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 Alberta
 edith cavell and a CT trip East Ridge
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telkwa
Senior Member


Telkwa
1176 Posts

 Posted - 07/28/2009 :  5:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply to this posting
Met up with LarryL and Lofty to try for the summit of Edith Cavell. Met in Jasper Friday night and the weather reports were iffy and the climbing ranger telling us that there was way too much snow. So we didn't go up to the parking lot and get into position. We did chose a parking lot to camp in where in the middle of night the park ranger told us we had to relocate. good thing we have a movable tent. Next day, due to the move in the middle of the night and now waiting for another member to join, we didn't get up to the Cavell parking lot until later. Weather iffy but we decided to go up to the col and wait for Larry and Lofty at the bivi spot. Unfortunately a huge thunderstorm and resulting rain made us change our minds. We got back to the parking lot in a big dripping mess. Now the new plan was to head out in the morning from the cavell parking lot. Nobody cared that we had our small tent in the lot, fortunately. A few cars arrived in the middle of the night and headed up early. Larry and Lofty also started before us but they ran into some tech difficulties and we passed on by and hoped we would still get the summit together. However on we pushed. It was a beautiful climb, a bit of loose rock, a tiny bit of icy snow and alot of swirling clouds. We climbed as fast as we could up because we were afraid we would lose the weather but in the end just as we summited the clouds parted and it became a nice day. The scree ski down the west ridge was dreadful. I can't even imagine why anyone would go up - it would be so hard! Then the long pound out the trail back to the parking lot. We were pretty tired by the time we got back. Then off to Jasper where the pizza place delivered to the bar. Cool.

wbylsma
Junior Member


Okotoks, Alberta
Canada

326 Posts

 Posted - 07/28/2009 :  5:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice pictures and congrats!

time2clmb
Advanced Member

Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor


6302 Posts

 Posted - 07/28/2009 :  5:58 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice! How many hours total?

David and Karen
Intermediate Member


Maple Ridge, BC
Canada

780 Posts

 Posted - 07/28/2009 :  7:46 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:





I was just at the lake for my first time 2 weeks ago, it was amazing seeing that sheer, steep face of Cavell...but to think this shot is taken from up on that sheer face... Wow! That gives me vertigo!

Kudos on a very nice accomplishment!
Karen

telkwa
Senior Member


Telkwa
1176 Posts

 Posted - 07/28/2009 :  9:50 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks it was a beautiful climb. At the summit ridge you could peer over the edge and see the parking lot, we could hear someone playing a tuba and it sounded wonderful, I was wondering if anyone could see little climbers up on the ridge.

It took us about 7 hours to reach the summit from the parking lot, then we hung out on the summit for awhile - maybe an hour - we took a long time descending and then took a break in the meadow for awhile - probably a few hours and then hoofed it out pretty fast to try and beat nightfall. We got on the Astoria and almost made it but by the tiime we got to the parking lot (upper after we ditched our packs in the bush)it was 11 pm. We were the last party to go up so it took us from car to car 13 hours say including the breaks on top and in verdant meadows.

lobo
Senior Member


Jasper, ab
Canada

1041 Posts

 Posted - 07/28/2009 :  10:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Really nice pictures. I was up Verdant pass on Saturday, I always wondered what it looked like from the top of Cavell.

Marko
Senior Member


Calgary, Alberta
Canada

1266 Posts

 Posted - 07/29/2009 :  12:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice work and photos! I love this shot; climbing into the clouds!
quote:


ClubTread Supporter

Spunky
Advanced Member

bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack

Surrey, BC
Canada

4663 Posts

 Posted - 07/29/2009 :  1:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Wow congrats ! That's fine looking mountain . Just looking at some of your pictures gives me vertigo

Mtraslin
Intermediate Member


north vancouver, british columbia
Canada

605 Posts

 Posted - 07/29/2009 :  1:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great trip!

I love how you guys stayed cool considering the weather!

johngenx
Advanced Member


Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3523 Posts

 Posted - 07/29/2009 :  3:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I see you're roped up. Did you simul-climb it all, or did you pitch out some of it? Did you consider rapping down the E ridge and shortening your day? Great work!!

telkwa
Senior Member


Telkwa
1176 Posts

 Posted - 07/29/2009 :  4:45 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
It was a fun climb and chilly - which was strange considering everyone else was baking. Yes, lots of exposure on the route but thats what makes it fun.

We simulclimbed after the shoulder for most of it, put pro in on the crux but didn't really need to and then short roped the upper. We did think about just rapping back down but we wanted to do the traverse. If ever a next time, definitly rap back down. But you've gotta do it once!

Edited by - telkwa on 07/29/2009 4:47 PM

Peak Bagger
Senior Member

Moxie scambler of pinnacles, tireless leader haunting the CDN/US border climbing everything in sight

Burnaby, BC
Canada

1275 Posts

 Posted - 07/30/2009 :  08:56 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great stuff, Telkwa! Thanks for sharing! We actually went up AND down the west ridge in a long day a few years back. Painful. Next time, it's the east ridge for sure.

PB
ClubTread Supporter

Too Many Canyons
Advanced Member

Simpson quoting tree hunter and canyon rapping rockhound who longs for the return of his trapped Toyota

Salt Lake City, UT
USA

2268 Posts

 Posted - 07/30/2009 :  09:25 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Great-looking trip. The more reports I see on the EC routes, the more I'd like to go there. The tuba player in the parking lot would be a little surreal, though

telkwa
Senior Member


Telkwa
1176 Posts

 Posted - 07/30/2009 :  7:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The tuba song drifting up on the wind was incredible! may i always been serenaded on a mountain top by a tuba!

johngenx
Advanced Member


Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3523 Posts

 Posted - 07/30/2009 :  7:53 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Some friends of mine did the E Ridge last year, and they ran into Fred Beckey. 85 years old and he soloed it, including downclimbing the route (no rapping as he had no rope/harness) and did it faster than the reasonably strong pair of my friends.

I heard he soloed the NF of Mt. Stanley recently. Hardman.

team_kearny
Starting Member



1 Posts

 Posted - 07/31/2009 :  3:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
hey what did you guys bring for a rock rack?

EAK
Senior Member


Abbotsford, BC
Canada

1009 Posts

 Posted - 07/31/2009 :  11:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice trip Kathie...great route!

nmcan84
Intermediate Member



981 Posts

 Posted - 08/03/2009 :  11:21 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Nice shots!

I did the east ridge this past saturday. Great climb! Alot easier than i thought it would be.

I will post my report as soon as i get all my pic's sorted.

telkwa
Senior Member


Telkwa
1176 Posts

 Posted - 08/04/2009 :  5:29 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The rack used was just a partial. only used the 1.5 and 2.5 friends and a couple of small nuts. Didn't really need to use much gear. New slings are in place. There is at least one pin that I recall on route
ClubTread Supporter

Flowing-Brook
Advanced Member


Popkum, BC
Canada

5902 Posts

 Posted - 08/04/2009 :  5:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Woah good one team! If only I could have the stamina and courage that you possess!

mick range
Extreme Hoser

Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass

AKA

Dances with Trees

Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada

13090 Posts

 Posted - 08/05/2009 :  12:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Love it, I was just in the Rockies and admiring Edith Cavell, yet again
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