| Author |
Topic |
 Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
3996 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 12:11 AM
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This mountain has the closest glacier to Vancouver. It can be seen from parts of the lower mainland, yet these days it is very seldom climbed. Vehicle access from the Stawamus/Indian River FSR has been barred for the past five years or so (that's why people have to walk so far to get to Sky Pilot). The approaches from there on old logging roads are pretty bushy as was the route a group of us from CT decided to take.
Scott Nelson (hike) and Robin Tivy (ski) have done trips coming in from the north using the Mamquam FSR as access. Using information from their reports and looking at the topos plans were hatched over time. Quiet a bit of time in fact, but on Saturday it all came together.
I and others have been wanting to do this mountain for a very long time. When I visited Mount Gillespie back in Oct 05 I got this shot of Meslilloet. This gave a good idea of the ridge involved in a northern approach and so it all started.
 The ridge centre of shot is our planned route.
Burnabyhiker has been keen to ascend the peak and did a couple of bike trips last year up the Stawamus/Indian River FSR to do some scouting. He didn't get too close and eventually came round to trying this way .
He happened to mention our plans to culater and Too Many Canyons at a BCMC function and they quickly signed on. Shrubhugger who has a history of rather long days spent in the mountains with me cleared his schedule and our team was set.
With two vehicles we made it up the Mamquam FSR past E Main (where you turn up to head for the peaks above Pinecone Lake) and then onto S-100. About 3km up there is a huge washout so we parked near there (800m elevation), kitted up and walked another half km or so up the road. We entered the forest near a creek next to a cut block and headed upwards.
At first the forest is open and the terrain though steep is easy going. Past the edge of the cut block it starts to get cliffy and we are funnelled into a creek/waterfall area. Things get quite steep here. TMC (Chris H) and BH (Chris M) elect to scramble up the creek whilst Shrubhugger (Ramsay), culater (Vlad) and myself use bushes and trees to pull ourselves up.
After that the forest becomes more dense as we continue still steeply up. I've been taking a few waypoints and flagging the route here and there which became very helpful on the return.
As we near some cliffing above us we contour to our left and traverse over heading for a pass between a couple of minor peaks. Another steep section on slick mossy rock and some more bushy stuff and we get to the pass and have a rest.
A couple of days before the trip I'd sent everyone a topo with a rough route drawn in. Vlad had lost his copy, but did up another one which was quite similar but with more detail. We all took a look and figured out where we were going next.
From the pass we drop down a little and work our way around a peak east of us. Then we go up for a bit before dropping downwards towards what I think is Triple Point Lake (so named by Robin Tivy on Bivouac.com as it is around three drainages or something like that).
 Onroute to above Triple Point Lake area.
Contouring around the south side of the lake we ascend steeply on heathered slopes to gain the ridge that we will be following all the way southwards towards our goal. Meslilloet was now coming into view, but it's a long ways off.
 Looking down at Triple Point Lake. Gillespie is rear left and Pollen Peak is centre right.
Before writing about the ridge walk, I'd like to formally introduce you to the group. This also gives an idea of the varied terrain we experienced, though I did not take any pictures of the initial ascent out of the valley (where most of the bushwacking was).
     
1. Ramsay somewhere after the pass.
2. Chris M. gaining the lower part of the ridge.
3. Vlad on the lower part of the ridge with Mount Gillispie behind.
4. Chris H. around the middle of the ridge
5. Me further along the ridge.
6. Original route idea with red dots showing actual.
 On the start of the ridge proper, the lake below with Peak 6500 (Seed) and Mount Gillespie at rear.
Now we are onto some fine open ridge walking with a lot of ups and downs. There were a couple of peaks we could bypass, but others we had to go over.
 An idea of the terrain. Garibaldi aways back.
 Meslilloet in the distance. We're heading for the bump on the left (which is followed by some even bigger bumps).
 Eastward view towards the Old Pierre area I think.
 A look back. We gained the ridge on the bump centre of picture and bypassed the knoll near right.
