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| piika
Intermediate Member
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
726 Posts |
Posted - 12/25/2011 : 7:21 PM
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"And what's at Orcas Island?"
"Hiking and camping," I tell the U.S. border guard.
I see his expression change and I wince in anticipation of the inevitable response: an incredulous, "By yourself?!!"
"Yep"
Then the dismissive shake of the head, the handing back of the passport and the ensuing silence that means I'm free to go.
On I drive through Bellingham and Burlington, then swing west on the 20 heading for lands end. I pass the Perfect 10 Espresso hut, where the barista's wear bikinis, and stop off at the gas station by the Swinomish Casino to fuel up on gas and other liquids. The nearby firework stands are open, sporting names like Kaboohm, Toys for Big Boys, Sons of Thunder and Sonic Boom Babes- but no fire power for me.
Soon enough, I'm in the ferry line-up at Anacortes listening to families chattering, license plates around me from far and wide.
We near Orcas Island and my mind flashes back to the last time I visited- I'm here to remember the good memories, to imerse myself in the goodness that was here. But I also have unfinished business. When I was here before I didn't get to hike Mt. Constitution and it's still calling my name.
Mt. Constitution lies in Moran State Park on the east side of Orcas and is the highest point on the San Juan Islands, at 2,409 ft. My destination tonight is the campground at Mountain Lake, but before I get there I stop in at the Lower Tavern in the nearby town of Eastsound, where I get "carded" for the third time today. A scan of the menu quickly reveals that fries are probably my best option here, but it's Happy Hour and they have Dechutes Jubelale in bottles and Alaska Winter Ale on tap for $3 each- who knew?
When I get to Mountain Lake, I see that this time I have the place all to myself. The water is turned off for the season so the sites are a deal at $12 a night, especially considering the day use for this park is $10- so an extra two bucks to camp is entirely worth it. I have my pick of spots on the treed peninsula, but still chose #132 and settle in for a seemingly never-ending dark night.
Sometime before dawn I hear the pitter of rain on the roof. I drift in and out and then finally decide it's time to drag myself outside. The last time I was here it was chilly with blowing snow and hiking plans were abandoned for comforts of the tent.
It's still raining as I start out at the trailhead behind the old cook shelter, but it's fairly warm, at least. It's a 7 mile loop from here: up to the top and back down via Twin Lakes. The trail winds upwards through the trees towards Little Summit, but knowing there'll be no views there I turn right and head on, bypassing the viewpoint. The forest is so vibrant- browns, oranges and greens so bright that they assault my senses, threatening to overwhelm and I blink my sore eyes. The rain starts to taper and the wind kicks up, knocking drips from the soggy trees. It's a gradual climb, but still my breath feels crushed in my chest.
   
Suddenly it becomes rockier, the trees smaller and the mist-filled chasm beside me tells me that I'm at a viewpoint. Back in the forest and out through lush, wet salal- this time the mist swirls and I catch a glimpse of the lake below, grasped in foggy tendrils. By the time I get to the stone observation tower at the top of Mt. Constitution, the ocean is partly revealed, though Mt. Baker in the distance is still covered in cloud. There's no dusting of white nor ice this time and I climb the tower, meeting people who drove the road to the summit and overhear a woman say, "Hey, look, you can see Canada from here!"
    
    
Spotting my next objective, Twin Lakes, I walk down and cross the parking lot to pick up the trail and continue the loop. A ranger had suggested to do the loop this way, clockwise, and I can see why as the trail heads steeply down a series of switchbacks. It's only here that I put on my headphones and and finally let myself listen to songs carefully chosen, sung raw and filled with emotion. I let myself flow with them as I follow the trail down and around the twin lakes, let myself match all the colours of the rainbow that permeate these songs. I come to the bottom and the juction of a loop around Mountain Lake. I had planned to head straight back to camp, but knowing I have nothing but time, I veer left towards the far side of the lake. The music continues and a phrase "hold on" echoes through my head: I'm trying.
  
Lost in my thoughts, I suddenly realize that I have gone astray- the path I'm following is rough with obstacles blocking my progress. Backtracking, I find I've missed a turn, a switchback heading up and over a cliff. Slowly the sun reveals itself and water droplets glitter on tree needles. By the time I finish the loop, the sun is out in earnest.
  
I come back to my camp and in the fractured sunlight notice a short length of rope in the dirt, left from my previous visit. I silently chastise myself, but then notice more imprints are still here: a trench scraped out in the soil, another length of rope, an errant grommet from a cheaply-made tarp, a rock placed on the table for a purpose I don't remember and a wine cork hiding beneath the picnic table's legs. How could I have been so careless? I collect the artifacts, twisting and tying the two pieces of rope in a never-ending loop.
 
As an owl hoots, the setting sun lights up trees, tinging them with orange that the water reflects. Then the surface temporarily changes to still white before the fish start to jump. Later, I watch blue flames lick hungrily over a presto log that stands in as a substitute for a yule log and I drink a cup of good cheer before giving in to the black night.
I wake Christmas morning to silence, the sound of my own breath the only thing breaking the stillness. I sleep some more, then am awakened by the sound of furious wind. Deciding that I had better get myself to a ferry before the seas get too rough, I pack up. A quick hike over to picturesque Rustic Falls and then I'm on the road, heading on.
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1448 Posts |
Posted - 12/25/2011 : 11:22 PM
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looks like excellent paddling weather ;(
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in the valley, BC
Canada
1456 Posts |
Posted - 12/28/2011 : 11:36 AM
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Beautifully written Piika. Thank you for sharing this trip with us.
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Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada
1085 Posts |
Posted - 12/28/2011 : 12:00 PM
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| Yes, a very well written report. Not everyone can spend a night alone outdoors like that. |
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Vancouver, bc
Canada
1008 Posts |
Posted - 12/28/2011 : 2:00 PM
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Thanks for the ride  |
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Chilliwack, BC
755 Posts |
Posted - 12/28/2011 : 4:12 PM
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Makes me want to go . . . maybe not on Christmas
Great narrative! |
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 Utah's canyon trekking,deck chair packing desert explorer who dreams of visiting Canada someday
3988 Posts |
Posted - 04/24/2012 : 10:38 AM
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Sonic boom babes... didja get your FREE HAT? hehe
I love your Misty Mtn Hop trek. the deer seems to be asking if you have any Doritos?
Gotta love Park Deer.
the intermittent views are a tease. Great pictures!
The moss on the felled trees is sooooo green. We don't get that shade O' green down here.
Hmmmm wonder what a "desert" leprechaun would look like? keepers of the green and all that.
And safely back to camp 132. Camp sweet camp.... I like the scattered sun after a rain.
Down here, our sun, as you know arrives with a huge splash. Like tugging on a blind and..
snap!! Daylight!
that lake is like a stillpond. toss a small stone out in the middle and watch the waves reverb all the way to your feet... Merry Christmas!
I HAVE to go on a small hike each Christmas day as it tends to re-ground me after all the
crazy festivities and shopping.
Great read. You write nice.
cheers!
jerry |
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Christmas at Orcas Island
