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Squamish, British Columbia
Canada
1008 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 10:11 PM
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Thar peak the right, taken from Zoa. The couloir we took leads up from the lower right
Adriens GoPRO video from the climb: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inn7OK09swoog
My bog standard HD video from the climb: http://vimeo.com/33472356
Probably could of made this less verbose but ah well. Last Wednesday, with the forecast for the weekend looking amazing, AdrienBC sent an email around to myself, Springbow and bcroadtrip proposing we overnight near Zoa Peak, bag Zoa Peak then bag Thar the next morning via the couloir on its north face. Apart from the long drive for myself and Spring from Squamish it all sounded excellent. We could also go in our little Hyundai 2WD to save on gas.
Zoa ridge was actually myself and Springs first foray into winter camping last year with AT and Spunkys New Year Party. We’d stopped short of the main summit that time due to avy conditions. So revisiting that peak and getting some mountaineering experience in as well seemed like a great way to spend the weekend.
Anyway, Saturday morning at 4:30am myself and Spring where up and getting ready (it’s great when you get your “lie in” Monday to Friday rather than on the weekends). We left shortly after 5:30am and picked Adrien up around 7am. We all had doubts at this point if we could pack 4 people, 4 overnight packs, 2 Ice Axes, 6 Ice tools, 4 pairs of snow shoes, 4 pairs of hiking poles, all our mountaineering racks... etc into our little Hyundai. We headed to Deans and tetris’d everything into the trunk and between our feet and somehow it just about all fit.
Off we went. We pulled into Chilliwack to gas up and ran into Scott (CT’r: smac) at the pump... small world. He was heading to Thar also... smaller world. Anyway from there we made good time to the TH for Falls lake and geared up and headed out. The initial plan was to camp at Falls lake but shortly into the hike before the summer parking lot Adrien and Dean decided to cut into the trees and serendipitously found an excellent camping spot with enough room for both of us to pitch our tents.
We pitched our tents, dumped any unneeded gear and headed for Zoa Peak. The plan was to bag Zoa Peak but in doing so also get some valuable beta on the conditions on the North Face of Thar, specifically the couloir we’d be climbing to the summit. It was actually pretty cloudy on the coq so we were unsure if we get any views at all, let alone of our objective for the following day. But sure enough, shortly before gaining the ridge we got above the clouds and the views opened up.
  
The hike to Zoas summit is pretty straight forward. Although I can understand why most stay at the subsummit, the main summit is treed and really has inferior views of the surrounding mountains. Once we were at the subsummit we investigated the north couloir and planned our ascent route. We also noticed the lake was entirely frozen and would probably be stable enough to cross (it probably hasn’t seen sunlight in over a month as it is shielded by the North Face of Thar) We headed to the true summit with a throng of skiers, had lunch then descended leisurely back to camp, filling up on water at a stream shortly before our camp.
   
2. Collecting Beta
3, 4. Our chosen route
   
2. Nak, Zopkios and Yak from the saddle between the sub and main summit of Zoa
   
3. Back in the clouds
1. Dean wiped out from his tough hike up Zoa, after this a peak above 6500m's he plans to climb will be a walk in the park :P
We dug out a kitchen, boiled some water, had dinner, chatted for a bit then turned in pretty early as it was getting cold. We woke up at the lazy time of ~6:40am and got moving shortly after breakfast. We broke a trail to the lake and arrived at it in about 10 minutes from the summer parking lot. We cut across the lake and then angled up as we came around to the base of the wide gully that leads up the north side of Thar.
 
We kept our snowshoes on as long as possible then we all transitioned into our crampons. I made the schoolboy error of keeping my snowshoes on until I needed to be in crampons. I had to cut a bench with my adz and awkwardly swap into my crampons in the middle of the slope. The going up the couloir was good, getting progressively steeper. The snow quality varied from punching through up to our knees near the start, to a firm névé with the consistency of styrofoam (awesome stuff, I wish every slope had this snow) to a sheet of ice/hard snow under a small skiff of snow.
   
We elected to not rope up for the ice section. I don’t personally see the point of roping up anyway without protection. All that is holding you to the face is the front two points on your crampons and the picks on your ice tools. If someone fell on that 50’+ slope they are pulling everyone else off with them like hairs on a bandaid.
   
