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New Westminster, BC
Canada
173 Posts |
Posted - 08/27/2006 : 11:04 PM
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So. We've mentioned a few times, Steve (arbutusq) and I, that we were doing the WCT from Bamfield starting August 18, 2006. We had nine days booked to do the trip; we were planning on louging our way from Carmanah to Cullite, taking three days and getting plenty of beach time in. Sounds relaxing, right?
We camped right on the beach in the campground by the trailhead in Port Renfrew after pulling in at just after 11pm. The night was clear and it was the first time I had ever seen stars right down to the horizon. We parked the car about a 20 minute walk further down the road for $20/week -- thanks for the advice, guys.
Waking up early to the sound of fishing boats heading to sea was lovely. Looking across the Gordon River, we saw the fog bank hugging the last stretch of WCT.
The trailbus was prompt, fun, and the preventative Gravol worked a trick. The operator even agreed to take an impromptu pee-break about 40 minutes in the trip... "Better that than throwing up, eh?" "Yup." I felt much better holding up the bus trip when every single person (driver included) jumped off the bus and ran for the bushes.
Here we are, clean and happy at the Bamfield trailhead.
The Parks person who gave the presentation was awful. She rushed through, took lots of time to chat with the friends who interrupted her and glossed over important things like, oh, bears and tide tables. Oh well.
We got underway at just after two pm, and encountered our first ladders almost right away.
The trail was pretty easy, and we went along at a pretty good pace. We passed 'The Family' with teenagers pretty often as they stopped for massive snack breaks; we were passed by a group of 20-somthings from Prince George, but passed them at the top of every hill after they tired themselves out charging up... all in all, we made good time.
 We stopped for a look at Pachena Bay Lighthouse... I've seen crappier lawns in West Vancouver.
We were tired but happy to get to Michegan Creek, where there were really nice bathrooms and an incredible sunset.
  
I had one 'what the hell am I doing here' moment... taking out my contact lenses... looking for a contact lens in the sand... picking the sand out of the contact lens... but I got over it quick.
Steve was up at dawn the next morning. Taking photos.
  
We got underway... well, last. It was a relaxing morning. With lots of coffee.
Bye, everyone!
This green stuff isn't as slippery or wet as it looks.
 But there sure is a lot of it. 
Someone took our photo -- still relatively clean and just as happy.
It was alternately sunny and foggy, perfect hiking weather.
   
"Take only photographs..." I really wanted one of these urchin things... but I left it. Steve took a 'still life of beach stuff' for me.
What is it with us finding abandoned underwear on our trips?
Everywhere you turn, it's scenic.
  
Even the ladders are scenic ;-)
This is our favorite, most WCT-est photo that Steve took.
Here is Klanawa in the mist. There was a bees' nest under the cable car platform, so we waded across the mouth of the creek, which was dead easy. It was less than knee high on me, and only six feet across. Plus, we waded into the creek and soaked our hair, which felt amazing in the sun.
It was nice to walk through the sunny forest being damp and cleanish (and unstung).
I found it a little unfair -- we looked right across the falls down into the campsite at Tsusiat... then had to hike another fifteen minutes to get to the campsite! Not to mention the long, long ladders down...
Tsusiat was beautiful, absolutely exquisite. Water looks warm, doesn't it? Hah!
  
The tsunset at Tsusiat was so lovely and so long, that I've given lots of pictures.
   
Steve was up at dawn. Taking photos.
 
I was more than a little nervous about today, the 'long day' -- 17 kilometres from Tsusiat to Cribs Creek -- because distance isn't my strongest suit. I look pretty cheerful heading to the toilets, don't I? We got a later start than hoped (9:20 am), but were optomistic about the day.
The tides were wrong for us to walk on the packed sand, so we opted for the beach trail. It was fun actually, because we went by caves that made us feel like pirates! Arrrrr.
The WCT has all sorts of interesting obstacles.
It was an interesting day: we started on the beach, then the beach trail, then all sorts of high places looking over remote coves. We were overtaken several times by a Guardian and his young son who had also spent the night at Tsusiat. The Guardian had done a presentation on the WCT and native culture the night before but we went to bed early and missed it.
  
I was footsore and hungry when we reached Nitnat crossing, only having hiked 7 kilometres of the day's journey. We waited on the dock for 10 minutes for the ferry operator to come by. Fortunately, it was pretty.
 
