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Surrey
14 Posts |
Posted - 09/07/2008 : 3:49 PM
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Trip report is for the North Coast Trail and Cape Scott
August 17-23, 2008
Traveling east to west
Topics covered
1.Notes about the trail
2.Comparison to the West Coast Trail
3.Trip Report
4.Conclusions
5.Pictures
(1) Notes about the trail
When using this report to plan your trip, keep the following in mind:
1. The weather was very good, with minimal rain
2. I am a 24 year old fit hiker
3. I did this trip solo carrying a heavy pack
4. Times listed do not include rest/lunch times.
5. There are no guaranteed exit points. If you get hurt, you may be a few days away from extraction.
6. Cell phones do not work once you leave Port Hardy.
7. I would suggest bringing a VHF radio as a safety device. There is a ranger station being built at Cape Sutil, but I do not know when it will be operational. Your closest help is the ranger station at Nels Bight or the lighthouse at Cape Scott. Coast Guard or a passing boat could assist you
8. There is bear sign EVERYWHERE. I did encounter a bear. Other hikers said that, to some extent, the bears were not easily scared away with sound. Be safe and the bears mind their own business and never seemed to be a problem or concerned with hikers
(2)Comparing the North Coast Trail (NCT) to the West Coast Trail (WCT)
I completed the West Coast Trail last year and will say that the NCT is more of a wilderness trail which has fewer hiker aids (ie: ladders). The NCT is not busy and there is no booking system…yet.
The NCT has some muddy sections but were not as large and deep as the WCT.
The scenery of the WCT is better until you consider Cape Scott as well. Cape Scott was tremendously beautiful and made the NCT my choice over the WCT.
In general, I thought that this was a spectacular trail and I was impressed by how well it was built and the condition it was in, especially being the first year. Highly recommended.
(3) Trip Report
Day 1, Aug 17, Shushartie Bay to Nahwitti River Camp – 10-12km, 4.5 hours
3-1/2 hours to Skinner and 1 hour to Nahwitti
What a beautiful day to hike on; a little mist, but otherwise clear skies. Catala Charters dropped me off at 1:00pm at Shushartie Bay. There was no dock, but Jim took me right to shore in a dingey boat. There are about three tent pads here for camping, but NO WATER. If you plan to camp here, there is a water source relatively close if you travel northwest along the shore from the trail head. You can also hike to the estuary to get water. Caution: I did not camp here and did not see either water source and am just giving these two water sources on the words of other people.
This was almost completely inland hiking full of variety. From the trailhead you immediately climb 200+ meters. Strenuous with lots of up and down. Ropes are there to assist you. The trail is narrow and rugged. You will go over logs, roots stumps and squeeze through trees. There are boggy sections and lots of boardwalk. This section is of moderate difficulty if you take your time and are not in a rush to make it to camp like I was.
It took 3.4 hours to Skinner Creek. I did not look at the Skinner Creek campsite but the water source is very close and good quality. Skinner to Nahwitti can be done inland or on the beach. I chose the beach. I encountered a BIG bear on the beach right before Nahwitti camp and waited an hour for it to pass. I had bear spray and a banger, but thought to avoid a confrontation altogether. Unfortunately the bear walked into the bush 30 meters from where my camp was. I was absolutely exhausted, and despite a bear close by, I passed out at 8:00pm and slept peacefully.
Nahwitti camp is just in the bushes off the beach (watch for sign and floats in trees). Three tent pads with more space on the ground, outhouse and cache. Nice site. NO WATER immediately at camp. You must travel 15 minutes INLAND to the cable car for water. Water from the river close to the ocean will be salty.
Day 2, Aug 18, Nahwitti River to Shuttleworth Bught –about 13.6km, 5 hours
2-1/4 hours to Sutil and 3 hours to Shuttleworth
Awoke to an absolutely beautiful morning. It appeared that the same bear was back on the beach, but farther down the beach and of no concern.
I pumped water at the cable car after crossing. The trail from the cable car is confusing. GO RIGHT from the cable car (there was a sign). I lost the trail once getting out of the estuary, but did rejoin the trail after a little bushwhacking. Other hikers told me that they got confused in this section too, but I feel that there is little concern because the trail is easy to spot when you find it. There is flagging tape all over, but still lost my way briefly.
