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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2010 : 09:54 AM
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Climbed n face of Joffre yesterday with Shaun (Nmcan84)on his birthday. All in all it was a very straightforward snow climb with excellent step kicking conditions. We didn't see any crevasses while crossing the glacier and even with a late start time of 5:30am we had a firm crust to travel on. This time we only stayed one day, hiking out after our climb but will definitely be going back and doing some of the nearby scrambles, the area and its beauty deserve more than a one nighter. The trail in was without complications, and mild exposure as Shaun mentioned.             |
Edited by - pathogy on 07/25/2010 4:24 PM
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2010 : 11:25 AM
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Not sure what happened but none of the view pics got posted...        |
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 Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
11102 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2010 : 5:01 PM
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Sure looks like a great trip! |
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 | LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2023 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2010 : 9:15 PM
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| For a second I thought that was Joffre in BC and was wondering where the couloirs were? Did a double - take & realized it was the aesthetic Alberta namesake - thx for the stoke |
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over the hills and far away
Canada
262 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2010 : 9:28 PM
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| Nice one... conditions look perfect, like you couldn't ask for better. |
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Intermediate Member
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coquitlam, B.C.
Canada
682 Posts |
Posted - 07/25/2010 : 9:56 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by LeeL
For a second I thought that was Joffre in BC and was wondering where the couloirs were? Did a double - take & realized it was the aesthetic Alberta namesake - thx for the stoke
Ditto. I couldn't place the scenery. Thought I was getting senile as I have spent a lot of time around OUR Joffre.
Looks like a great trip.
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 07/26/2010 : 4:02 PM
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| yeah conditions were absolutely perfect we've been lucky on most of our climb days so far this season!! |
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calgary, ab
Canada
100 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2010 : 08:09 AM
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awesome TR. congrats.
conditions look excellent. did you have to place any pro on the steep part of the face? |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2010 : 9:13 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by go_up
awesome TR. congrats.
conditions look excellent. did you have to place any pro on the steep part of the face?
No we didn't feel the need to as snow conditions were excellent for step kicking and there were no icy spots. We went around the right hand side of the rock band as well which was probably only 35-40 degrees at most and only that steep for a short section. We did stay roped up to save time but could have safely unroped for the walk up the ridge to the summit. |
Edited by - pathogy on 07/27/2010 9:17 PM |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
5026 Posts |
Posted - 07/27/2010 : 9:18 PM
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I have GOT to ski that. Not sure if I should go do it now or wait until spring when there's powder on it.
Nice pics. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 07/28/2010 : 4:33 PM
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| When we were hiking out on sat we met two guys just heading back with skis, conditions would have been good that weekend for sure, they had just received a little fresh snow. May be more ice by now, but it would be a great ski!! |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
2080 Posts |
Posted - 07/28/2010 : 11:11 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb
...I have GOT to ski that...
FUCK YAH!! I should NOT have clicked on this TR, 'cause now I've got a serious case of ski-fever. I bet I'd get more "skiing" out of the slope than you, 'cause you'd make six turns and I'd make sixty. Savour it... 
--------------------------------------------
Pat, nice to see you and Susie getting after it. Thanks for the awesome pics. |
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calgary, ab
Canada
100 Posts |
Posted - 07/30/2010 : 12:25 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb
I have GOT to ski that.
dammit, after seeing these pics, i was planning to go next weekend, but now that you've gone and said that, i might have to wait till next spring on skis. |
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Calgary, AB
Canada
55 Posts |
Posted - 08/01/2010 : 4:10 PM
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Went up Joffres' North Face on the weekend it was great, a little ice but not that bad.
Did you guys descend the North Face as well? |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 08:35 AM
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Yes, we were going to take the ridge if snow conditions deteriorated but they held out just fine, so we came back down the face. You?? The gully for ridge descent looked steeper than described, though we didn't go over to check it out.
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Calgary, AB
Canada
55 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 10:08 AM
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We just down climbed, there were two rap spots set up which we never bothered to use. It was pretty fast probably not as fast as going back down the face, some loose stuff above the legde on the way over to it though. I had originally thought the first photo was the down climb but its actually the gully with all the rocks comming out on the snow.
 
The second photo is looking back up the gully, it isn't too bad. It's probably quite a bit more difficult depending on conditions I would guess, really dono though.
Edit: Poor wording... It was more like slings on pitons I should have taken better photos... I was falling on my ass as I took this one... I would assume they might be covered if the gully filled with ice though?
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Edited by - Marlboro on 08/02/2010 6:06 PM |
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Calgary
93 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 10:29 AM
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| Later in the summer the North face and this descent gully can be all ice and then it is easier to rap the gully in two raps. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
105 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 11:22 AM
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| Thanks for the info, I would like to go back and climb the face when it is a little icy for some alpine ice practice. Would also go back to get Warrior and Cordonnier as they look like a fun trip! |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
2080 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 1:45 PM
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| Myself and a partner are going to do the face on August 21/22, and I bet there is quite a bit of ice then. My plan was to use abalakovs and rap the face, avoiding leaving pins or rock gear at the gully, but if there are bolts there, that's tempting. |
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Calgary, AB
Canada
55 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 6:33 PM
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| Just slings and pitons I had thought; they might get covered by ice though Johngenx. I'll be more specific and take better pictures next time. |
Edited by - Marlboro on 08/02/2010 6:40 PM |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
2080 Posts |
Posted - 08/02/2010 : 6:47 PM
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Fixed pins can be good, but I'm not keen on old slings. I'd probably use the pitons and replace the material. I usually have a small selection of pins just in case...
...but, rapping the face sounds more fun. Better views! |
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N Face of Joffre
