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103 Posts |
Posted - 02/28/2008 : 3:19 PM
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| I'm looking for recommended climbs at Red Rocks in the 5.8 to 5.10 range that are long and take in the major peaks with reasonable descents. We going there in a couple of weeks and want to take in some of the scenery. |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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 Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 02/28/2008 : 3:25 PM
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Most of the long climbs don't go to specific peaks; rather, they climb a canyon wall to where the rock quality decreases, or to the ridgeline.
I can personally recommend
Jubilant Song 5.8
Frogland 5.8
Black Orpheus 5.9+
Rainbow Buttress 5.8
Group Therapy 5.8
as being fun and not crowded. Some other highly recommended routes there like Crimson Chyrsalis can be exceedingly busy.
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103 Posts |
Posted - 02/29/2008 : 08:20 AM
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| Thanks Dru. The two guide books I've read do vaguely mention getting to the tops of certain peaks and most of the photo's show the routes ending below the tops. Perhaps there's a hiking guide to the area to be found in Vegas, and we'll check with the locals for more info. We're not going there to peak-bag but it would be interesting to get up a couple of the highest points. |
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Kootenay Bud
2695 Posts |
Posted - 02/29/2008 : 08:29 AM
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| We hiked up Turtle Mountain when we were there. It's a marked hiking trail. Good views of Vegas smog. |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 02/29/2008 : 08:42 AM
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The NE Arete of Bridge Mountain, and the Lady Wilson's Cleavage route on Mt Wilson, go to the top of respective peaks. LWC involves lots of offwidths and chimneys. NE Arete Of Bridge is a multipitch 5.6 with an incredibly involved approach involving reverse canyoning and other shenanigans. It sounds like what you are looking for. I haven't done either one.
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Victoria, BC
Canada
58 Posts |
Posted - 02/29/2008 : 09:08 AM
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The complete Solar Slab (5.7, 9p) will take you to the top of something (Solar Slab summit). A good route to the bottom of Solar Slab is Johnny Vegas (4p, 5.8).
Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a, 12p) continues to the top of Black Velvet Wall.
Epinephrine (5.9, 18p) also goes to the top of Black Velvet Wall, but the money upper pitches are protected by 4 pitches of foreboding chimney! We climbed Black Widow Hollow (5.9, 3p) on Mescalito Tower to practice our chimney skills. Instead, we got scared away... the 2nd pitch should be broken up into 2. It has a committing move out of the chimney and up the face to a mantle which left us breathless.
Great Red Book (5.8, 2p) is really fun, and takes you to the top of Calico Hills, with some nice views.
As well, pick up the new `Red Rocks:A Climber`s Guide` at Desert Rock Sports. This is probably the best guidebook I have seen to anywhere. Full color pictures of just about everything, with great topos for all of the classics.
Cheers, Fraser
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103 Posts |
Posted - 02/29/2008 : 09:41 AM
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| Anyone done Fridgid Air? I think this links to a summit route. |
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103 Posts |
Posted - 03/01/2008 : 4:04 PM
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I read about one called Dark Shadows, which is 13p and seems to top out. Thanks for your help everyone.
Cheers, Andrew |
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Whitehorse, Y.T
Canada
115 Posts |
Posted - 03/02/2008 : 8:18 PM
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| This has also been most helpful.. thanks all. |
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103 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2008 : 11:54 AM
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Here's a photo from our trip to Red Rock. If it uploads successfully I'll post a few more.  |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2008 : 7:53 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by loose overhang
Here's a photo from our trip to Red Rock. If it uploads successfully I'll post a few more.
It works. How about a trip report complete with climbing shots? |
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103 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2008 : 11:20 PM
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Spring Break near Las Vegas.
Day 1
Left behind cold, damp Vancouver. Flew down to Sin City with great views of southern Cascade volcanoes and over the top of Red Rock Canyon NRA. Picked up rental car. Noticed a few scratches, informed agent, card stamped, "Damage Noted". Drove to hotel --- sorry, we didn't camp, but I've been on enough uncomfortable trips, so an easy shower, a comfy bed and a nearby Brew Pub are worth the non-effort.
Inside the tent.
Day 2
We drove to the southern end of the Red Rock Canyon NRA for a look around and found the access road, across the dessert, to Black Velvet Canyon: closed. We decided to hike it anyway. It took 2.5hrs to get to the objective, but it was worth it. Unlike coastal BC there's always a long view.   
The picture sequence is from the start of the closed road to the entrance to Black Velvet Canyon.
Our first climb was to be Frogland. Six pitches, 5.8, and for the dessert, surprisingly cold.
    
 
Some climbing shots, a view of the route and dessert vegetation on the hike out. A longer day (10 hrs) than anticipated due to the road closure.
Day 3
We decided to go to an area close to a driveable road, i.e. short walk. So it was to be Pine Creek Canyon and the classic, Cat In The Hat on Mescalito Tower, Five pitches, 5.7. It turned out to be a bit of an odd climb, mostly because we were the only party on it all day, but we went off-route for a while, and had an awkward 1st, top, rappel with a single 60m rope. It seemed quite easy for 5.7, compared with Squamish routes of the same grade.    
Day 4
I had a convention to attend in Vegas for the next 1.5 days so we enjoyed some rest time.
Day 5
More convention but later in the day we went to Calico Hills for some sport climbing.   
We climbed routes in The Black Corridor, which reminded me a bit of Skaha. This gave us a better feel for the sandstone so next day we felt more confident on our next route.
Day 6
Ice Box Canyon
Frigid Air Buttress. IV, 9 pitches, 5.9+
 The climb goes up the middle of the picture.
    A bunch of climbing pics.
 The descent comes down the wall via a rather scary rappel.
Day 7
Rose Tower
Olive Oil. Four (very long) pitches, 5.7
   
More climbing pics. This was very enjoyable. The climbing was steep, but easy. The belays were on good ledges but a bit exposed and the descent was a walk-off.
     
The scenery from the top of Rose Tower plus a photo of inside The Wynn hotel on the strip. The Wynn is THE deluxe Vegas hotel/casino but, in my opinion, it does not have sublime beauty of the dessert because it contains a deceit. Its purpose is not to project nature but to extract cash. Sad, isn't it. |
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Red Rocks Nevada