On the dock on the other side, I was very excited. I'd been looking forward to crab day for months.
 
The dogs were much less excited.
The crab, potatos and drink for $20 was worth every penny. Amazing! We were well entertained by the Guardian's son, who was fishing off the dock. Every time someone threw crab debris into the water by the dock, a swarm of little salmon would instantly mob the bits in a boiling mass of fishes. The boy had caught one live salmon which was in a bucket with it's friend, who was floating belly-up. "It's just acting dead" said the little boy in perfect faith, as one of the men on a boat commented "it's a damn good actor, that one!". The entertainment was free.
The little boy wanted his picture taken with a fish on his hook, but the only co-operative one was the oscar-winner in the bucket.
I was well into my second wind when we left Nitnat along the biggest stretch of boardwalk I had seen to date. Not very far along, the boardwalk detours to avoid a beaver-flooded area -- right through the only real mud I saw on the WCT. I can't even imagine what it would be like in a wet season. We arrived at Cheewat in good time, mostly the result of some cougar-y rustlings and fresh scat by the bridge.
The beach by Cheewat was the most beautiful I saw (though I didn't see the entire trail). We rested a bit, caught a third wind, and set out along the sand.
  
We walked along the shelf, and around/over a headland with a sea stack.
Then more lovely (and easy) beach walking on the wet sand. Easy was good, because I was exhausted.
We hoped to walk the shelf the whole way to Cribs, but realized that the tide was coming in a little sooner than expected. Had I been more energetic, we could have made it, but we decided to backtrack 300 metres to the last beach access and go up and over the headland instead.
Those last kilometres were the most difficult I have ever done -- including Mt. Steele in Tevas. I was concerned about failing light, about the condition of my feet... about everything. When I saw the last ladders going down to the campsite, I burst into tears.
In camp, everything was much better.
It was especially nice knowing that we were starting our three leisurely days, beginning the next day when we only had to hike to Carmanah, stopping for dinner at Chez Monique's... what a hard life! A whole four kilometres plus dinner in one day!
Cribs was beautiful in the evening light, we were early to bed, and Steve was up early. Taking photos.
  
