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Vancouver, BC
Canada
35 Posts |
Posted - 03/29/2012 : 7:34 PM
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I'm looking for some advice in buying mountaineering boots. I signed up a few weeks ago for the CWMS mountaineering essentials course, and am finding I have a lot of questions and also that there is not a lot of selection in Vancouver for different brands.
1. Generally are you able to get away with using the same boot from approach to summit with peaks under 10,000ft in the late spring, summer and fall - coast mountains / cascades?
2. For multi-day trips in the same terrain as above, any tips on keeping the boots warm and dry on colder nights (something I'm sure I'll be in for on the 4 days for the course in early June)? Do people ever use similar liners found in double layer boots in a single layer boot to increase the warmth / drying ability?
3. Best fit for me so far at MEC were the Scarpa Mont Blanc and the Scarpa Triolet... I'm wondering what the Mont Blanc would be like on the trail for the approach (for instance up Wedgemount lake if you were planning on doing Wedge Mtn) or is that a 2 boot situation? Triolet felt good but not too far off from my hiking boot (just more waterproof and crampon compatible) - i'm wondering where a boot like that tops out?
4. Any other stores to check out in Vancouver or North Van for different brands? Seemed like the only stores on broadway were MEC and Valhalla (only two lower end boots there)
5. Relatively new to Vancouver too, so any cross border shopping tips? Never been to the REI there and I saw the American Alpine Institute store has a few brands of boots in their shop (Kayland).
Ah, and while I'm at it, if you're a size 10 and wanting sell a pair, I'd love to connect 
Thanks! |
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
183 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 09:12 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by darrylaugustine
I have the Scarpa Mont Blancs. Only had them for a short while but I'll try and answer your questions.
1. Generally are you able to get away with using the same boot from approach to summit with peaks under 10,000ft in the late spring, summer and fall - coast mountains / cascades?
With the more flexible (non-double plastic) mountaineering boots you can easly take them from start to finish. They do take a bit more time than regular hike boots to break in and it takes a while to get used to the total lack of flexibility in the sole. I've done 17km single day trips in my Scarpas and not had any issues with the boot (small blister from the super feet insoles). Where they as comfortable as my regular hikers? No, but they were still comfortable.
2. For multi-day trips in the same terrain as above, any tips on keeping the boots warm and dry on colder nights (something I'm sure I'll be in for on the 4 days for the course in early June)? Do people ever use similar liners found in double layer boots in a single layer boot to increase the warmth / drying ability?
Any of the mountaineering boots will stay warmer and dryer by default. Bring them inside the tent at night.
3. Best fit for me so far at MEC were the Scarpa Mont Blanc and the Scarpa Triolet... I'm wondering what the Mont Blanc would be like on the trail for the approach (for instance up Wedgemount lake if you were planning on doing Wedge Mtn) or is that a 2 boot situation? Triolet felt good but not too far off from my hiking boot (just more waterproof and crampon compatible) - i'm wondering where a boot like that tops out?
As mentioned I've taken mine hiking into Garabaldi Lakes area just a few weeks ago. Did over 17km in one day in them. I found the boot really comfortable. The only exceptions is that I did get a small blister one foot around my arch. I have flat feet and the Superfeet insole seemed to be a bit much for such a long single day hike. A little more break in time and they'll be sweet.
4. Any other stores to check out in Vancouver or North Van for different brands? Seemed like the only stores on broadway were MEC and Valhalla (only two lower end boots there)
MEC has the best selection. I tried on a bunch at MEC and ended up picking mine up from Valhalla in Abbotsford. The main brands for mountaineering boots are going to Scarpa or La Sportiva. LS has a much narrower fit than Scarpa. Lowa, Asolo and Kofalch have some good offerings, but I'm not that familiar with them. Mammut is another option. I have their hiking boots and love them. The Mamook GTX is a solid boot. Nearest place to find them is Feathered Friends in Seattle. They're lighter then both the Nepal's and the Mont Blancs. You sacrifice some warmth with them though. Unless you have issues with cold feet they'd be warm enough for most shoulder season stuff here and they'd be good for going up Mt. Rainier in the summer (popular with some of the guides out of Seattle) but might be a git too light or cool for winter ascents or anything higher than Rainier. They also make a Mamook Thermo which is a warmer version. Couldn't find anyone that actually carries them though. For longer trips when you're going to be sitting around camp for extended periods look at picking up some down booties (North Face, MTN Hardware), they're pretty nice to have. They'll keep your feet nice and toasty and give your feet a break from the boots.
