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Coquitlam, BC
Canada
191 Posts |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 2:29 PM
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Been meaning to do this for a while, and what a beauty she was! Met my climbing partner on the West Lion a couple of weeks ago, and we decided to head up this week. Couldn't ask for a better weekend, the weather was absolutely incredible (with the exception of one little part which I'll explain later). Rough night Friday, only got around 4 hours of sleep. But nonetheless, the mountain was calling! So, we started off on Saturday at the trailhead around 9:45am, a little later start than we anticipated. We decided to do the Coleman-Deming route, even though the climbing notes from the Ranger station looked a little dicey. Last notes were posted on August 8th for the Coleman-Deming saying that the Bergschrund was going to collapse "within a couple of weeks". Nonetheless, we decided to give it a try. Be prepared for an onslaught of pictures!
An awesome walk in until you poke out of the forest at around 6,000 feet.
Creek crossing was flooded out due to the massive amounts of water flowing from Baker.
 
Alpine Meadows
Me with Mt. Baker in behind
 
Coleman Glacier melting out, around 6,000ft.
Baker Glistening
Looking Back from the Meadows
Got up to the head of the Coleman Glacier, had a bite to eat and took in the crisp air and views. No bugs here either! Bonus. What an awesome area. The glacier heading up to High Camp @ 7,000ft (and beyond) was heavily crevassed, so we decided to slap the gear on and rope up at this point.
     
Starting on the Coleman Glacier
Got up to high camp before 4:00pm on Saturday, and decided to set up camp a little west of the typical high camp spot. Vault toilets have been helicoptered into high camp.
The winds slamming my tent as we set up shop.
Looking back to Yellow Aster Butte area and beyond
View from my tent :) If only you could wake up to this every day.
Going over some crevasse rescue techniques at camp
After eating, taking in the views, and relaxing, it was time for sunset. What a beautiful sunset it was!! Pics:
         
We were planning on getting an early start since the sun was melting out the glacier pretty quick due to the intense heat. So, watch alarm set for 4:30am.. and off try to get some sleep. TRY. The wind was pounding my tent so hard overnight I think I only got two hours of sleep. But oh well!! Excitement filled the air in the morning. Slept in, woke up around 5:20am for sunrise.
Sunrise from Tent
Geared up, and off to summit! What a spectacular time. Nothing like waking up early in the morning to an incredible sunrise, crisp fresh air fed off the glacier, and amazing glacial formations to mesmorize you as you kickstep your way towards your goal. And that they were! Pics of our route to the Grant-Colfax saddle:
     
  
We had to switchback around this and cross to the left.
At the base of Colfax Peak
Got up on the saddle around 11:30am or so. This is where things got interesting. It was such an amazing day, epic weather .. not a cloud in sight. And then, as soon as we got up onto the saddle, the weather changed in a heartbeat. Literally.
Deming glacier seen from the saddle.
Taken seconds later
And then, within minutes ...
Whiteout conditions! Could barely see four feet in front of myself. Winds picked up fiercly, at least 60km/h+. We sat waiting for a bit but saw no break. One climber downclimbing from summit said that summitblock was clear, so we decided to give it a go. Of course, this was right at the base of the Roman Wall, so we did the entire wall in poor visibility. But, it was one of the neatest things that I've seen. Once we broke through the cloud cover, we were 3/4 of the way up the roman wall looking down onto the clouds. Something about being on a steep face looking down into the soft clouds and the void beyond that. I didn't get a pic of this one, unfortunately! Anyways, we were in the clear and getting close to the summit:
Above the Clouds
En Route to Summit
Almost There! 3 climbers already on summit.
Woo! What an incredible feeling. Thought I'd bring a little bit of Canada to the summit as well :) It was SO windy at the summit I could barely stand. That, with the dirt factor whipping in your face and the intense smell of sulfur made our summit visit relatively short. Summited just after noon. Enough for some pictures though:
     
Summit Log. Couldn't open it unfortunately because of the wind.
 
Alas, time to descend. Got some good pictures from the top of the Roman Wall looking down to Colfax Peak, Deming Glacier, etc.
   
