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253 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2010 : 02:17 AM
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I've been doing mountaineering for over a year now. I'm not a technical climber but I have a good endurance and can push myself to the extreme.
I've been contemplating to climb Denali and Aconcagua, maybe next year or 2 years from now. I've read some crazy, horrifying, and disastrous stories of the climb in Denali. The problem is, I don't ski, so I'm planning to do it in snowshoes.
I'm plannning to solo Aconcagua via standard route
How much experience do I need?
Is it too ambitious? |
Edited by - bcroadtrip on 01/17/2011 08:45 AM
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
1606 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2010 : 03:18 AM
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There are many companies that do guided trips to those mountains. The websites for those companies provide some good information on the level of experience and conditioning that is required to join a guided trip.
Obviously, the required level is higher if you are opting to go with a group that does not have the local experience and logistical support that a guided trip has.
And obviously the required level is much higher if you are going solo. It doesn't sound like you are considering doing Denali solo. I would recommend against doing Aconcagua solo on your first trip.
I can't provide much more advice but it would probably help others if you could provide some more information:
- What is the highest peak you have climbed (altitude sickness is a serious consideration for both of these climbs)?
- What is the longest backpacking trip you have been on?
- What training do you have? (glacier travel with crevasse rescue, wilderness first aid, etc.)
Best of luck. I'm sure you will summit both of these if you put your mind to it and don't take any shortcuts. That might mean investing some money in gear/training, investing time in building up the appropriate level of experience and being willing to travel with a group. It might also mean making multiple trips if the weather doesn't cooperate.
Cheers, |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2010 : 08:56 AM
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What do you mean is it too ambitious? If you like to go up high you have to have a plenty of ambition. :-)
Experience is important but you picked the most traveled mountains for your high altitude plan. So this is a very good start for your future trips.
I haven't been on Aconcagua, but attempted Denali in 2008. The most important thing is to go and get tested on lower mountains like Pico de Orizaba or something lower like Rainier, Shasta etc. Then to go to Aconcagua, and then to Denali.
I am very excited about your plan but at the same time I feel bad about your finances for the next few years. You will suffer ... However, you will be a very happy climber and everything will be forgotten after the successful summits.
If you plan everything very carefully you will have very good time. It will be nice to have a good partner. Someone you like. It doesn't need to be excellent climber. Just nice, easy going person.
Also, you know you can get checked how good you will be on altitude? There is a lab at UBC where you can be tested.
Cheers and keep dreaming ... You can do it.
Zoran
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1058 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2010 : 09:12 AM
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| If you're a half-decent mountaineer, Denali doesn't require anything more than good weather. |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2010 : 09:41 AM
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If you check statistics, success rate to climb Denali is 50%.
So, in average half of the mountaineers are decent and half are half-decent. In 2008 I realized I am half-decent. I hope you are decent mountaineer...
Just kidding with Kid ... :-)
Bad weather is the main reason people quit.
But, it's not always weather. I noticed so many good mountaineers going back for other reasons. I noticed people don't talk with friends anymore, had wrong food choice, lost food in the heavy snowfall, couldn't handle elevation etc.
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
606 Posts |
Posted - 12/30/2010 : 11:41 AM
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Aconcagua is nearing 7000 m -- Altitude is huge factor. It has little to do with overall fitness -- bodies react differently to lack of oxygen. You can be very fit, aclimatize slowly and still suffer -- and ultimately not make it.
This is major factor to consider, as trips like these are significant investment of resources (money, time, etc). Few years ago I met a fellow on the trail above Canmore; He summited Aconcagua on Polish Glacier route - we chatted for couple of hours. When I expressed my interest, his first question was "How high have you been before". "4100" I said. "Don't think about Aconcagua then. See first what your body will do on 5000, then 6000. Then consider going higher".
I was on 5900 earlier this year -- it is amazing watching your body shut down progressively as the air gets thinner. Headache and out of air first; sleeping problems next, then digestion. Things like Diamox will help, but only so much. I've witnessed helicopter lifting people at "only" 4600 because they needed to get down fast, or .... If you live here in Vancouver this will get even worse, as your system is used to sea level. Altitude is NOT something to screw with.
