| Author |
Topic |
|
Vancouver, BC
Canada
602 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 11:26 AM
|
I've been fascinated by this mountain ever since I first saw it some 20 years ago. First, there are classic tourist views:
 Seen from pullout on Icefields Parkway
 Calendar shot from foot bridge bellow Cavell Hostel
Few years ago I hiked behind the mountain to Verdant Pass to take a closer look in climber descent route. It didn't look more than a scramble from this point:
  
Finally this year I hiked up to the ridge above Cavell Meadows for clean shot of classic 5.3 East Ridge. This was my 6th time to the area, but before I always guided some visiting friends & never went beyond classic tourist loop:
   
1. Length of Astoria approach to Tonquin Valley near Cavell Hostel. I dayhiked this in 2006
2. Classic shot of Cavell Lake some 15 minutes above parking lot
3. Tongue of Angel Glacier from Cavell Meadows
4. Good look at access to the col leading to East Ridge
   
1, 2. End of maintained trail. Skyline ridge is about 40 minutes away
3. Hidden tarn on the other side of the ridge
4. Panoramic view of Icefields from the top
Variety of shots of East ridge. I circled in red what I believe is 5.3 crux:
   
It also looked feasible to continue along the ridge with only minor scrambling to the col, then descend climber access route. On the way down I made a detour to Cavell lake under Angel Glacier for couple of photos:
   
Finally, even if it can sometimes be tourist trap, this is such a spectacular area that should be on anyone list -- and crowds can be avoided just by heading a bit higher. My next Cavell project will be summit attempt from Verdant Pass.
|
|
Abbotsford, BC
Canada
14 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 12:27 PM
|
| Great shots, and I'd be interested to hear about whether the peak can be climbed as a scramble. Last time I saw Angel Glacier (1976 or so) its skirt reached down to the lake. Now it looks less like an angel and more like . . . I'm not sure of what, a diving bird maybe? |
|
|
Calgary
165 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 12:37 PM
|
Was this picture taken August 30th?
I can see why very few (if any?) people been up this ridge this year.
|
|
|
Canmore, AB
Canada
1238 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 12:52 PM
|
I was planning of climbing the E Ridge last weekend but had to abort due to the conditions.
My dream is to free solo the ridge but it won't be happening this year.  |
|
|
46 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 8:10 PM
|
Great Pics! I have been on that ridge above the meadows a couple of times this year and I surprised people don't go up there more often. It's an easy hike up...no scrambling involved...and you get a great view all the way down the Icefields Parkway.
When you went into Verdant pass, how far was it to get to the "climbers descent route" that you showed in your pictures? Did you try to climb it?
I have never been into Verdant Pass but am hoping to get there this fall, so I wanted to check it out.  |
|
|
Vancouver, BC
Canada
602 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 10:10 PM
|
Bill:
Image was taken on August 24 2011 -- I doubt it changed much in a week. Yes, it seems to be one of 'these' years both in B.C. and Alberta
Dante:
I firmly believe it is feasible as scramble from Verdant Pass. Getting up to the ridge is no problem -- just a steep scree grovel. I'd also be willing to try reaching the ridge sooner, as shown here:
 -- left side slope didn't look bad at all & appeared less steep.
The only part I could not tell is upper ridge:
 . Sean Daugherty book talks about "short, steep shale step before the summit" -- I think it might the nub in upper part of this photo.
Vicki:
I basically followed the trail through the meadows heading towards the cliffs till I hit scree cone and large cairn:
This was recon trip & I didn't think I could get any better views of the route so after break I went exploring a bit -- it is fabulous area! I found fairly large, beautiful tarn tucked further south:
 This by itself is very worthy day-hiking destination IMHO |
|
|
| gyppo
Intermediate Member
|
Edmonton, AB
Canada
745 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 10:14 PM
|
thanks for posting this Zeljok. I'm looking for a week-end destination from Edmonton next week-end and this looks like a contender!
Benoit |
|
|
| Engor
Intermediate Member
|
Calgary
838 Posts |
Posted - 08/30/2011 : 11:14 PM
|
| I'm told by several sources that Edith Cavell is nothing more than an easy-to-moderate scramble in ideal conditions (usually mid-to-late August). It has been on my list for a while - either conditions are not right or I'm busy with other things. Not this year, I guess. |
|
|
Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 08/31/2011 : 12:15 AM
|
quote:
Originally posted by zeljkok
Few years ago I hiked behind the mountain to Verdant Pass to take a closer look in climber descent route. It didn't look more than a scramble from this point:
There is a stream coming down where the snow patch is at the bottom, as shown in picture #2 above. Your red line touches on the stream. If you are on the climber's left of the stream, you would be cut off. The West ridge is not a continuous ridge. However, your red line appears to be right. I'll see if I can find the photos I took from the West ridge looking down at the parking lot and looking back down at the valley as shown in your above photos. Once you get on the west ridge, the route would be obvious to you. However, I am not so sure about this year, as the cornices were huge and I could hear them coming down even from the East ridge at the beginning of August this year.
quote:
Originally posted by zeljkok
Variety of shots of East ridge. I circled in red what I believe is 5.3 crux:
It also looked feasible to continue along the ridge with only minor scrambling to the col, then descend climber access route.
The quickest route to the East ridge is to go up the standard hiking route and follow it up a few switch backs on the hiking trail to the left side of the little ridge. Don't go straight on the right side of the ridge. Continue on the hiking trail on the left side and soon you can see a marker showing hiker's route and climber's route. Take the climber's route, but do not go up the ridge. Stay at the bottom of the valley and eventually you'll get to the meadow. Go up the boulders and scree. Turn left at the top of the scree and traverse over to the base of the East ridge. I was at the base of the East ridge and had a good look at the beginning of August, and realized it was not in shape, taking into consideration of the avy risk and the gear that I was carrying at the time (not winter mountaineering gear).
  
