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 Trail cuttin, GPS packin bushwhacker, wiki hike compilin, who is now Hope-less
2543 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 9:46 PM
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Over the August long weekend Theresa and I headed off to Lillooet to a rarely visited area of the Stein Valley - Brimful Lake and Cattle Valley. As far as I know I haven't seen any trip reports to this area, aside from a trek or two in via the Siwhe Creek Trail from Lytton.
Access to the area has traditionally been from Texas Creek Road, which up until last year was washed out and inaccessible. Kudos to Gordon White's fantastic Stein Valley book for the details of these little-known trails.
Texas Creek Road itself is in great shape - we made it in a stock "moderate-to-low clearance" Ford Escape 4wd most of the way. We walked the last 1.5km from the Texas Creek East Fork / West Fork junction, beyond which had some deep water bars.
 
Texas Creek Road to Brimful Lake
It's difficult to explain where the trail to Brimful Lake begins without a map - basically you follow Texas Creek Road, taking the left fork at N50.43567 W121.93706. There is another junction at N50.42257 W121.93850 - the left fork leads to an unnamed trail to a tarn, while the right fork leads to the Brimful Lake Trail. Head straight to the end of the road - the trail continues straight off of the end.
Amazingly, we saw evidence of a horseback rider who completely cleared all deadfall off of the trail! Beyond the forest the trail climbs through a lush green meadow, and up a rocky canyon filled with heather before reaching the park boundary at the Stein Divide.
           
It's easy to loose the trail at the divide. It appears as though the horsemen may continue straight ahead, leading down the ridge to a valley with a small tarn below. The trail fades here - it's possible to hike back up out of the valley to regain the trail, or to continue down the valley and traversing along it's northern slopes (heading west) to reach a small lake in the alpine. It looked like there might have been some peak-bagging/scrambling opportunities there, but I've never seen it described in any guide and we didn't explore that direction. The valley ends above Cottonwood Creek, so you'd ultimately need to return the way you came.
Rather than heading down into that valley, turn left and scramble up the ridge that comprises the Stein Divide. After about 50 meters of easy scrambling, the trail becomes visible again and leads off to the right to curve around the mountain. The trail was surrounded by multiple colors of blooming heather as far as the eye could see.
      
Beyond the heather meadows, the trail descends a ridge to a large plateau surrounding the lake. It was mainly heather, with rocks strewn about. There is a relatively new pit toilet and metal food cache here on a hill away from the lake. The best camping is actually in a lush, green area next to a creek that skirts around the lake on one side. The lake was a lot bigger than I had imagined!
    
Brimful Lake to Southwest Ridge
After dinner, I was somewhat bored and wandered off to explore a ridge leading southwest from the lake. I climbed back up the hill we descended to the plateau, then scrambled over two peaks before getting a (smokey!) view of the Cottonwood Creek valley. I descended the ridge to the west and went "cross-country" over solid wildflowers back to the Brimful Lake plateau and campsite.
      
Brimful Lake to Southeast Ridge (failed)
The next day we were planning on hiking out of the Brimful Lake basin/plateau heading east towards the alpine ridges and Devils Lake. Using Gordon's guidebook we reversed the directions of one of his routes and began scrambling up the ridge that surrounds the lake. We headed southeast, climbing up over bedrock before finally attempting to scramble up a very steep, loose dirt and gravel slope to the ridge crest.
      
It was suicide. I have no idea why anyone would want to ascend or descend there - you're liable to get yourself killed. After hanging on some extremely unstable rocks and having the ground come out from under me for some time (while getting eaten alive by mosquitos), we finally said to hell with this and descended all the way back to the lake, our bodies mostly intact. The route has very little to recommend about it and was profanity-inducing.
Brimful Lake to "Round Summit" via Pass
I somehow managed to convince Theresa to attempt another escape from the lake rather than do the sane thing and camp another night at the lake. I had seen a pass northeast of the lake, but Gordon's book mentioned the route (via what he called "Rainbow Ridge") was more difficult than the route we had just failed attempting. I figured it was worth a try anyways - the top of the ridge sounded easy and we could traverse over to the other route while avoiding the nasty ascent from the lake.
We traversed around the steep meadows along the lake and climbed up to the pass, finding a steep cliff on the other side. We debated camping in the pass, but finally decided to attempt an ascent of the steep hillside there. Unlike the other route, this slope was solid ground with heather and occasional cluster of shrubbery. About half-way up and my legs burning, I was ready to give up and camp at the bloody lake one more night. I channeled enough energy to gain the top of the ridge, finally reaching the top. Horray!
              
