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 Manitoba's misadventurin' bushwhackin', dog sloggin', dehydratin', beer drinkin' biggie - who's eager to peak bag Mt Currie in a dress
Squamish
4700 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:04 PM
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Here's another long trip report 
This is only my perspective of a trip to Joffre and Matier peaks. There were 11 of us in total. The group size was very large, but we were splintered into self-sufficient subgroups so it all worked out ok. The members were Paul O, Jim and Tracy, Greg Stoltmann, Dan, Suze, Marjan, Radmila, Goran, Jeff (Jedd), and myself. The final, and perhaps most active member was my dog, Willie. More on his heroics later.
Before I start, I just wanna say a special thanks to Paul, who took a lot of effort to take group and individual photographs, often missing out on being a part of the group shots. He really made a special effort with the pictures, and it's much appreciated.
So, anyway, the trip. The whole gang, except myself, went up to Keith's hut on the saturday night. Being that I live in Pemberton for the moment, and am only 45 minutes from the trailhead, I decided to daytrip it, and not bother with the task of carrying tent, sleeping bag etc. So it happened that I rolled out of my nice warm bed at 12:17am. Left my place at 1:30, arrived at the Cerise trailhead by 2:15, hiking by 2:30, and arrived at the hut shortly after 4 - still dark. Nice moonlight on the way, though. On crawling up the morain to the hut, Willie got very excited because he could smell my friends up there, and he knew an adventure was brewing. I attached his leash to my waistbelt to restrain him from jumping in someone's tent. As it was, I know I wasn't an appreciated arrival at the campsite, tromping around in noisy snowshoes. Jim heard me and poked his head out of the tent and we made voice contact, so I know I didn't have to go any farther to search for my crew. I went and waited inside the hut while everyone got ready and had breakfast. There were three other dogs in the hut, and when I arrived inside at 4:20am quite a commotion ensued. Frankly I don't know why people stay in huts with their dogs and many other people - I have sworn never to do this, out of consideration.
So at about 5:15 or so our group, consisting of Jeff, Jim, Tracy and myself, started up the ridge leading to the Anniversary glacier. Shortly afterward the sun started to come up, and we could see Paul and Suze and Radmila just behind. Paul caught up and overtook us right away. Every time I've hiked with Paul, I'm impressed with his strength and ability to push through.
   
So in no time we gained the col, each of us taking turns breaking trail. The going was pretty easy, the snow was in good condition. Our group, including Paul now, regrouped and headed down off Anniversary and onto the Matier glacier towards the Australian Couloir, which was our intended, and easiest route up to Joffre Peak:
Once there we had some good views of Cassiope and Saxifrage, which brought back some good bushwacking memories for Jim and Tracy and myself - our first trip together:
 - Cassiope is the little bump in the foreground to the left, while Saxifrage is the larger bump to the right.
From here, we detoured left a bit to get a break in the sun and out of the wind. I think the time was somewhere around 7 am. The Aussie couloir looked delicious:
 For those that don't know, the couloir is the big fat snow slope leading 1000 feet, straight up to the top.
As the remainder of the group came and joined us, we put on our crampons and started up the 45 degree slope. It was steep, but I didn't feel too exposed here, because the rock walls give a comforting feeling of enclosure.
A few pics of the ascent:
    
About an hour or so after entering the couloir, we topped out, and from there it was a short walk to the summit:
  
A few more pics from the summit of Joffre Peak:
    
Of course Willie was the first to summit, being Dog Extraordinaire
 Of course, how could I be up there and not take a picture of Mount Currie? Dead center in the picture. Wedge and Weart off to the left.
Nothing left to do except head down. Most of us downclimbed initially face-in to the couloir, and then turned around after the slope eased back to 40 degrees or so.