5. Relatively new to Vancouver too, so any cross border shopping tips? Never been to the REI there and I saw the American Alpine Institute store has a few brands of boots in their shop (Kayland).
I bought mine locally. The price difference wasn't big enough for me to go across the boarder. The Mont Blancs had everything I wanted and fit really nicely so I didn't try on too many other brands or pairs. It was down to them or the Nepals. Those two are probably the most widely used. Great construction. Awesome features. They both have really good versatility. They might be a bit overkill for doing basic mountaineering up through the 10,000' to 12,000' range but I would rather spend a little extra and know they're not going to hold me back. I also want to get into ice climbing and they'll work well for that too.
Ah, and while I'm at it, if you're a size 10 and wanting sell a pair, I'd love to connect
Check out the gear swap on MEC's website.
(http://www.mec.ca/Apps/outdoorGearSwap/gearswap_listing_Climbing.jsp?OUTDOOR_GEARSWAP_FILTER%3C%3Eregion_cd=BC&bmForm=outdoorGearSwap&bmFormID=jpvLsj6&bmSubmit=OUTDOOR_GEARSWAP_FILTER%3C%3Eregion_cd)
Thanks!
Happy shopping Darryl and let me know when you're ready to head out!
-Russ
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Edited by - rustysheep on 03/30/2012 09:43 AM |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
35 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 09:59 AM
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Thanks Russ, I just saw your direct email now.
I'm leaning towards the Mont Blanc as well, and I'm pretty sure I've seen trip reports with people wearing them too on peaks I'd eventually like to do.
I've been keeping an eye on the MEC boards and craigslist of course too. And hoping a deal will come up as I'm not in a huge rush yet.
That said this boot below (Salomon - leather) came up on one of my searches out of the Vancouver area used but I haven't been able to find much info on it.
Anyone own this type? It must be a few years back at least.
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Edited by - darrylaugustine on 03/30/2012 10:00 AM |
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156 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 10:09 AM
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| Another store you could check is AJ Brooks. They are pricy boots there but good lord! I got my Meindls there and they are BEST boots i've ever worn and I wear mine for work day in and day out. Well worth the investment as they actually lasted a whole season without any rips or holes (I'm really hard on my gear). |
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
183 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 11:07 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by leftcoaster81
Another store you could check is AJ Brooks. They are pricy boots there but good lord! I got my Meindls there and they are BEST boots i've ever worn and I wear mine for work day in and day out. Well worth the investment as they actually lasted a whole season without any rips or holes (I'm really hard on my gear).
Meindl makes some fantastic boots. They don't have much to choose from in the mountaineering side though. They have only one pair that's crampon compatible. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
1198 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 12:06 PM
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| check sierratradingpost.com for good mountaineering boot deals. I had come across a pair on there for $150 (after coupons) that was priced at $400 at Atmosphere |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 3:59 PM
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quote:
2. For multi-day trips in the same terrain as above, any tips on keeping the boots warm and dry on colder nights (something I'm sure I'll be in for on the 4 days for the course in early June)? Do people ever use similar liners found in double layer boots in a single layer boot to increase the warmth / drying ability?
I have Mont Blancs and Triolets. Triolets will take you to Wedge summit comfortably (i hope you wont descent in them on SW side since rock will maybe ruin them). They look so fragile, but people online claims they are strong.
I have wider feet and this was my choice. Both boots could be 4 seasons boots but I was planing to take Mont Blancs for more stationary activity (like ice climbing). They are made on same last as Scarpa Cumbre.
If cold, as Russ said, overnight take boots with you in the overbag or tent or in your bag.
Second portion of this question is not really clear?
If you like to put liner from double boot in single boot, you have to then size up your single boot few sizes? It will be challenging to do proper fit then.
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Edited by - Zoran on 03/30/2012 4:01 PM |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3509 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 6:29 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by darrylaugustine
1. Generally are you able to get away with using the same boot from approach to summit with peaks under 10,000ft in the late spring, summer and fall - coast mountains / cascades?
