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Mallorca
508 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2006 : 11:22 PM
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Everything got started when we saw Rented Mule's and Telkwa's TR about The Wave in Utah...We told ourselves let's go there!!
We first planned the trip last easter, driving from Vancouver would take us 18 hours to get there, then we would stay just two days, first day we would enter the lottery for the hiking permit and the second day (provided we had got the permit) we would hike The Wave and head back the fourth day...of course that plan didn't happen.
To hike The Wave a permit is needed, and just 20 per day are given. There are two ways to get one permit, either applying on the internet 4 months before (10 permits for day) or showing up the day before at the Paria Ranger Station where you enter a draw for the 10 remaining permits of the day. The chances are few and some people try every day until they get the permit.
So, we bought tickets to Las Vegas and decided to try our luck (no pun intended!), being so close to the Grand Canyon we decided to do at least one hike into it, but then again permits were given months ago. One very special place I really wanted to go to, Havasu Canyon, an Indian Reservation, had its campground full for the whole summer and the lady at the phone made it very clear...you need a reservation before getting there!
We had a plan: drive South from Las Vegas, hike down the canyon and beg for a site for our tent, drive east to the South Rim, drive North around the canyon to Utah, cross our fingers at the draw for The Wave and drive west towards Las Vegas, all in four days. A plan with chances of failure as nothing was reserved.
We left Vancouver to Seattle by bus, stayed the night and flew to Las Vegas early in the morning. Picked up our rental car and drove south, heading to route 66, the Mother road, where in a tourist information office I told the lady at the desk our plans about hiking down the canyon despite not having a reservation, she totally disagreed saying that the Havasupai were very strict about their rules and not having a permit to stay the night was not a good idea.
Did I say that we sometimes can be very stuborn? We kept going with our plan, we left Route 66 and drove towards the traihead for 1.5 hours in Havasupai land, at 3p.m we doned our backpaks and hit the trail.
Our idea was to get far and fast, so if we met a ranger it would be to late to send us back.
The trail was easy despite the heat, steep at the begining and almost level for the rest...but LONG, and DUSTY, did I say it was HOT? the ground was covered with gravel, sand, horse's sh*t and flies, making the walk very difficult.
The Havasupai have lived in the canyon for centuries, and their village, Supai, is the only one within it. They farm, weave and they are famous for their beautiful baskets but they live mostly out of the tourism.
 
We got to the village at 6.30p.m, headed to the office to get the permit expecting to be told off but instead we were welcomed. I couldn't believe it!!
From Supai to the campground there are 2 more miles. At this point we were extremely knackered but when I thought I couldn't walk for any longer, we saw this...  , very fast we got out of our dusty clothes and put our tropical swimming suits on (mind you, the Havasupai's ettiquete doesn't allow nudism!) and took a wonderful swim.
Havasu Falls.
   
After a long and deserved bath we got to the campground, it was full. We found a site, set up camp, had dinner and went to bed inmediately. Next morning we hiked 1/4 mile to another waterfall...
Mooney Falls.
Went back to pack as there was a long hike back, but before I took a bath beside our site:
 Note our tent at the right hand side.
The two miles back and up to the village were very hard, at 8a.m the heat was starting to hit without mercy, and our bodies were really tired from the day before. We decided to have our backpacks taken up on horses, but there weren't any available (you have to book them ahead!) but wait, every other day a helicopter makes trips in and out of the canyon with groceries, backpacks and everyone happy to pay $85 for the ride. You know what? Berni told me, I wouldn't mind being helicoptered up and you? Are you joking I would love to get a ride!!!
From the air:
  
