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Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/01/2008 : 11:17 PM
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We climbed Mount Edith from the valley between Mount Edith and Mount Louis to a summit, taking about 10 to 11 pitches, and traversed over the ridge to the south summit with a huge rock. We then hiked down and back to the valley. My camera did not quite work and some photos are quite blurred.
Mount Edith from the hiking trail:
 
Mount Louis
This is the side of Mount Edith from the valley between Edith & Louis where we started to climb
Climbing up
 
Mount Louis from a point somewhere on Mount Edith
Sunset from Mount Louis
Sunrise over the mountain top
Somewhere on Mount Edith
 
Anja & Junya climbing
 
A part of the traverse
Anja doing the final climb to the last summit before hiking down
At the summit with the huge rock:
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Edited by - larryl on 09/05/2008 09:15 AM
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 Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 07:58 AM
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| Is the route you climbed Kaphir Strikes Back?? |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 08:13 AM
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The Kafir Strikes Back? I understand that even at 10c, it's underrated and very sustained. It's a Cheesemond FA, if memory serves...
Well done!! |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 12:21 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
The Kafir Strikes Back? I understand that even at 10c, it's underrated and very sustained. It's a Cheesemond FA, if memory serves...
Well done!!
That's not the one I was thinking of then. The one I was thinking of goes at 5.8. What the heck was the name of it though? I will have to check when I get home. |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 12:34 PM
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North Face of North Peak, Greenwood/Boles, 5.8. Was rated 5.7 originally, but uprated thanks to the "old sandbagging" that guys like Greenwood did. (Hey 5.9 was the top then, so...)
Even on the trade route 5.4 we found a TON of loose crap. I thought given the traffic there it would be cleaner, but not so.
What's that other one like? |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 3:05 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
North Face of North Peak, Greenwood/Boles, 5.8. Was rated 5.7 originally, but uprated thanks to the "old sandbagging" that guys like Greenwood did. (Hey 5.9 was the top then, so...)
Even on the trade route 5.4 we found a TON of loose crap. I thought given the traffic there it would be cleaner, but not so.
That's the one I was thinking of. It's pretty safe to assume that older alpine routes are going to be sandbagged to some extent.
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Telkwa
1176 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 3:09 PM
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Wow, looks great Larry. I wish I had been there with you guys. |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 3:19 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb
quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
North Face of North Peak, Greenwood/Boles, 5.8. Was rated 5.7 originally, but uprated thanks to the "old sandbagging" that guys like Greenwood did. (Hey 5.9 was the top then, so...)
Even on the trade route 5.4 we found a TON of loose crap. I thought given the traffic there it would be cleaner, but not so.
That's the one I was thinking of. It's pretty safe to assume that older alpine routes are going to be sandbagged to some extent.
Or alternatively, that modern grades are subject to pernicious inflation. |
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Canmore, AB
Canada
1238 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 3:59 PM
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Nice job Larry!
It's too bad about the camera. It looks like you're all underwater. |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 6:02 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Dru
quote:
Originally posted by time2clmb
quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
North Face of North Peak, Greenwood/Boles, 5.8. Was rated 5.7 originally, but uprated thanks to the "old sandbagging" that guys like Greenwood did. (Hey 5.9 was the top then, so...)
Even on the trade route 5.4 we found a TON of loose crap. I thought given the traffic there it would be cleaner, but not so.
That's the one I was thinking of. It's pretty safe to assume that older alpine routes are going to be sandbagged to some extent.
Or alternatively, that modern grades are subject to pernicious inflation.
Yeah, I would agree with what you said. Been listening to your word power audio tapes again? |
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
271 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 6:46 PM
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The route we did is called "Greenwood Boles at 5.8 " The crux is suppposed to be a 5.8 small roof. For the rest it says if it's harder than 5.6 trend left...well...I think this was true in the old days...as I'm sure I climbed through three 5.8's (plus)and the one I figured the route description refers to wasn't the most challenging one at all...just a simple 5.8 move over a bulge..plenty of holds. Now the roof that Junya and I ended up under felt harder...especially for the leader as placing good pro would be challenging due to the rock. He did find a piton which was great..so trust it he did and on we went. Larry and Reinhard trended more left in a gully to reach the next belay spot.
