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 Terminator shade wearing, summit questing, double Grinding, Gordo voting self annointed 'dumb ass' and Aconcagua Bagga who dreams of Robson, Teton, The Judge, and.....and....
Port Moody, B.C
Canada
1857 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:22 AM
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Despite an exausting but successfull summit of Sir Donald via the classic NW ridge this day would prove to be one of the most difficult and sad days of Paulo's and my life. We even talked about mabye not even doing a TR at all but if the lessons told save 1 life it is worth it. Paulo and I saw a woman rap down a rope which did not reach the ground. We pointed it out thinking all right she will stop and we will somehow get out there and pull her in. Well running a normal ATC on a twin rope gave little friction and it became apparent she could not hold on. I was roped up for a rap on a pair of bolted rings about 15 feet away and with Paulo's help pendulumed out to get her to tie a knot in the rope below here. By the time I leg wrapped the rope to give myself the friction I needed to free my hands and tie the knot she was gone. I won't talk about what we saw after but know it's a moment in our lives that will forever be etched into our memeories. I greive for her family and feel so much guilt that we could not reach her in time.
Take away one of these 5 scenarios and the out come is different.
1 Rope didn't reach the ground
2 Ends not tied
3 Right size ATC for a twin rope
4 no back up prussik
5 lack of knowledge on how to create additional friction.
I hope perhaps someone may read this and have a thought when they are on rappel of how serious this routine skill is.
I will add some pictures but forgive me for not saying much about such a classic and what should be amazing climb, just doesn't seem so great right now. God bless her and those who love her.
NW ridge is entire left sky line
Paulo at base of climb
     
Assorted climbing pictures
 
A couple summit pic's.
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Nothing ventured, nothing gained!! |
Edited by - Jeffster on 08/21/2006 07:38 AM
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 Fungi Filmin', Wine Drinkin', 'Shroom Eatin', Early Risin', Deer Whisperin', Curry Cookin', Macro Maniac
Chilliwack + Osoyoos
3392 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:36 AM
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Thanks for posting this Jeff... I know how you both must feel...
I'm not a climber, however I am aware that it can be fun and exciting... However, like you said (and true for most things) experience is manditory in all walks of life...
Sad story...
C'Jack...
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...hang on, I'm coming... |
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Burnaby, BC
Canada
97 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:37 AM
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OMG Jeff, what a horrible experience, my condolences to all those involved.
It was good of you to try and help, and you still deserve a hearty congratulations on achieving the summit. |
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Simpson quoting tree hunter and canyon rapping rockhound who longs for the return of his trapped Toyota
Somewhere deep and narrow, BC
Canada
2206 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:43 AM
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| Jeff and Paul-I know that must have been a very difficult event to witness. Even worse to be that woman's family and getting the phone call from the park service. Knowing the two of you, you both did absolutely everything you could, given the situation. Don't let the guilt part get on top of you! |
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Moxie scambler of pinnacles, tireless leader haunting the CDN/US border climbing everything in sight
Burnaby, BC
Canada
1250 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:51 AM
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Really sorry to read this Jeffster and Paulo. I can only imagine what you're going through. Take care.
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:53 AM
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 Oh man, that sucks.
Would it have made any difference if you had a prussik yourself instad of needing to do a leg wrap?
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Wine stirs the spring, happiness bursts through the earth like a plant, walls crumble, and rocky cliffs, chasms close, as song is born. |
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map hatin', coffee perc totin', garbage collectin', backpacking, action hero wannabe, who loves to hide out in Garibaldi park and will have his scouts sing if you keep him awake at night
Vancouver, BC
Canada
2257 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 07:56 AM
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This is truly sad. My best wishes to her family and friends.
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Edited by - Marc on 08/21/2006 07:56 AM |
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double-double seeking, snow-chasing, short-cutting, vertical feet collector
Vancouver, BC
Canada
4385 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 08:01 AM
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oh goodness - I am so sorry.
Jeff and Paulo - you did the best that you could with what you could, there is nothing to feel guilty about (but all the emotions that you feel right now are completely normal)
My sincerest sympathies to the unknown woman's friends and family - and goodness, to the person rapping her that day. |
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ass wigglin, cheese lovin, 4x4 drivin, apostrophe hatin, hiking chick who loves camping on snow
spaceship..