 Well, it seems to be getting closer.
Getting to the top of another knoll we see we have two more substantial peaklets to go over. Unfortunately, Chris H. was feeling a little under the weather and he decided to take a rest whilst we carried on. Later on he would ascend the two peaks further ahead and then chill out awaiting our return.
Onwards we go to gain the first peaklet and then it's higher neighbour (1907m). Our ridge continues south for a bit before joining up with the east ridge of Meslilloet.
 East Ridge on the right. Five Finger Spires rear left.
Not wanting to make the trip longer than it already is we decided to head onto the upper Meslilloet Glacier at a point seen around centre left of the shot above.
 Looking across the glacier towards the summit area.
Crossing the upper glacier was no problem and I get onto rock again and wait for the other guys to join me.
 Here they come. Left of centre is where we got onto the glacier.
 Ramsay and Vlad. Bonnycastle is the broad peak at right and Five Finger is rear left.
Now, the fun scrambling begins as we work our way up a smooth slab and then onto a ramp. Chris M. goes more to the south on easier slopes whilst the rest of us use finger holds on grippy rock and then steep snow. As I make my way towards the final summit block I see fresh mountain goat tracks and just catch a glimpse of the goat as he disappears around the south side of the peak.
We all join up again and then head on up to the peak. None of us tried the 4th class east face route but did 3 different variations on the southeast to east face. Pretty easy going on 3rd class rock with one or two tough moves thrown in for good measure.
I get to the top and feel the strong elation of bagging a demanding peak. I scramble up the
summit boulder and take in the grand views. It's hazy out, but the views all around are mighty good none the less.
 ESE view towards Bonnycastle. The Pitt Divide peaks from Five Finger Spires to Coquitlam Mountain behind. Robie Reid is visible way back on the left.
 Three other exuberant summiteers. I think Mount Felix (no, it's Hixon Peak) is the snow covered peak behind Chris M.
After a bunch of handshaking, we took some pictures, searched in vain for the summit log in the cairn and thought about the long way back.
  
1. Vlad and myself on the summit block (1992m).
2. Looking back down at our route on the upper east ridge and glacier along with the ridge approach leading off to the left.
3. Chris M., Vlad, Ramsay and myself.
Heading off the peak we took the easier route down.
 Where's Chris? The route to the summit basically follow the bushy ramp and then whatever looks good to the top (left skyline is the easiest).
 Vlad walking across the glacier. I'm not sure, but it might be Old Pierre at rear.
Retracing our steps we get back to the ridge, and on tired legs head back up the 1907m peak. Time was starting to get on by now and provided better lighting for photos, but we still had a long way to go and the one place we didn't want to be in the dark was heading down through the steep forest back into the valley where we had started. Ramsay was really feeling the effects of such a long day but he plodded slowly onwards giving Chris M. and I plenty of time to take even more pictures. Chris M. who had done Mount Weart a few days before had been concerned about his knee, but it held up fine.
 Meslilloet in good evening light.
Meeting back up with Chris H. we all take a rest, grab some food and continue on.
 Meslilloet and glacier with the Howe Sound Crest Peaks from The Lions to Deeks rear right.
  
1. Meslilloet again.
2. Heading back.
3. Chris M. and his camera with Garibaldi.
 An idea of the ridge route: we went around the peak on the left, over the peaks at centre and then up to the summit at rear on it's right side.
I finally put my camera away and we head off the ridge and down towards the lake. We gain a 100m in elevation above the lake then drop down again and work around the small peak to the east before rising up to the pass. We spooked a large black bear in this area. By now the sun was setting and in the waning light we used a combination of GPS, occasional flagging, rememberence and luck to get us back over to where we have to drop steeply down to the valley and the road.
By the time we had side-hilled over to where the steep descent began night had fallen and we got back into the thick, bushy forest. Headlamps were on by now and it was slow going heading downwards. Chris M. still manage to find a flag here and there, so we new we were mostly on track.