I woke up completely unsore and was feeling very confident about the rest of the trail. After a lazy morning, the last people heading north left us, but not before taking our picture. We're less clean still, but very, very happy. It is our ten-month anniversary.
I wish, here, that I could continue this trip report and show pictures of Carmanah, Walbran, Cullite -- even the dead sea lion at Logan. Unfortunately, things didn't go very well.
We decided to have a pasta lunch before heading off, since I'd been too tired to eat dinner the night before. At almost 2pm, while the macaroni was in mid-boil, and without anyone touching it, the pot of pasta leapt off our cute little stove and landed square on my Teva-clad foot. I was in the creek within 20 seconds, but it was too late. Within an hour we realized I had second-degree burns all over the top of my foot, and I would be unable to hike out.
Several people came by and offered assistance -- some nice British men who offered Flammazine and a wine gum... Club Tread's own Dangerboy who had the best stocked first aid kit I've ever seen... and a guy with a cell phone: "use all the roaming minutes you wantl; it's a work phone."
Dangerboy and Steve got me out of the creek, as I was getting hypothermic and shocky, which would have been even suckier. I've frankly never been in pain that bad, and I'd like to express my most profound thanks and apologies to Dangerboy and Steve both for enduring my howls and tears, and doing everything right besides.
Robyn, the Parks person, managed to land at Cribs beach (thank goodness for low swells) at 6:30, and evacuated me around 7:30pm with the help of a Calgary EMT-in-training and another young man. The other Parks woman was Natalie, and they took us by Zodiac to Port Renfrew where the ambulance took me to Sooke ambulance which took me to Victoria.
Steve's parents were called from the Parks Office and were the last car on the 9pm ferry. They rescued us in the ER and the car from Port Renfrew the next day, as well as putting us up for four days to recover.
What started out being a hike that was just barely not too hard, ended up being one of the most humbling experiences of my life. I'm so grateful for all the people who helped, especially Steve, who traded our Mars bars for hot tea for me :-)
I've attached a few (gruesome) pictures of my foot, which should serve as several warnings:
1. Don't cook in sandals, as the sandals make a little bucket for the hot water to sit on your foot.
2. Don't put your stove on a log, no matter how stable it seems.
3. Remember that anything -- anything -- can go wrong, no matter how prepared, or how well-read, or how psyched your are. Do, however, know when to call it quits. Because I chose to be evacuated, I'm not lying at the bottom of a cliff due to a pain-induced miss-step, or in the ER due to raging infection.
I will, in a month or two, be able to hike again.
After blister-popping:
And thank goodness for cable tv (thanks, John & Gayle!):
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Edited by - Lorien on 08/27/2006 11:18 PM
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 ass wigglin, cheese lovin, 4x4 drivin, apostrophe hatin, hiking chick who loves camping on snow
spaceship..
Canada
7142 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 12:03 AM
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Oh my goodness Im so sorry that your trip ended so undesirably... but glad that you're ok!
What wonderful photos you have, and such a nice story to tell - until the mishap... I have no words of wisdom to offer... only that rest assured things do happen to all of us...
I hope your foot heals quickly!
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Bowen Island, BC
Canada
610 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 12:42 AM
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Wow! I didn't expect that shocking ending to your beautiful photo-essay of the WCT.
A few years ago I dumped a freshly made mug of tea on my foot. There is no way to escape the pain of a burn. And the wound was slow to heal. I feel for you.
Thanks for taking the time to assemble the story and the pictures. I've wondered what the fuss is about the WCT. No alpine meadows, no glaciers, no summit views. You folks certainly revealed some of the magic of the place.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery. |
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Coffee swillin', wine lovin', Owl fearin' Andie McDowell stunt double, who sports retro gear
Vancouver, BC
4988 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 01:16 AM
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That sure is a nasty burn!!! Poor you!!!
Looks like a fantastic trip up to that point though. Your photos and stories brought back great memories of last year's trip. That trail shuttle bus sure is barf-inducing; I remember feeling like I was about to die of caffeine withddrawal.
Glad to hear you found the campground in Port Renfrew (note to Steve: what, you didn't camp illegally in the parking lot of the visitor center next to the "Whale on a Stick"??) and this time instead of the Nutellas and the Germans to leapfrog, you found The Family. Totally understand your sentiments about Crab Day (except for me it was salmon).
At least you can remember the beautiful scenery while you wait for your foot to heal. I wish you a speedy recovery. |
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Penhold, Alberta
Canada
1617 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 02:19 AM
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| Ouch!! Lorien, I'm thinking that'll leave a mark. And it looked like you guy's were having such a great trip too. Good on you for knowing when too get evacuated, I can't imagine anyone trying to hike out on that injury. I hope you heel up quickly. Now your gonna have to go back sometime to get the rest of the WCT done. |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
4770 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 07:00 AM
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| Yeah...it would not have been wise to attempt to continue under your own power with a burn like that on your foot. The pain from the smallest amount of friction would be unbearable (not that it wasn't already). |
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new Westminster, bc
Canada
365 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 07:19 AM
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Thanks for all the kind words. THere is no way Lorien could have finished the trail, she can barely walk and it's been a week! (and a tub of flamazine)
Tracy, I wanted to camp at Whale on a Stick but Lorien nixed that idea. You guys would hike well together. Her addiction and craving for caffeine rivals yours!!
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Nature is my inspiration |
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Super botonist, hippie chick who cuddles thistles with glee
Langley, BC
Canada
1504 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 07:19 AM
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Oh Lorien, I am so sorry you were unable to complete the WCT. I hope your 11th month and 1-year anniversary are much less eventful. You two are a very sweet couple.
Thank you for sharing your (tragic) story. |
