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3 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 07:50 AM
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Hi all,
My husband and I are hoping to plan a trip to do the Sunshine-Assiniboine this summer and combine it with a trip to Banff/Jasper and maybe a day or two in Calgary.
I've been wanting to do a trip in the Canadian Rockies for a few years now. We're both pretty experienced hikers and have done some snow travel (A 3-day trip in Alaska in early June one year; the John Muir Trail in the Sierras in early June a few years ago.)
I'm just starting my research now. The trail sounds beautiful, although I've read it can be crowded. I have a few questions I was hoping some folks could answer:
* We were thinking of trying to got in late June, mainly because I read that they close a portion of the high trail for most of the summer due to grizzly activity. I've done some of those horse trails before and found that they're never as scenic as the high trail. Is this a good time to go? Would there be much snow and any part of the hike require an ice axe, crampons or even some light-weight stableicers? Would it be too late to get permits for late June or is that not peak season?
* Are you required to camp at the established campsites, with reservations, or can you opt out of that and just camp on a flat spot near the trail? If so, would people recommend bear canisters or is hanging food sufficient?
* I've never hiked with bear spray, even in Alaska and northern B.C., though I didn't encounter a bear on that particular hike. Would people recommend bear spray for this trip?
*I've read that transportation is a bit of a problem, especially at the Mt. Shark trailhead (and it sounds like the hike is better if you start at Sunshine rather than Mt. Shark because then it's a downhill at the least scenic spot at the end.) We'd have a car with us, but just one. I was thinking of trying to see if we could pay someone locally in Canmore to come with us while we park our car the day before at Mt. Shark (they can drive us back to town) and then we can take the shuttle to Sunshine the next morning and hike to the car. Does that sound doable?
That's it. Thanks very much!
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Calgary, Alberta
Andorra
3795 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 08:16 AM
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I'm not sure which high trail you mean. I don't normally hear about Assinniboine closing, just general bear awareness.
Late June is basically not doable. This is an area which really meets spring in early July. It would be snow travel the whole way, and a big part of the awesomeness of the trail is wildflower season and the meadows, which you miss if you come and snow-trek it all.
I would suggest early-July if you still want to get in before the main season. The flowers don't really make it out unti l mid- to late-July, so you're still ahead of the crowds.
It's probably possible to still get permits
The entire hike is within National Park, then Provincial Park, then Provincial Park, and you are required to camp at established campsites the whole time. Within Assinniboine Provincial Park, you can't get reservations for specific areas, so you just hike in and try to find your preferred campgrounds. They have an overflow camping as well. In the other parts, you'll have to plan where exactly you will be and reserve.
Random camping is not permitted within the parks, and in areas where it is okay (wilderness areas, some parts of Kananaskis), it is never considered acceptable to find a flat spot near a trail. Rules generally state that you must be 100m or so away from the trail to set up your site.
Bear spray is not a bad idea, but it's up to you. The important part, of course, is just making sure the bears know you're around so you're less likely to have a problematic encounter.
It seems plausible that you could get a canmoreite to do the shuttle with you. Is there a bus to Sunshine from Canmore?
It's always worth it to do a day on the Icefields Parkway and stop to look at things. I can't think of anything worth seeing in Calgary. If you're just here to visit, I'd stay in the mountains and put your day or two to better use. |
Edited by - Rachelo on 05/04/2012 08:23 AM |
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Kamloops, British Columbia
Canada
149 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 08:40 AM
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Did the hike from Sunshine to Assiniboine last year. Caught a chopper back to Canmore and arranged a ride back to Sunshine from there to pick up the truck. There is a shuttle that will take hikers up to the top from the village below. Don't miss the shuttle as the climb up the road would suck to say the least.
Consider booking a flight out - the hike back will extend your trip (and wouldn't be all that fun) and the beauty of Assiniboine are the day hiking/scrambles that abound from the core area.
July, August and early Sept would be the best time to go...as Rachelo mentioned the area would still potentially have a lot of snow in June.
Take bear spray - this is certainly bear country.
The provincial park system does not do reservations - some of the camps were busy. Always camp in designated camps/tent pads to minimize impact on the area, unless you have no other choice.
The start of the hike from Sunshine is scenic but you quickly descend. To Assiniboine core is around 30km so plan accordingly. As experienced hikers - we made it to Ogg Lake with full packs and were ready for a rest to say the least.
Enjoy! |
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3 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 10:29 AM
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Thanks so much for the advice. July is out because of other commitments, so it would have to be August or early Sept. I imagine August would be pretty busy. Good to know you don't have to actually reserve the campsite, just try to find a spot.
ph0n3y where did you catch the helicopter? I was trying to avoid the helicopter because of cost, but might consider it because it sounds like transportation back to Canmore is a bit of a pain. I had read there was a bus from Canmore to Sunshine and a shuttle (by the same company I think?) to the ski area to skip the climb up the road. We were thinking of leaving arranging to leave a car at the Mt. Shark trailhead.
