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 Skin Width
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Chingyul
New Member


Calgary, Alberta
Canada

68 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  06:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply to this posting
Got some skins from a friend for my birthday. He ended buying the BD GlideLite Mix STS from MEC in the 110mm size. I have the Movement Couloir with 120-87-109 dimensions.

Should I worry about that 5mm/side gap at the tip? Any attachment issues with the slight upturned round tail (wouldn't need a twin tip attachment)?

Oh, last time. Does G3 sell their trim tools separately? Seems easy to use with it's offset cutter.

booewen
Intermediate Member


Edmonton, Alberta
Canada

793 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  08:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
5mm side gap at the tip is nothing. You won't even notice the difference.

Upturned tail is fine....actually means the clip is less likely to get pulled of when skinning as it's not pressing in the snow as much. Rounded end can be a bit of a problem...if you notice the clip sliding off a lot...you can always cut in your own little skin notch in the ski. But I'm sure it will be fine.

Dunno about the trimming tools.....

splitboarder
Intermediate Member


vancouver, bc
Canada

987 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  10:13 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Agreed, you've got plenty of skin for that ski. Enjoy!

hafilax
Senior Member


Vancouver, BC
Canada

1461 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  1:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have twin tipped skis and the tails stay on no problem.

PackRat
Junior Member



287 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  6:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I picked up one of the G3 trim tools at MEC.

time2clmb
Advanced Member

Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor


6302 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  7:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Chingyul

Got some skins from a friend for my birthday. He ended buying the BD GlideLite Mix STS from MEC in the 110mm size. I have the Movement Couloir with 120-87-109 dimensions.


The skins are wider than what you need, but will work fine, and even more so for climbing. Obviously you will need to trim them. Even 85mm width would work. Personally I like to go wider and then trim them to have "wall to wall" coverage as I go to climb, and avoid long flat bullshit.

quote:
Should I worry about that 5mm/side gap at the tip? Any attachment issues with the slight upturned round tail (wouldn't need a twin tip attachment)?


Answered above....you have plenty of skin, you don't get traction from the shovel anyways. If tensioned properly you shouldn't have any issues with a twin tip. I have 3 pairs of skis that I tour with, one with a slight twin that has a very narrow rounding at the back, one with full rocker, and one standard with skin notch. None of my skis have an "issue" with them staying on. Ocasionally 1 will start to slip off of the side on slippy kick turns, but it's easy enough to slip back on. Just lift your tail and if some one is behind you then can fix it, or kick up your tail and do it yourself. Most people I tour with have a twin tip or rocker, and it never seems to be a problem.

quote:
Oh, last time. Does G3 sell their trim tools separately? Seems easy to use with it's offset cutter.



If you can't find a G3 one, BD ones work fine also.

prother
Senior Member


Qualicum Beach, BC
Canada

1301 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  7:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is a skin trick I learned from an ACMG instructor on one of our avalanche courses, during windy conditions. While everyone tried to fold their skins into (sort of) third's and having them stick in the wrong place, requiring much pulling and cursing to get the skins apart, to re-align them, the guide stowed his skins in seconds.

Now, when I trim a new set of skins to the shape of the ski, I then fold them in half and trim the fatter end to match the thinner end. That way I can fold them in half. In stormy, windy conditions I peel my skins off and fold them in half, with the glue side facing out. I can then hold them in one hand, dimple the halfway point inward and then pull the skin through my other hand and the skins go together exactly half way and margins perfect.

I know this description probably makes no sense to most people and I will take photos of the procedure and post them... sometime in the future.

At any rate, skins don't have to be trimmed to fit the skis edge perfectly and a bit of ski base showing might even help in rolly terrain, when the skins stay on.

Peter

splitboarder
Intermediate Member


vancouver, bc
Canada

987 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  8:13 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by prother

I peel my skins off and fold them in half, with the glue side facing out. I can then hold them in one hand, dimple the halfway point inward and then pull the skin through my other hand and the skins go together exactly half way and margins perfect.



hmm, makes sense, I'll give it a try!

I'm an advocate of letting your leg do the work of splitting the skins when taking them out of the pack to apply/re-apply to the skis.

I seperate the ends, then put the skin side between my legs. holding the skins on either side of my legs with both hands I use my leg muscles to rip the skins apart effortlessly. So much easier then pulling with your arms.

I don't use skin sheets and my newish skins are awfully sticky, i find this trick saves me tons of energy and a little bit of time over my struggling compatriots.

time2clmb
Advanced Member

Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor


6302 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  8:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have no idea why people piss around sticking skins glue to glue for the length of the skin, or even half. It's comical watching them muscle them to seperate them. I take the back end fold back 1 foot glue to glue, then fold, or better described as roll them then squish flat. Glue to skin really. To put on ski, attach tip, roll down length of ski, clip rear on. To reverse, unclip rear, fold or "roll" (it's really a bunch of light folds) and your g2g for the next application. No force or pissing around required.

johngenx
Advanced Member


Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  8:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb

I have no idea why people piss around sticking skins glue to glue for the length of the skin, or even half. It's comical watching them muscle them to seperate them. I take the back end fold back 1 foot glue to glue, then fold, or better described as roll them then squish flat. Glue to skin really. To put on ski, attach tip, roll down length of ski, clip rear on. To reverse, unclip rear, fold or "roll" (it's really a bunch of light folds) and your g2g for the next application. No force or pissing around required.