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 Big pack hiker who sleeps with bears in tent and falls on slippery logs
Langley, BC
Canada
7344 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 07:45 AM
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I was thoroughly enjoying your report and photos, but I didn't let myself skim to the bottom as I wanted to experience it through your report. In the back of my head my curiousity and worry was lingering as your title of the trip report tells all.
I feel bad for you that you had such a nasty burn. Fortunate that you were able to get evac'd and very wise choice at doing so. That would have been really bad to hike on and as you point out, would have likely caused a far worse accident. The WCT will be there for you to tackle again. For what its worth, I would say you saw the prettiest part of the trail anyway.
Take care of that foot and best wishes for a speedy recovery. |
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Peak scrambling, camera dodgin', knife toting gal who hikes with panties on pack & hangs clothes in trees
Port Coquitlam, BC
Canada
301 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 08:26 AM
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geez, I didn't even read the title in full, just the WCT part, was NOT expecting the ending.
Unlike a lot of reports, I was reading every single word and soaking in each picture, having just been there, and re-living the beauty and experience thru someone else's eyes. Awesome pictures Steve.
So sorry your trip had to end that way. Hope you heal fast Lorien, and that you get back there one day soon to tackle "ladder day"  and visit Monique's. Actually, as Longshadow said, you probably did see most of the beauty the WCT has to offer. There's a lot of people in BC that will never see any of it. You're one of the lucky ones (except for the foot, of course) |
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| Paulo
Intermediate Member
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
735 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 08:27 AM
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| Very unfortunate accident... I too wish you a speedy recovery, are thankful of all the help you received, and agree with LongShadow that you were able to experience the prettiest part of the trail. Great photos... thanks for posting them. |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4035 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 08:44 AM
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Ouch  ! I love reading your reports Lorien  and this one is no exception. That looks like some serious pain, I hope your recovery is quick and smooth.
Awesome pictures and wonderful story-telling.
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Fowl photographin, animal lovin, thread trollin, dry bag humpin, canoe canoodler
Vancouver, BC
Canada
2930 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 2:25 PM
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You a hardy tripper Lorien and despite the colourful foot pics... I'd hike with someone like you ANY DAY!
Wish more people had your attitude about accidents. Sorry the trip ended short for you. |
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
1190 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 2:32 PM
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That has gotta hurt!
I so enjoyed your report and pictures and was totally taken back by the ending. I sure hope it heals quickly and that you'll be back out hiking in no time.
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"Smile, it is the key that fits the lock to everybody's heart." |
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| deeks
Intermediate Member
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exiled, ON
Canada
616 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 3:40 PM
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| Oh no! What a way to end your trip. I'm glad you got out and were so well taken care of. It is a good reminder that you never know what's going to heppen. |
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Fungi Filmin', Wine Drinkin', 'Shroom Eatin', Early Risin', Deer Whisperin', Curry Cookin', Macro Maniac
Chilliwack + Osoyoos
3392 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 3:50 PM
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Fantabulous pictures... and story...
Sad ending... ;o(
C'Jack...
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...hang on, I'm coming... |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1091 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 5:08 PM
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fabulous pics and report, Major ouchie! glad you survived and had lots of good help around you. I know how painful a large second degree burn can be....and how long the pain can last.
Good luck with the recovery!
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The tougher the climb, the better the food tastes. -Lupin- |
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Fleece thong wearin, Buntzen Lurkin, mystic poet mountain man and international spokesman of the friends of the white squirrel society
Port Moody, B.C.
Canada
5555 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 6:37 PM
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Read this today when I woke up at 5:00am. Dam that must have hurt like hell. What a heartbreak but you know that trail will still be there waiting for when you get better.
I would suspect that at some point in time you WILL return and kick its butt !
Speedy recovery Lorien.
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Vancouver Hiking
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New Westminster, BC
Canada
173 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 6:58 PM
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Thank you all for your good wishes and commiserations...
Recovery appears to be slow but sure; I'm getting itchy around the edges, which is a good [arrgghh] sign.
We've already started plotting our/my revenge; some trail arse-kicking is definitely in order. Maybe next year? WCT honeymoon, hmmm?
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ass wigglin, cheese lovin, 4x4 drivin, apostrophe hatin, hiking chick who loves camping on snow
spaceship..
Canada
7142 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 7:02 PM
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quote:
some trail arse-kicking is definitely in order.
So long as that's the only @$$ you kick 
Glad to hear you're feeling better Lorien, that sure looked nasty, couldnt imagine even getting a sandal on over those sores!
Honeymoon, ah yes, I heard the bells are ringin' - I think I said this to your other half (which half is better? )... but, congratulations! I know I haven't met you, but he's said so many wonderful thngs about you, and I think you two sure make a sweet couple
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
981 Posts |
Posted - 08/28/2006 : 7:14 PM
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So sorry to hear about your foot, I'm always a little nervous with camp stoves, even when my kid isn't around I find them a little freaky .
All the best for a speedy recovery, glad you got such awesome pix to remind you of the happy parts of your trip. |
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WCT: Evacuation number 45, baby!
