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Van, BC Canada
2793 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2011 : 1:33 PM
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Photoset: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/sets/72157626971737989/
Luke and Spike joined me for a trip up to Mt. Statimcets (called Peak 8700 by Matt Gunn in 'Scrambles) on Canada Day. It snowed.
Note that we did not follow the Scrambles route up and down, so if you're using my track for reference, adjust accordingly.
Elevation Profile:
Google Earth birdseye:

Google Earth 3d:

Due to Thursday evening obligations preventing car camping, we met up at 3am at the Taylor church and headed off up the highway. Uneventful drive, but for a large black bear at the side of the road just after Whistler.
If you're looking for snow free mountains, you may want to consider the Duffy Lake Road, east of Duffy Lake. Driving through there the mountains were surprisingly bare, considering the condition of everything else around SW BC at the moment.
The Downton mainline is in excellent shape and 2WDable. We turned off "Branch 2" (roughly 12km or so from the highway) and started climbing. The first moderate sized waterbar was tackled without issue. The second one was eroded on the downslope side, and I erred too high on the upslope. Poor technique/approach angle on my part, and I ended up spinning my wheels with the back right wheel in the air. I believe this is the same waterbar (but different wheel in the air) that stymied NS Explorer when he was up here last year with Mick. I was able to easily reverse out of it, and although I could probably have made it with better driving on a 2nd attempt, I decided to play it safe and just park.
Hoofing it up the road, there were another 5-6 waterbars before the junction. These were quite large, and I'm not sure I would have been comfortable tackling them. Suffice to say, 4WD HC needed if you want to drive any decent distance up the spur.
The junction:

We got to the junction. I knew from Google Earth examination that the left (straight) branch would take us closer (in a straight line) to the summit (this is Matt Gunn's approach), but the right branch would take us to a higher elevation and quicker access to the alpine. We decided for the right. Note that the right branch is deactivated, with a large pit and mound of dirt right at the entrance preventing car access. ATV's could still make it though.
The branch was in good shape and not overgrown:

We soon came to a creek that required crossing. Water levels were high enough that we couldn't just jump - went slightly upstream to pick a good spot for a dry-boot crossing.
Video - Luke considers a crossing, but decides to find another: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5892464257/in/set-72157626971737989
The road switchbacked up through a cutblock. At the top of that cutblock, before recrossing that stream, is a good place to camp - fire pit and a bit of pre-cut wood included. We stopped for a rest.
Spike performed tricks for food: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5892464999/in/set-72157626971737989
I erred (forgetting about the upper cutblock on this branch) and took us into the trees at this point (not wanting to recross that stream). The first bit was fine; but we got into some blowdown. Emerging into the upper cutblock, we found it in excellent hiking condition - not very bushy and lots of open ground. We moved over to the road (which by that point had just recrossed the creek yet again)
We followed it through the cutblock:
The road soon petered out and an ATV track took over. Although it was clear that no ATV's had been up there yet this season, it was still a very well worn/marked trail. Hopefully the ATV's won't come up here much - it's sensitive terrain and very easily scarred.
The ATV track left the cutblock and weaved through the trees. A clear path and flags to follow - an unexpected treat. Very quickly the forest started to open up to meadowy patches, with flowers starting to poke out.
Meadowy:

Quickly after that the ATV track emerged into the alpine:

Video panorama - emerging into the alpine: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5893033640/in/set-72157626971737989
At this point, just on your left, is a broad grassy area that would be an excellent place to camp if you're looking to set up not far into the valley. We decided to make straight for the alpine slopes.
Another 10 minutes further on, Luke called out to Spike and grabbed him. A grizzly was ~200' upslope from us and heading in the opposite direction. Luckily, the bear took off away from us. Unfortunately, I was 40' behind Luke and by the time I caught up the bear was long gone. Still though, I let off a bear banger just to make sure he kept moving away.
The bear took off that-a-way:

Continuing on, it began to snow. Happy Canada Day, eh?
The hiking here was beautiful - alpine meadows. Relatively flat too, so easy going. That said, I was really feeling the altitude and thin air, and I was sucking air whenever I got to an upslope!
After a slight uphill detour to find a good crossing for a narrow but fast flowing streamlet (you can see the deviation in the GE track), and the terrain changed to scree. This was more annoying to walk on than the meadow, and it slowed our progress somewhat.
Just so you have an idea of the terrain, there is a moderate ridge smack in the middle of the start of this valley. We were ascending into the valley to the right of this ridge. Matt Gunn's Scrambles route takes you into the valley to the left of the ridge. (We came back by staying right on top of the ridge.)
Google Earth 3d - alpine meadow ramblings (ascent on right, descent on left):
As we were making our way deeper into the valley, I looked to my left at this ridge and spotted an animal (bear?) den in the snow on the slope:

The higher we got into the valley the more snow there was. We were traversing short patches of snow and found them to be pretty hard packed - easy enough to kick step in, but enough of a slope below that Luke got out his ice axe and I sometimes went up and around.
Higher still in the valley, things flattened out and we got on the continuous snow:

We were unfortunately somewhat socked in:

Warty Towels:
 (What? You didn't get the Fawlty Towers reference? That's Fawlty Tower.)
Looking back:
 (No, the clouds were not nearly that dark - I tweaked the lighting level for effect)
Video 360 Panorama - getting deeper into the valley: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5893035602/in/set-72157626971737989
We stopped for a snack and eyeballed the route ahead:
We wanted to get on the col. The best route looked to be following the broad gengle snow ramp on the right side of the col then bashing up the scree. That is what we did. With crampons and ice axe, it was easy going up the generally hard crusty snow.
Google Earth 3d - ascent (right) and descent (left) lines off of Statimcets)
(Matt Gunn's line is roughly our descent track.)
On the top of the snow, we took off the crampons and eyeballed further:

Luke went over and up; I went up and over. My route was fine - not technical at all small stairmaster scree (i.e. one step up and slide down half a step). In no time at all I was on the col and met back up with Luke and Spike.
Ascent ridge:

We stayed on the scree to the left of the snow - it was steep(er) but pretty mellow. On top of that was continuous snow (with little visibility), so we again cramponed up to be safe. Navagating by GPS and by the limited-to-moderate vis, we topped out on the summit.
Luke summits; Spike comes to check on me (he doesn't like the pack to be too separated):
Statimcets summit cairn:
Unfortunately, we had no views. It was warm enough, even with the wind, so we hung out for a while hoping for a break (nope).
Video 360 Panorama - Statimcets summit: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5893036560/in/set-72157626971737989
Spike occupied himself: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5892470263/in/set-72157626971737989
No sense in sticking around, so we headed down. Uncramponed at the bottom of the top snow bit, we decided to take a different descent. Going straight down on the scree (rather than dropping down to the col) looked doable, and that is what we did.
Looking up our descent path:

By this time the ceiling had lifted a bit and we were able to get a bit better views.
Panorama - Luke and Spike contemplate the valley:
Panorama - the upper valley:

Many alpine creatures were scampering around in the snow:
Video 360 panorama - in the valley: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5893039218/in/set-72157626971737989
We came across a ptarmigan. It was so tame I walked up to within 3' of it. It seemed like I would have been able to bend down and pick it up, but didn't want to bother it further:

We made for the aforementioned ridge and were able to stay on bare ground most of the way. Nearing the ridge, I spotted something odd off to our right and asked Luke if it was a strange orange rock or a tent. Luke, with better eyesight, confirmed it was a tent. We soon saw two snowshoers off in the distance on another small ridge and exchanged waves. Anyone from CT land?
Nearing the ridge:

Gaining this ridge that is in the middle of the valley, we found it again to be beautiful alpine terrain. Up high we had great views of the slopes on either side of the valley.
Luke contemplates life:

Jawbones (marmot?):
Views of the alpine slopes we had traversed on our ascent:
Video 360 panorama - on the ridge in the middle of the valley: http://www.flickr.com/photos/realaworld/5892473647/in/set-72157626971737989
I took a few zoomed in pics of the alpine slopes, joking to Luke that I would zoom in further on my computer when I got home to see if I could spot any bears (since neither of us brought binoculars). Interestinly enough, I did spot something. May be hard to see in these pics (check my flickr site for full res), but there seems to be something black in the general shape of a bear (or wolf? but I'm not going that far). These are all the same pic - the last two are just zoomed in/cropped, with the thing in question centred:
I joined Luke on the other side of the ridge, and we enjoyed a nice view to the lake that is at the end of the left branch of the spur road:
We essentially wanted to get to that lake ('cause that's where the road was that we would follow down), so when the top of the ridge started to become more treed and less alpiney, we turned right and went straight down. It was steep going, but very nice soft ground that was extremely grippy.
Descent was uneventful with little real bushwacking involved. We got ourselves to a cutblock, and when we were most of the way through came across a trodden and flagged trail. This is the official trail and the Matt Gunn route.
This is what the trail looks like when it leaves from the road (look for a cairn and lots of flagging):

And just off the road is this trail sign:
Here at a pullout in the road was an Isuzu Trooper - ovbiously the tenters we had seen previously. It was very impressive that he had made it up that far. Walking along the road (which was the left branch), there were many large and deep waterbars. From the gouges on the ground, the Isuzu's trailer hitch had taken a significant beating - nevertheless, it had made it up.
The walk down the road was uneventful, but for the bear den I spotted in a cutblock on the other side of the creek:

It was a very enjoyable hike, and I'm already planning my return to that valley - there is an amazing looking ridgewalk in the alpine that I now have my eye on.
For those wanting to follow the Matt Gunn Scrambles route, note the following. You want Branch 2 off of the Downtown main. (Literally, the second branch on your right, about 12km from the highway). The waterbars are pretty big. You want the left branch of the road when it splits (the right branch will take you to an ATV track that will get you to the alpine too - our route in). Before you get to the lake, look for a small cairn in the road with flagging and a small but distinct trail heading up the cutblock (see pics above). I can't speak anything about this trail as we were only on it right at the end, but I understand it travels up the valley on the left of the ridge (that we had been on the right of on our way in) and takes you to and around another alpine lake. By that point you're in the upper reaches of the valley and alpine, so just head over to the base of Statimcets. Both the Gunn ascent route and a route that first takes you to the col on the right of Statimcets are both workable without any significant exposure or technical steps. Note though that this is very wild country. Animal count now from my hikes in the Downton includes grizzly/black bears, cougars and wolf prints.
-Ryan
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     Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin Canada
13057 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2011 : 2:57 PM
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| Thought there would be more snow up there than that. One of the best hikes we've ever been on, I still say. How was it for the legendary Downton wind? |
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over the hills and far away Canada
709 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2011 : 3:28 PM
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| Cool... one of my favorite areas. Neat bear den findings- don't see those too often. Funny how shadows can take the general shape of a bear.... Too bad the weather wasn't great, because it's an easy walk and scramble over to Linus. The ridge-walking around there is awesome. |
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North Vancouver Canada
745 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2011 : 4:08 PM
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| Nice one you guys. It is an fantastic area. Looks like it was still worth the trip even if you didn't get any views from the summit. |
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     Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin Canada
13057 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2011 : 4:25 PM
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| Hey D, remember the rock you saw down in the meadows from the slopes of 8700 that looked like a bear but then when we got down we discovered the bear would have been 14 feet tall and 4000 lbs? Did yours move, Ryan? |
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North Vancouver
178 Posts |
Posted - 07/02/2011 : 9:33 PM
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Another excellent trip report Ryan. It truly is a magical area. Hope to get up there again soon for more exploring, hopefully on a clear day.
Here's bunch more photos... 
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Vancouver, British Columbia Canada
558 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 06:40 AM
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| Really nice you guys. Looks like a very interesting area. Great TR as well. |
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Coquitlam, BC Canada
342 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 08:09 AM
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Nice works guys... I wonder if the wolf is the same one that helped us down the head scarp last fall? Too bad about the snow, but it's nice to see that area in a different season.
Cheers,
Corey |
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North Vancouver Canada
745 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 09:46 AM
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quote: mick range Posted - 07/02/2011 : 4:25 PM Hey D, remember the rock you saw down in the meadows from the slopes of 8700 that looked like a bear but then when we got down we discovered the bear would have been 14 feet tall and 4000 lbs? Did yours move, Ryan?
Yes, I was a little disappointed when the giant bear turned out to be a rock. |
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Van, BC Canada
2793 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 09:49 AM
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quote: Originally posted by NS Explorer
quote: mick range Posted - 07/02/2011 : 4:25 PM Hey D, remember the rock you saw down in the meadows from the slopes of 8700 that looked like a bear but then when we got down we discovered the bear would have been 14 feet tall and 4000 lbs? Did yours move, Ryan?
Yes, I was a little disappointed when the giant bear turned out to be a rock.
I stand by my slightly-blacker-than-the-surroundings-thing-in-the-general-shape-of-an-animal picture!
And Mick - I'm not sure if it moved. I didn't even see it in the field - I was taking the pics so I could zoom in at home and see if I could spot anything... and when I did, I noticed that thing.
-Ryan
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     Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin Canada
13057 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 10:39 AM
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| Seems to be an area that is big for wildlife, which I like too. We saw a wolverine kill not far from our camp spot too and marmots on the way in |
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     Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
13466 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 11:14 AM
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Beautiful trip and nice shots. Well worth the very early start at the Taylor way church at 3 am.
K |
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Burnaby, BC Canada
1297 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 8:39 PM
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| Such a long drive for a hike, but that area's sure worth it. Your TR's are always guidebook quality. |
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Campbell River, BC Canada
761 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 9:41 PM
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Nice report |
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521 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 10:55 PM
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Excellent report! Looks like you guys had an awesome trip.
What looks to be a bear silhouette in that photo you were questioning may be a root ball from a toppled tree. It appears that there's a trunk leading up to it, but is difficult to make out to be sure. |
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     canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru
Surrey Hole, BC Canada
6788 Posts |
Posted - 07/03/2011 : 11:20 PM
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Good round loop
we were just south (lower road) of you for those days, same weather and similar snow, different terrain. Had to bail sunday morning after a rain beating sat night/sun morning.
The ptarmigan was tame/stupid, because she has nearby babies. |
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Vancouver
109 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2011 : 09:29 AM
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| Nice country up there. I am looking forward to exploring the South Downton Creek area as well. Luke - nice army pants! I recognized you by them. |
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832 Posts |
Posted - 07/04/2011 : 8:24 PM
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Very nice  I'm surprised you carried snowshoes - was there any use of them?
The Flowery Twat looks very enticing!  |
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Vancouver, BC Canada
103 Posts |
Posted - 07/05/2011 : 10:31 AM
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| Another great trip report, Ryan :) Love all the little details you include. It's great to see what you all saw in such a beautiful place. Cheers! |
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North Vancouver, BC Canada
1607 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2011 : 7:13 PM
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Excellent trip. Thanks for posting all the details and maps.
That's very neat about seeing the bear dens. |
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