Interesting. I had always thought the glue would pick up moisture and gunk from the plush.

prother
Senior Member


Qualicum Beach, BC
Canada

1301 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  8:54 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by splitboarder

quote:
Originally posted by prother

I peel my skins off and fold them in half, with the glue side facing out. I can then hold them in one hand, dimple the halfway point inward and then pull the skin through my other hand and the skins go together exactly half way and margins perfect.



hmm, makes sense, I'll give it a try!

I'm an advocate of letting your leg do the work of splitting the skins when taking them out of the pack to apply/re-apply to the skis.

I seperate the ends, then put the skin side between my legs. holding the skins on either side of my legs with both hands I use my leg muscles to rip the skins apart effortlessly. So much easier then pulling with your arms.

I don't use skin sheets and my newish skins are awfully sticky, i find this trick saves me tons of energy and a little bit of time over my struggling compatriots.



When I put my skins on my skis, I put on the tip connector and put the tail of the ski on my hip-joint, pull and place the skin, then fasten the tail connector. It works in a fluid movement, that keeps the ski base free of the snow. I don't use skin sheets, as I find them one more complication not needed.

Peter

prother
Senior Member


Qualicum Beach, BC
Canada

1301 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  9:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb

I have no idea why people piss around sticking skins glue to glue for the length of the skin, or even half. It's comical watching them muscle them to seperate them. I take the back end fold back 1 foot glue to glue, then fold, or better described as roll them then squish flat. Glue to skin really. To put on ski, attach tip, roll down length of ski, clip rear on. To reverse, unclip rear, fold or "roll" (it's really a bunch of light folds) and your g2g for the next application. No force or pissing around required.



Are you talking about folding skins accordion style, or actually rolling the skin? I realize it's sometimes difficult to describe in words and It would be nice to see this in a series of photos.

Peter

time2clmb
Advanced Member

Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor


6302 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  9:04 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by johngenx

quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb

I have no idea why people piss around sticking skins glue to glue for the length of the skin, or even half. It's comical watching them muscle them to seperate them. I take the back end fold back 1 foot glue to glue, then fold, or better described as roll them then squish flat. Glue to skin really. To put on ski, attach tip, roll down length of ski, clip rear on. To reverse, unclip rear, fold or "roll" (it's really a bunch of light folds) and your g2g for the next application. No force or pissing around required.



Interesting. I had always thought the glue would pick up moisture and gunk from the plush.



Ya know, during all of the abuse, tree bashing, bush crashing, wood stomping, rock skinning etc etc I put my skins through they just don't pick up debris on to the plush. Also the snow is normally pretty dry, and when it's moist I use skin wax, so moisture hasn't really been a problem either, no more so than any stowage method anyhow.

johngenx
Advanced Member


Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  9:17 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Well, I might give that a try, as my little girly arms struggle with fat skins.

splitboarder
Intermediate Member


vancouver, bc
Canada

987 Posts

 Posted - 02/23/2011 :  11:23 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb

I have no idea why people piss around sticking skins glue to glue for the length of the skin, or even half. It's comical watching them muscle them to seperate them. I take the back end fold back 1 foot glue to glue, then fold, or better described as roll them then squish flat. Glue to skin really. To put on ski, attach tip, roll down length of ski, clip rear on. To reverse, unclip rear, fold or "roll" (it's really a bunch of light folds) and your g2g for the next application. No force or pissing around required.



ok this one i do need pictures for!
ClubTread Supporter

Farmer
Advanced Member

Outward Bound author of the Seinfeld Thread, who builds his own snowshoes

Troy, MT
USA

3121 Posts

 Posted - 02/24/2011 :  8:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I bought the G3 skin tool separately when I got my skins. I think I got them online, possibly from telemarkski.com but I'm not 100%

T2C, to be clear, the 1st foot of skin is glue to glue, and then you roll the rest around that?

time2clmb
Advanced Member

Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor


6302 Posts

 Posted - 02/25/2011 :  08:22 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
-34c....might as well post now.

Not so much roll as loosely fold.



Easy on to attach to ski, no fighting the glue



To take off just fold out from tail



No issues with glue sticking to skins or plush sticking to glue.

Edited by - time2clmb on 02/25/2011 08:23 AM

PackRat
Junior Member



287 Posts

 Posted - 02/25/2011 :  08:26 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I fold mine in quarters with the tip and tail each folded to the middle glue to glue. The shorter lengths make it easier to pull apart compared to folding in half but they are a little bulkier when folded in quarters and I may try T2C's rolling method.

Has anyone tried the new glue less clip skins?
www.clipskins.com

time2clmb
Advanced Member

Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor


6302 Posts

 Posted - 02/25/2011 :  08:53 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
^ A friend of mine has the clip skins and he likes them alot. I asked him if he's ever had a problem with them coming off, or if he has ever had issues with snow getting between them and his skis and he said no. Not sure how much he has used them though.
ClubTread Supporter

Farmer
Advanced Member

Outward Bound author of the Seinfeld Thread, who builds his own snowshoes

Troy, MT
USA

3121 Posts

 Posted - 02/25/2011 :  1:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
thanks for the pics t2c

Lou Dawson did a review of the clipskins recently

http://www.wildsnow.com/4278/clipskins-review/

johngenx
Advanced Member


Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts

 Posted - 02/25/2011 :  2:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb

^ A friend of mine has the clip skins and he likes them alot. I asked him if he's ever had a problem with them coming off, or if he has ever had issues with snow getting between them and his skis and he said no. Not sure how much he has used them though.



I met a guide that was using them, and he seemed to like them. Fast transitions. They look a little mickey-mouse with the mylar on them (to keep them from stretching) but otherwise, seemed to work well.
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