more later..I have some pictures as well. |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13441 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 8:29 PM
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Larry, a lot of interesting rocky peaks, looks like you are getting around a lot. I find this photo rather an interest in contrasts, looks like a big snowy peak overpowering the landscape.
quote:
Originally posted by larryl
Mount Edith from the hiking trail:
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/02/2008 : 10:51 PM
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Thanks everyone.
Well, all I did was to climb and clean up. And I couldn't even do either one well enough. I still made it in one piece though. Anja can add a lot more.
But the camera sucks for sure. I am still trying to figure what problem is before I roll up to Robie Reid this weekend.
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 10:16 AM
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Further to Anja's remark, the hardest part of the climb, to me at least, was going up a wall with moss and wet with water. I saw both Anja and Reinhard going up in tandem. I didn't think they had a good time at it. So instead, I used layback up the crack between the wall and the side of the mountain. Even though the crack was full of moss, I used footjam and the foothold was surprisingly good. Other than that pitch, the rest was not too difficult.
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Edited by - larryl on 09/03/2008 10:25 AM |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 10:38 AM
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| btw, isn't this your first alpine multipitch Larry? well done! |
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North Vancouver, BC
Canada
271 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 5:24 PM
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you're right larry !...having somone tethered to me with a daisy chain was not fun...won't do that again ! Live and Learn .....
The hardest pitch is pitch 8.. the pitch that has the 5.8 crux ( small roof) at the bottom of it) . Junya is a mid 5.10 climber and he was glad when he finally reached the end of that pitch. very few spots to put in some pro, the handholds are typical rockies loose for the few that I did find a bit left to where junya went up on ( steep slab)...but then I was on top rope..not sure if I would have trusted those shakey holds for a lead and I remember Junya trying it and backing off from that area. Most of it was slabby and steep. There was ( Again) an old piton that had to be trusted and then a good distance before a pro friendly crack. Had he fallen he would have been hurt.
It was still a fun climb and I'd do it again. Route finding is a big thing there. The only reassuring thing was that we kept finding pitons in strategic locations suggesting we were on route. |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 9:43 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Dru
btw, isn't this your first alpine multipitch Larry? well done!
This was the most sustained climb I've done so far, and there will be a lot more to come, such as Fryatt, Edith Cavell, etc. Anja, Ken, Kathie, are you all listening? |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 09/03/2008 : 9:46 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by lofty
The only reassuring thing was that we kept finding pitons in strategic locations suggesting we were on route.
Gotta laugh at that one! I've seen where someone got off route, pounded in a pin to bail, and then the pin "suggests" to the next folks that the route goes that way. |
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Telkwa
1176 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2008 : 07:41 AM
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Larry, Lofty: I'm listening. Let me know when. I am not going to go anywhere next summer except Banff/Jasper and the goal is to climb!
I'm going to head there October long weekend and hope to find something! |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2008 : 08:25 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by johngenx
quote:
Originally posted by lofty
The only reassuring thing was that we kept finding pitons in strategic locations suggesting we were on route.
Gotta laugh at that one! I've seen where someone got off route, pounded in a pin to bail, and then the pin "suggests" to the next folks that the route goes that way.
I don't believe Anja was referring to finding pitons to be indicative of being on the right route generally . She specifically refers to the pitons located at that route on Edith. Obviously, the locations of the pitons would tend to indicate the purpose, i.e. to continue the route or to bail, of the pitons. One does not follow the pitons or for that matters, other protective gears, on any route blindly. This is what route finding is all about.
The locations and the surrounding areas of Edith where the pitons were on that route would show that they were meant to be used as a part of the protection for the purpose of continuing on with the route, otherwise we would not have made it to the summit at all.
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Edited by - larryl on 09/05/2008 4:53 PM |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
1036 Posts |
Posted - 09/04/2008 : 08:26 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by telkwa
Larry, Lofty: I'm listening. Let me know when. I am not going to go anywhere next summer except Banff/Jasper and the goal is to climb!
I'm going to head there October long weekend and hope to find something!
Yes, I am sure you'll find something: snow. Bring skis.
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Climbing Mount Edith, Banff, Alberta - July 2008