 picture of the trail close to the start point.
Second part coming soon |
Edited by - PiB on 05/25/2006 1:38 PM
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 Maple syrup lovin', tree huggin', face paintin' relocated Québécoise who is VERY serious about having fun
Vancouver
Canada
2637 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2006 : 11:34 PM
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| Cool pics PiB! Glad to see you had a good time... |
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Coffee swillin', wine lovin', Owl fearin' Andie McDowell stunt double, who sports retro gear
Vancouver, BC
5464 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2006 : 11:37 PM
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Wow, PiB. Just...wow! Do you have any idea how envious I am, especially after seeing these:
I look forward to seeing the rest.
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Abbotsford, BC
Canada
1005 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2006 : 11:46 PM
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This is one of those trip destinations people should just make time for. We went a year ago march just after a major flood there! This place has a really unique and out of this continent feel to it. The most challenging part was getting through to someone on the phone. It took me about 2 months of trying...and then when we got through (5 days before we left BC) and and finally arrived at the office in the villiage they weren't even interested in a confirmation #.?!!
Anyway a great experience and your pics. are a beautiful reminder. Did you do the wall and tunnel descent down to the base of mooney falls? |
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Fowl photographin, animal lovin, thread trollin, dry bag humpin, canoe canoodler
Vancouver, BC
Canada
4036 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2006 : 11:52 PM
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I absolutely love Utah, and paddled the Green river out of Moab for two weeks.. have to say though, saw nothing like this 
Amazin pics of the water there! |
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vancouver
Canada
1018 Posts |
Posted - 05/24/2006 : 11:56 PM
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WOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW
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Langley, BC
77 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 12:18 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by PiB
Did I say that we sometimes can be very stuborn?
-yes, you guys are stuborn, i like that; otherwise, I won't see this-nice trip!
quote:
Originally posted by PiB
Second part coming soon
-hey, looking forward to it
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God fearin' music packin' animal BBQin' funny trip reportin'.... cheese lovin' MH lover who skinny dips in Ling secret lakes
Somewhere between pomp & circumstance, British Columbia
Canada
1400 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 12:23 AM
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That is a place I have wanted to go for a loooong time. (Mostly just to add to Boris's "CT members Drop their..." thread.) So much for that idea. You are a lucky couple.
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May your paths be crooked, your shadows long, and your mules rented. |
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 Best grilled cheese maker ever
Whitehorse, YUKON
Canada
2142 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 12:25 AM
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This trip report kicks ass from here to Las Vegas!
Are people able to jump off those waterfalls? |
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Fleece thong wearin, Buntzen Lurkin, mystic poet mountain man and international spokesman of the friends of the white squirrel society
Port Moody, B.C.
Canada
5897 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 12:38 AM
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Del Sol and I missed out on that last year due to our timeline. Just for punishment she bought me the poster of Havasu Falls.It's on the wall next to my computer just as a reminder of what we missed. After reading this ( you lucky dogs) NOW I want to go more than ever.
Great shots and well worth the effort to get there I would say.
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No Trail is Long with Good Company.
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Simpson quoting tree hunter and canyon rapping rockhound who longs for the return of his trapped Toyota
Salt Lake City, UT
USA
2268 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 07:59 AM
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| You'd drive down there to do a day hike, then turn around and come back!!! Where have you two been all my life?!! Can I stow away in the trunk the next time you do that? I'm seriously canyon deprived right now and your Havasu TR just about has me writing out my resignation letter. I have to say that is pretty lucky getting the permit right away-I required a 2 month advance for our trip, and that was pretty lucky at the time we went. |
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Fleece thong wearin, Buntzen Lurkin, mystic poet mountain man and international spokesman of the friends of the white squirrel society
Port Moody, B.C.
Canada
5897 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 08:04 AM
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I agree. What's that saying about "Horseshoes" 
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No Trail is Long with Good Company.
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Satirical photoshop junkie who frolics in the mountains of the Chilliwack River Valley
Chilliwack, BC
Canada
6897 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 08:45 AM
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| Yeah I love Utah as well. Some of the finest hiking and photo ops come out of that State. Sigh...another destination to add to my list. |
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Mallorca
508 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 09:02 AM
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To be honest even I feel envious seeing us in the pictures I wish we could have spent more time there, but hey! no complaints. We are going back to that area for sure (TMC, we'll give you a holler!!)
quote:
Are people able to jump off those waterfalls?
No, it wasn't allowed, anyway jumping from 100ft looked like a neck breaker to me.
quote:
Did you do the wall and tunnel descent down to the base of mooney falls?
We didn't, swimming in Havasu was good enough for us. Next time we would like to hike all the way down to the Colorado river, though.
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double-double seeking, snow-chasing, short-cutting, vertical feet collector
4523 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 09:06 AM
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| Nice! Utah is a beautiful state. |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4646 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 09:09 AM
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Picture postcard of an oasis - holy crap that looks inviting!!!
Keep those pics coming PiB - you've got all of us somewhat envious of your trip   |
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ass wigglin, cheese lovin, 4x4 drivin, apostrophe hatin, hiking chick who loves camping on snow
spaceship..
Canada
7209 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 09:09 AM
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HHhrrrrmmmmm!!!
I wanna go! (waves hands and stomps feet childishly), Im so jealous!
It looks like a real paradise!
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Mallorca
508 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 09:16 AM
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quote:
Originally posted by seawallrunner
Nice! Utah is a beautiful state.
I agree, but bear in mind Havasu canyon is in Arizona, Utah is coming in the second part of the TR. |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1011 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 09:57 AM
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I love your go-for-it spirit, PIB!
Your out of country trips (and pix!) are always so amazing . |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
159 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 1:24 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by PiB
That canyon is just beautiful - we went there in October '99 with Trek America and had a great time. We now have a big poster of Havasu Falls on our wall. The climb down to the base of Mooney Falls is fun too, with all those chains and slick travertine. We hiked out at 6am as it was just too hot otherwise. It took 2 Clif Bars to get me back out - the last stretch back up to the canyon rim was a killer. We would have been glad just to get a mule ride, let alone a helicopter!
When we were there the `facilities' at the rim required a pretty strong stomach - are they still as bad?
quote:
Second part coming soon
Looking forward to it |
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Mallorca
508 Posts |
Posted - 05/25/2006 : 1:35 PM
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Second part.
After the awesome ride in helicopter we drove back to Route 66, went through the small town of Williams and turned left to Grand Canyon Ntl Park where we spent the afternoon admiring the IMPRESSIVE views.
Grand Canyon South Rim. Drive from Canyon village to Desert View.
  