Here are some resources (I have no experience dealing with these companies and I am not making commercial for them; I just think it is good info):
http://patagonicas.com/aconcagua-expeditions/
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/exp/itinerary/aconcagua.html
Hope this helps, and good luck!! |
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253 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 12:08 AM
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Thanks for the input everyone.
Steventy: I'm not planning to go on a guided trip, though. I did my mountaineering intro in 2009 and on the same year I climbed Mt.Baker.
Zeljkok: I see that you been up Kilimanjaro. How did your body react above 5000+m? Were you ok with altitude? What was your acclimatization process?
Kid: have you climbed Dinali?
Zoran: I think I remember you from last year. As I recall you also climbed Mt. Logan. Would you mind sharing your gear list and itinerary?
 
Once I succeeded on Dinali and Aconcagua, I'm going to climb Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, and Cho Oyu. |
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1058 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 07:06 AM
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No, I haven't climbed Dinali. But I have climbed Denali. The mountain is your elder, spell it's name correctly.
If you want to start bagging peaks like the ones you've listed this early in your mountaineering career, use a guide. Less than two years of experience is not enough time to be prepared for the 'oh shit' factor on a big mountain. If you were at the point where you could do these mountains un-guided, you wouldn't be asking about a gear list, you would know what you need. |
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253 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 08:41 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Kid Charlemagne
No, I haven't climbed Dinali. But I have climbed Denali. The mountain is your elder, spell it's name correctly.
If you want to start bagging peaks like the ones you've listed this early in your mountaineering career, use a guide. Less than two years of experience is not enough time to be prepared for the 'oh shit' factor on a big mountain. If you were at the point where you could do these mountains un-guided, you wouldn't be asking about a gear list, you would know what you need.
Hi Kid,
Sorry if I spelt it wrong. I like Zoran's suggestion of getting partners. The last 3 mountains are all guided.
The reason why I asked about the gear list is because I know nothing about these mountains. This is part of my research. As a beginner, I would like to know what I need.
I hope you could post your Denali trip here. I admire people like you who have done big mountains.
Cheers, |
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vancouver, bc
Canada
987 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 09:58 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by bcroadtrip
Thanks for the input everyone.
Steventy: I'm not planning to go on a guided trip, though. I did my mountaineering intro in 2009 and on the same year I climbed Mt.Baker.
\
Dude, Mt. Baker is like a foothill compared to these seven summits you are considering. Its certainly in the realm of possibility to climb these mountains, but you have a lot of preparation to do, don't underestimate them, for your health's sake for one, but also financially, you might only get one shot, I'd want to be as prepared as possible.
What have you climbed since Baker? I would think Rainier should be on that list before moving on up to something like Denali especially.
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
302 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 12:00 PM
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BCroadtrip, there are lots of resources online for Denali. For example a simple search of "Denali gear list" will get you sample gear lists posted by other people and guiding companies like Alpine Ascents etc. Maybe a place for you to start. Also read up on other sites like summitpost, cascade climbers etc....research on gear for winter mountaineering. There are also sample fitness regimens posted by people who have climbed it so that might be worth looking into. There are also a few books available that talk about Denali climbs (different routes, gear, overall strategy etc)...
As far as skill goes, I am sure that using a guide service might be a good way to start. Or you can join a trip with BCMC, ACC etc...I am sure inexperienced people have soloed these peaks but it might be safer to be with guides or more experienced climbing partners.
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
671 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 4:16 PM
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Dean, you know you can always ask me anything about those two mountains. I'm a skier, but I did Denali on snowshoes (most of the group were snowshoers). You know my email :)
Congratulations on Pico de Orizaba! |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 01/17/2011 : 6:26 PM
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Radmila have a better gear list than mine and her food list is outstanding. Grab all info from her since she offered. Good luck with your plans.
P.S.