From Nahwitti to Sutil the trail is inland and is much like the previous day. The trail is flat, and in my opinion of moderate difficulty (compared to the map with says very difficult). It’s moderate until you get close to Sutil. Close to Sutil it is very challenging because you go up and down headlands with very steep climbs and descents. Ropes are there to assist you. There are 270 steps that you go down as you approach Cape Sutil; feel good knowing you do not have to go up those.
Cape Sutil is very picturesque. Spend some time here. Trickle of water on the beach on east side of Sutil (look for flagging tape in trees). Water is apparently available on Sutil on the east side close to the point, but cannot confirm. There is a ranger station being built here, but is not yet operational. I crossed paths with 5 hikes.
Sutil to Shuttleworth had very light misty rain. More steep ups and downs over headlands. Lots of beach hiking with inland sections – take beach when you can. There are times when you may not be able to do the beach sections when the tide is in. Beach and inland route not noted on map. Just look for floats.
Shuttleworth is big and beautiful white sand beach. The camp is large with many (8?) tent pads and beach camping. Cache and outhouse provided. Water is right at camp, but you need to go a little upstream because it is tidal.
Day 3, Aug 19, Shuttleworth Bught to Laura Creek – 11.8km, 4.5 hours
(time including 45 minute break)
Overcast skies and brief light rain, despite warnings of massive storm blowing in. Inland sections were short and easy. Hiking was mostly beach. Beaches were almost all stones, rocks and pebbles with the brief section of level ground. Tough on the knees and body.
Lots of people encountered two sets of bears near Laura Creek, but I saw none. 3-5 tent pads here and full facilities. There is an old boat and cooler on the beach. Sadly, the cooler is empty. The creek is your water source but the camp is 200-400 meters further down the beach. The water here clogs filters quickly requiring frequent cleaning.
The rain came at 1:00pm, but I was already set-up and avoided it. Rained all night.
Day 4, Aug 20, Laura Creek to Nels Bight – about 13km, 3 hours
2 hours to Nissen Bight, 1 hour to Nels Bight
Rain stopped in the morning but started again when I got moving. Trail to Nissen was easy inland with minor ups and downs. Some mud pits were on trail but not bad at all. Rained heavy for about 2 hours. I had lunch and waited at Nissen for rain to pass, which it did.
Nissen is a beautiful white sand beach and blue water. Wales come 50 feet off shore. Water is far at the east end of the beach over the rocks.
With the rain stopped I moved onto Nels Bight. The trail is wide, flat and like a highway compared to everything before. If you have big legs you can do 1km/10minutes.
The open meadow where the trail splits to Hansen lagoon is striking and worth exploring a little. Hansen lagoon did not seem to interesting according to other hikers. Remember that Hansen is tidal.
Nels Bight is just as beautiful as Nissen, but no whales here. The water looks very inviting. If you like peace and quite, Nissen is less busy. Nels only had 3 tens my first night there.
Watch the tides if you beach camp on Nels because I had to move my tent for fear of the tide, which came 3 feet away from where my tent was. Camp close to bush and have logs in front of you as barriers. Had a 3.8m tide that day.
There is a ranger station here. The water is near the ranger station and is plentiful. You will need to clean your water pump often when filtering.
Day 5, Aug 21, Day trip to Lighthouse and surrounding area
Rest day - 13.2km return to Nels.
Awoke to clear blue skies.
I decided to keep camp at Nels and explore with a light day pack. Spent six hours hiking to lighthouse and back just taking my time. The lighthouse is not that exciting but worth a look because of the scenery. Say hello to the lighthouse keeper. They may offer you water if you need it.
Guise and Experiment Bight are beautiful beaches and are certainly worth camping on, especially because no one is there. Water can be found on Guise and due to the recent rain, there were many little streams on the beaches.
Youc an walk the entire Experiment bight section on the beach if the tides are with you. You can make a complete round trip. You may need to climb and scramble rocks as I did because of an incoming tide, but should not be a problem if you are before/after ½ tide. The pocket beaches in this area are something to see. Camping could be possible on the beaches but it would need to be in the bushes because the tide comes in all the way. The “sand box” between Guise and Experiment is cool.
The sun was shining all day and I decided to go for a swim. The water was cold and refreshing.
Day 6, Aug 22, Nels Bight to SanJosef Bay – about 18.5km, 4-3/4 hours
The trail is wide and like a highway. Very easy hiking. Did not see the campsite at Fisherman River. The campsite at Eric Lake is very cool looking with all the board walks. I was told that the bugs are very bad here.
