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Langley, BC
Canada
1505 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 12:35 AM
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I returned last weekend from spending eight days paddling in the Broken Group in Barkley Sound on the west coast of Vancouver Island. I went with a couple of paddling pals (including a fellow from Oregon that my kids and I met a couple of years ago in the Deer Group Islands).
We spent our first and last nights on Hand Island (the island closest to our put-in location at Toquart Bay) and the five in-between nights on Clarke Island, one of the outer islands. Clarke Island is absolutely beautiful and we found ourselves with the entire island to ourselves for 3 days (on the other days, we had the very pleasurable company of a group from Vancouver, Whistler, and Norway). For two days of our trip, there were only 4 people (including us) in the entire park -- for the rest of the time, we only ran into about a half dozen other people (excluding the group that we shared campsites with). Definitely not nearly as many people using the park this time of year -- but then the weather is a lot more unpredictable too.
This was my second visit to the Brokens and it won't be my last -- this archipelago is a fantastic place to paddle, although I wouldn't recommend it for beginner paddlers -- especially in the non-summer months when weather conditions can be rather brutal at times. We had a mixed bag of sunny weather, rainy weather, and lots and lots of wind. For two days we experienced 45 knot winds (that's a lot) so we couldn't paddle far from camp on those days. Conditions on the outer islands were pretty gnarly at times and we found ourselves on more than one occasion paddling in 2-3 meter swell with wind waves added on top just to make it even more interesting. We also had some exceptionally nice weather for this time of year and enjoyed a couple of warm, sunny paddling days.
There's no other place like the west coast of British Columbia and we're so incredibly lucky to have it in our backyard.
1. Packing 8 days of gear into our kayaks.
2. Camping on the beach on Hand Island.
3. Heading to the outer islands on an overcast day.
1. 2. 3.
4. On the beach of an islet in the Tiny Group.
5. Also in the Tiny Group.
6. Heading back to our campsite in bumpy conditions.
4. 5. 6.
7. Sunset on Clarke island.
8. Morning view from our kitchen on Clarke.
9. Sea sacs on Benson Island.
7. 8. 9.
10. Waves on the shoreline of Benson Island.
11. A westcoast postcard view.
12. Twisted.
10. 11. 12.
13. Moon Snail egg casing.
14. Mmmm... fresh crab.
15. Oyster catcher near Hand Island.
13. 14. 15.
16. Mink on the beach.
17. Sea foam.
18. Batstars. Lots of them.
16. 17. 18.
More photos from this trip are on my website:
http://www.westcoastpaddler.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=2994
Dan
http://www.westcoastpaddler.com
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Edited by - WestCoastPaddler on 05/21/2009 12:45 AM
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 Fowl photographin, animal lovin, thread trollin, dry bag humpin, canoe canoodler
Vancouver, BC
Canada
4036 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 02:04 AM
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I really like #17 Dan, an artistic capture that many could make a unique interpretation of all their own.
I can well imagine at this time of year that you would encounter some big water but they also say this is the time for whales. I think you have the right idea though, having paddled the Broken Group once already myself, to do it again I would prefer to change the time of year my visits land on to keep the experience feeling new, which is what you seem to be doing too. What a treat to get these archipelagos all to yourself given their popularity, every year that passes it seems their reputation both at home and abroad grow exponentially.
A paddling jewel on our west coast to be certain, thankfully they seem to be well managed. Guess you didn't have to pay any fees in mid May either  |
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Chilliwack, BC
755 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 06:48 AM
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Hey Dan -
Great report. I'm new to the kayak and hope to do the Broken group next summer. Your pics are inspiring!
Did you plan a meal around the crab catch? Was it difficult? (was it legal ??? - Conrad Black wants to know . . . off the record. You are free to forget this conversation took place)
- G |
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 Best grilled cheese maker ever
Whitehorse, YUKON
Canada
2142 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 08:33 AM
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| Nice! |
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Too close to the city, BC
Canada
783 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 08:39 AM
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| Love the pics! Fantastic TR, thank you. |
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Langley, BC
Canada
1505 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 09:26 AM
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Monster -- no whale sightings this time. Chances of seeing whales in the Brokens increase as you head to the outside of the outer islands -- unfortunatley, stormy and rough conditions on this trip minimized our time on the outside.
Definitely fewer people this time of year, but you do take a big chance with the weather -- we could easily have had an entire trip of days unsuitable for paddling. I would love to take a trip to the Brokens during the first three months of the year but chances of the weather cooperating would be quite slim -- and from looking at some of the storm damage and landscapes that completely changed from last summer, it's very obvious that it can get brutally nasty out there in the winter.
Even in May, we still had to pay the camping fees ($10 per night per person).
Baddoc48 -- I never plan meals around a catch and always consider fresh seafood a bonus. I have a folding crab trap (yes, crabbing is legal) that I stow on the rear deck of my kayak -- canned cat food makes good bait. Bottom fish (ling cod, etc) are off limits within the park but you can legally catch bottom fish just outside the boundaries of the park. Oysters were closed this time around or we'd have had a huge feast as oysters were (and usually are) plentiful in the Brokens. Last summer when we were in the Brokens, on two separate occasions, power boat fishermen gave us freshly caught salmon as we paddled past them. I always take butter and garlic with me.