Looking back at the valley and the hiker's route.
 |
|
|
1078 Posts |
Posted - 08/31/2011 : 02:31 AM
|
quote:
Originally posted by billk
Was this picture taken August 30th?
I can see why very few (if any?) people been up this ridge this year.
That's what I was thinking...yikes.
Too bad Spicy :-( |
|
|
972 Posts |
Posted - 08/31/2011 : 09:25 AM
|
quote:
Originally posted by Engor
I'm told by several sources that Edith Cavell is nothing more than an easy-to-moderate scramble in ideal conditions (usually mid-to-late August). It has been on my list for a while - either conditions are not right or I'm busy with other things. Not this year, I guess.
maybe it is an easy-moderate scramble up the backside via the west ridge,but the east ridge has some climbing on it,i wouldn't call it a scramble at all...maybe an easy climb.
and jeez...its surprising how snowy it still is now,alot harder than when i did it a couple years ago. |
|
|
Vancouver, BC
Canada
602 Posts |
Posted - 08/31/2011 : 12:01 PM
|
quote:
The West ridge is not a continuous ridge. However, your red line appears to be right. I'll see if I can find the photos I took from the West ridge looking down at the parking lot and looking back down at the valley as shown in your above photos. Once you get on the west ridge, the route would be obvious to you.
I would appreciate that. I know this might be trivial, but I have couple of questions:
1.  Did you see any issues reaching the ridge via Mt. Sorrow, as indicated by the arrow? I know it wouldn't make sense going down this way, but it looked far less steep (and loose) for going up?
2. Quote from the book "The ridge to the W summit is quite narrow but straightforward. Just bellow the summit a short, steep shale step presents the barrier"
How narrow is narrow -- Can you compare it to something from Kane book, like Indefatiguable traverse?
Thanks much!
|
Edited by - zeljkok on 08/31/2011 12:54 PM |
|
|
972 Posts |
Posted - 08/31/2011 : 11:03 PM
|
^
i can't say for sure if your mt.sorrow route would work,from the picture it looks like maybe you can bypass any troubles on the out of view side of the mountain,but you never know for sure. It was a couple years ago when i climbed it and we were going fast,i didn't stop enough to get the scenery in my head.
As for the narrow spot in the ridge and the shale step,i can't remember having any problems descending it,i remember downclimbing moderate scrambling terrain at most and don't remember any really exposed spots,other than climbing up the east ridge.
hope that helps |
|
|
Powell River, bc
Canada
2527 Posts |
Posted - 09/01/2011 : 12:20 AM
|
| Fantastic pictures!!! Such a beautiful mountain from any angle :) |
|
|
Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/23/2011 : 11:07 PM
|
A photo looking down at approach to the West Ridge
A photo looking down towards the parking lot and entrance to the parking lot
Both photos were taken somewhere on the West Ridge.
1. I have never looked at the approach from Mt. Sorrow. So to answer your question, I don't know. But having been on the West Ridge, I don't think you can.
2. I don't know how narrow is narrow for you. I have climbed on top of a thin wedge of the top of the mountain, with one foot on one side of the wedge and the other on the other. In the meantime, every handhold comes with a chunk of rocks. It really depends on your comfort level.
Hope this helps.
quote:
Originally posted by zeljkok