SanJosef is quite popular and nice with full facilities. The water is on the second beach and must be accessed inland if the tide is in (inland - about 20-30 minutes with some steep sections). The sea caves and sea stacks are certainly worth exploring.
Day 7, Aug 23, SanJosef Bay to West Trail Head (exit)
Packed up and made it to the West trail head in about 1 hour (2.5km). Had rain, but no concern at all.
There is a newly erected shelter at the trail head which is to become a permanent ranger station. Al picked up many of us and took us to the pub in Holberg for a much deserved meal and drinks.
(4) Conclusions
I have much respect for the people who have created this trail and those who will continue to maintain it. The NCT is a challenge that can be conquered by anyone with a strong mind. I suggest doing this trail as I did from east to west allowing you to be rewarded with the beauty of Cape Scott which was the highlight of my trip. This trail is highly recommended and I will be back again. An amazing experience.
(5.) Pictures
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Edited by - b48pb on 09/15/2008 07:54 AM
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The desert, B.C.
Canada
435 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 11:57 AM
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Excellent trip report ! I've been looking forward to a detailed report...Thanks.
The pictures are beautiful, and it sound to be a very worthwile backpacking tour. |
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1107 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 12:01 PM
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Thanks for this!
Question: what is that white thing with the red cape on it? |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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 Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 12:12 PM
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| Great report and beautiful photos :) |
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Port Hardy, B.C.
Canada
40 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 2:57 PM
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| Hi Bryson, thanks for taking the time to share your experience. It will be an great assist to others. Cheers Al H |
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Surrey
14 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 4:20 PM
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| The white thing was a float that someone made into a face with cape/hat. It gave me a laugh when I passed by and thought it worthy of a picture. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
718 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 5:40 PM
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This is an excellent trip report. Thanks for taking time. I had to bail on a hike to Hesquiat this summer caused by a working schedule conflict but I always kept the Cape Scott / North Coast trail on a back burner. Hiking solo is not my thing anymore. You provide us with valuable information as the path is fairly new to the hiking world we all share via this website.
Hats off to you b48pb!
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Edited by - Tatonka on 09/08/2008 5:50 PM |
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Poco, BC
Canada
51 Posts |
Posted - 09/08/2008 : 6:01 PM
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| Another trail on my gotta do list. Thanks for the detailed info. |
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968 Posts |
Posted - 09/11/2008 : 06:29 AM
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That's a really good introductory report to this new trail. Thanks for using the picture details fields so I know what I'm looking at.
Just curious at the San Josef end of things. When my wife and I did the trail to Cape Scott about ten years ago we stayed overnight at the TH before getting underway. We met a guy there (ex-logger) who'd bought up the property there and was getting started on a sort of recreational gateway. It was some half-assed scheme. He'd got a big old logging building that I think was part mess hall and part machine shop. He gave us a tour and expounded his plans to develop it - name of Doug DesJarlais. I've still got his business card he gave me. We stayed in a shack and set up our tent inside so it wouldn't be wet when we packed up in the morning. (Pissed rain all day before we left.) I was wondering if you ran into him or if he's still around. I think he was on some kind of disability insurance from a logging accident.
I remember the pub food and beer in Holberg when we got back was awesome. Great fish! |
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Surrey
14 Posts |
Posted - 09/11/2008 : 11:01 AM
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I don't know about any buildings near SanJosef. I did stay at SanJosef and explore but did not poke around the West TH at all.
Never ran into any ex-logger like that. However, there is actually a private "resort" that has been built near the Nahwitti River. I did not see it, but the other people I ran into on the trail did see it in person. The resort is not open and a little dilapidated in condition. Not sure what is going to happen to it, but it exists.
Yes, the fish and chips at the Holberg pub are excellent Three BIG pieces of fish.
quote:
Originally posted by Stoked
That's a really good introductory report to this new trail. Thanks for using the picture details fields so I know what I'm looking at.
Just curious at the San Josef end of things. When my wife and I did the trail to Cape Scott about ten years ago we stayed overnight at the TH before getting underway. We met a guy there (ex-logger) who'd bought up the property there and was getting started on a sort of recreational gateway. It was some half-assed scheme. He'd got a big old logging building that I think was part mess hall and part machine shop. He gave us a tour and expounded his plans to develop it - name of Doug DesJarlais. I've still got his business card he gave me. We stayed in a shack and set up our tent inside so it wouldn't be wet when we packed up in the morning. (Pissed rain all day before we left.) I was wondering if you ran into him or if he's still around. I think he was on some kind of disability insurance from a logging accident.