The only people on skis were Greg Stoltmann and Dan, and Greg had enough moxy to ski down the couloir, having been denied skiing it the previous year. You can just see him in the bottom right on this pic:
 My hat's off to anyone who has the balls to ski this thing - frankly I don't think I'd ever want to be a good enough skier to be able to do that. But who knows, maybe I'll eat those words someday. 
We regrouped down at the bottom, and had a bit to eat. I sat around chatting with Greg for awhile while the others made their way back up to the Joffre/Matier col.
Once we got back up to the col, Jim immediately asked me "So we are really thinking about going for Matier too..... you interested?" We had discussed this somewhat on the way up to Joffre, but I was feeling pretty spanked after that last ascent to the col. But after seeing that everyone was pretty stoked to give it a go, I said "Sure! Let's go" It was, after all, only 11:30 am.
This time, Greg led the way. I don't blame him - I sure as hell wouldn't want to skin up a steep slope that had just been mashed to hell by a bunch of snowshoers. He rocketed up that slope:
We had the good fortune of a trail being broken for us, which made life so much easier. Not to mention that the conditions were bomber, the snow was solid, the temps were cold, and we didn't get the slush that I was anticipating.
The slope steepens to about 45 degrees after we left the next col:
 (This might be my favorite pic of the day)
We switchbacked up the ever steepening slope, until it got too steep even to switchback, and the only choice was to go straight up, a bootpack staircase made by those who went before us - thank you!:
Once we gained the ridge, it was but a short matter of walking over to the summit:
And the summit shot (again, Paul is not in the pic because he's taking the photo with my camera):
I say 'It was but a short matter of walking over to the summit', but frankly, in winter, that ridge was a knife edge, with easily a thousand feet of exposure on either side. The walk itself was easy, but the mind tells you that 6 inches one way or another and you're dead. Just keep looking forward, one foot in front of another, and don't look down
Here is a pic of Joffre from the summit of Matier, the Aussie couloir looking impressive (again, for those that don't know, like my Mom, the snow line that goes straight up):
Anyway, from there there was nothing to do but go down. Frankly I was scared. I had been exposed before, but never like this, on snow. In contrast to Joffre, Matier was steep, wide open with a long run out and cliffs at the bottom if you can't self arrest. Rock is one thing, snow is completely different. One step at a time
That's it! This was a fantastic trip, probably my best ever in the mountains. The conditions were perfect, the snow was good, the temps were cold, the hikers were strong and united. I expanded my limits here. I broke my personal altitude record here twice in one day, first with Joffre at 8900ft, and then with Matier at 9200ft, give or take. I descended my first 50 degree snow slope. I self arrested a short fall with my ice axe.
 Snowshoers sure can mess up a slope, can't they 
A note on Willie the dog - he was the first to reach both summits (with the exception of Greg beating him to Matier). He is a small but powerful and energetic mixed breed from Mt Currie. For the first time in my life with him, I had to physically drag him down away from the hut. He was so tired that he didn't want to leave the hut - of course not, there was food there and he could curl up in a corner! Never have I seen him so tired. I think that in itself is a mark on the kind of trip this was. I have never been so proud of this little dog.
Wow. What a day. Many thanks to everyone for positive attitudes, and great and infectious energy
Hey guys, we just did that |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
LOGAN LAKE, B.C.
Canada
8878 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:12 PM
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Boy, aren't you an early riser Blackfly. Great reward with the early start and the superb views. For lighting you must have had a good strong headlamp to find your way up there.
Only been to the third lake in late spring, I would enjoy this as well except it is about a 4 to 5 hour drive from where I am.
Regards, |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:21 PM
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I can't give out White Squirrels so I award this trip report the "double shot"
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canine loving, machete-toting bushwhacking lake seeker, Indiana Jones hat-wearing off-road 4x4 guru
Surrey Hole, BC
Canada
4916 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:21 PM
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Beautiful T/R
Most excellent ascent and safe descent on 2 peaks.Great to have such strong individuals forming a united team |
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Maple syrup lovin', tree huggin', face paintin' relocated Québécoise who is VERY serious about having fun
Vancouver
Canada
2618 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:22 PM
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As Darren would say... wicked!