I hiked to the base of Mt. Robson with a massive pack on wearing my full-shank very-stiff Salomon SM Experts. (no longer made...) It's more than possible to hike great distances in a full-on mountaineering boot if they FIT PROPERLY and are well broken in. GO FOR FIT.
quote:
Originally posted by darrylaugustine
2. For multi-day trips in the same terrain as above, any tips on keeping the boots warm and dry on colder nights (something I'm sure I'll be in for on the 4 days for the course in early June)? Do people ever use similar liners found in double layer boots in a single layer boot to increase the warmth / drying ability?
I almost always bring my big boots into the tent as I'm paranoid about rodents gnawing on them. I like non-Gore-Tex lined leather boots, as the first half hour of hiking/climbing has them warm. Dry the footbeds out. I've found dry socks way more important than dry boots. I have a light stuff sack to put my boots in for the tent to keep my other gear clean/dry. I preserve my sleeping bag ahead of anything else...
If you're going to spend many trips multi-day on glaciers where you'll be in/on snow 24/7 for days on end, consider a double boot or really burly single. Some are pricey, but being able to sleep in the liners is good, and then boots are warmer and more weather resistant than single boots. Suck on approaches though! (Though I have done 50km in my doubles, it wasn't the most pleasant experience...)
quote:
Originally posted by darrylaugustine
3. Best fit for me so far at MEC were the Scarpa Mont Blanc and the Scarpa Triolet... I'm wondering what the Mont Blanc would be like on the trail for the approach (for instance up Wedgemount lake if you were planning on doing Wedge Mtn) or is that a 2 boot situation? Triolet felt good but not too far off from my hiking boot (just more waterproof and crampon compatible) - i'm wondering where a boot like that tops out?
If I'm climbing, I tend to go for climbing boots and just grin and bear it for a long approach. I prefer full-shank boots that are full-auto crampon compatible, even for climbs that might be mostly trudges. But, that's me. I wear insulated boots in the summer to deal with my cold feet, and even stomping up glaciers, like solid (but leather) boots. I like that you're concerned about FIT. Yup, get a good fitting pair of boots, and you'll be happier no matter what brand/type they are. |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 10:09 PM
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Frankly, I don't know anyone that carries around a second pair of boots. Sounds like a very heavy (non)solution. So, yes you can wear the same boots for the hike in and the climb. A lot of people go for a full steel shank, but that can be really overkill and a full nylon shank can work just as well.
I am not sure how you would fit a liner from a double plastic boot inside a single leather boot. Back in the day, people used to use super-gaitors but I don't know if you can even buy them any more that easily.
Why not get some leather boots, waterproof them well, wear gaitors and suck it up if your boots get a bit wet after a few days?
I am not a fan of crampons that have a bail at front and rear, 'cos within a few months, if you do a lot of climbing, you wear the front rand down so much your crampons don't stay on anymore. Plus, if you have strap on crampons you can wear them on your approach shoes on days you want to go light. |
Edited by - sandy on 03/30/2012 10:10 PM |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
874 Posts |
Posted - 03/30/2012 : 10:21 PM
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You will get a lot of personal opinions on this forum so it may be difficult to decide what is best.
My preference is double layer plastic boots. They are almost always dry, extremely tough, warm, and you can dry the inners by placing them in your bag at night. They also offer much more ankle support which can be important when carrying big packs over rough ground. And you can rely on them to smash footholds into recalcitrant slopes where softer boots would fold.
However, you may look a bit Frankenstien-ish on easy summer trails and they can be a bit too warm on a hot day. |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2012 : 07:34 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by weedWhacker
You will get a lot of personal opinions on this forum so it may be difficult to decide what is best.
Very true, some of which, might seem bizarre, like: "(i hope you wont descent in them on SW side since rock will maybe ruin them).
Duh, aren't mountaineering boots meant to withstand walking on rock??
These days people are going with much lighter boots than back in the day when we all staggered about in heavy Koflachs. In retrospect, there seems little to recommend heavy double boots when lighter boots do the job as well, if not better, particularly if there is any technical rock - or even semi-technical - rock on the route as well. My double boots have been sitting on a shelf in my basement for years, and I haven't missed 'em. |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2012 : 08:18 AM
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It's bizzare to you but I still stand behind this statement.
