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Calgary, AB
52 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 10:39 AM
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Been lurking for a while, but after reading the thread on the scramble route up Athabasca, I decided to post this as another (much easier) scramble in the Icefields region:
I'm sure a fair number of people know about this one, but I did a search on the CT site and didn't see anything about it.
Boundary Peak is a small sub-peak off of Mt. Athabasca, right on the boundary between Banff & Jasper NP's. I originally found out about this one on the climb day of the Snow & Ice Long Weekend course I took with Yamnuska last year. We had already decided that it was too dangerous to go for Mt. Athabasca, since there hadn't been a hint of a freeze in the last week and it was +15 at the climber's parking lot at 3:30, so we were going for either A2 or A3, which still required the early start. We easily walked across the North Athabasca glacier to the Boundary/Athabasca Col, but one of the guides had to return down our ascent route with a client that had somehow aggrevated an old back injury. With isothermal conditions, 6 clients, and only 1 guide, we decided against continuing to A2/A3 and instead scrambled along the ridge to Boundary Peak.
It was walking along this ridge that I realized what a nice easy scramble this would be (without requiring any glacier travel), providing much better views than Mt. Wilcox and other more popular scrambles in the area.
To scramble Boundary Peak, start at the climber's parking lot for Mt. Athabasca, but ascend the trail to the left of the bridge over the glacial stream. Follow the trail through the meadows and plateaus until you reach the foot of the scree slope below the summit, where some well worn paths will help you avoid slogging directly up open scree slopes. From the summit there are very good views of Mt. Athabasca, A2/A3, Hilda Lake (unofficial name I think), Wilcox Pass, and much more.
To get even closer views of Mt. Athabasca, you can continue to scramble along the ridge between Boundary Peak and the Boundary/Athabasca Col (this ridge is actually an extension of the NE Ridge of Mt. Athabasca). You can go all the way to the Col or stop wherever you want, but anything past the Col is the traditional NE Ridge route up Mt. Athabasca.
Some pics of the route and the rest of the Snow & Ice Long Weekend course:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/48227459@N00/sets/72157606065557787/
Overall, I would describe this as a short and easy scramble, but the ridge walk to the col might be more toward moderate (using Kane's ratings). As with most easy scrambles, I would do this one more for the views and relaxation than any sort of physical challenge, but I think it could be quite an enjoyable trip in that context. I can't imagine this route taking people more than 4 to 6 hours, but that's a bit of a guess since we only descended it.
Given our early start, we had plenty of time to enjoy the views from the col and the summit, then to lounge in the meadows and watch the group of Big Horn sheep that were grazing there. |
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Whistler, BC
Canada
1174 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 11:26 AM
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| Nice shots. Recognize your instructor as well. |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 11:33 AM
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Boundary affords spectacular views of Athabasca, and if memory serves, is actually a little higher than Wilcox. It certainly is situated better. For beginner mountaineers it's a fun scramble that can be approached using glacier travel from Hilda Lake and up the A2 Glacier or up climber's left along the North Glacier (also known as "Little A Glacier").
We were at the Icefields when you did your course. It had turned hot and with a lot of snow, the avy hazard was unacceptable on Athabasca, so we bailed. We'd finished some mountaineering in Yoho, so we just took advantage of the weather and went rock climbing in the Bow Valley.
Are you interested in returning to do Athabasca? The peak has become a favourite of mine and I try to lead a handful of trips with novice groups each summer. This weekend, in fact, we're heading up the North Glacier route. We're full up tomorrow, but next spring/summer we'll be back. Let me know. |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 11:38 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by msulkers
Nice shots. Recognize your instructor as well.
No shit. Living legend in alpinism. We shared a couple cold ones with James that very weekend and his stories about his first time on Athabasca and Robson were priceless! To quote James...
"We bivvied next to this large ice blocks and figured we'd found a great spot as they really cut the wind. We woke the next morning and saw where they'd come from. We nearly shit our pants!"
Him and his buddy had come from the SW US rock climbing scene to check out the Rockies. Well, I guess they liked it, as we know James' history. But, talk about taking a big bite. They took on Athabasca's NF as a warm up for Robson, and those were pretty much their first climbs here. |
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Calgary, AB
52 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 12:31 PM
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johngenx: I returned to do Athabasca a few weeks later. We had perfect blue bird conditions and spent almost an hour on the summit after getting to the top at about 8:30:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/48227459@N00/sets/72157606569727235/
I would definitely love to head up there again, either by the N. Glacier or Silverhorn routes, so thanks for the invite.
I've done a few climbs with the ACC, but don't manage to get out there too often, mostly because most of the climbs I'd like to do are a little out of my league until I build up a little more experience.
I agree, our guide, James Blench, has to be my favorite guide I've met - very laid back and freely offering knowledge and advice and he was able to completely control a large group without ever being patronizing. He was with my group for both the Snow & Ice course as well as the Athabasca climb later on. |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 1:10 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by sauerboarder
I would definitely love to head up there again, either by the N. Glacier or Silverhorn routes, so thanks for the invite.
The Silverhorn is one of my favourite routes on any peak. Close to 500M of alpine ice climbing, great views, and actually less objective hazard compared to the normal route, as there is only a small period spent under seracs. Wish I'd done it again this year, so I'll be super eager next summer...
(A friend of mine wants to do a winter ascent of the route and ski down it. Way out of my ski mountaineering league, unfortunately, but if anyone is nuts enough...) |
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Okotoks, Alberta
Canada
326 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2009 : 7:53 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
Are you interested in returning to do Athabasca? The peak has become a favourite of mine and I try to lead a handful of trips with novice groups each summer. This weekend, in fact, we're heading up the North Glacier route. We're full up tomorrow, but next spring/summer we'll be back. Let me know.
If you don't mind keeping me in the loop, certainly interested in doing it sometime with more experienced people. |
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Boundary Peak