Canada
7142 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 08:05 AM
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Oh my goodness, I feel sick to my stomach reading this. No words of wisdom ever come to mind at times like these.
My condolences to her family, and as previously said don't let the guilt get to you - you did everything you could. |
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Chilliwack, BC
Canada
48 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 08:11 AM
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Very sorry to hear that very sad. |
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858 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 08:11 AM
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| I'm sorry that you and Paulo had to experience this awful moment... and of course I feel for those close to the woman who lost her life. I hope you never have to go through something like this again. |
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Ladner
Canada
585 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 08:34 AM
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That's awful beyond imagination. I feel sick just reading about it, I can't even imagine what it must be like for you and Paul. You guys did everything you could, so don't be to hard on yourselves.
My condolences to her family and friends.
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| cjb
Junior Member
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Vancouver, British Columbia
Canada
339 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 08:39 AM
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| You showed good judgement in recognizing a dangerous situation and getting over to help as quickly as you could. Good for you for doing so, and honoring this woman's memory by describing exactly what went wrong, thereby lessening the situation's chances of ever happening again. |
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
1190 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:08 AM
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Thank you for sharing this with us. I can't imagine how difficult this TR must have been to write and I hope it will do as you wish, save at least one other life. You both are heros to me as you tried to help this lady and you have tried to use this horribly sad moment to try to educate others. Thank you.
My condolences to both of you and the lady's family. My prayers are with you.
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"Smile, it is the key that fits the lock to everybody's heart." |
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Vancouver, B.C.
Canada
953 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:11 AM
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| What a terrible experience for all involved. My condolences to the ladies family. Jeff and Paul, kudos to you two for your brave attempt. A sad day indeed. |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
4770 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:13 AM
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quote:
and goodness, to the person rapping her that day.
One raps them self. Not with the aid of another unless you are being lowered. It's 2 different things.
Jeffster, that must have been extremely difficult to witness. You did what you could. Remember that, and I am sure you already know this, it is in no way your fault. You did what you could, and good for you for recognizing a dangerous situation. This drives home the fact that rapping is one of the most dangerous aspects of climbing.
Learn the limitations of your gear before ever getting on a route. |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4035 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:18 AM
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I feel sick just reading this . I'm so, so sorry you both had to witness such a thing. Just horrible. Thank you for trying to save her.
My condolences to her friends & family.
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1120 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:28 AM
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| What a terrible experience Jeff, I am very sorry. |
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surrey, bc
Canada
1375 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:29 AM
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omg.. what a terrible thing.. i'm sure by posting this u will indeed help others who are into this sport.. i hope she didn't suffer and i hope u both dont let it affect u too long.. take good care of u'reselves..
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yeh baby!! |
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Terminator shade wearing, summit questing, double Grinding, Gordo voting self annointed 'dumb ass' and Aconcagua Bagga who dreams of Robson, Teton, The Judge, and.....and....
Port Moody, B.C
Canada
1857 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:31 AM
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Thanks so much for everyones kind words, the police and mountaineer liason assured us we did our best but obviously it's natural to keep playing out the routine over and over.
Dru. Wasn't sure if I should even respond and am suprised that you said what you did but FYI no I wasn't using a prusik myself. I didn't knot the ends on every rap either but knew for the ones we didn't they were on the ground. Fortunatley for my own piece of mind I was ancoured to the rap station with my PAS and feeding the rappel rope thru my belay device when it happened so doubt any difference in time would have been saved for I'd still have to wrap the prusik anyways. Had I allready actually started descending with a prusik on perhaps it may have I don't know. She was so calm we assumed she had it together untill she said also very calmly "I'm gone" We both screamed "no" and "oh my god" So many scenarios and what if's have ran through our heads you can't even imagine. I right now don't even know if I ever want to climb again.
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Nothing ventured, nothing gained!! |
Edited by - Jeffster on 08/21/2006 09:33 AM |
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| deeks
Intermediate Member
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exiled, ON
Canada
616 Posts |
Posted - 08/21/2006 : 09:36 AM
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| My heart goes out to the family & to you guys for having been there. It is so sad that just a few basic steps could have prevented this. Equipment is useless unless you know how to use it properly. You did what you could, I can't imagine how hard it was to be there. |
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Topic |
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Sir Donald. Our worse nightmare. Aug 20th