Theresa was completely wasted. She wasn't sure if she could keep going and wasn't thrilled that I hadn't just setup camp at the lake. We discussed camping on the ridge in one partially sheltered location, but I was fairly worried about lightning storms - we had one less than 24 hours before. We continued up the ridge, traversing around patches of snow before reaching the true summit (directly east of the lake). From here, I followed Gordon's directions and found a fantastic, easy descend route.
     
We continued downhill until reaching the depression between the "descend ridge" and the purple-ish colored "Round Peak". Managed to find a spot to camp in the interesting location and cooked dinner at dusk, completely exhausted.
 
"Round Summit" to Cattle Valley
The next day we packed up and easily climbed to the top of the "Round Summit". Far below was Cattle Valley - something I had not even heard of before. It was absolutely incredible - a lush green valley, completely untouched wilderness, stretching as far as I could see. Apparently cattle are driven into the valley via the Siwhe Creek Trail from Lytton. We debated whether we should descend the easy south side of the summit then traverse around it in the valley, or just descend the steeper north side through the meadows. Lazyness won out, and we descended through the steep marmot-holed meadows to the valley bottom.
        
Cattle Valley to "Demonic Tarn"
We had rested at the bottom of the valley, near the head of Cattle Creek and had lunch. Cow tracks were everywhere, but no cows - they must have been in the lower portions of the valley. I'm surprised they were out there - wouldn't they make great grizzly or wolf snacks? What's for lunch? Steak!
On the way down to the valley we had noticed a trail leading up the opposite side - likely the end of the Siwhe Creek cattle trail. Unfortunately, we were unable to locate it in the maze of cow tracks and ultimately had to bushwack up the ridge to the trail. I ran back down and up that bloody ridge two more times, mapping out the various trails with my GPS for future trips - the trails aren't shown on any map that I know of!
We followed the Siwhe Creek trail through the meadows heading northeast. I wanted to camp at Devils Lake but my reports said that camping was limited there, goats had been turned into stone, hikers were lured to their deaths by water maiden spirits, and I was just too damn tired. At a creek crossing we turned left and climbed up to the tarn that acts as the source for Siwhe Creek and Devils Lake. As far as I know it's unnamed, but since just about everything else in this area is unnamed, for the purpose of this trip report I'm calling it "Demonic Tarn" (source of Devils Lake's power?). It's actually quite pleasant. Feel free to tell me the correct name 
A curious young marmot wandered right up to us and posed on the ridge for some photos.
           
 
"Demonic Tarn" to Texas Creek Road via Unnamed Trail
Starting (or ending) at the tarn is an unnamed trail leading back down to Texas Creek Road. If you decide to do the loop, I strongly recommend starting the hike using it and returning via the Brimful Lake trail - it's much easier traveling in the opposite direction that we did. The trail is easy to follow and relatively uneventful - it descends from a pass next to the tarn, through a shallow valley and down to Texas Creek Road. I'd really like to know what the name of the tarn and the trail are, if you happen to know!
     
