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North Vancouver
262 Posts |
Posted - 08/20/2008 : 9:29 PM
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Flashback to the summer of 1998... I'd hiked overland to the Sphinx hut and whaddya know, there's a group of raggle-tag climbers inside. Spurred on by Hugh Ackroyd (then Senior Ranger for Garibaldi) the dynamic duo of Gord Betenia and Graeme Taylor had just completed the first KFR ascent of the north ridge of the Sphinx. When I asked how it was, Gord stopped what he was doing, looked me straight in the eye and said, "It's excellent."
So from that moment it was placed on my ever-lengthening 'to do' list. I was foiled in my first attempt with Roger Linington (to make a Miz Piggy ascent) but persistence and Coastal mountaineering go hand in hand. Ten years after first dreaming about it...
The objective. The swim across the lake was a bit chilly ;)
Getting close. Easy glacier travel led to our ridge in the sunlight. Photo: Arran Scott
First pitch. Blocky climbing/scrambling.
Arran sports the classic shiteater grin. Sunbleached grannit in the alpine will do that to ya.
Start of the third pitch. Things get really good here.
Stemming the crux. It's a blockbuster, and full value for your old-school 5.8 dollar. Photo: Arran Scott
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480 Posts |
Posted - 08/20/2008 : 9:48 PM
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Beauty  |
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Surrey, BC
Canada
947 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2008 : 08:06 AM
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 bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4646 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2008 : 08:13 AM
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Nice!  |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2008 : 09:13 AM
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| now for the Peter Croft loop! |
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133 Posts |
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North Vancouver
262 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2008 : 11:01 AM
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Sheeeeeit, Macraj, those are some classic photos on your red lobster web page: nylon gaiters, long skinny double camber skis, A-frame tents, Whillans harness, and of course (the piece de resistance), the nuthugger shorts.
Ahhh the eighties. The decade that style forgot. |
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Kimberley, BC
Canada
257 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2008 : 11:24 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by macraj
Yes it is a great climb. You have brought back memories of our 1980 climb on the ridge.
Taken from: http://members.shaw.ca/k.rajala/LobsterJournalPages/Lobsters1980.html
Oh man! That is one awesome collection of trip reports! Classic!
And Mark, nice picts from Sphinx! |
Edited by - matosan on 08/21/2008 11:25 AM |
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 Best grilled cheese maker ever
Whitehorse, YUKON
Canada
2141 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2008 : 11:59 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by matosan
quote:
Originally posted by macraj
Yes it is a great climb. You have brought back memories of our 1980 climb on the ridge.
Taken from: http://members.shaw.ca/k.rajala/LobsterJournalPages/Lobsters1980.html
Oh man! That is one awesome collection of trip reports! Classic!
And Mark, nice picts from Sphinx!
Totally! That Red Lobster site kicks some serious ass, as does Biffybee's TR! |
Edited by - darren on 08/21/2008 12:00 PM |
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Maple Ridge, BC
Canada
489 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2008 : 8:56 PM
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Yea, the blocky climbing/scrambling shot of the 1st pitch brings back memories of that area - the kind of route you can freely zoom-away-on |
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Maple syrup lovin', tree huggin', face paintin' relocated Québécoise who is VERY serious about having fun
Vancouver
Canada
2637 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2008 : 10:45 PM
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This picture looks like a collage. Neat!
Those blocks look pretty cool. Not sure about the swimming though...
macraj, I really enjoyed looking at your website. I've spent a bit of time checking it out this morning and am looking forward to reading some more of your stuff! |
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133 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2008 : 09:28 AM
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| Thank you very much. :-) |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1038 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2008 : 10:07 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by macraj
Yes it is a great climb. You have brought back memories of our 1980 climb on the ridge. This is a picture of my friend Ryan on the summit late in the day looking over toward Garibaldi.
Taken from: http://members.shaw.ca/k.rajala/LobsterJournalPages/Lobsters1980.html
I just spent the last hour reading through this. What an understated collection of trips and photos from your tiger days! Stellar! |
Edited by - threeprime on 08/24/2008 10:11 AM |
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Manitoba's misadventurin' bushwhackin', dog sloggin', dehydratin', beer drinkin' biggie - who's eager to peak bag Mt Currie in a dress
Squamish
5037 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2008 : 10:59 AM
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| Great trip report! Thanks for sharing one for the list. |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2008 : 2:48 PM
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Not sure how I missed this one first time around.
Wicked!! |
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Bellingham, WA
USA
1 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2008 : 9:39 PM
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Hello. I plan to make first U.S.A.! ascent of Sphinx - North Ridge. How far is the swim? Are there sharks?
Or in other words how did you approach? |
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Topic |
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Sphinx North Ridge (Garibaldi Park) Aug 5th, 2008