Problem was, in dense forest headlamps don't shine very far. We got into steeper terrain, but could hear a creek. With some good route finding skills from both Chris's and advice from the rest of us we managed to get to a point above where the creek dropped in cascades and the terrain around it was guess what? Yep, it was real steep. It's easy to laugh about it now, but at the time we're all standing there wondering what to do next. Chris H. being the expert canyoneer he is (hence the name Too Many Canyons) figured we could probably work our way down the waterfalls.
Canyoneering by headlamp? Well, not much choice really so downward we go. Chris goes first and gets past the first section. Some good handholds he reports, but it's pretty slick. Not to mention you get quite wet. The next part went OK and then we are about 15 feet above the last section where we had come up way back in daylight. This is the part where both Chris's went up the creek/waterfall whilst the rest of us used the bush. This time around Chris H. goes down. He yells up to me over the din of rushing water that I can make my way down using a slick old tree trunk situated in the middle of the creek.
This for me was easier than the first part above, so that was good. Chris M., Ramsay and Vlad decided they didn't want to get any more wet so they bushwack across the slope and lowered themsleves down with the good old vegetable belay. We were all happy that was over, and after passing under some cliffing we got back into the open forest and then to the edge of the cutblock.
Down we go with the end in sight and we pop out onto the old road and walk back down to the vehicles 14.5 hours after we left them (as for cumultive elevation, Ramsay is working on figuring it out). A quick change for some of us out of sodden clothes and then it's the long drive back out on the Mamquam FSR to Hwy. 99. I ended up driving Chris M's Xterra all the way back to West Van as he wanted a quick nap which somehow turned into a long one. Problem was, I was fighting the tiredness big time on the Upper Levels Highway and really should have pulled over, but at 1 in the morning I really wanted to sleep in a bed.
All in all, it was a awesome day out with a great bunch of guys. Everyone contributed to the route taken and things went really well. Time wise, we should have started earlier and points can be made about turn around times and probably a few others things too. In the end though, it all worked out (though we all wish that five of us summitted) and it makes for some good memories. Incidently, the bugs were terrible above the waterfall/creek area, but mostly disappeared once we gained the ridge. The next day I have plenty of itchy bites and numerous scratches from the bush.
The other guys should add some more pictures and hopefully fill in any gaps.
 Near actual map of route. |
Edited by - simonc on 07/06/2009 12:38 PM
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463 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 12:17 AM
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Tremendous accomplishment, Simon. Probable trip of the year material here. Didn't think I'd see a daytrip to Meslilloet show up on these boards.
A hearty congrats to all involved. |
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| gyppo
Intermediate Member
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Edmonton, AB
Canada
745 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 12:26 AM
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Good god, the daytrips are getting insane here!!
What you guys could do in 2 or 3 days... !!!!
B |
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Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3838 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 01:14 AM
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All I can say is, "Amazing, just simply amazing".
I would most likely had parked my butt above the falls and waited all night since it was so warm this weekend.
Hats off to all you guys. That will be an epic trip to remember.  |
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Fast hikin, carrot chompin, always grinnin, gear scatterin recipient of the Theta Lake manouver
Burnaby
2039 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 06:59 AM
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I was so beaten up, I'm pretty sure it was worth it though. 
 Looking back at Simon and Meslilloet.
 Summit shot of Vlad, Ramsey & Simon.
 Simon, with a semi-frozen tarn reflection.
Great group. Glad to finally knock this one off. The scramble around to the left on the final summit block is really just a walk if you stay on route.
Even after napping (thanks Simon!), I still felt dangerous driving the rest of the way home. Who came up with this crazy plan anyway.   |
Edited by - burnabyhiker on 07/06/2009 08:11 AM |
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Ladner
Canada
628 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 07:59 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by burnabyhiker
I was so beaten up
I ran into Chris on Sunday and he didn't look that beaten up.
Nice job guys  |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4646 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 08:09 AM
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Couldn't of pulled it off with a better group . Stellar accomplishment gang  |
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 08:19 AM
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| Good read Simon! Classic trip! You guys are competent! |
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Maple Ridge, BC
Canada
739 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 08:49 AM
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That's a great trip report of an epic trip. And you tell it so well.
