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 Outward Bound author of the Seinfeld Thread, who builds his own snowshoes
Troy, MT
USA
3121 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 5:39 PM
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| I was reading the coquihala mtn TR, and someone (EAK?) mentioned that is was a moderate-difficult scramble. which got me wondering, how hard is moderate? its too bad there isn't a rating system like with climbing that would simplify the whole matter. what would you rate going up the west lion as? |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1009 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 5:41 PM
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 5:54 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by Farmer
I was reading the coquihala mtn TR, and someone (EAK?) mentioned that is was a moderate-difficult scramble. which got me wondering, how hard is moderate? its too bad there isn't a rating system like with climbing that would simplify the whole matter. what would you rate going up the west lion as?
It's totally subjective. There is a rating system...2nd class, 3rd class, 4th class ect. To further break down these ratings as you do with 5th class would be totally pointless as they all overlap to some degree anyhow. It's even pretty subjective on 5th class where the ratings are broken down. 3rd can overlap with 4th and 4th can overlap with 5th. You can go out and solo a 5.5 and if everything flows and your head is in the right place it will feel like 4th and you might not even notice the few moves of 5.5. So yeah, calling it 3rd and 4th is already very simplified. It's easy climbing plain and simple. |
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Finally stopping that crazy suffering that is ice, climbing to concentrate on great ski tours!
3502 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 6:52 PM
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| Scrambling is VERY subjective. I am probably more comfortable soloing on low 5th class terrain than on most "hard" scrambles. Personally, I am not a big scrambler. No equipmenteering!! I'll spend my time on multi-pitch rock, thanks... |
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Calgary, Alberta
Andorra
3787 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 7:09 PM
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| If you do a few scrambles, and you get to know their difficulty in relation to each other, and compated to one continuous person's ratings, you can start to build an idea for yourself. Your standards may be a little higher, lower, or differently weighted, but you can usually translate it for yourself. In other words, go do some, and the ratings will be more understandable. Never concrete, but usable. :) |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 7:30 PM
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Around here, this is a simplified list of some of the classics, more or less in order of difficulty:
McGuire, normal route: low Class 2
Needle Peak, west ridge: Class 2.
Black Tusk, final chimney: Class 2-3
Sky Pilot, west ridge: Class 3
West Lion, regular route: Class 3-4
Needle Peak, NE Ridge: Class 4
Rexford, west ridge: Class 4
Old Settler, West Buttress of South Peak: Class 4-5
West Ridge of North Twin Sister is tricky to rate, it's Class 3 if you take the line of least resistance, but up to low 5th class if you stick to the very ridge crest all the way up
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Edited by - Dru on 07/18/2007 7:32 PM |
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| Paulo
Intermediate Member
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
768 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 7:46 PM
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I've done a bit of scrambling and, for me (totally subjective), 3rd class starts when my safety requires that I use my hands to move up/down/laterally on steep rock. Keeping things simple, 4th class is 3rd class rock combined with high-risk exposure. Low Fifth starts when I should be able to make the moves, if the rock is solid, but there are several moves in a row that will require good concentration on making solid foot and hand holds... and, once up aways, backing away will be a little stressful... then I'm starting to want a rope on. Of course others think rated low-fifth rock is a very easy climb and would not waste there time roping up. It all depends on your personal boundaries.
*Of course this does not take into account short crux moves or bouldering... I'm just generalizing here... thinking of the progression from low angle to very high angle (steep) slope sections. |
Edited by - Paulo on 07/18/2007 7:55 PM |
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 10:25 PM
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Just to clarify.....my use of the terms moderate, difficult or very difficult scrambles was to use a fairly objective rating system used within a number of scrambling books such as Matt Gunns and others. How hard is a particular scramble rating...you have to go do afew and then you can make that descision based on experience. Check out some popular scrambles you have done and then compare these with others that are rated. The West Lion is a difficult scramble...but a good description will add important information for a person to make a more accurate evaluation. A bunch of other factors, such as how long or short a scramble is, how exposed, the ease of descent, the proximity to an escape route and a host of other information could be factored in to find out how to approach a scramble.
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 Best grilled cheese maker ever
Whitehorse, YUKON
Canada
2142 Posts |
Posted - 07/18/2007 : 11:47 PM
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2nd class = boring
3rd class = awesome
4th class = more awesome
5th class = george mallory would be proud.
This rating is system is not subjective.
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91 Posts |
Posted - 07/19/2007 : 11:15 AM
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| as everybody has said there is a simple grade for climbing from 1 - 5. 6th class being aid climbing which is broken down into A1-5 or C1-5 (clean). 5th grade is the normal rock grade from 5.0 to 5.15 now. I've seen good climbers scramble up 5.10 in running shoes, but most climbers get concerned on low 5th class and want a rope buy 5.6 or .7 |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1128 Posts |
Posted - 07/19/2007 : 11:29 AM
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Here's my take on it.
If you're travelling without a rope, I think this is how it works...
class 2 = 2 beers when you're done (and maybe one during)
class 3 = 3 beers when you're done
class 4 = 3 beers, and maybe a scotch when you're done
class 5 = give'r when you're done
However, if you're roped, it's more complicated
class 2 = give'r when you're done (you just hauled all your gear up the equivalent of the Oak street hill)
class 3 = 3 beers, and maybe a scotch when you're done
class 4 = 3 beers when you're done
class 5 = give'r when you're done
As you can see, carrying a rope etc significantly increases the need for reydration after the climb.
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Edited by - eeyun on 07/19/2007 11:30 AM |
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362 Posts |
Posted - 07/20/2007 : 1:57 PM
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A whole lot of new ratings here for us to learn!
LOL |
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Topic |
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difficulty of scrambles