I would appreciate that. I know this might be trivial, but I have couple of questions:
1. Did you see any issues reaching the ridge via Mt. Sorrow, as indicated by the arrow? I know it wouldn't make sense going down this way, but it looked far less steep (and loose) for going up?
2. Quote from the book "The ridge to the W summit is quite narrow but straightforward. Just bellow the summit a short, steep shale step presents the barrier"
How narrow is narrow -- Can you compare it to something from Kane book, like Indefatiguable traverse?
Thanks much!
|
|
|
Calgary, AB
Canada
101 Posts |
Posted - 09/24/2011 : 08:33 AM
|
I climbed the east ridge of Cavell over 25 years ago and there was snow on the route. I did it with a friend who had very little climbing experience. The rock is great and there were no desperate moves of any kind. There is significant exposure down the face but you are never dangling over that abyss. I recall the ridge being a series of steps. On the summit ridge you need to be aware of cornices overhanging the face and that includes descending the ridge to go down to Verdant Pass. We didn't set up any belays for descending and I remember it being a scree trundle with a few scramble sections.
That said I would strongly recommend teaming up with an experienced climber and, under the right conditions, tackle the east ridge rather than slog up thousands of feet of scree. The east ridge is an awesome climb that would be well within the capabilities of anyone confident in soloing "difficult" scrambles with exposure. Roped up with an experienced friend on the east ridge, you will do a climb you will always remember.
 summit of Edith Cavell |
Edited by - VicB on 09/24/2011 08:36 AM |
|
|
Calgary, AB
Canada
101 Posts |
Posted - 09/24/2011 : 09:07 AM
|
| I neglected to mention, if I were to climb the east ridge of Cavell again I would descend the same way, down climbing, not rapping. That would be way quicker, and a lot more interesting than the Verdant Pass descent. |
|
|
Vancouver
1808 Posts |
Posted - 09/24/2011 : 5:06 PM
|
I went up Edith Cavell about 20 years ago, by myself, via the climbers descent route. It's about as easy/difficult as the normal route on Mt. Temple.
Depending on the conditions, however, it could be too dangerous. The dangers mainly are: sufficient snow to avalanche on the traverse below the summit, the bit above the traverse being too icy or in avalanche conditions, and losing one's way along the summit ridge in fog/cloud. I recall taking an ice axe and crampons, and using them near the top. A very fine trip, and unlike Temple one that sees little crowding because with the east ridge nearby, few regard it as attractive.
So wait for good weather some time when the traverse has little or no snow on it. I don't think any of your pictures show the traverse, but the line of the path is easily visible from the meadows, and even more visible once you reach the ridge. My pictures of it are unscanned 35mm and stored away. |
|
|
Vancouver
Canada
45 Posts |
Posted - 09/24/2011 : 8:07 PM
|
| I've wanted to do the East Ridge for several years but never got around to it -- it's quite far away from Vancouver. Nice pics and inspiring for next year. I might even list it as a BCMC trip... |
|
|
Terrace, BC
957 Posts |
Posted - 09/24/2011 : 9:32 PM
|
Here's another view.
Worth a few bucks if you have one in mint condition.
 |
|
|
| |
Topic |
|
1000 Views of Mt. Edith Cavell