Dan
http://www.westcoastpaddler.com
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925 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 3:46 PM
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Great stuff! I can't wait to go back.
I'm heading there at the end of June. Did you happen to pass by the Willis and Dodd campgrounds? A couple of years ago the beach disappeared and the camp sites got pretty crowded. We're heading there for three nights only paddling from Toquart. We can make it to Clarke in a day (in fairly good conditions), but I was thinking of staying closer in this time. We're heading to Meares Island right after our quick trip into the Broken Group. |
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ass wigglin, cheese lovin, 4x4 drivin, apostrophe hatin, hiking chick who loves camping on snow
spaceship..
Canada
7209 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 3:47 PM
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| Some gorgeous shots there Dan, looks like you enjoyed a lovely trip. |
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Hope, BC
Canada
7093 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 4:11 PM
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Wow this was a nice report Dan, awesome photos, that area is amazing.
And to have fresh crab like that is icing on the cake.
How many crab can that trap catch at a time?
After reading the report on your website which was nice too, I read about the deer on those islands, I thought the islands were very small, guess not.
It would be great if you could post on your site or ct or both the route on a map. |
Edited by - AcesHigh on 05/21/2009 4:17 PM |
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Langley, BC
Canada
1505 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 4:49 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by SuperTwink
Great stuff! I can't wait to go back.
I'm heading there at the end of June. Did you happen to pass by the Willis and Dodd campgrounds? A couple of years ago the beach disappeared and the camp sites got pretty crowded. We're heading there for three nights only paddling from Toquart. We can make it to Clarke in a day (in fairly good conditions), but I was thinking of staying closer in this time. We're heading to Meares Island right after our quick trip into the Broken Group.
We stopped on both islands. Bear in mind that Willis and Dodd are both campsites that outfitters (tour guides) use and are generally pretty busy. I've stayed on Gibraltar before and would consider that before Dodd or Willis (and it's a nicer campsite imho).
It might be helpful to know also that Benson Island is closed to camping this year -- you can visit for day trips, just no camping (not clear on the reason as we heard a couple of different stories). It's probably going to make Clarke a bit more crowded though.
Ace, I've caught up to 5 crabs at once in my collapsible trap before but then again, sometimes I don't catch any.
There are deer on most of the islands -- we also saw wolf tracks on Clarke and Benson this trip (more of a problem for the deer than us).
Dan
http://www.westcoastpaddler.com
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Burns Lake, BC
210 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 6:04 PM
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Thanks Dan! Can't wait to get out on the coast!
Canoeheadted. |
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Utah's canyon trekking,deck chair packing desert explorer who dreams of visiting Canada someday
3988 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 7:30 PM
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Very pretty!! So lucky to have it right there ready every and any day for you. Amazing stuff! I am going kayaking in October, down below
Lake Meade, Nevada. Hot springs, trout, and black lava canyons.
Not nearly as scenic as your outing, though. But, a great beginner
trek. When I was out to sea, I always felt that detachment and freedom
from the shore dwellers hehe |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13440 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 8:28 PM
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A neat adventure on the waters, a great way to enjoy nature close up and relax one's nerves away from the hot centre of the city. Some really neat classic shots. Thanks for sharing.
K |
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925 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 9:08 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by WestCoastPaddler
quote:
Originally posted by SuperTwink
Great stuff! I can't wait to go back.
I'm heading there at the end of June. Did you happen to pass by the Willis and Dodd campgrounds? A couple of years ago the beach disappeared and the camp sites got pretty crowded. We're heading there for three nights only paddling from Toquart. We can make it to Clarke in a day (in fairly good conditions), but I was thinking of staying closer in this time. We're heading to Meares Island right after our quick trip into the Broken Group.
We stopped on both islands. Bear in mind that Willis and Dodd are both campsites that outfitters (tour guides) use and are generally pretty busy. I've stayed on Gibraltar before and would consider that before Dodd or Willis (and it's a nicer campsite imho).
It might be helpful to know also that Benson Island is closed to camping this year -- you can visit for day trips, just no camping (not clear on the reason as we heard a couple of different stories). It's probably going to make Clarke a bit more crowded though.
Ace, I've caught up to 5 crabs at once in my collapsible trap before but then again, sometimes I don't catch any.
There are deer on most of the islands -- we also saw wolf tracks on Clarke and Benson this trip (more of a problem for the deer than us).
Dan
http://www.westcoastpaddler.com
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Thanks Dan. I have never stayed on Willis or Dodd, and several times on Gibralter. I did not know that about Benson. That's too bad. Clarke was very crowded last time I was there. I think I will stick to Hand and Gibralter this time around. We are going with some newbies who have limited experience and I am not comfotable taking them to the outer Islands. We're saving the adventure for Meares. |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4646 Posts |
Posted - 05/21/2009 : 9:32 PM
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Just got a chance to read this now. What a trip! Thanks for posting Dan - your T/R's are always a pleasure to read 
Amazing pics as usual  |
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Chwk, BC
Canada
457 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2009 : 2:01 PM
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| Your pics are just beautiful! |
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Coffee swillin', wine lovin', Owl fearin' Andie McDowell stunt double, who sports retro gear
Vancouver, BC
5464 Posts |
Posted - 05/22/2009 : 2:13 PM
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| Love the pics!! |
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Paddling in the Broken Group Islands - May 2009