We slept and showered (we sooooo needed it!) in a cozy motel in Tuba City, inside the Navajo Nation.
Next morning we drove to Utah through beautiful desert scenery during sunrise. We had to be early at the Paria Ranger Station to put our names in the draw for the Wave permit wich happens at 9 a.m every day. So we got there at 7.30, nice! we still had time for breakfast (second of the day). But...wait! the sign says that they are open and there are lots of people inside!!! Holy cow!! we forgot that Utah is one hour ahead from Arizona, it's actually 8.30!!!! Just in the nick of time we filled the form with our names: Berni, 1 group, two people. There were 11 more groups, 23 people in total mostly from Germany (there was a group of 4 guys) and around the States. Numbers were assignated, being ours 1. Like in the Bingo, small wooden balls started rolling in a drum and one by one the ranger read the ones that came out of it:
Number 11, Kurt, one person...9 left.
Number 9, Ivonna, one person...8 left
My hearth was beating so fast... the room was in complete silence.
Number 5, Martin, two people...6 left
I looked at the group of four guys, they were in tension.
Number 3, two people...4 left
Number 8, one people...3 left (next time guys!!)
Number 10, one people...two left
Number 1...Berni, two people. Yeeeeeeee!!!! we were the last ones...we couldn't believe our luck!
Then we had breakfast
With the day free of plans, we decided to pay a visit to Monument Valley not very far from there (2 hours).
  
 We drove into the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park instead of taking the tour in the open 4x4s and thanks god we did it because towards the end of the drive a hell of a sandstorm hit the place, we had to laugh at the poor people that were going with the tour, hard time for them...sorry!
  
Time for a nibble:
after that we just had watermelon for dinner!
We then went back to Page and from there we drove to Wire Pass trailhead, where we camped inside our car, fearing another sandstorm. Camping there is free and there is an outhouse.
We woke up with glorious sunshine and hit the trail before 7a.m.
 There is not a marked trail, so it's very important to recognize some landmarks that help with the navigation (the ranger gave us a map and instructions)
 The Wave is close to this crack...we are almost there!
The Wave
 surfing The Wave
   
We did some exploration around:
  
In our way back we decided to check out Slot Canyon, you have to self-pay for a permit, $5.
  
Back to the car and off to the road again. We drove trough Zion Natl Park, the scenery dramatically changed for a while...it was very beautiful.
As we passed St. George I thought about Rented Mule, it would have been very nice to meet you Jerry but as you can see our plans were a bit unpredictable, next time!
Our flight from Las Vegas to Seattle was at midnight, so we thought, I checked the itinerary just in case...no, no...here it says we are departing at 10.17p.m...Ohh well, I didn't want to gamble anyways, so the only pictures from Las Vegas we have were taken from the car.
or maybe I did??
At the airport I managed to play for the first time in my life in one of those slot machines, I bet a dollar and I won $3.50. isn't that lucky?!!
At home, more than 12 hours later:
Great destination, a place we are going back with more time and hopefully with family, that is something to share!! |
Edited by - PiB on 05/25/2006 2:51 PM |
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Four days, three states (complete)