One other question: I read the trip is 55km, though I guess that depends on where you go and what side trips you take. We've covered 30km in a day, full packs incl. water (covered 50+ but only when needed), but that doesn't really leave much time for taking in the sites, which seems like the point of the trip to the Rockies.
I think we'd have anywhere from 3-5 days for the trip. What are the best side trips we can do in that time? Sounds like there are quite a few.
Thanks again for the help!
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Kamloops, British Columbia
Canada
149 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 11:16 AM
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We hiked in from Sunshine to the core. The chopper flies back from the core/lodge area back to Canmore.
We arranged a ride from the helicopter company back to Sunshine with a relative living in Canmore - so we had an easy time getting back to the vehicle at Sunshine. Not sure about bus etc from Canmore to Sunshine but I imagine there are options.
Wonder Pass and climbing Wonder Peak (scramble) was definitely a good day trip. If feeling adventurous and properly equipped - once at the top of Wonder Peak you can do a ridge walk around back towards the core area.
The Nub is also a great day trip and provides some amazing views.
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Edmonton, AB
89 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 11:25 AM
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My wife and I did this from the opposite direction a few years back in early August. We took the Shark Mountain helicopter to Lake Magog, and we stayed at the campground for three nights. We then hiked out to Sunshine, staying overnight at Porcupine Campground. This way, you do not need to worry so much about the weight of the food that you bring, and your packs will be much lighter on the hike out. The cost of the helicopter was $150/person, but I think that it might be $160 now.
We planned to do three day trips from the campground: Wonder Pass, Nub Peak and Windy Ridge. We did not get to Windy Ridge due to rainy weather one day, so we explored around Lake Magog instead. I would highly recommend these side trips. Nub Peak is an easy scramble and there is a goat track all the way so no route finding should be necessary.
We took bear spray. We didn't use it, but we did have a bear encounter. We came within 50 meters of a sow Grizzly at work digging out a ground squirrel right beside the hiking trail. She turned her head and glared at us and then went back to digging. We backed off and hiked back half a kilometer. We waited half an hour and then started out again once we heard from hikers coming from the opposite direction that she had wandered off with three cubs. I had my bear spray out and the safety off as we hiked back along the trail, but did not see any sign of them.
We really enjoyed the hike through the Valley of the Rocks just north of the Ogg Lake campground. The whole side of the mountain came tumbling down about 9000 to 10,000 years ago. If I were to do it again, I might try to fit in a scramble up Citadel Peak.
The biggest challenge is the logistical problem of dropping off your vehicle at Sunshine and getting to the Shark Mountain helipad.
Here is a link to some photos: https://picasaweb.google.com/107244175910008147135/MtAssiniboineToSunshine |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
1195 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 12:29 PM
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A lot of people hike in from Sunshine. It's supposed to be really pretty. Personally, I can't see it being better than actually being at the base of Assiniboine. With that in mind, my girlfriend and I paid $150 each (includes 40lbs of gear/person) to fly in from the Mt. Shark trailhead.
That gave us more time in the area and we did:
Sunburst Peak (Tricky scrambling and route finding)
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40138
Nub Peak (I don't know that I would consider this a scramble, it's more of a hike)
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40146
Mount Cautley (Also more of a hike than a scramble)
http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40186
Nub Peak is a must, it gives you a great view. I also highly recommend Mt. Cautley because it gives you a much different view from Nub peak.
Lots of people hike back to Mt. Shark via Wonder Pass, but there was lots of snow when we did it and we took the shorter way back. Hiking back felt quite long. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Andorra
3795 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 12:41 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by tamsinrm
Thanks so much for the advice. July is out because of other commitments, so it would have to be August or early Sept. I imagine August would be pretty busy. Good to know you don't have to actually reserve the campsite, just try to find a spot.
Just note that that is only for the Provincial Park. If you are spending one night on the way in, that will be in Banff National Park and require a specific reservation.
The Sunshine Meadows are gorgeous, and the scenery on the way in there would be worth a backpack even if Assiniboine wasn't your destination. I can see the value of the helicopter to cut out one end of the walk, but I'd cut out the Mount Shark side, and enjoy the Sunshine trek in. |
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877 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 1:30 PM
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I think it's the Allenby Pass area that gets closed later in the season, but I'm not sure.
If you're going to take the bird one direction, take it on the way out. The anticipation and view towards Assiniboine when hiking from Sunshine is what it's all about. |
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3 Posts |
Posted - 05/04/2012 : 2:48 PM
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Thanks all for the advice and suggestions, that's great.
We might skip the helicopter due to cost, though that would cut a day out of the side trips. Anyway, thanks again for the suggestions and the photos are so spectacular! I definitely want to do this trip.
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 05/05/2012 : 05:18 AM
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It's interesting to me that you hiked in Alaska and BC without bear spray but are considering it now. Don't worry too much about bears...they get a lot of hype in the Rockies, but they aren't in abundance. Some people hike in the Rockies, for a very long time and never see a Grizzly.
