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9 Posts |
Posted - 12/03/2011 : 9:08 PM
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Bit of a lurker here, but wondering if someone can shed some light on this idea of mine... Every time i drive home from work Mt. Baker stares at me I would like to give it a go. That it would be a great accomplishment for me is an understatement. I've been reading about it online, and watching other people's videos on YouTube and it just looks like such a cool experience!
I've hiked all the popular stuff around the lower mainland (day hikes and over-nighters) but never ventured into anything requiring crampons or a "rope team". I do have a little bit of climbing experience, and experience working with climbing equipment but no experience in ice-climbing or crevasse rescue (though i don't think ice-climbing is required for baker really).
From what I read, going in mid to late May is the ticket to avoid having to deal with exposed glacier crevasses. Though it may not be possible to drive all the way up to the trail-head i hear...
The big obstacle (no pun intended) and possible deal-breaker, is that i don't have anyone willing to venture out with me. This is definitely too much for the folks i normally do over-night hikes with. So where would a person find a partner for something like this? On a site like this? CraigsList? (haha). It certainly doesn't sound easy to find someone you feel comfortable roping up with for a glacier climb ...
I've looked at a few guiding companies online but it isn't cheap, especially when they all want to give you a ride to the trail-head and cook for you while up there. I'd rather do those two myself and pay less for the trip. As a last resort, i might dish out the money and do a guided trip up, but would prefer to tackle it unguided.
Am I biting off more than I can chew thinking of doing Mt.Baker unguided and having no experience in such terrain?
Thanks :)
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Vancouver, BC Canada
1111 Posts |
Posted - 12/03/2011 : 9:35 PM
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Most will say: take a course or get some crevasse rescue practice in and some rope management. You know, the play it safe talk. It is good advice.
That said, I plan on giving Baker a go this year as well. I have no formal training but have been out a lot with people who do and have learned a lot from them.
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9 Posts |
Posted - 12/03/2011 : 10:13 PM
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Cool. Few questions for ya ... when were you planning on going? Do you have any special training regime you will follow to get prepared or no?
What kind of boots are you planning on wearing? Curious if i'll need to buy real mountaineering boots, or if my current boots with strap on crampons would work. I don't mind buying another pair of boots for this, but would rather go with something proven and well broken in lol. My boots of choice are MEINDL hunting boots. Been great to me, but they are definitely not the stiff (crampon ready) mountaineering type of boot.
Also, who are your partners on this journey and how/where did you meet/find them?
Thanks! :) |
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north van, bc Canada
940 Posts |
Posted - 12/04/2011 : 8:57 PM
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I went up last year with american alpine institute.
if you haven't used crampons / ice axe / ropes etc then I would go as a course. |
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Abbotsford, BC Canada
183 Posts |
Posted - 12/04/2011 : 9:00 PM
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I did in the summer with Mountain Madness... Well worth the cost to go do it with a guide. I did the 6 day course. You can do the 4 day trip that gives you basic training and they get up and down the mountain alive. ;)
Here's the trip report from my trip: http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40965 |
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vancouver, bc Canada
987 Posts |
Posted - 12/04/2011 : 10:17 PM
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| Or the 1 day trip is nice on skis, er splitboard;) |
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103 Posts |
Posted - 12/05/2011 : 12:11 PM
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| You might find that joining a club like the BCMC or ACC might be best since they offer courses in mountaineering and usually have a club trip to Baker sometime in the summer. Good luck. |
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salt spring island, bc Canada
179 Posts |
Posted - 12/05/2011 : 2:13 PM
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| I agree with loose overhang. Joining any of the clubs he mentions is a great way to experience new places, meet new people, share costs and pickup skills and confidence. After a season or two of learning the ropes, you'll probably be the one leading your old gang up to new heights. |
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9 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2011 : 12:01 AM
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thanks for all the replies and suggestions. I've read a few trip reports, but Google failed to bring up yours for some reason ... very nice pics.
I definitely won't be doing a 6 day thing. I simply don't have that kind of time with all my other hobbies and with only 10 days of vacation per year. If i do sign up, i think it will be one of those 3 day trips. We shall have to wait and see if i'm unable to find someone willing to head out with me unguided ... and who has maybe a little more experience than me lol.
BTW, out of curiosity what boots are people using for Baker? Does one have to get them rigid (solid shank, not necessarily plastic) mountaineering boots?
Thanks! |
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103 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2011 : 5:15 PM
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I would recommend proper mountaineering boots, but regular hiking boots will work as long as they keep your feet dry and warm; but gaiters are a must. Depending on conditions you might be able to climb it without crampons, but that is not likely. If you don't have much glacier travel experience go with a large party, at least four --- it is much safer.
Most parties take two days, but it is quite do-able in a day if you're fit and willing to get up early. If you choose to go on a summer weekend with a good weather forecast you'll find lots of people on it, so you should have no problem route-finding and more safety in numbers. That being said people have died on it on good days. |
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9 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2011 : 10:42 PM
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Cool. Thanks man! I am not a cheap guy and don't mind buying crampons nor mountaineering boots, i would just rather prefer my well proven, broken in ones for something like this. Yes they're gore-tex and gaiters etc i already have, but i wouldn't be doing this in the summer ... I would probably not be comfortable at all once the crevasses start to appear come summer time.
Basically i'm not much of a risk taker ... aside from the entire trip itself being a risk, obviously haha.
Ok, well i think the first two steps are to find three others interested ... while re-reading "Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills" :)
Thanks!
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9 Posts |
Posted - 12/11/2011 : 10:44 PM
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| Also ... i would probably be looking to do this as a two day - minimum trip, perhaps 3 if the group agrees. One day to camp. Second day summit. Third day back down ... or second summit attempt if weather etc deters us on the first try. |
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31 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2011 : 10:50 AM
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I agree with what everyone here has written. Get some training, learn to work some ropes, and most importantly get an ice axe. Once you have your ice axe learn to use it as a climbing tool and to self arrest in all four positions. have fun and be safe! |
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