A fantastic trip - I'm definitely going to be back to explore the Siwhe Creek Trail to Devils Lake and the ridges that extend towards "Earlobe Lake" above the Stein Valley "proper". |
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Big pack hiker who sleeps with bears in tent and falls on slippery logs
Langley, BC
Canada
7647 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 9:55 PM
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| Great TR Eric! You should post a little pic/map of the route... sweet! |
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 Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13466 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 9:59 PM
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Superb TR, Eric. An extensive and enjoyable array of fine photos captioned by great narratives. A lot of information here. You really show in detail the wonderful beauty of this area. I was up the Stein River Valley as part of a crew for the forestry ministry in 1984. We never really got that high to see the beauty of this area.
K |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4649 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 10:06 PM
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Now that's the Stein that I'm talking about  ! That is pretty cool. Gonna have to look at my book a little more closely, definitely want to head in that area after your T/R. Thanks!  |
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Big pack hiker who sleeps with bears in tent and falls on slippery logs
Langley, BC
Canada
7647 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 10:08 PM
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| Sweet! Much better with maps! Wicked TR. |
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Langley, B.C
Canada
285 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 10:08 PM
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Awesome
I am definitely going to have to check out the Stein Valley area. |
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Trail cuttin, GPS packin bushwhacker, wiki hike compilin, who is now Hope-less
2543 Posts |
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canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru
Surrey Hole, BC
Canada
6788 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 11:00 PM
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| Thats some of the best info, T/R posted on this area in many seasons, if not ever.Job well done! |
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Raincouver, British Columbia
Canada
712 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 11:14 PM
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| Thanks for this trip report. I also have Gordon's guide and have contemplated heading up to this area and of course now I want to go ever more. If I do go, could I perhaps have a copy of your gpx file? |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
2661 Posts |
Posted - 08/10/2010 : 11:27 PM
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Great exploration, you two! 
I'm always impressed by how far off the beaten path you get. |
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Port Douglas, BC
Canada
430 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2010 : 10:22 AM
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| very nice...did the stein 15 years ago, from upper to lower, 100+km through trip, now I wanna go back and do this part, look at it on maps all the time! now I know Texas creek is good, I am heading there! |
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over the hills and far away
Canada
709 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2010 : 5:13 PM
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| Very nice.... great info, thanks. Also hoping to head up that way soon. Looks beautiful. |
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877 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2010 : 8:05 PM
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| Looks like a real nice area for exploring. Interesting report to read and the maps were great for reference. |
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Raincouver, British Columbia
Canada
712 Posts |
Posted - 09/15/2010 : 2:02 PM
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Belated thanks to Shadowchaser for this report. Using the info a group of 13 of us headed up to Brimful Lake on the Labour Day long weekend. We headed into the lake to set up a base camp then divided up into groups to some exploring, ridgewalks and scrambles. One of our groups even saw a wolverine!
We had some snow and fog on the hike in and snow overnight on the Saturday, which had all melted by 11:00am the next day. We had intermittent snow and fog on Monday on the way out. The lake is at about 2100m so that's where the freezing line is at in that area.
Road Report: We had a Nissan XTerra, a Dodge Dakota and a Chevy Avalanche. They all made it to the last fork before the trailhead where the road is wide enough to park a few vehicles on the shoulder. There are a LOT of water bars from the 19.7km parking area onwards and they are deep! Our two longer cars had some hitch scraping on a few of them, and a few of them were quite muddy, but all cars made it through ok to the 21.2km junction (final junction before the trailhead). The last 500m to the trailhead are not driveable so don't bother trying.
Thanks again to Shadowchaser for this report. It's a beautiful area.
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12 Posts |
Posted - 04/17/2012 : 12:11 PM
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I am planing trip to Stein valley via Texas creek ( Brimful lake) access this summer. Your article was very helpful,but Texas creek trail down to Stein valley via Cottonwood creek is not described even in Gordon Whites guidebook! Do you (or anybody) has any knowledge or suggestions about condition of this trail?
I will scout Texas creek forestry rd on dirt bike,this May long weekend. Latest information I have, that it is closed because of grizzly bears until end of June. |
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133 Posts |
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Trail cuttin, GPS packin bushwhacker, wiki hike compilin, who is now Hope-less
2543 Posts |
Posted - 04/17/2012 : 12:54 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by trailcutter
I am planing trip to Stein valley via Texas creek ( Brimful lake) access this summer. Your article was very helpful,but Texas creek trail down to Stein valley via Cottonwood creek is not described even in Gordon Whites guidebook! Do you (or anybody) has any knowledge or suggestions about condition of this trail?
There's no trail - it's a very tough and steep scramble and bushwack, from what I understand. I'd need to check my maps, but I believe there were two routes - one involving Rainbow Ridge. |
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12 Posts |
Posted - 04/17/2012 : 4:55 PM
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If cows can make it to cattle valley,so should I.I didn't expect any highways up there but I hope descend down by cattle valley to Stein should by somehow possible. I can't see any obstacles ,like Kent falls,which stopped me from reaching Kent lake on the other side of Stein river during Easter long weekend.
That is exactly what I will attempt to do again early August.Are you (or anybody else) with me? |
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Trail cuttin, GPS packin bushwhacker, wiki hike compilin, who is now Hope-less
2543 Posts |
Posted - 04/17/2012 : 8:00 PM
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| The cattle are herded in via the Siwhe Creek trail. There are no cattle in the Stein Valley proper. Running your cows off of the side of a mountain isn't very profitable |
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