Give Willie a congrats hug from me. Never met him but I like him already! |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1120 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:22 PM
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Incredible! Nice work bagging both peaks.
Is there enough snow to travel unroped on the glacier? |
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| LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2022 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:22 PM
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| oy - nice writeup. Posted the comment in the other Aussie couloir writeup before seeing your TR. You'll be straightlining Aussie soon enough. |
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Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
All out of Mexi-Cokes:(
3024 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:27 PM
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Great report and photos. Really gives a feel for the area and makes me want to head up there sometime. What was your total time for the day?
Willie The Wonderdog |
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Bowen Island, BC
Canada
612 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:32 PM
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Blackfly, that is an awesome trip report! Awesome (I had to say it again)!
I love the idea of an alpine start that begins in your own bed. What’s this business of, "Being that I live in Pemberton for the moment?"
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Manitoba's misadventurin' bushwhackin', dog sloggin', dehydratin', beer drinkin' biggie - who's eager to peak bag Mt Currie in a dress
Squamish
4700 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:38 PM
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quote:
Originally posted by simonc
Great report and photos. Really gives a feel for the area and makes me want to head up there sometime. What was your total time for the day?
Willie The Wonderdog
Simon, I arrived at the TH by 2:15am, and was out at the truck at almost exactly 5:00 pm. Careful if you go solo, my friend, that's a lot of glacier. |
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| LeeL
Advanced Member
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Extreme ski tourin, mountain bikin addict who hikes at least once a year
2022 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:44 PM
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| That's a lot of glacier but the snow depth is encouraging at the present. You'll also travel a bit quicker on skis for the most part Simon fwiw |
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Coffee swillin', wine lovin', Owl fearin' Andie McDowell stunt double, who sports retro gear
Vancouver, BC
5014 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:51 PM
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Wow!! Fantastic job! Kudos to the dog, too.
quote:
Originally posted by blackfly
So it happened that I rolled out of my nice warm bed at 12:17am.
About an hour before my usual bedtime. |
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ass wigglin, cheese lovin, 4x4 drivin, apostrophe hatin, hiking chick who loves camping on snow
spaceship..
Canada
7142 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:53 PM
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What they who have posted before me said...   |
Edited by - Shadee on 03/20/2006 10:53 PM |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1096 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 10:56 PM
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| Awesome report. There must be a hall of fame somewhere that needs to know about Willie. |
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Night owl posting,Subie driving, backpacking Dad who is perpetually trying to catch up to his kids on the trail.
Vancouver, BC
Canada
2812 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:11 PM
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Truly spectacular. You've got to love the fact that great adventures are to be found so close to your front door!
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"Aging ... it beats the alternative" |
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 adventure seeking, peak-bagging, high-enduring, strong and silent forest gnome
N49°09', W122°47'
Canada
3814 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:18 PM
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| WOW! |
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
626 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:33 PM
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| SWEEEEEET! |
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Big pack hiker who sleeps with bears in tent and falls on slippery logs
Langley, BC
Canada
7390 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:34 PM
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| Nice! Two in one go.. Well done!! |
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Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
11093 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:36 PM
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| And now I know why you woke up at 12:17 am What an epic trip, start to finish |
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Terminator shade wearing, summit questing, double Grinding, Gordo voting self annointed 'dumb ass' and Aconcagua Bagga who dreams of Robson, Teton, The Judge, and.....and....
Port Moody, B.C
Canada
1857 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:38 PM
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My god man that is incredibile!! Both peaks from the road in a day, hell of a job Chris and all.
That's what I'd call CT "heavy duty" for sure. |
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Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
11093 Posts |
Posted - 03/20/2006 : 11:45 PM
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| Almost forgot, Chris...."Huzzah ! Huzzah ! You have attained two summits !" |
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Joffre and Matier