Few people I know spend horrifying day and night on Mt. Baker once. In the snow cave ... In "right" conditions Baker is equally dangerous as Denali. Same is for Rainier. Be safe out there and keep pushing! If you have money go to guiding companies if not, find good partner, plan carefully and you will be just fine.
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
606 Posts |
Posted - 01/19/2011 : 12:00 AM
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quote:
Zeljkok: I see that you been up Kilimanjaro. How did your body react above 5000+m? Were you ok with altitude? What was your acclimatization process?
Side remark on Cho Oyu: I've been up Gokyo valley up to 5th lake (normal route up to Cho Oyu base camp). Even if you don't make it up to the summit, it is worth coming there -- 8000+ HImalayan giants stradling the border between Tibet and Nepal in your face from Scoundrel Ridge viewpoint. I will post TR on CT one of these days.
Re altitude on Kili. I knew what to expect from previous trips to Andes and Himalayas, so I was better prepared. I started feeling symptoms above 3500. I drank a lot, I walked slowly and as long as I had appetite I didn't worry too much. Contrary to what most recommend, I find afternoon naps before dinner helpful. Good practice is to try to go up couple of hundred meters above camp after dinner, then come down lower to sleep.
On Kili I went up by Lemosho Glades route which gives you couple of extra days of acclimatization. Final summit push is from Barafu camp at 4600; you start at 11 pm and climb all night under flashlight up giant scree slope to Stella Point; then last few hundred meters along the rim to the summit. That was physically the hardest night in my life. Lots of people puking and turning back. I witnessed helicopter coming down to evacuate someone at Barafu. I took Diamox the night before; it makes your blood more acidic, which helps carry the oxygen. There are side effects -- peripheral neuropathy, metallic taste -- but it will go away. In retrospect I think it made the difference. Strangely enough I was feeling better above 5000 than lower, but I attribute that to adrenaline rush as I knew I was going to make it at that point.
I posted online Picasa slide show from Kili here: http://picasaweb.google.com/zeljkok.calgary/KilimanjaroTanzania# |
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253 Posts |
Posted - 01/25/2011 : 8:43 PM
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I changed my mind.
Radmila: I always bug you through email and you always never fail to reply. Your Logan trip inspired me a lot. Thank you!
Zeljkok: Love reading your TR abroad.
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253 Posts |
Posted - 10/01/2011 : 07:30 AM
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| Zoran: Thanks for your great advice. I think I'm going to solo the Polish Direct. I don't know when, but my heart says to do it. |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 10/01/2011 : 09:42 AM
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I would be happy to assist if necessary. I have some connections with gear manufacturers and possibly lower the cost of the some specific gear items. I am talking about high altitude things (gloves, jacket etc.)
Polish Direct could be a snow climb or serious ice climb. It's a hit or miss. You have to keep building confidence on ice. You are on good track with recent climbs. Also being alone on a big slope could be terrifying.
I recently got very interesting book from UK. I think you will like it. It's electronic and I could dump it somewhere for you to download, for your bedtime reading.
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Edited by - Zoran on 10/01/2011 10:35 AM |
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253 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2012 : 10:35 AM
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| Successfully summited Aconcagua. Definitely, a great experience and some important lessons to reflect on. |
Edited by - bcroadtrip on 03/05/2012 11:09 AM |
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
1606 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2012 : 10:59 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by bcroadtrip
Successfully summited Aconcagua.
You're on a roll! Congrats. |
Edited by - Steventy on 03/05/2012 8:13 PM |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
462 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2012 : 8:00 PM
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Excellent news ...
It will be great to see full report. Was it cold in Spantik's? Did you have overboots ... How good was food in Mendoza after the trip? |
Edited by - Zoran on 03/05/2012 8:01 PM |
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 canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru
Surrey Hole, BC
Canada
6782 Posts |
Posted - 03/05/2012 : 8:10 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by bcroadtrip
Successfully summited Aconcagua. Definitely, a great experience and some important lessons to reflect on.
Congrats!
Sounds like alot of prep and then a serious mindset to do this  |
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Climbing Denali and Aconcagua
