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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
1198 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 10:43 AM
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2009-08-09
This was day three of the Aster Lake camping trip. The plan for this day was to go up Mount Northover. The friend I was camping with was not comfortable trying it and was planning to stay at the campsite. A couple of my friends were supposed to come in and join us at Aster Lake, however, after a downpour and hail, I was fairly certain that my friends had abandoned their plan and I was going solo.
I got up before sunrise, ate a couple of granola bars and was on my way. I really wanted to do the south ridge and had spent most of the night before studying the route photos to make sure I didnt get myself into a bind. But as I was making my way towards it, I started to convince myself that maybe it wasnt a good idea. The rock was still wet, there were still clouds in the area and it could have rained more and I was by myself. I convinced myself that I would leave the south ridge for another time and try the north approach.
It was still supposed to be a difficult scramble from the north. Trip reports talked about loose rock, lots of slabs, butt scooting and exposure. When I got to the pass, I pulled out the photocopied page from Alan Kanes book and tried to figure out the route. His photo had a lot more snow and there was hardly any when I approached it. Also, it was taken from further back, so I had some trouble lining it up.
I went up climbers left of the little snow patch and would later find out the easier route was right of the snow. The route I took did connect with the correct line, but instead of following it, I followed what looked like a trail leading to the ridge. It seems a few people have gone this way. This led to an extremely exposed ridge that looked like it might go. I started climbing up it and quickly realized that I shouldnt be. The exposure was just so extreme, the rock was really loose and soon as I realized I shouldn't be on it, I climbed back down and needed a moment (or five) to relax.
It was after this point that I finally got on the correct route and before I even knew it I was at the summit.
Really if on the right route, theres hardly any scrambling and hardly any exposure. Its barely a difficult scramble. There are two slabs that are a little tricky and in no time youre standing on the summit. The way to tell if youre on the right route is to look for the climbing bolts. It seems two sections here have been bolted, Ive indicated them in the route photo below.
The whole time I was in the clouds. There were a few rain drops, but it never rained on me. It did add to the airy/exposed feeling. I kind of regretted not going up the south ridge for the challenge, but I think it was the right decision. I went over to the south ridge and peaked at the crux, it didnt look that bad. Ill have to try it next time.
I was the only entry in the register for 2009. Considering the scary trip reports, I'm not surprised it doesn't see many people. An interesting entry dating back to 1991 mentioned a nude ascent... sounds painful. :)
My ascent route in red, descent route in green:
Photos:
              
More photos:
http://markostavric.fotki.com/2009/20090809/ |
Edited by - Marko on 08/11/2009 12:15 PM
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2421 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 11:29 AM
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Great photos as usual, Marko.
I can't even begin to imagine the scratches, dents, nick and scars that someone would have after doing a nude ascent. Might have been cool to be there when it happpened, though, just to find out. |
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Telkwa
1176 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 5:56 PM
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| I love this area. It is one of the most beautiful anywhere. Good for you on your summit. |
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Okotoks, Alberta
Canada
326 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 7:00 PM
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| Wow - you have been busy last weekend Marko. Great job and keep those reports and pictures coming! |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
1198 Posts |
Posted - 08/11/2009 : 7:51 PM
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| Wietse, yeah lately I've been having trouble thinking of anything else. :) |
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calgary, ab
Canada
122 Posts |
Posted - 08/12/2009 : 09:16 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by Marko
that's classic, and potentially inspiring. hehe |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
109 Posts |
Posted - 08/16/2009 : 08:51 AM
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Great report Marko, and thanks for the pics they are inspiring. We have been working like crazy over the past few weeks and have not had much time to get out so are now living vicariously through people such as yourself!! :) Thanks again.
Pat
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207 Posts |
Posted - 08/16/2009 : 10:49 AM
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Well done!
Route finding's often the issue with Kane's scrambles. He's not too precise on some of them but I guess he figures if you're experienced enough to be attempting it, you should be able to find the route. Even on route, some of his stuff can be pretty hairy. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
1198 Posts |
Posted - 08/16/2009 : 9:27 PM
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Pat, love sharing the photos. :)
Howes, yeah, sometimes too a scramble can be hyped up in ones mind. Northover is one of these, you would not believe how many people were trying to convince me not to do it because it's "too dangerous." It actually made me expect something a lot more tougher (even on the north ridge), so when I got off route I was wondering if it was supposed to be that difficult. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
617 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2009 : 1:02 PM
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Good job Marko. Northover is like any other difficult scramble - it's only really scary when you're off route. I remember finding the crux easy compared to what I was on 5 minutes previous to that! :-)
I also remember that the descent was only bad if you didn't choose your path carefully. We followed your descent route almost exactly - I remember passing both pins.
V. |
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Calgary, Alberta
Canada
1198 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2009 : 1:27 PM
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| Vern, I actually had a print out of your trip report and when my friend read it, she tried to convince me not to do it. Pretty scary trip report. :) It was definitely one of the factors in me going around the north way. I'll have to go back and try the south ridge sometime. |
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Mount Northover