Looking back up to the Roman Wall after the mini-storm had cleared way.
Peering back up at the Coleman Glacier after our descent. Felt good to get back on solid ground at this point. Two incredible days, for sure, nothing I will ever forget. Neat to see a lot of peaks from a different perspective as well - Robie Reed, Howay, Tomyhoi, all places that Baker can be seen from. Coming down on the glacier conditions were worsening in the afternoon due to the heat - boot skiing in some spots. Good times, good times. A long outing, over 2,000m elevation gain, not sure how many km in total.. feet really hurt today though!
Reality hits again -- but the weekend will come soon to offer that window of opportunity where you can escape from reality once again. Until next time! |
Edited by - Draezn on 08/23/2005 09:50 AM
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Vancouver, BC
Canada
1038 Posts |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 2:34 PM
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An epic adventure  . Amazing how quickly conditions can deteriorate.
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"Hope for the best; plan for the worst" |
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the road
557 Posts |
Posted - 08/22/2005 : 2:42 PM
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F*$#ING WICKED MAN!
that report is definitely an inspiration for me, Im planning to do the same route before the summer is out.
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Go contrarian |
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Coquitlam, BC
Canada
191 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 09:51 AM
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| Bheaps - Yeah, definitely an awesome route at this time of year. Hopefully that Bergschrund stays closed. I'd get there sooner than later, but looks like you'll have a good time! |
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 Terminator shade wearing, summit questing, double Grinding, Gordo voting self annointed 'dumb ass' and Aconcagua Bagga who dreams of Robson, Teton, The Judge, and.....and....
Port Moody, B.C
Canada
2211 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 09:59 AM
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| Nice job guys. Especially this late in the season. |
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Coquitlam, BC
Canada
174 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 10:06 AM
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awsome pictures. I'm hoping to get up there in september.
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"You will both be just humans, tied to the same rope, saving each others lives withought a word." |
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bandana wearin', pole huckin', view lovin', dog herdin', 4x4 navigatin', lake huntin', butt-slidin' bridge crosser, who enjoys postholing with an overnighter pack
Surrey, BC
Canada
4663 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 10:11 AM
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Congrats on getting there safely! Must be an amazing feeling being up there  . So if the climber coming back down wasn't there to tell you the summitblock was clear, would still have gone ahead?
Amazing pics too  |
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 | Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 10:23 AM
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| I was watching the lenticular cloud form and then rip apart from over on Rexford... thinking about how windy it must have been. |
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Peak bagging, bushwhacking, zamboni driving, snowshoeing, self portrait artist, and speed demon who loves to hang out on Mt. Seymour
4037 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 12:59 PM
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Very nice, descriptive and good photos. You have been getting up some impressive peaks lately, as have a lot of CT members. Let's hope this good weather goes through October at least so we can all get some more great hiking done.
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Hike Naked. Hang Out In The Backcountry. |
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Alberta-based choss climbin', flame throwin', rappel lovin', ass talkin' hater who doesn't like "Gumby" for a descriptor
6302 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 1:20 PM
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| N-I-C-E!! |
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Vancouver, BC
31 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 1:29 PM
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| I've been wondering for some time now, what kind of experience and gear does one need to do Baker? Anyone know of a good place for this info? |
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| Dru
Mountain Grammar Police
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Sardonic sandbagging scoundrel, Cascade Climbers lobotomized spraymeister, space blanket flyer, new millennium vulgarian betaboy and friend to all squids
Climbing, a mountain
Canada
∞ Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 1:36 PM
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| "Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 3" by Fred Beckey. |
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Happy go lucky, plaid wearin, postholin, safeway gaitor sportin, old-school film shootin, giver of many regards
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
13599 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 2:43 PM
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Amazing trip, great report. Your photos are truly awesome and inspiring.
Regards, |
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Telkwa
1176 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 9:18 PM
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| Cool sunsets! Great trip report. |
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Back busted, pumpkin carvin, toyota drivin, wacky hair canvas painter that likes a cold Beer on a subzero day
Abbotsford, B.C.
Canada
1078 Posts |
Posted - 08/23/2005 : 10:24 PM
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| The last time I did Baker was in late August after a long hot spell. Navigating the glacier was tricky but I think the scenery as a whole is much more dramatic when the crevasses and ice falls are all totally exposed. I experienced the same kind of wind you faced at the summit. We were all leaning into it with all our strength and as the wind let up for an instant we all fell over… |
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Trail blazin', backcountry bushwackin', pine huntin', photo takin', long winded story teller
3841 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2005 : 1:16 PM
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My goodness.  So that's what Baker looks like when you are up there. Wooow! Fantastic Pics, especially of the sunset. Great TR.
You guys are getting me itching to learn climbing in my old age. 
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Wildman |
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Calgary, AB
Canada
252 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2005 : 2:03 PM
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| Great report and pics! |
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Trail running, bike hucking, fast packing, beer drinking collector of pine cones on a day pass
AKA
Dances with Trees
Forest Gnome Cabin
Canada
13090 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2005 : 2:29 PM
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Terminator shade wearing, summit questing, double Grinding, Gordo voting self annointed 'dumb ass' and Aconcagua Bagga who dreams of Robson, Teton, The Judge, and.....and....
Port Moody, B.C
Canada
2211 Posts |
Posted - 08/24/2005 : 5:43 PM
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| I just noticed the Canada hat and you mentioning bringing a bit of Canada with you. When I went on Canada day last year it looked like an invasion. People were packing up flags and all sorts of items of Canadiana with them. I sort of felt guilty being on the other side of the border on our day but the show of red and white was amazing to say the least. That day the 49th dropped a little further south. |
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Langley, BC
Canada
1699 Posts |
Posted - 08/25/2005 : 07:57 AM
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Wow! Very cool!
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Chaos, Panic & Disorder----my work here is done. |
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Victoria, BC
Canada
348 Posts |
Posted - 08/25/2005 : 7:22 PM
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Holy christ potatoes that is one cool trip. Wicked pics man
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A smile is a curve to help straighten things. |
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Mt. Baker Summit - August 20/21
