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 Washington State
 Tomyhoi - Aug 7, 2011
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DoubleE Alpinist
Junior Member



362 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  01:30 AM  Show Profile  Reply to this posting
Growing up in the Fraser Valley, I’ve had my eye on Tomyhoi since before I knew its name. Reading a recent TR (http://www.clubtread.com/sforum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=40364) that gave the current trail conditions, I knew its time was finally here...

This last weekend was a little weird from a scheduling perspective as Sunday looked to be the best day weather wise, but I needed to be back in town by about 3pm to get ready for my brother’s wedding rehearsal. It took a bit on convincing, but in the end I sold Jeremy on a 2am departure with the promise of clear skies in the morning and a nice and cool (and bug free!) ascent. By 2:45 we were across the border and on our way!

Hitting the trail at 4, I don’t have to tell you that headlamps were a necessity. Encountered continuous snow not 15 minutes from the trailhead but we were kind of expecting it. Despite the darkness, the trail was easy enough to follow except for a little confusion just after the junction with the Gold Rush Pass trail. 10 minutes lost consulting map and compass and vainly looking for boot prints in the snow, we decided to go with what seemed to be the correct direction and shortly thereafter were back onto a trail in the snow. The sun’s first rays were just touching Baker and Shuksan by the time we reached the high point just before descending down to the tarns. I know the pictures don’t do it justice, but the North Cascades sure do look good in that lighting!


Baker and Shuksan in morning light


Looking at the route ahead...

We saw another gentleman camping down at the tarns but he was busy doing his own thing so we just motored on.


Border Peaks and Larrabee in morning light


Assorted Baker shots on the way up – I don’t recall ever seeing it so clearly, it has a tendency to draw the eye


The way up


The views to the south were absolutely incredible. I think we had good timing on this one

After a few scrambley bits we were fast approaching the notch that leads up to the false summit. A bit of snow needs to be traversed here but it’s nothing that we found to be particularly steep or exposed.


Approaching the false summit


Looking back on the notch we used to cross onto the west side of the ridge

Soon we were face-to-face with the true summit and I have to say it looks a little intimidating from a distance! Despite my reservations, I knew that this was a classic case of looks worse than it is and that turned out to be totally true. The line up the summit block is intuitive and Matt Gunn’s description was right on target (there really isn’t much alternative).


Summit block


Jeremy coming up behind me

By 8am we were standing on the summit and I have to say I was completely sold on this leaving super early business. The sun was warming up by that point but I had managed to get to the top without even breaking a sweat! That’s gotta be a first for me

Sitting down to have some “lunch”, we drank in the views and just savoured the moment. It was good to finally be up here, looking back at all of the other peaks where I’ve sat and gazed at Tomyhoi on countless occasions.

Summit Shots:


Baker


Church Mountain


McGuire with Judge Howay in the distance behind

The Cheam range was beautifully laid out on profile in front of us. I've seen this picture before but had to make my own


Cheam Range


Border Peaks


American and Larrabee


Shuksan


Assorted Tomyhoi glacier shots


North Cascades


Jeremy summit shot


Myself – I’m not sure why I look so pissed off in this picture! Take my word for that I’m smiling on the inside


Bergshrund

After hanging around for more than an hour, we decided we had better get going. Down climbing the false summit proved to be straight forward and we were careful to maintain a good spacing.


I grabbed a picture of Jeremy on the far side as I was about to climb down.

About 30 minutes from the summit we were on our merry way when I saw something that stopped me dead in my tracks. Before me was the first mountain goat I have ever laid eyes upon and believe me when I say I’ve been waiting for this. We immediately started snapping pictures and were able to get pretty close to the guy. He didn’t seem fazed by our presence in the least...



Goat!

Shortly after I noticed that the clouds were really starting to roll in from the south and obscure that great view. Looks like our timing couldn’t have been better!



Coming back into the area where the tarns are, I stopped to take a couple photos in their partially melted state.


Melting tarns

The Border peaks make for an impressive backdrop here and I couldn’t help but get a few more pictures.


Border Peaks

After climbing back up out of the bowl I was feeling a bit drained but soon enough we were left with nothing but downhill. One last look at Tomyhoi:



Passed about 6 other people on the way down and they were looking very warm I must say. The snow was so much softer by this point and the going seemed to be way tougher. I guess the early bird got the worm!

Back at vehicle by noon and we were on our way back to Canada. Since I was still so early we were even able to swing a Bellingham detour to pick up some Jack In-The-Box. Sweet!
ClubTread Supporter

Jeffster
Advanced Member

Terminator shade wearing, summit questing, double Grinding, Gordo voting self annointed 'dumb ass' and Aconcagua Bagga who dreams of Robson, Teton, The Judge, and.....and....

Port Moody, B.C
Canada

2210 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  02:23 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Mid August and still no tarns. I love that area!

Blucruisin
Senior Member


in the valley, BC
Canada

1459 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  06:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
amazing how much snow is still up there - and here I was looking forward to heading up in early September to enjoy the fall foliage - guess it will be spring there come September, skip summer and fall then go straight into winter

tedoliver
Senior Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

1117 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  1:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Really nice report from a fine peak. Thanks.

paulyman
Intermediate Member



505 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  1:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Awesome Awesome Awesome! great job guys and a very well written t.r.

thecamel
Senior Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

1114 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  2:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
You may have convinced me to add this one to my short list. Smoothly planned and timed trip.

Cody

mad owl woman
Advanced Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

2661 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  7:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote

Ah, so that's what it looks like without cloud

Well done

Gearhed
Senior Member


Vancouver, bc
Canada

1009 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  7:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Congrats on the peak and somewhat jealous. Looking at your photos, I can see that the schrund traverse was a bad decision. After lunch we got turned around in the white-out. The only instance where I used both my gps and separate compass to get us back on track. This is all we got from the hike you referenced:


1. Where we pulled the plug?? 2. Q traversing a schrund in microspikes (thats Scamper in front)

KARVITK
Advanced Member

Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards

Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada

13469 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  11:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Gearhed

Congrats on the peak and somewhat jealous. Looking at your photos, I can see that the schrund traverse was a bad decision. After lunch we got turned around in the white-out. The only instance where I used both my gps and separate compass to get us back on track. This is all we got from the hike you referenced:


1. Where we pulled the plug?? 2. Q traversing a schrund in microspikes (thats Scamper in front)



Wow that is massive !

Been having my eye on this mountain for a long time, ever since high school.

K
ClubTread Supporter

exscape
Advanced Member

Outdoors addicted flyfishing, skiing, snowshoeing, hiking car crooner and resident motormouth

Da'Wack, BC
Canada

5372 Posts

 Posted - 08/11/2011 :  11:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Beautiful!
ClubTread Supporter

Flowing-Brook
Advanced Member


Popkum, BC
Canada

5887 Posts

 Posted - 08/16/2011 :  3:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is one I've always wanted to try but never get around to. Thanks for the reminder. Lovely area!
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