Problem is scree on the Sw side of the Wedge. Rock is sharp and Triolet's have tiny sole (compared to Mont Blanc). Price of the boots? 355$. If you take Triolets on several trips like that, they could last one season only.
If you are financially solid, you will buy new ones. If you are hartless bastard you will bring them back to MEC when you ruin them, and say they don't fit very well. They will give you money back.
This Scarpa model is not for that side of the mountain but is perfect if you reverse Arete and solid if you hike up Wedgemount trail. Now they introduced Rebel model (with Ueli Steck as advisor) and same thing. They are for clean European style mountaineering, not for BC.
However, they have Fuego model whis is perfect for that crap. If they have Manta again, that would be awesome. Manta is available in Great Britain only.
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Edited by - Zoran on 03/31/2012 08:19 AM |
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Squamish, BC
Canada
70 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2012 : 10:09 AM
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Those Salomon boots are fantastic. I climbed all trough BC, Scotland, Wales, France, & Italy with mine, and still use them in the winter out here. Now I mostly rock LaSportiva Trangos. If they fit, & are cheap, jump on them.
If you are going to be in the snow For multiple days (with any leather boot), you can always use a full over gaiter with a rubber rand (OR, berghaus, sportiva all make models). |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
35 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2012 : 1:59 PM
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Thanks for all the advice!
I'm going to try to get to Seattle & Bellingham to try on a few other brands for comparison soon.
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2012 : 5:16 PM
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This is always a good plan.
But don't expect a lot of options at REI in Bellingham. If it's true that the best fit was Scarpa Mont Blanc, you have a wider feet. This is not good news, since there is no a lot of options for us.
People with narrow feet have La Sportiva, Zamberlan, Millet, Kayland, Mammut (former Raichle) and many more ... But we have Scarpa and that is all.
I tried a lot of this boots and no luck. Find the best fit and you will not regret it. |
Edited by - Zoran on 03/31/2012 5:17 PM |
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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1008 Posts |
Posted - 03/31/2012 : 6:01 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by darrylaugustine
Thanks for all the advice!
I'm going to try to get to Seattle & Bellingham to try on a few other brands for comparison soon.
Like everything it's an iterative process. You may like some features of whatever boots you purchase, you may also dislike some features. You might luck out though and like your boots wholly until you realize some new boots have a feature you didn't know you couldn't live without.
I use Scarpa Mont Blancs. I love them for snow and ice. They have front and rear welts so they make putting on and taking off crampons a breeze. I hate them for approach trails in the trees and boulder hopping. You can't "feel" the terrain with them due to their thick, full shank sole. I descended the SW face of Wedge in them and cursed every step.
I look forward to switching back to my Scarpa Kailash boots in the Spring with strap on crampons for snow fields/glaciers.
Pro Tip: Follow the manufacturers advice and maintain them. Don't let mud and dirt dry into them for weeks, and if the waterproofing breaks down clean the nubuck with a stiff bristled brush and reapply the water repellent. I didn't do this with my Kailash boots for the first year and the leather is hard and dry and the seams are busting open. I've been doing it religiously with my Mont Blancs and they still look like new boots.
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80 Posts |
Posted - 04/19/2012 : 08:28 AM
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My feet are happy with La Sportiva's. My first mountaineering boots were Kayland. I remember using them on Baker and Cerise for the course and I felt so miserable as my feet were wet and cold all the time.
I don't see a lot of people use approach shoes here. I use my Nepal Evo for all around mountainerring trips.
My friend bought them for me in Europe and I do my shopping online and have them shipped out in the border.
try spadout.com |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
20 Posts |
Posted - 04/19/2012 : 6:28 PM
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Hi Darryl.
I am using Scarpa Mont Blank, and like them very much. Have been hiking for over 15 years and they are the best I have found. Use them for all trips, summer and winter, from a couple hours to 6 days on the trail and never any issue. Always feel fine after 14+ hours of walking. If they are the right fit, there is no break-in required.
It is actually my second pair of them- first pair lasted some 10 years with weekly hiking, replaced the soles 3 times, I think, in that time. Did 77 peaks last year and aiming for 100 peaks for 2012.
As for stores, MEC has an excellent return policy, lots of choice (usually) and we have spent a lot of money there!
Happy mountains!
MtnJohn, Calgary, Alberta
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Mountaineering boot advice - beginner