I remember the pub food and beer in Holberg when we got back was awesome. Great fish!
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Edited by - b48pb on 09/11/2008 11:03 AM |
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Kamloops, BC
Canada
171 Posts |
Posted - 09/11/2008 : 11:16 AM
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| Great TR.... I thoroughly enjoyed my trip to Cape Scott last year, and want to go back and tackle this trail... |
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1107 Posts |
Posted - 09/11/2008 : 12:53 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by b48pb
The white thing was a float that someone made into a face with cape/hat. It gave me a laugh when I passed by and thought it worthy of a picture.
That's hilarious. It looked like a lost white Poodle at first.... |
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Crofton by the sea, BC
Canada
57 Posts |
Posted - 10/30/2008 : 11:48 AM
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Hey Bryson exellent trip report man. The detail surpasses any i've seen in any trip report i've read so far on this site. I hiked the WCT this summer for the second year in a row, my daughter and i this summer and my son, my best bud and his son last summer(2007) and totally loved both trips.Our hike this summer was from Aug.16-23 and you'll be pleased to know that on the night of the 19th you were not the only one huddled in your tent against the rain. That storm hit us too on our way to Dare Beach and did'nt let up until we reached Tsusiat Point the next day. What a storm. My buddy and i are planning on hiking the NCT/Cape Scott Trail next summer(2009) with or without kids(teens) and after having read your trip report i'm already stoked to go. Can't wait to get there. We will definately be using your trip report as a reference when planning our own trip. I've had several questions about the trail i've had trouble finding answers to, because the NCT is new and not alot of trip reports or info on it out there yet, but you've answered several of them for me in your report, so thanks for that and thanks again for the great report.......Mark
Oh yeah, great photos too. |
Edited by - keehabay on 10/30/2008 11:58 AM |
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Maple Ridge, BC
Canada
154 Posts |
Posted - 10/30/2008 : 12:50 PM
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great Tr & photos
one more place to add to my "to visit' list |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13594 Posts |
Posted - 10/30/2008 : 7:09 PM
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Very nice, b48pb. A great detailed report (which I only have partially read), and some interesting shots. I am particularly fascinated by the rock pillars jutting above the sand and which have some brush or trees on their tops. This kinds of remind me of the area off the NW. tip of the Queen Charlottes when I was part of an EPA survey back there in 1977.
K |
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Powell River, bc
Canada
2610 Posts |
Posted - 10/30/2008 : 8:26 PM
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   !!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Night owl posting,Subie driving, backpacking Dad who is perpetually trying to catch up to his kids on the trail.
Vancouver, BC
Canada
3064 Posts |
Posted - 10/30/2008 : 11:33 PM
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| An excellent report: thanks for taking the time to create such a detailed guide. |
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Port Coquitlam, BC
Canada
8 Posts |
Posted - 12/02/2008 : 11:48 PM
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Reply to "Stoked": Doug Desjarlais is indeed still there.
Dec 2006 we came back from the Cape Scott route to our truck, eager to be on our way to delicious beers n pub food, only to be thwarted by a massive fallen tree in the middle of the road just passed the turnoff for his property. Storms had been real bad that year.
We decided to see if anyone dwelt up the road towards San Josef Bay, and of course we found Doug. A kindly old man, of the 60's hippie type from Kits area we learned, he was willing to cut the tree up for us, but not until the following morning. So we camped in the same old shack you probably did, he brought us coffee and some really shabby dried up weed, looked more like grinded up pine needles, it was generous of him though.
After we got out of that pickle, me and one friend came back to Cape Scott after christmas with a new group of friends, and stayed with Doug again after the long drive into the night to get up there, he remembered us and was pleasant to visit with before heading out to Nels Bight the next morning.
I remember he had intense pictures on his wall of a cougar that had come right up to his cabin earlier that year, no more than a few feet from the door. That man has some stories, if you get a chance to go to Cape Scott again, its worth sayin hello to Doug and hearing about the area. |
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671 Posts |
Posted - 12/03/2008 : 09:23 AM
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awesome trip TR, thanks for the info
I was up to Cape Scott last year and it was great, I was with a friend who lives in Port Mcneil and he was mentioning that NCT was being built and wanted to do it when it was finished. I also had some pub food from Holberg, was great
thanks for sharing |
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North Coast Trail and Cape Scott
