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Vancouver, B.C.
Canada
4 Posts |
Posted - 06/13/2009 : 1:29 PM
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Hello all, I'm looking for any beta, preferably current, on the approach to the buttress both direct (lower) and via the Bypass glacier. It seems as if, especially earlier summer (ie now'ish) beginning the route at the lower buttress mitigates ones exposure time to the obvious objective hazards. Any advice? Has anyone been up the buttress this season?
Much appreciated! |
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Agassiz, B.C
Canada
530 Posts |
Posted - 06/14/2009 : 08:09 AM
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That Approach tends to be very dangerous this time of year. Although it might be better now than if you wait a few more weeks. I would say you should wait for the glaciers to slide and just walk accross or beneath those slabs in approach shoes, it worked well for me. This time of year the pocket glacier may not be broken up but the SE glacier is hell/death.
Look at this vid an aquaintance took last year at this time fo year:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fnhrxa5E9E&feature=related
This is a pretty common occurence up there right now.
If you are really hell bent on climbing Slesse soon go do the North Rib. Its a safer approach this time of year and looks like an incredible line... I might even like to join you :) |
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Agassiz, B.C
Canada
530 Posts |
Posted - 06/19/2009 : 08:27 AM
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| As of a few days ago the pocket glacier is only present at the top of the cirque..... give it a couple weeks and it may be good to go. |
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Hope, BC
Canada
7100 Posts |
Posted - 06/19/2009 : 08:31 AM
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That area is deadly with movement and falling ice, I'd be waiting longer than a couple weeks even more like over a month. In fact I wouldn't dare going in there with any ice. BUT that's just me.
Sorry I don't have any current info, but in general it is the same thing every year. |
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Agassiz, B.C
Canada
530 Posts |
Posted - 06/21/2009 : 6:57 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by AcesHigh
That area is deadly with movement and falling ice, I'd be waiting longer than a couple weeks even more like over a month. In fact I wouldn't dare going in there with any ice. BUT that's just me.
Sorry I don't have any current info, but in general it is the same thing every year.
With the low snow and warm spring its clearing up really fast in there... I might be in the area next w/e.. will post conditions then. |
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Topic |
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Slesse - NE Buttress approach