We continued up, every few steps my calves would burn really bad from balancing on the front of my boots. Thankfully, a few swift kicks into the snow/ice would make a larger foothold to rest on. I can’t imagine climbing free solo on solid ice, I guess, as Adrien mentioned to me, you’d just have to put your weight on your tools to rest your legs.
Anyway, we eventually reached the crux, a section of mixed rock/ice that needed to be ascended. Dean led and placed a fixed rope with pro as he went. Kudos to him for that. Next myself and Spring prussik’d up the fixed rope then Dean belayed Adrien up.
   
After the crux it was a short climb on less steep snow to a spot a few meters below the summit. This short climb though has a pretty bad runout so even a short slip and slide could prove hazardous.
   
Once up and over the top we basked in the sun for the first time that day. It had been painful shivering on that slope as the rope was fixed and seeing the sun warming the South side of Zoa across from Falls Lake. We hung out on the summit until we got too cold then descended via the East Ridge (the normal ascent hike) It went quickly.
   
   
We broke camp when we got back, had some hot tea, then hiked back to the car. The crux then was to see if we could remember how we had fitted everything in the previous day. We eventually did and drove home with an amazing sunset ahead of us.
1. Thar bidding us farewell with a sendoff fireworks show
Overall a fine alpine route that we’d grade as probably AD. Recommended.
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Edited by - leimrod on 12/11/2011 10:34 PM
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 Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13466 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 10:26 PM
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Impressive Classic... Those sunset pics of Thar.
K |
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Outdoors addicted flyfishing, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking car crooner and resident motormouth
Da'Wack, BC
Canada
5372 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 10:33 PM
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Beautiful. |
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Van, BC
Canada
2793 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 10:40 PM
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Great climb, great pics :)
-Ryan
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Satirical photoshop junkie who frolics in the mountains of the Chilliwack River Valley
Chilliwack, BC
Canada
6908 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 11:03 PM
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| That's one badass closing sunset shot of Thar you have there. Thanks for posting a great TR |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
667 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 11:22 PM
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| Super. |
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362 Posts |
Posted - 12/08/2011 : 11:32 PM
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| Awesome stuff guys, love it! |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
41 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 06:29 AM
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Good job!!
Great report!!
Niice photo and video!!
All the best!!! |
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Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada
1089 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 07:09 AM
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| Fine tale of adventure, made my morning! |
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada
558 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 07:15 AM
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Very nice people! I always thought that looked like a cool line.
Did you notice any ice forming up on Thar while you were in there? |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
345 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 07:23 AM
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Awesome trip report! It was really a great climb with amazing conditions.
DPM: Ice is definitely forming up there but still very thin. I feel that the current cold snap might add the icing we need. |
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Chilliwack
1270 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 08:26 AM
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Awesome trip report! Laughed about loading up your Hyundai with 4 people and gear.
What is an AD grade? What other grades are there in these conditions? Thanks.
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4649 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 08:40 AM
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That's great! You two are really pushing yourselves . Kudos to you as you'll never see me doing a couloir that long and exposed  .
Great pics  |
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Popkum, BC
Canada
5887 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 08:45 AM
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| Impressive! |
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
283 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 10:52 AM
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| Nice cool shots. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1114 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 11:51 AM
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| Too bad I couldn't tag along. Great pictures and report Leigh! |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
949 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 1:42 PM
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| Niiiiiiiice! |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 4:55 PM
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Very  |
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505 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 6:25 PM
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What a great ascent! looks like a great day out had by all :-)
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Popkum, BC
Canada
5887 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 6:45 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Kanike
What is an AD grade? What other grades are there in these conditions? Thanks.
Inquiring minds would like to know. Enlighten us please? |
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canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru
Surrey Hole, BC
Canada
6788 Posts |
Posted - 12/09/2011 : 6:57 PM
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Is it that a trick camera you got, or took some lessons?
That route up looks killer if you lost it somewhere..
Good all around T/R ! |
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Topic |
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Thar Peak, NF Couloir: Dec. 2,3