Well done, guys! |
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Van, bc
Canada
636 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 09:15 AM
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hmmmmmmmm.... past midnight........ is this the first ever overnighter for simonc???
awesome work guys . i can only assume the trail is blazed and cleared for the rest of us!! what's next? |
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Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
3996 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 09:15 AM
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In posting so many shots of where we'd been I forgot to put up a close up shot of Five Finger Spires.
Chris, you took some great shots.
quote:
I ran into Chris on Sunday and he didn't look that beaten up.
That's because he had a nice nap most of the drive home. I think most of us felt pretty good the next day. Vlad hiked up Elk whilst I went to work and Ramsay sounded quite chipper on the phone.
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Simpson quoting tree hunter and canyon rapping rockhound who longs for the return of his trapped Toyota
Salt Lake City, UT
USA
2268 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 10:04 AM
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Nice shots, guys! FWIW, I'm not a big fan of "in the dark" canyoneering. Looking back at it, I probably should have remembered your handline, Simon, and had people do the downclimb backed up off a muenter (I had enough webbing with me to construct an anchor and a harness). It would have added a level of safety to that section, but we were all tired and thankfully got through that section unscathed.
The terrain up there is pretty special really, but does require good route-finding skills. The time on top of "Meslilloet NE1" was really great, but I kind of wish I had continued with the rest of you, summit burnout aside (felt fine yesterday, so obviously there was lots left in the tank). Definitely a great effort for the four of you in grabbing an unusual one. |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 10:17 AM
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| Meslilloet's a worthy destination, for sure. Looks like you want some light early on to navigate the steep bush, so have to avoid the alpine-start by headlamp? |
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Powell River, BC
Canada
10 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 10:34 AM
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| Amazing work and great pictures. |
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Sunnyvale Trailer Park
Canada
1087 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 10:55 AM
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A great dayhike accomplishment, by anyone's standards. You've got some really nice pics the last couple reports, Chris as always...
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Vancouver, B.C.
Canada
957 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 10:57 AM
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| That's a good one for sure. Congratulations guys. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1126 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 11:36 AM
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Thanks for the report Simon, nicely done.
It isn't unusual for me to feel like I've bitten off more than I can chew when I go on a trip with Simon, but this one went beyond an amusing tale of exhaustion. I slowed down the group on the way back, and as a result we had to negotiate difficult terrain in the dark, which slowed us down considerably more. I was a liability and shouldn't've been on the trip, or at least I should've recognized that staying at the subpeak with TMC would have been prudent. The exhaustion came on quickly on the way back.
I need to make a better effort to understand my limits and recognize when they're approaching. I won't be a burden on another party. I won't participate in another epic uphill-both-ways daytrip until I've turned my exercise regime around. My sincere apologies to the rest of the group, and thanks for your patience.
By the way, Meslilooet would make a fabulous two day trip by this route, with a nice camp by a beautiful lake. Probably preferably in a month or two when the blackflies have calmed down.
Simon, the stats don't describe the trip. From the basemap I estimate 17km round trip and 1600m cumulative elevation gain. A more careful counting of contours would maybe add a couple hundred metres cumulative. |
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Moxie scambler of pinnacles, tireless leader haunting the CDN/US border climbing everything in sight
Burnaby, BC
Canada
1272 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 11:40 AM
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Awesome trip and great trip report, guys. I see Mesliloet from the top of Burnaby Mountain a couple of times a week and long to do it. I'm envious! Well done, and thanks for sharing!
PB |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 11:44 AM
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| Props! |
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| LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2506 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 11:58 AM
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| Love the good old fashioned deathmarch. The vege belay is such a nice flourish to round it all off |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
2659 Posts |
Posted - 07/06/2009 : 12:32 PM
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| Well done guys! |
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Topic |
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Meslilloet Mtn. In One Long Day. Jul 04 09
