a West Coast thing or a BCMC thing. It's neither.
Personally I would have solo'd the ridge up until the summit block. I didn't feel the section we started using protection on was any more exposed then the part of the ridge we'd just traversed unprotected. But if somebody wants to use pro and we have it and we have the time then I'm not going to say no.
I was aware that the pickets probably wouldn't hold so they weren't really a psychological advantage to me. I just knew falling wasn't an option.
The only place I felt we really needed protection was on the summit block, and Dean built a pretty good anchor on a chicken head and a pretty safe belay station directly before it.
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 3:16 PM
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This may be pedantic, but I think, in reality, y'all want to learn to solo such terrain. The belays are near useless, take up a bunch of time - 3 hours to travel 60 metres is a LONG time - increase your exposure to other hazards such as avalanches from daytime warming, someone pulling some-else down the mountain when the anchor fails, etc.
The reason I thought maybe they were a Coast Mountain thing is that I can't really recall ever seeing people using ropes, belays, axes, pickets, etc. etc. on such terrain under such conditions. I think most climbers think that the safest way to climb such things is solo. And, if someone in the group can't solo the terrain, they should go away and learn to solo on easier terrain then come back when they are more proficient.
I took my first mountaineering course almost 20 years ago and they weren't teaching this stuff even way back then, as boot axe belays and all that stuff had proven pretty useless long before.
But, this is just my opinion, which you can take or leave. Either way it is a great achievement and it looks like you all had a great day and worked well together as a team. Well done, again.
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
475 Posts |
Posted - 05/18/2012 : 11:02 PM
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Fantastic pics and the video is cool too |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1009 Posts |
Posted - 05/20/2012 : 11:11 AM
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Finally got the video done, a week later, complete with echoey indie music  :
https://vimeo.com/42443619 |
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Pelion Summit Success!