That's not to say bear spray is a bad idea of course! It's up to you to decide what you're comfortable with. In the end, bear populations are, I believe, pretty low in the Rockies....a lot of areas in BC, Alaska...especially at the coast, are much higher in bear density.
Anyways, whether you take it or not, don't worry about bears. Just know how to be bear smart, and if you see any, leave them completely alone, and have a great time! :-) |
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Calgary, Alberta
Andorra
3795 Posts |
Posted - 05/05/2012 : 6:45 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by DCIPHER
In the end, bear populations are, I believe, pretty low in the Rockies....a lot of areas in BC, Alaska...especially at the coast, are much higher in bear density.
I don't think the range as a whole is all that relevant so much as small areas. There are many places in the Rockies where I'd be completely blown away to hear a bear was nearby, and others where I'd be somewhat surprised if one wasn't nearby.
The Rockies as a whole might not be very bear-dense, but the Sunshine-Assiniboine area is known for bears hanging around. Not that I think it's crazy to go there or anything, but it's an area where bear spray is advisable, even if the range as a whole isn't that dense.
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 05/05/2012 : 7:53 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Rachelo
quote:
Originally posted by DCIPHER
In the end, bear populations are, I believe, pretty low in the Rockies....a lot of areas in BC, Alaska...especially at the coast, are much higher in bear density.
I don't think the range as a whole is all that relevant so much as small areas. There are many places in the Rockies where I'd be completely blown away to hear a bear was nearby, and others where I'd be somewhat surprised if one wasn't nearby.
The Rockies as a whole might not be very bear-dense, but the Sunshine-Assiniboine area is known for bears hanging around. Not that I think it's crazy to go there or anything, but it's an area where bear spray is advisable, even if the range as a whole isn't that dense.
That's fair enough. The Rockies, with so much alpine, are probably particularly prone to have small groupings. Again....I still would call bear spray very optional, but as you said earlier, it's up to them to decide what they are comfortable with. I certainly don't advise AGAINST it!
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Salmon Arm, BC
Canada
894 Posts |
Posted - 05/07/2012 : 4:11 PM
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A bit late on the response (I was in Hawaii) but here goes:
You've made a great trip choice...and good to revise your dates. I've hiked Sunshine on July 6 and the meadows were in full bloom, but this year that won't happen what with the near-record snowpacks and cool spring.
And if you have to delay until September, go at the end of the month to catch the larch in colour. Unbelievable!
Maybe I'm gettin' old, but I like to hike downhill...between that and the scenery, my suggestion for this trip is to go in via Sunshine and out via Wonder Pass (with a quick off-trail jaunt to a viewpoint above the pass) to Mt Shark. Or else return to Sunshine so you don't have to carshuttle. Let the bus do most of the uphill for you, it's worth the $20!
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Edited by - pmjwright on 05/07/2012 4:13 PM |
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78 Posts |
Posted - 05/08/2012 : 07:50 AM
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Sounds like a great trip. Come when you can, and don't worry about "crowding" - once you are out of the immediate vicinity of the dayhikers at both ends you won't find it busy.
I agree - skip Calgary and explore some more of the parks!
Re: bearspray - please bring some. Do you have house insurance? Risk of an encounter is extremely remote, but worth packing a deterrent for the sake of both you and the bear.
Have fun! |
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1078 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 03:54 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by caribou
Sounds like a great trip. Come when you can, and don't worry about "crowding" - once you are out of the immediate vicinity of the dayhikers at both ends you won't find it busy.
I agree - skip Calgary and explore some more of the parks!
Re: bearspray - please bring some. Do you have house insurance? Risk of an encounter is extremely remote, but worth packing a deterrent for the sake of both you and the bear.
Have fun!
Oh good grief.....please don't let the ridiculous "house insurance" argument proliferate! |
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78 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 07:54 AM
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With all due respect - what's ridiculous? As I said, tiny chance of something going wrong, with high consequences.
I'd also add its the responsible thing to do in a National Park where there are already too many human-caused bear deaths and its your responsbility to do what you can to avoid a negative encounter.
If someone gets mauled, chances are, a threatened species will be destroyed. If you could prevent this through packing a small can of bearspray, why not? |
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1097 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 08:24 AM
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I hiked Sunshine to Assiniboine and then out to Canmore last year and we had a great time. It is a pretty easy trek but the eye candy is incredible.
With respect to bears, we encountered 4 grizzlies in 3 separate incidents over a two day period. There were side trails that were off limits because of bear activity. Not to scare you in any way but bring bear spray.
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High River, (just south of Calgary eh!), Alberta
Canada
1702 Posts |
Posted - 05/09/2012 : 08:48 AM
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| A possible issue for any national parks trip is a bear closure. In 2005 I used the Sunshine trailhead to access the Ball Range traverse (the opposite direction from going to 'Boine) and they let us go but anyone going south were being turned away. There had been an incident and parks was allowing time for the bears to settle down without any hikers to interfere. The staff told us those caught midway were being choppered out. It never hurts to have a plan 'B'. |
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Sunshine-Assiniboine
